Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2017 i Delicious UK

10 OUTSTANDING RECIPES TO PULL OUT AND KEEP Mozzarella and pesto toasties MAKES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 5 MIN MAKE AHEAD The pesto is best fresh but can be made up to 72 hours in advance. Make sure it’s covered by a thin layer of olive oil and keep in a sealed container in the fridge. Use leftovers for pasta or with meat/fish. • 50g butter, softened • 8 crusty white bread slices • 125g ball mozzarella, sliced • 125g hard (cooking) mozzarella, grated • 10 parma ham slices • Sunflower oil for frying • 2 medium free-range eggs • 1 tbsp milk FOR THE PESTO • Large bunch fresh basil leaves • 30g toasted pine nuts • 50g parmesan, cut into small pieces • 3 glugs…

I’m feeling the love – the love for autumn, that is. Favourite time of year, no contest. Part of that sense of joy is sartorial due to a long affinity with boots (furry), scarves (soft, bright) and tights (woolly), but mostly the glow comes from an appreciation of cosiness – and I don’t mean anything to do with the H-word (hygge, the warm glow of a Danish concept that no one in this country had heard of before 2016 but which was hijacked to the point of obsession last winter). This issue sees a return to more comforting food, brightly coloured veg and scones by the fire – talking of which, Debbie Major has taken on the mantle of our Hall of Fame feature, starting with the best cheese scones…

SUBJECT: Can’t do without delicious.! FROM: Diana Nicholson I’ve been a subscriber for years but now, at 70+ and living on my own, do I really need this extravagance? The answer is a resounding YES. Each time I consider cancelling my subscription, another inviting issue drops through my letterbox and, once again, I start planning recipes to cook for family and friends – and find new ideas for meals just for me. I’m not yet ready to enter the Cook the Cover competition, but perhaps one day. Kay Plunkett-Hogge’s tirade against faddy trends prompted you to suggest some more culprits... FROM: Blair Southerden My bugbear with trends is the number of restaurants offering only tasting menus – multiple courses of, at best, two mouthfuls each. I want to be fed…

8 OCTOBER Wells Food Festival, Somerset More than 150 producers will line the streets of England’s smallest city, with stalls winding round the moat of The Bishop’s Palace. There will be medieval dishes to try in the cathedral, guided cider tastings, plus an introduction to fermenting. Free; wellsfoodfestival.co.uk 14 OCTOBER Edinburgh Coffee Festival, Scotland Sip on speciality blends and pick up some cool brewing kit, or get clued up with a half-day ‘introduction to coffee’ course, covering the science of roasting and key barista skills. Charity partner Mercy Corps works to ensure sustainable livelihoods for coffee farmers, and the event aims to be zero waste, too. Three cheers for that. Tickets £10; edinburghcoffee festival.co.uk 20-22 OCTOBER The Great Nordic Feast, London’s Southbank Centre Chefs from countries including Norway, Denmark and…

“These pages are about us doing the hard work so you don’t have to. We’re sent anything from 40 to 100 new products a month, and we really do try them all: tasting, smelling the aromas, testing gadgets. Only if they’re useful, good-looking and value for money do they get the delicious. seal of approval.” KAREN BARNES, EDITOR Art in a vase The abstract look is appealing and the wide shape of this vase is an effective way to show off an armful of frothy greenery. The price? On the high side because this is handmade and it’s weighty. It’s also gorgeous. Yarn vase, £150 (P&P free on orders over £15) lsa-international. THIS MONTH I’M DRINKINGÉ Conker Cold Brew. Or, rather, I’m warming it gently and pouring it over a…

THE JOY OF OLD FRIENDS I have a confession to make: I don’t like staying in people’s homes and I don’t like having people stay at mine. Don’t get me wrong: being invited to dinner or drinks is a wonderful thing. But at the end of it, I just want to go home. And I want my guests to go home, too. My father used to have a brass bell in his living room that he’d ring when he’d had enough, saying: “I invited you to dinner, not to breakfast…” (He knew me well, as he bequeathed it to me.) I would make an exception for old friends from abroad – if it weren’t for the fact that our flat has just one bathroom. The solution I’ve found? Go on…

