Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2013 i Bon Appetit

Our brand-new app, Thanksgiving: a Bon Appétit Manual, has 101 foolproof recipes, plus tips, tricks, and how-to videos from our test kitchen, all designed to deliver the tastiest, least-stressful holiday ever. It’s the closest we could get to coming to your house to help you cook. Download it for iPad® or iPhone® at bonappetit.com/tgivingapp PIE CHART WE ASKE DOUR FACE BOOK FANS: 32% PUMPKIN “I live in Britain most of the year and they just don’t do pumpkin pie. I miss it like crazy!” —Elizabeth Lee 21% PECAN “It brings back memories of our time living in the South.” —Vicki Lande 19% APPLE “The blend of fruit and cinnamon tastes like love.” —Elizabeth Barrie Buck 15% OTHER “Mincemeat! It’s sad that this time-honored and delicious pie has fallen from favor.”…

We love a classic brined turkey (so moist, right?), but it’s too much of a production. Enter the dry "brine." Like a concentrated rub, it’s massaged onto the skin and left to cure for 6-7 hours before the bird hits the oven. The result: flavor down to the bone. Ingredient options are endless, but this citrus and peppercorn number goes with everything on the table: Toast 2 Tbsp. black peppercorns, 1 Tbsp. pink peppercorns, 2 tsp. white peppercorns, 2 tsp. coriander seeds, and 6 bay leaves in a skillet until fragrant. Let cool, then crush in a bag using a rolling pin or heavy skillet. Mix with !4 cup kosher salt, 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar, 1/2 cup lemon zest, and 2 Tbsp. orange zest. Apply to a 12-14-lb. turkey…

1 Master the Classic Dressing Tear two 1-lb. loaves country-style bread into 1" pieces (you should have about 20 cups); spread out on baking sheets and let sit overnight to dry out. Preheat oven to 375°. Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 2 chopped medium onions, 4 chopped celery stalks, 1 chopped garlic clove, 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh sage, and / tsp. fresh thyme leaves; season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft, 10-12 minutes. Add 1A sticks cut-up unsalted butter, 1/2 tsp. celery seeds, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and 2A cups low-sodium chicken broth and cook, stirring occasionally, until butter is melted. Transfer to a large bowl; add bread and 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley. Toss,…

By the time you read this, our Thanksgiving game plan will be fully mapped out. The menu will have been tweaked and retweaked to reflect just the right amount of tradition (Grandma Jody’s herb-roasted turkey, mashed potatoes) and adventure (no-cook cranberry-orange relish with mint, cauliflower with anchovy breadcrumbs); the duties will have been divvied up among aunts and uncles. Anything that can be done in advance-grocery shopping, pie crust making, bourbon stocking-will be done in advance. By the time the last Thursday in November rolls around, we are totally, 100 percent ready to rock. And then we remember the last Wednesday in November-also known as Thanksgiving Eve, also known as Oh, Sh-t, We Have 14 People Standing Around the Kitchen, Half of Them Starving Kids, and We Forgot We’re Responsible…

Collard Green and Radish Slaw with Crispy Shallots ACTIVE 20 MINUTES TOTAL 20 MINUTES 4 SERVINGS Get out your knife and turn to Prep School, page 144, for our trick to removing the center rib of collards in one fast motion. 2 small shallots, sliced into rings 6 Tbsp. vegetable oil Kosher salt 1 bunch collard greens (about 10 oz.), center ribs and stems removed, thinly sliced crosswise 6 small radishes, trimmed, sliced 2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar Freshly ground black pepper Cook shallots and oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until shallots are golden, 8–10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer shallots to a paper towel–lined plate; season with salt. Transfer oil to a small bowl and let cool. Combine collard greens, radishes, and vinegar…

