Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2020 i Vogue

VERA WANG AND I FIRST MET in 1983. I was being interviewed to become Vogue’s Creative Director, and she was an editor at the magazine, having started in 1972 as an assistant to fashion editor Polly Mellen Polly was as renowned for her fierce discipline as she was for her breathily dramatic pronouncements on matters of style—including, legend has it, a brief soliloquy on how Vera presented herself for her first day on the job: in a white Yves Saint Laurent shirtdress, her long hair immaculately glossy and straight, nails painted scarlet red. Polly promptly sent her home to change, telling her, “We do a lot of work on our hands and knees here—not in Saint Laurent crepe de chine.” Vera came right back—in jeans, her hair tied back and…

There are many memorable moments in the video for “Even If It Hurts,” the lead single off Colombian-Canadian singer Tei Shi’s fall album, La Linda. But astute beauty observers likely took note about 45 seconds in, when Tei Shi, aka Valerie Teicher, appears onscreen in a volcanic high ponytail, her makeup completely natural save for a boldly overdrawn lip. “Sometimes I mess around with it,” the 30-year-old, who performed at Collina Strada’s spring show, says of L’Oréal lip liner in Truly Burgundy—a similar shade to the one she often stole from her mother as a child in the ’90s. This was no isolated incident. After years of being relegated to makeup-bag obsolescence, lip liner—that utilitarian barrier that can stop a beloved bullet of lipstick from going rogue—is back in the…

New York has lately been producing young designers who practice a distinctly DIY style of fashion—from patchworking salvaged denim and deadstock to rehabbing found garments into new silhouettes. Peter Do, one of the city’s most exciting new talents, is not one of those designers. Do, who was born in Vietnam and moved to suburban Philadelphia at 14, won the LVMH Graduate Prize upon completing his studies at FIT in 2014. Phoebe Philo’s Céline was his finishing school, followed by a stint at Derek Lam—and his self-titled debut for spring 2018 had all the confidence and finesse that those experiences taught him. Scrappy, upcycled vintage it wasn’t. “We’re old-school,” declares Do, who is now 29. “I was trained in tailoring—I like making pants and shirts and blazers.” The racks of the…

If the slate of recent performances with female actors taking on august male roles (Glenda Jackson as King Lear, Harriet Walter as Prospero, Cate Blanchett telling sad stories of the death of kings as Richard II) makes gender-bending Shakespeare seem like an of-the-moment trend, cast your mind back to 1899. That year, a 55-year-old Sarah Bernhardt, having aged out of Ophelia territory and not quite ready to take on Gertrude, decided to try her hand at Hamlet in Paris and London. This month Ruth Negga joins the ranks, relocating from London to St. Ann’s Warehouse in Brooklyn, where she will take on the role of the Danish prince in a revival of director Yaël Farber’s staging for the Gate Theatre in Dublin. “It’s not like it’s a new thing,” Negga…

The appetite for British period dramas is costing actors dearly. When I meet Anya Taylor-Joy and Johnny Flynn, the leads in Autumn de Wilde’s much-anticipated new adaptation of Emma, both are suffering the aftereffects of a morning spent in Regency costume. Taylor-Joy’s ribs are decompressing from the corset she wears to play Jane Austen’s wealthy, meddling antiheroine, while Flynn has gratefully removed the starched high collar that he says gave him a “weird sort of ear chafe” while dressed for the part of her childhood confidant Mr. Knightley. “Your little ears!” chimes Taylor-Joy sympathetically, nibbling on the corner of a strawberry Haribo that Flynn has fished out of his coat pocket. The three of us are seated in the chilly attic of a Regencyera manor in suburban West London (Austen…

IT OCCURRED TO ME RECENTLY THAT climate-change forecasts of record high temperatures and drastic sea-level rises seem to be prompting an interesting sartorial phenomenon: Survivalist wardrobe staples are trending. Gore-Tex and hiking boots keep getting traction on the runways, and a recent capsule collection of “modern everyday essentials” from Prada included a reusable water bottle—and a compass, perfect for city folk who like to camp in their cubicles. More accessible to me is a faded green nylon coat from the Japanese brand Final Home, which hangs in my boyfriend’s closet. When it gets cold, you can stuff the lining with newspaper for warmth. These are clothes for the end of the world. But what to do with one’s hair during this slow-motion collapse of our biosphere? It seems fitting that,…

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello boot, $1,695 If Yves Saint Laurent gave us Le Smoking, Anthony Vaccarello chopped its trousers into micro-shorts and slipped on a pair of twangy cowboy boots for a look that could be dubbed Le Smoking à l’Américaine. The kicker is really the shoe: a buttery, cognac-colored leather with a bluntly pointed toe and scrolly topstitching—topped off by detailing on the scallop (the V-like dip just below the knee) that conjures up the country-western. Whether your natural terrain is the range or the runway, these are boots meant for walking the walk.…

For better or worse, 2020 may be the year of the reboot, with Gossip Girl and Party of Five renditions in the works—and you could be forgiven for suspecting that Hulu’s High Fidelity would fall somewhere along the worse end of the spectrum. The John Cusack–starring 2000 film adaptation of Nick Hornby’s novel is justly beloved and may have ignited the era of deadpan, fourth wall–breaking asides. But the Zoë Kravitz–led version that premieres this month on Hulu stakes new territory, with Kravitz stepping into Cusack’s well-worn shoes as Rob, a record-store owner reeling from a massive breakup. Other relevant details are preserved: Rob’s musical taste still veers wildly, from Ann Peebles to Fleetwood Mac; she still works her way through her list of romantic entanglements to attempt to diagnose…