Bay and garlic studded hasselbacks with taleggio SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR FOOD TEAM’S TIP Taleggio is an Italian cheese that melts well but isn’t suitable for vegetarians. Substitute another cheese that melts well, such as cheddar. • 4 baking potatoes • 35g melted butter • 8-12 small fresh bay leaves • 2 fat garlic cloves, finely sliced • 200g taleggio cheese, cut into slices (see tip) • 4 vine tomatoes, sliced • ½ red onion, finely sliced • Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling • Handful fresh flatleaf parsley, chopped YOU’LL ALSO NEED… • A metal or wooden skewer 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Pierce the bottom of each potato lengthways with a skewer, roughly 1cm from the base (this will…

T Soanes & Son free-range whole chicken, North East T Soanes & Son have been in the poultry business for more than 70 years. Their chickens, raised on carefully selected farms, are grown as slowly as possible and fed on locally milled wheat – and whatever grubs and bugs the birds can find in their Yorkshire Wolds pasture. Many of the team, led by GM Nigel Upson, have been working with the Soanes family for decades and are dedicated to safeguarding the animals and the environment; they use biomass boilers, three wind turbines, solar panels and a heat recovery unit. Outside the farm, the Soanes are committed to their surrounding community, using many goods, services and labour within a 30-mile radius of their farm. Buy from stockists in the North…

These two regions dominated the awards table, sharing the winnings across the Sea and Earth categories, with the South West scooping the From the Field artisan category and London and the South East winning the From the Dairy artisan and Editor’s Choice categories. Both regions put forward a wide range of excellent produce that showcased what’s possible from this long strip of land: from sparkling English rosé from Davenport Vineyards in Kent, to gin by Gloucestershire newcomers Sibling. Ice cream from both regions also impressed the judges including Orange Elephant Ice Cream’s highly commended elderflower and lime yogurt ice cream made in Devon, and Jude’s Ice Cream from Winchester with its salted caramel and chocolate and sea salt ice creams. For yet another year, the delicious. Produce Awards have brought…

RECIPE: NIGELLA LAWSON. FOOD STYLING: HETTIE POTTER. STYLING: SANJANA LOVEKIN “The food I have always loved cooking doesn’t require technique, dexterity or expertise, none of which I lay claim to. Life is complicated; cooking doesn’t have to be. It doesn’t matter how many cookery books I write or how many times I am erroneously called a chef, I will never be a professional. But then, no one needs qualifications to cook, or human beings would have fallen out of the evolutionary loop a long time ago. I cook, as you do, to feed myself, my family, my friends.” READER OFFER This recipe is from At My Table by Nigella Lawson (£26; Chatto & Windus). To order it for the special price of £20.80 including UK P&P, please call 01206 255…

GRAB A BARGAIN • The Takeout Sangiovese 2015, Rubicone, Italy (£4.95, Sainsbury’s) A cherry-tinged red from central Italy. Soft enough for tomato-based pasta sauces and makes a decent party red. • Finest Côtes de Gascogne Blanc 2016, France (£6.50, Tesco) Simple but appealing, with a floral whiff and lemon crispness. Light at just 11 per cent alcohol. Add a dash of crème de cassis to make a kir. • Extra Special Barbera d’Asti 2015, Piedmont, Italy (£5.48, Asda) Keenly priced and with tangy raspberry and redcurrant fruit. Its fresh bite suits cured ham and salami. FRIDAY SPECIAL • Taste the Difference Pic St Loup 2015, France (£8, Sainsbury’s) A hearty red with a peppery twist and plenty of forest fruit. Bang-on for casseroles, especially lamb and venison. • Viña Albali…