Let’s be honest: You’d be crazy to visit Rome and not eat spaghetti alla carbonara and bucatini all’amatriciana. But you shouldn’t just stick to the classics. In recent years, massive strides forward in ingenuity, ingredient sourcing, and technique have ushered in a restaurant renaissance. That’s where the Prati and Trionfale districts, a pair of off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods just north of that tourist epicenter known as the Vatican, come into play. Together, they offer an inspired balance of tradition and innovation. Along the broad, tree-lined avenues and elegant residential blocks, you can eat inventive pizza from the “Michel-angelo of dough” or simply order a perfect plate of salumi. Of course, there are plenty of sweets options: tiramisu and gelato in every flavor imaginable—even oyster and mortadella. If all roads lead to Rome,…

FOODS OF THE FOOTHILLS At Blackberry Farm, a luxury resort set on 4,200 acres in Walland, Tennessee (blackberryfarm.com), chef Joseph Lenn relies on regional ingredients to craft world-class cuisine. Here’s a sample of what he keeps in his pantry. SORGHUM SYRUP “When I think fall flavors, I think of sorghum,” says Lenn of this sweetener, which is derived from sorghum grasses and is like a darker, less sweet, more robust honey. BENNE SEEDS These delicate heritage seeds are related to, but not exactly the same as, sesame seeds. Lenn uses them to add nuttiness to everything from vegetables to cakes. They’re almost impossible to find through retail outlets; substitute sesame seeds. STONE-GROUND CORNMEAL “The stuff that’s been sitting on grocerystore shelves doesn’t have real corn flavor to me,” says Lenn.…

SALT-AND-PEPPER BISCUITS MAKES 8 Adding sour cream to the dough imparts richness and a bit of tang, and doesn’t thin it out too much. ¾ cup sour cream 4 Tbsp. heavy cream, divided 1 Tbsp. baking powder 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. sugar ½ tsp. coarsely ground black pepper plus more 2 cups all-purpose flour plus more for surface 6 Tbsp. (¾ stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon) Salt-and-Pepper Butter (optional; see recipe) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A 2¼"-diameter biscuit or cookie cutter Preheat oven to 425°. Whisk sour cream and 3 Tbsp. heavy cream in a small bowl. Pulse baking powder, kosher salt, sugar, ½ tsp. pepper, and 2 cups flour in a food processor until combined; add butter and pulse until the…

Thomas Keller Sure, Thomas Keller will sous-vide a turkey for a magazine story. But if you go to his house for Thanksgiving, his table looks just like yours. "There’s nothing you’d get out of me that would be surprising or new," says the chef-owner of The French Laundry, Per Se, and B ouch on. "It’s about tradition." For him, that means crudites, turkey with sage stuffing, green beans amandine, pearl onions (see above), and mashed potatoes. Okay, so the pumpkin pie is made with butternut squash, and everything is cooked in the French Laundry kitchen in just three hours. But even Keller can’t escape a pitfall: "Sometimes the white meat is a little overcooked. But that’s Thanksgiving! It’s not necessarily about the food, is it?" PEARL JAM "For my mother,…

THERE WE WERE, ABOUT 20 OF US Bon Appétit editors gathered around a ginormous conference-room table, ready to agree upon why Thanksgiving is, you know, the greatest holiday in the history of ever. Except we couldn’t agree on anything. Stacey Rivera, our intrepid managing editor, was talking some nonsense about eating dinner at 2 p.m. Creative director Alex Grossman, our resident Pacific Northwesterner (he’s from Orcas Island, Washington), was lobbying for oysters, not sausage, as the primary flavoring agent in stuffing. Food and features editor Carla Lalli Music insisted on roasting a leftovers-only “backup” turkey. And I was arguing with all of them. For a holiday so rooted in rituals, rules, and traditions, it’s fascinating how Thanksgiving is celebrated differently by all of us. It’s almost as if—gasp!—there isn’t just…

