Delicious UK September 2023

Bienvenue! As you’ll have spotted, this issue has a French theme – an idea spawned months ago when we were discussing dishes we love. Many featured cheese and cream, their appeal heightened by the unseasonably cold summer (bah!), and many were French. Then I went to an event where chef-presenter Andi Oliver discussed, among other things, how French cookery came to dominate world cuisine. The topic is complex, I thought, and where there’s complexity there’s fascination; therefore it warrants delving into over more pages than just a few. So here you have it: a magazine overflowing with joie de vivre. Meet five chefs (p37) influenced by French food in different ways – with stunning recipes as a result. On p88 historian Annie Gray gives insight into the rise of French…

KEEP IT CLASSIQUE Red wine-braised short ribs and beans (p74) Gratin dauphinois (p64) Kouign amann (p84) French cooking has influenced cuisines the world over, so getting a few traditional recipes in your repertoire will instantly upgrade your back catalogue of culinary stonkers. The classic beef in red wine has the acidity to take on the rich creamy potatoes, then follow it up with a buttery, laminated bake. This hearty menu feeds a crowd of 6-8. NEW NOUVELLE CUISINE Saint Agur gougères (p61) Butternut squash tarte tatin (p107) Chai crème brûlée (p57) The classics are great, but the odd twist or adaptation can produce something even better. Gougères are given a punchy update with a tangy blue cheese sauce; tarte tatin turns savoury and the never-goes-out-of-fashion crème brûlée gets infused with…

Breton galettes with beetroot and brie Serves 4 Hands-on time 20 min Oven time 5 min Whisk 75g buckwheat flour in a bowl with 1 medium free-range egg, 230ml whole milk and a pinch of salt and pepper to make a smooth batter. Heat a splash of vegetable oil in a non-stick frying pan over a low-medium heat, then add a ladleful of the batter and cook for 3 minutes until the pancake is golden underneath. Flip and cook for another 2-3 minutes until golden on the other side, then put on a plate and keep warm. Repeat with the remaining batter to make 4 galettes. Cut 3 cooked beetroot (not in vinegar) and 200g brie into thin slices, trimming the rind from the brie if you prefer. Put all…

WHERE ENGLAND AND FRANCE MEET The Channel Island of Guernsey will host a celebration of all things French from 10 to 15 October. An exhibition will commemorate the 140th anniversary of artist Renoir’s visit, including works created during his stay. See the views that inspired his paintings on the self-guided Renoir Walk at Moulin Huet Bay (pictured) – where the Renoir Garden Café serves popular crab sarnies – or explore Victor Hugo’s house, where he wrote Les Misérables. There’ll be French menus at island restaurants, while a special food market will offer French cheeses, ciders and meats. visitguernsey.com RETURN OF THE NATIVE Native oyster season is here – and it’s a good time to enjoy UK crab and the last of summer’s native lobsters. Witness the Scottish Oyster Shucking Championship…

thecrownatpantygelli.com PUBBY CREDS This whitewashed local favourite is near Abergavenny, whose famous food festival is 16-17 Sep this year. Farmers prop up the flagstone-floored bar and regulars tuck in at mis-matched tables. New owners Amy and Nick have zhuzhed up the menu. THE BOOZE Choose from 11 brews on tap, including a Welsh guest beer and Apple County Cider, made up the road. Penderyn Distillery spirits round out the local line-up, and the wine list brims with affordable Old and New World finds. THE FOOD The head chef is Italian, so alongside pub classics (the steak and ale pie, £14, is great), expect seasonal risottos and Med-style starters such as braised baby octopus, tomatoes and capers on homemade friselle bread (£9). THE WALK Sugar Loaf Mountain is on the doorstep,…

35% rated themselves as a ‘very good’ or ‘excellent’ cook – but more than a quarter can’t boil an egg and 55% have never baked a victoria sponge. Health is the greatest motivation for cooking at home – followed by exploring new recipes and flavours. A third find it helps them budget. Over a third think the term ‘dinner party’ is old hat. One in 10 serve charcuterie or mezzestyle food to share. A third ‘sometimes’ bother with a plated starter. 32% couldn’t live without their microwave. The second most popular gadget was the air fryer (12%) followed by slow cookers and coffee machines. Nearly half often let pans boil over, 38% have burnt something so badly the fire alarm went off and over a quarter have used too much…