MEET THE CAKE TEAM Yotam Ottolenghi is a food writer, broadcaster, restaurateur and all-round culinary creative powerhouse, renowned as one of the most influential chefs in the UK. His cookery books have sold more than 3 million copies and he owns the popular Ottolenghi delis and Nopi restaurant in London. Helen Goh is a talented chef and pastry chef, who works with Ottolenghi to develop outstanding new recipes and products. “There’s nothing to raise the spirits like a perfectly light sponge flavoured with spices and citrus, or a megacrumbly, icing-sugar-dusted cookie straight out of the oven. What these recipes share is that they were conceived with love and a bit of flair; they’re made with real ingredients and lots of attention to detail. The Ottolenghi way has always been about…

ADAPTED FROM A RECIPE BY MEGAN CAMERON-LEE. PHOTOGRAPH: MARK O’ MEARA Chilli-lime chicken lettuce cups SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Keep leftover lettuce cups and dipping sauce in separate sealed containers in the fridge for up to 24 hours. • 10ml lime juice • ½ mild red chilli, deseeded, finely chopped • 170g skinless chicken breast, cut into thin strips • ½ tbsp soy sauce or tamari • Cooking oil spray • 80g flat rice noodles • ½ large cos lettuce, leaves separated • ¼ carrot (20g), coarsely grated or shredded with a julienne peeler • 20g pea shoots 1 In a small bowl, mix the lime juice and chilli. Put the chicken strips into a medium non-reactive (glass or stainless steel) bowl and pour over…

RECIPE: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: LAURA EDWARDS. STYLING: WEI TANG The new fish and chips SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN NEXT TIME Add broccoli florets to the wedges for the last 15 minutes of baking (step 3) to get an extra portion of veg. • 3 sweet potatoes, unpeeled (about 500g), sliced into thin wedges • 400g parsnips, unpeeled, sliced into thin wedges • Olive oil for roasting • 50g fresh breadcrumbs • 30g parmesan, grated • 4 tbsp red pesto • ½ bunch basil, leaves chopped • 4 x 150g sustainable cod loin fillets • 3 tbsp mayonnaise • Steamed peas to serve (optional) 1 Heat the oven to 200ºC/180ºC fan/ gas 6. Put the sweet potatoes and parsnips in a large roasting tray, drizzle…

“These recipes are vegetable-based because I think this is the area where all of us have the most room for change. I’ve taken out those useful props that vegetarians, including myself when I was vegetarian for a while, rely on: the eggs, the cheese, the cream – they’re useful, but I wanted to focus on making vegetables delicious using good cooking techniques and just other vegetables, fruits and spices. The way we’ve been eating vegetables, particularly in this country, is absurd… Thank goodness people like Yotam Ottolenghi and others have shown us that vegetables can be sublime. There’s such an extraordinary range of tastes, textures and ingredients to play with – they’re much more varied and exciting than the world of meat and fish, fantastic as those ingredients are. Once…

No. 46 See how much you really know about the world of food with Hugh Thompson’s culinary conundrum. Answers next month ACROSS 1 Naan, pitta, chapati, piadina, tortilla, roti are all types of this (9) 6 Bakery famous for its high wheatgerm loaf and 1970s advertising (5) 7 Silvery, elongated South African fish – eaten in UK during WWII (5) 9 Cutlery item popular in Medieval Italy, thought unmanly in Britain (4) 10 Part of a chicken, good for stuffing (6) 12 Old-fashioned word for grind/chop into pieces; dry pet food (6) 14 Jamaican fruit: cross between a grapefruit, orange and tangerine (4) 17 Term for potassium nitrate or saltpetre, used to cure meat (5) 18 Soft French cheese often made in a spiral with herbs and garlic (5) 19…

GET TO KNOW YOUR CHEESES FRESH Any soft, spreadable cheese, made by gently separating the curds from the whey. Fresh cheeses have bright, milky flavours, often with lemony acidity. Some are moussey or creamy, whereas mozzarella is heated and stirred to form strands, and feta is pickled in brine. How to use it Dot into salads to add creamy contrast to everything from roasted veg to tomato and herb sauces. AGED FRESH These cheeses are matured to develop flavour and texture. These include Loire-style chèvres (goat’s cheeses) and British and Irish cheeses such as tymsboro and st tola. Moulds form a thin, often wrinkly rind, beneath which the soft interior turns creamy. How to use it Serve as a fresh cheese or grill in slices. SOFT WHITE Camembert and brie…