Invite Everyone You Know “Growing up, we had 30, 40, 50 people coming through the house some Thanksgivings. Sometimes there was a kids’ table; other times the plate was just sitting on your lap. You get in where you fit in at that house.” Get Your Pregame On “Gotta have a drink. I’ll pour myself some Don Julio Blanco, or Avión Silver, or Don Julio 70, then I get this Jamaican grapefruit soda called Ting. I mix my Thing and my tequila and call it Ta Ting!” Nail the Timing “I’ve had Thanksgiving dinner as early as 1 p.m., but it’s usually around 5 p.m. That gives you enough time to eat, get full, relax, and then eat again.” Seconds First “I know people who make a second plate before…

I’m hosting my first Thanksgiving dinner this year. Luckily, I already have the wine picked out: Italian Barbera. I didn’t choose it because it goes well with stuffing (although it does); I chose it because it goes well with everything. What is it about Barbera, a workhorse grape and the “house wine” of the Piedmont region, that makes it my all-purpose red of choice? For starters, I can get a great bottle for around $30, which helps when buying multiples for a special feast. Barbera also plays well with a variety of dishes: Its fruit is generous, its acidity bracing, its tannins soft, and its alcohol moderate. It is a plush, cherry-red crowd-pleaser with enough “cut” to still feel like a wine, not a confection. My preference is for lighter,…

THE FOODIST’S TURKEY-DAY TIMELINE 7 A.M. Breakfast! Toast and Norwegian cheese for the kids. Toast with mackerel and tomato sauce for the adults. 8 A.M. Mix and prebake cornbreadandouille-oyster dressing. 10 A.M. Rinse brined turkey (I swear by Alton Brown’s recipe on bonappetit.com 10:01A.M. Poop the first bottle of bubbly (don’t judge it’s a holiday). Glass no.1 goes to mmy wife. 11 A.M. Appetizers: Slice Edwards country ham, bring out the pecan cheese ball. 12:30 P.M. Football! Bet on the Packers. P.M. Mash potatoes (crème fraîche and butter); sauté brussels sprouts with tasso; finish gravy. 2:30 P.M. Dinner is served. Who eats Thanksgiving at 6? 3:30 P.M. Pass out. 4 P.M. Wake. Eat pumpkin pie with honey whipped cream, drink Elmer T. Lee bourbon. 7 P.M. Put kids to bed.…

I CANNOT IN GOOD CONSCIENCE tell you to skip the pecan pie this Thanksgiving. And by all means enjoy the cornbread-sausage dressing on page 135. But how can you eat to your heart’s content without going up a pants size? My collaborator, registered dietitian Marissa Lippert, and I devised a plan that leaves the big day untouched but neutralizes the gluttony with healthful meals the rest of the week (Monday to Wednesday and Friday to Sunday). It’s not drastic; just six rules to keep your holiday in check, calorically speaking. 1 DOWNSIZE YOUR DINNERWARE For the six other days, round down portions by about 15 percent. Using salad plates and small serving spoons will help. 2 EAT A SOLID BREAKFAST Starting your day on empty may cut calories, but your…

THANKSGIVING, THAT TRULY AMERICAN festivity, is open to everyone who wants to celebrate. But it takes some figuring out before the traditions can take hold. One November afternoon, when my husband and I lived in D.C., the young Somali woman working at the local convenience store asked for my help. She’d been less than a year in the U.S., had minimal English, enormous gratitude at having escaped her wartorn homeland, and a baby on the way. “My husband and I want to celebrate Thanksgiving,” she said, her face intent and hopeful. “So tell me about this ‘ turkey’: Do we boil it?” I was sympathetic to her confusion. Growing up, I knew about Thanksgiving’s rituals only from television and my friends’ accounts. Along with other holidays that my French father…

1 Palm-size and great for grabbing lots of greens. BlissHome Nigella Lawson’s Living Kitchen melamine serving hands in oak, $39 for two; amazon.com 2 Some heft and a slender shape make for plating perfect slivers of all the pies. “Lolo Brushed” serving knife, $45; teroforma.com 3 This smaller serving spoon is ideal for doling out sides like cranberry relish. David Mellor serving spoon, $30; heathceramics.com 4 A long handle makes this handcrafted ladle a good option for soups. “Swan” teak ladle, $34; merchant4.com 5 Go classic with this horn and bone pair. Natural white bone two-piece serving set, $45; restorationhardware.com 6 Sleek form and function meet in these slim, chopstick-like tongs. “Pick Up” large tongs, $22; designhousestockholmusa.com 7 These ultraversatile colordipped tools brighten up the table. “Superior” solid spoon and…