Teddy Wayne’s noir bromance Apartment (Bloomsbury) is set in 1996, back when successful authors enjoyed godlike status, and the young men who dreamed of joining the pantheon had no social-media platforms where they could act out their fantasies. The unnamed protagonist of this novel is surrounded by self-regarding professors and students who find no favor with his workshop submissions. The one exception is Billy, a charismatic Midwesterner who sees promise in his classmate’s pages. Billy sleeps in the basement of the dive bar where he works—until the narrator extends an invitation to live with him in exchange for cleaning and companionship. What follows is an amusing, increasingly uneasy account of an odd couple and their unstable power dynamic as Billy’s star rises and his host, whose heart is “clamped shut…

“What drives Chicago is still a mystery to me,” says Duro Olowu, speaking by phone from the city’s Museum of Contemporary Art, where lately he’s been pondering such matters as he puts the final touches on the expansive new art exhibition he’s curated, Duro Olowu: Seeing Chicago, opening February 29. It all began one fall morning during Frieze London, when MCA director Madeleine Grynsztejn asked the Nigerian-born British designer if he’d like to collaborate on a show. Olowu balked at the suggestion of a fashion retrospective—“It’s the reality of being driven by the possibilities of the future, not the things you’ve done in the past,” he says—but then Grynsztejn made him an offer he couldn’t refuse: the whole of the main museum space to work in, and carte blanche to…

It’s really hard to have any perspective on it,” says Lucy Moss, the creator, along with Toby Marlow, of SIX, the wildly entertaining production transferring to Broadway next month. “It was beyond anything we had ever dreamed.” It’s a typically damp, dull fall day in London, and the three of us have met for breakfast at The Delaunay in Covent Garden, white linen tablecloths bringing crisp cheer to the gloom. Moss and Marlow have been out over the weekend, celebrating his 25th birthday. They have a day of meetings ahead of them, but neither the partying nor the bureaucratic matters at hand have dimmed their broad and endearing enthusiasm. Both are dressed like the undergraduates they so recently were—albeit ones with a very particular sense of style. Marlow is wearing…

Cover look: 22: Blazer ($2,200), vest ($895), and scarf (price upon request); marcjacobs.com. Hat, price upon request; marcjacobs.com. 18K-gold necklace with citrine, malachite, and diamonds, $107,000; vancleefarpels.com. Manicurist, Megumi Yamamoto and Emi Kudo, using Chanel Le Vernis. Tailor, Christy Rilling Studio and Susie’s Custom Designs. V Life: 52: Sweater, $1,290; modaoperandi.com. 60: Blazer; peterdo.net. Sandals, $390; Marni stores. Tailor, Nafisa Tosh. THE MARVELOUS MS. PUGH 75: Jacket, vest, polo shirt, and brooch, priced upon request; select Louis Vuitton stores. Pants, $1,095; Brunello Cucinelli, NYC. 76–77: Blazer ($1,900), vest ($850), and blouse ($650); marcjacobs.com. Hat, price upon request; marcjacobs.com. 18K-gold necklace with citrine, malachite, and diamonds, $107,000; vancleefarpels.com. 78: Top and skirt, priced upon request; erdem.com. 79: Vest, $950; celine.com. Blouse, $1,250; similar styles at celine.com. 80–81: Blazer, $2,545; select Dolce…

For a product that’s here today and gone tomorrow, flowers take a hefty environmental toll: the water used to bring the seeds to life, the energy required to pump the greenhouse full of heat, the fuel consumed by shipping. Only around 20 percent of the stems sold in the U.S. are grown domestically, with the remaining blooms imported from Colombia, Europe, and elsewhere. All this transpires before your bouquet is swaddled in nonrecyclable cellophane at the corner bodega. According to landscape architects Henrietta Courtauld and Bridget Elworthy (aka the Land Gardeners), that’s just the beginning of the industry’s woeful practices. “If you are given a bunch of sweet peas,” says Elworthy, “the first thing you would do is plunge your nose in to give them a jolly good smell. But…

“Everyone likes a little bit of bling,” confirms Shari Auth as she presses a tiny Swarovski crystal–topped metal ball onto my ear on a recent morning at WTHN, her Manhattan acupuncture studio. The flashy stud just above my lobe resembles a new piercing and, it turns out, may also help ease my midday migraines. Called an ear seed, each pin-size, self-adhesive pellet stimulates pressure points, which can target everything from digestion to libido, explains Auth, a licensed acupuncturist and board-certified herbalist. “They don’t puncture the skin, so they’re safe for people to go home with,” Yinova Center founder Jill Blakeway adds of the functional accessories that she uses on clients such as Uma Thurman. They also happen to be trending and are now stocked at retailers as varied as Neiman…

The passageway is narrow, crowded, and, when Senator Elizabeth Warren comes into view, suddenly crazed. “’Liz! ’Beth! Warren!” supporters chant. A phalanx of cameras has begun to move a few paces ahead of her as she shakes hands, cradles babies, and gives a supporter a hug. It is the middle of November, and she’s here on the second floor of the statehouse in Concord, New Hampshire, to register her candidacy for the office of president. Outside, a bone-chilling 17-degree wind is blowing hard; frost dusts the lawn, but a few green leaves wave on a maple, like reminders of a warmer time. At the foot of the hallway, Warren embraces New Hampshire state representative Ed Butler, an endorser. “Thank you, thank you, thank you,” he murmurs in her ear as…