COMFORT: FOOD TO SOOTHE THE SOUL The fourth cookbook from John Whaite, Bake Off winner, cookery teacher and broadcaster, is based on a concept near to everyone’s heart come autumn: comfort food. With chapters centred on such feel-good properties as cheesy, crunchy and spicy, the recipes are sure to hit the spot. £19.99, Kyle Books WINE LOVER’S KITCHEN Author Fiona Beckett is both a wine writer and a food writer – ideal occupations for this book. She writes mouthwatering recipes too, from classics (coq au vin) to recipes with inspired boozy twists (tiramisu with PX sherry). Her 10 rules for cooking with wine are a must-read. £16.99, Ryland Peters & Small (out 10 Oct) ORANGE BLOSSOM & HONEY Regional Moroccan home cooking is the name of the game in the…

1 SWEET & SHARP Pomegranate molasses is a test kitchen favourite, so when a jar of cherry molasses landed the lid was off within 30 seconds. It’s sharp enough to make your mouth pucker, yet has sweetness, too. Try as a glaze for poultry. It’s a little runny and slightly pricey (but worth it, I’d say). £8.95, arabica foodandspice.com 2 GONE IN A FLASH Digestives are part of the British psyche – tea isn’t the same without them. Some would say they shouldn’t be messed with, but keep an open mind because McVitie’s has launched white chocolate digestive Nibbles. Let’s just say restraint is needed. £1.99 for 120g from stores nationwide 3 CHEESE DISCOVERY Odysea is a range of Greek food known for its quality. New in the shops is…

THE COOKERY SCHOOL WHERE Cake Boy, Battersea, London (cake-boy.com/school) THE COURSE Afternoon Tea, £250 for a full-day course (includes lunch with wine and bakes to take home) TESTED BY Phoebe Stone RECIPE: ERIC LANLARD. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: ELLA TARN. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON WHAT IT’S LIKE Eric Lanlard’s Cake Boy, a patisserie and cookery school, is a day-glo paradise at the foot of newly built blocks of flats south of the River Thames in Battersea. On arrival I was greeted by a smiling staff member who invited me and my fellow wannabe pâtissiers to tuck into a hot drink and a warm pastry. The day was young but it was already showing promise. In the café lounge, fuchsia pink and mandarin orange leather chairs are offset by black…

WHAT TO LOOK FOR ... • The skin should be unblemished and a good pumpkin should feel heavy for its size. If the flesh near the stem or on the underside gives at all when you press it, it’s probably past its best. Smaller pumpkins offer more bang for your buck in terms of flavour (and have fewer large seeds). Look out for (below, from left) green-skinned kabocha, the classic elongated butternut squash, dinky carnival, bright orange onion squash, knobbly queensland blue and hefty crown prince (the orange ones are the stars of Halloween). Masala roast chicken with beer gravy and crispy onions SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 15 MIN, PLUS RESTING • 1.8kg British free-range chicken • 1 medium pumpkin or carnival squash (about…

There’s a commitment that underpins everything delicious. does: a respect for food and the way it’s produced. We live in times where so much food is mucked about with, to the point where nourishment and how something tastes appear to be the least important aspects. Swathes of people in the UK don’t know where their food comes from – not to mention how to prepare or cook it. But there is still joy to be found if you look hard. A beautifully made ice cream, a well aged steak from a grass-fed cow, a soft-boiled free-range egg with a vibrant yellow yolk, jam made like granny used to, from seasonal berries – these are simple pleasures to shout about, wonder over and celebrate. Yet a great deal of hard work…

Wross Lawrence wild sea purslane, London and South East Former fisherman and tree surgeon turned forager Wross sources wild sea purslane from the marshy banks of an English Channel estuary in East Sussex. He works with organic fruit and veg suppliers Abel & Cole, picking the sea vegetable in small batches by hand to ensure a sustainable harvest. The greyish-green, plump purslane leaves grow year-round and taste of the salty water they grow next to. They’re packed with vitamins and minerals and it’s best to eat them raw – they’re a natural partner to fish and seafood. Andi Oliver couldn’t get enough of these salty punchy leaves at the final tasting in July. Available by mail order from Abel & Cole, abelandcole.co.uk WHAT THE JUDGES SAID ABOUT THE SEA PURSLANE “Good…

The customer is at the heart of everything Fisher & Paykel – this year’s delicious. Produce Awards sponsor – creates. By observing how people store their food, what they cook and how they get the best out of their dishwasher, the company’s experts understand your needs and have designed their kitchen products accordingly. They introduced a bigger oven to give you more room to cook a large meal, and added a Roast function so you can cook meat to perfection. The induction hob has precise and efficient Touch&Slide functions, and, when you need more space, SmartZone allows you to convert the four cooking zones into two larger ones. The ActiveSmart Foodcare system was created to ensure the temperature of your fridge stays at an optimum level to keep your food…

PHOTOGRAPH: LAURA EDWARDS. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: WEI TANG Masala malabar prawns SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN MAKE AHEAD Marinate the prawns up to 24 hours ahead (step 1). Keep covered in the fridge. ROHIT’S TIPS Measure your spices carefully to control the level of heat. If you add too much chilli you’ll lose the delicate flavour of the prawns. In the restaurant we use black tiger prawns – they can be pricey, but they’re worth seeking out if you want to make this dish for a special occasion. If you prefer a gentler heat, use a mild chilli powder, only add 1 tsp (step 1) and serve the curry with a dollop of cooling natural yogurt. FOOD TEAM’S TIP • 700g shell-on sustainable king prawns (see tips),…

* SEE P153 FOR TS&CS. OFFER VALID UNTIL 6 NOVEMBER 2017 THE delicious. RANGE AT LAKELAND 15% OFF To enjoy 15 per cent off the price of the new delicious. range at Lakeland stores, cut out this coupon and use it at the till * OR BUY ONLINE AND RECEIVE 15% OFF OUR NEW RANGE Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/deliciouslakeland…

I grew up with things growing around me. Our house had a garden and there were two cherry trees, a walnut tree and a row of mulberry trees in the street outside. We also had a dacha (second home in the country) with a bigger plot, and an even bigger garden at my grandmother’s. I remember gooseberry, blackcurrant and raspberry bushes taller than me (I was only little, mind). So when I found out it was possible to have an allotment, a plot of your own in London, and that it was cheap to rent, I felt elated. “I can grow tiny prickly cucumbers,” I thought. I immediately applied and got a letter saying I should think again as the waiting list is up to 10 years. My heart sank,…

PHOTOGRAPHS: LIZZIE MAYSON, ISTOCK. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. STYLING: TABITHA HAWKINS “If I have a food philosophy, it is simply that food is meant to make you happy. If it becomes stressful or if you get too anxious about getting it right, that’s no good. Make things that you enjoy cooking and eating. This is one of my favourite recipes – it never, ever fails. It’s basically pastry on the outside, with an almondy, creamy filling and sliced apple halves shoved into it. However badly you make it, it still tastes wonderful.” PRUE LEITH Normandy apple tart SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 15 MIN MAKE AHEAD The finished tart will keep at room temperature for 24 hours, covered. Freeze the finished tart, well wrapped in…

ADAPTED FROM A RECIPE BY SARAH SWAIN. PHOTOGRAPH: DEVIN HART Chorizo and lentil soup SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make 2-3 days ahead. Cover and chill, then reheat until piping hot to serve. Or freeze in batches (without the parsley and cream) in a sealed container for up to 6 months. MAKE IT VEGGIE Omit the chorizo and use vegetable stock instead of chicken stock, adding an extra 1 tsp smoked paprika to boost the smoky flavour. • Olive oil for frying • 200g cooking chorizo, chopped • 1 red onion, finely chopped • 3 carrots, finely chopped • 2 red peppers, finely chopped • 150g red lentils, rinsed • 1 tsp smoked paprika • 1 litre chicken stock, hot • 400g tin…

While the delicious. team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do things as well as answering cooking questions that arise in the test kitchen. What’s with all the different olive oils and which one should I be cooking with? How do I stop my fruit from discolouring when baking a pie? What do I do with leftover horseradish? It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will help take your cooking to the next level. MAKE THE BOUNTY LAST PHEASANT When young and tender, pheasant can be roasted like chicken and served with a rich, unctuous sauce. Older, tougher birds have more flavour but will need longer, slower cooking. FREEZE Once plucked, pheasant freeze well whole or jointed. If you’re getting your…

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK Picture the perfect croissant. Is it (A) golden, flaky and buttery? Or (B) average tasting but rainbow coloured? I’d hope you’d say it’s A. But for an increasing number of social media influencers, it’s B. The novelty foods trend is growing fast. If you use Instagram, Facebook or Pinterest, you’ve probably seen these Emperor’s New Foods (ENFs) – think rainbow croissants, unicorn iced coffees and monstrous freakshakes. What do they have in common? They’re all style-over-substance fads and they bug the hell out of me. Remember when coffee was brown? Now lattes are made from charcoal, dragon fruit and matcha – in attention-grabbing shades of black, pink and green. Mashed avocado on toast, so recently the darling of social media, no longer cuts the mustard. Now you have…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON The 15-minute brunch Fried mushrooms, crispy bacon and egg on sourdough toast SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN Turn the grill to high, cook 3 rashers of smoked streaky bacon for 5 minutes or until almost cooked, then turn over. Put a thick slice of sourdough next to the bacon and toast each side to your liking. Meanwhile, heat a knob of butter and a splash of olive oil in a large frying pan. Add a handful of sliced mixed wild mushrooms and 2 fresh thyme sprigs, then fry on a high heat for 5 minutes, turning occasionally. For the last minute, stir in a handful of baby leaf spinach. Push the mushroom mix to one side,…

RECIPES THAT WORK Every recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, using state-of-the-art Fisher & Paykel ovens and hobs, so you can be confident they work every time. INGREDIENTS We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell you where to find any unusual ingredients and/or what to substitute them with. We use higher-welfare meat for testing, supplied by The Ginger Pig (thegingerpig.co.uk). This symbol next to an ingredient means there are more ideas for using it on our Loose Ends page. HONEST COOKING TIMES Unlike many magazines, our timings include prep such as chopping. Hands-on time is when you’re chopping, stirring or frying. Oven/simmering time is when you can leave the dish in the oven or on the hob. V Indicates a vegetarian recipe. Vg Indicates a vegan…

1810 On 12 October Munich celebrated its first Oktoberfest, with horse races to commemorate the crown prince of Bavaria’s wedding. It’s now a two-week festival, and last year 12 million pints of beer were drunk. 1863 On 3 October, during the American Civil War, President Abraham Lincoln issued a proclamation inviting Americans to observe a Thanksgiving Day every year in November. 1917 Salvation Army volunteer Helen Purviance made her first doughnuts on 19 October to bring comfort to American troops fighting on the frontline in World War I. Her unit fried up to 9,000 a day. 1975 The Heimlich manoeuvre was endorsed by the American Medical Association on 27 October. Its inventor, thoracic surgeon Dr Henry Heimlich, last used the method (aged 96!) to save a friend’s life. 1979 The…

INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER. PHOTOGRAPHS: MATT AUSTIN, ISTOCK YOUNG APPETITE I grew up with food typical of 1960s and 1970s England. I remember being excited by fish fingers and Findus Crispy Pancakes, but there was also mum’s shepherd’s pie – I used to love turning the handle of the mincer. COUNTRY LIFE The step change for my family was when we moved from London to a little village in Gloucestershire. My dad got into growing veg and I helped my mum with her dinner parties, making jellied tomato rings from Katie Stewart’s classic The Times Cookery Book (Macmillan; 1974). STUDENT DAYS At university we used to have dinner parties on student budgets – there was a lot of tuna and broccoli bake. I used to get smoked haddock from the fishmonger…

The new delicious. online shop was created to give small and artisanal producers the route to market many of them need – and to give our readers the chance to buy their excellent products. As well as exceptional food items you’ll also find plenty of beautiful homewares. Here are our top picks for October. FIND THESE ITEMS AND LOTS MORE… Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/shop NOTE Delivery charges vary. See product information on each item for details. Where items are chilled, delivery prices are higher to cover the cost of fast delivery and keep-cold packaging, but our producers are doing everything they can to keep P&P to a minimum. GOOD LOAF Richard Bertinet’s sourdough is as good as it gets (it won a top gong in our Produce Awards last year). I’d suggest…

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so tasters don’t know who produced each product. And to prevent one tester influencing another, the panel aren’t allowed to confer, so the results are unbiased. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR The robust flavour of English breakfast tea has been enjoyed since the 1800s. Traditionally a blend of teas from Assam, Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and Kenya, the brew should be fullbodied and refreshing, with a light floral note. TASTE TEST WORDS: PHOEBE STONE SUPERMARKET WINNER Marks & Spencer English breakfast tea bags, £1.75 for 50 The most full-bodied, with a rich, malty flavour and invigorating quality. JOINT SUPERMARKET RUNNER-UP Asda English breakfast classic black tea bags, £1 for 50 Powerful and flavoursome tea that tasted bright and…

This month chefs all over the British Isles are sweating over more than their onions. This is the time of year when the Michelin Guide announces which restaurants in the UK and Ireland have gained, retained or lost their coveted stars. For many, this is a very big deal. Losing both stars from his New York restaurant in 2013 made the famously macho Gordon Ramsay cry. “If I lose a star, I’ll kill myself,” French chef Bernard Loiseau confided to a friend shortly before he did indeed commit suicide amid speculation that his restaurant La Côte d’Or in Burgundy was about to lose its third Michelin star. There is a lot of pride, vanity and ambition at the top end of the restaurant business, as well as a heck of…

Roast grape, balsamic and radicchio spelt pizzas MAKES 6 SMALL PIZZAS. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 12-14 MIN, PLUS RISING • 200g wholemeal spelt flour • 200g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting • 100g fine semolina • 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp caster sugar • 350g warm water • Extra-virgin olive oil for oiling, plus extra to drizzle FOR THE TOPPING • 500g ricotta • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 100g firm mozzarella, grated • Large bunch small red grapes, picked, halved if large • 2 tbsp balsamic glaze, plus extra to drizzle • 1 radicchio, sliced YOU’LL ALSO NEED… • 2-3 large baking sheets, generously dusted with semolina 1 In a large bowl, mix the flours and semolina.…

Riverford Organic Farmers mini cucumbers, South West Guy Watson began his organic vegetable empire by delivering boxes of vegetables to friends in Devon. Surprised by its success, he set up a veg box scheme in 1993, and today Riverford Organic Farmers delivers fresh fruit and vegetables to more than 47,000 customers a week in England and South Wales. The organic farms grow 100-plus types of fruit and vegetables, including these flavour-packed mini cucumbers. Many non-organic cucumbers are grown with their roots in water, but Riverford’s are grown in soil, and the taste difference is remarkable. Winner of Ethical Product of the Decade at the Observer Ethical Awards 2015, Riverford Organic Farmers continues to work on minimising its environmental impact. In response to demand it has partnered with regional farms across…

H Forman & Son Royal Fillet, London and South East The oldest producers of smoked salmon in Britain, H Forman & Son have been smoking and curing in East London for more than 100 years. Unlike many smokehouses, H Forman & Son uses only sustainable fish from the wild or RSPCA-approved farms. Using the freshest fish makes a big difference to the taste so they insist on receiving wild fish within 24 hours of being caught (48 hours for farmed salmon). Forman & Son is also a waste-conscious producer: off-cuts are used for salmon jerky, trimmings become pâté or fishcakes, and fish bones are used to make stock. Their London Cure smoked salmon has just been awarded PGI protected food status by the EU, an accreditation also held by champagne…

INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER. ILLUSTRATIONS: BRITTANY MOLINEUX I would like to write fiction, but every time I buy a notebook to write down my astute observations of human nature I end up with lists of bloody dish ideas instead. Sometimes if I can’t get to sleep at night it will be because I am thinking: will rhubarb go with rosemary? Flavours are always in my head. What I come up with is neither subtle nor sophisticated. I like big flavours. I am not Raymond Blanc. But I think about food and flavours all the time. I started to cook when I was about six. I adored it. It was about making things – cooking allows you to be both practical and creative. I had the Picador Junior Cookbook and a picture…

Every Sunday my granny would make this wonderful dish. It was the only day of the week that we’d all sit round the table as a family, as my dear late father and mother worked hard all week long. Granny’s rice pudding is satisfying and reassuringly British. Golden syrup was a staple in her pantry and the memory of prising it off the larder shelf, with all its sticky drippings, is still vivid. Recollections like these have stuck with me over the years, and when I first decided to train as a chef, inspiration from childhood was significant. It’s funny to think that a single dish of my grandma’s has played a part in my career and what I’ve accomplished. Food holds so much emotional importance – when I’m thinking…

WEEKNIGHT PROMISE Your guarantee for every recipe in this feature: NO MORE THAN… • 10 ingredients • 30 min hands-on time • 650 calories per portion (but most recipes have fewer) • 10g sat fat per portion PLUS… • No unnecessary added sugar • Minimal washing up THE BUDGE T RECIPE Baked eggs in spicy chorizo tomato sauce SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make up to the end of step 2 up to 24 hours ahead, then cool, cover and chill. Reheat and finish the recipe. NEXT TIME Omit the butter beans and stir the tomato sauce into pasta. Try ’ndjua (spicy spreadable sausage from Italy) instead of chorizo. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Use 100ml leftover red or white wine instead of the red wine vinegar (step 2).…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: ELLA TARN. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON Carrot, ginger and coriander fritters MAKES 16. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN HOW WE DID IT Fritters are usually deep-fried, but we’ve reduced the fat – and the calories – by shallow frying, then baking in a hot oven until crisp. MAKE AHEAD You can make these fritters a few hours in advance and rewarm in a medium-hot oven until piping hot. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you like heat, add a freshly chopped green chilli or 1 tsp dried chilli flakes to the mix. • 750g carrots, coarsely grated • 3cm piece fresh ginger, finely grated • ½ tbsp coriander seeds, toasted in a dry pan • 2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted in a dry pan • ½ tbsp…

Most scientists and dietitians agree that fortifying food is an effective way to prevent nutritional deficiencies and related diseases such as rickets (caused by a lack of vitamin D) and osteoporosis (caused by calcium deficiency), especially among vulnerable groups. But others are concerned about the possible toxic effects of consuming too much of certain nutrients. WHY IS FOOD FORTIFIED? Sometimes nutrients are added to food to restore what has been lost during processing. For example, under UK law it’s been compulsory for decades for manufacturers to add calcium, iron, thiamine and niacin to white flour because the nutrients are lost during the milling of wheat. But some campaigners for real bread argue this policy is now unnecessary, as diets have improved significantly since the law was introduced. Manufacturers sometimes voluntarily…

“Fougasse is a flatbread and belongs to the same family as focaccia. Traditionally, before home ovens were introduced, flatbreads were cooked under the cinders in the hearth – in fact, fougasse comes from the Latin word ‘focus’, which means ‘hearth’. The fougasse’s impressive looks came about because it was customary to mark the harvest each year with a flatbread made from the first cut of wheat, shaped to resemble a wheatsheaf. It’s a great loaf, crunchy on the outside and soft inside. Today, this is one of the first recipes I get students to bake at my cookery school, The Bertinet Kitchen. When the loaves come out of the oven I see everyone wearing what I call the ‘fougasse grin’ – they can’t hide the sheer pride in what they’ve…