Photographs by MIKKEL VANG HOW DOES THE FIRST FAMILY OF CALIFORNIA WINES CELEBRATE THANKSGIVING? ROTISSERIE TURKEY, JUST-FORAGED CHANTERELLES, INCREDIBLE VINEYARD VIEWS, AND, YES, LOTS AND LOTS OF WINE. HUGH GARVEY GETS A SEAT AT THE MONDAVI TABLE TIM Mondavi IS IN THE CELLAR of his Napa Valley house, selecting wines to serve at Thanksgiving. That’s right: Mondavi. As in, son of Robert Mondavi. As in, co-winemaker of the frst vintage of Opus One. As in, the guy you want choosing the wine for dinner. He bypasses the bottles of first-growth Rothschilds and Antinori Super Tuscans and grabs a few vintages of his high-end label, Continuum, a Cabernet Sauvignon–Cab Franc blend that he started making in this region after Robert Mondavi Winery was purchased by a conglomerate in 2004. It makes…

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, I’M NOT A HUGE CHOCOLATE CAKE FAN, BUT I LOVED THE SALTED VERSION AT SPORTELLO IN BOSTON SO MUCH, I WOULD DO ANYTHING TO BE ABLE TO RE-CREATE IT. —BRIANNE STUDER, Boston CHOCOLATE-CARAMEL CAKE WITH SEA SALT 10 SERVINGS Mayonnaise in the batter isn’t as weird as it sounds—it’s just eggs and oil, after all. It’s also why this cake is so moist. CAKE Nonstick vegetable oil spray 2¼ cups all-purpose flour ¾ cup natural unsweetened cocoa powder 1¾ tsp. baking powder ¼ tsp. baking soda ½ tsp. kosher salt 3 large eggs 1½ cups sugar 1¼ cups mayonnaise (not low-fat) 1 Tbsp. vanilla extract FROSTING AND ASSEMBLY 12 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped ¾ cup sugar 1 Tbsp. light corn syrup 1 cup heavy cream 1½ cups…

I was born in the seventies, when people weren’t, like, into food yet. Thanksgiving was always green beans and almonds, Pepperidge Farm stuffing—old-school stuff like that. My grandfather had this tan-and-brown electric knife that made tons of noise, and that’s what we used to carve big birds. At Thanksgiving, I’d be starving, and the buzz of the knife was a sign that we were about to eat. As a craftsperson, my knives are my tools; I like them sexy and sharp. But after having a conversation with Alex Talbot from the blog Ideas In Food, I got serious about the electric knife. I picked up a Cuisinart one and did a demo last year on YouTube. The first couple of cuts with that electric knife on a beautifully roasted bird…

TURKEY PANINO WITH CRANBERRY SAUCE “A panini press works its crisping, melting magic on just about any iWdZm_Y^$ M^Wj better way to transform leftover turkey into the ultimate grilled cheese? Cranberry sauce gets along nicely with the cheddar.”—Christine Muhlke, executive editor Build a sandwich with country-style bread, sliced turkey, sliced sharp white cheddar or Gruyère, and fresh sage leaves. Butter outer slices of bread and cook in a panini press or a skillet until bread is toasted and cheese melts. Serve with cranberry sauce. BARBECUE TURKEY SANDWICH "I was only a teenager when I realized I could craft a killer sandwich from my mom’s leftover biscuits and turkey and a bottle of Sweet Baby Ray’s sauce. I love Thanksgiving, but I’m a barbecue man at heart."—Jacob Romoser, photo assistant Build…

1 Baste with a Brush News flash: You don’t need a baster. Use a brush to paint the drippings onto the turkey every 30 minutes or so, which keeps the bird moist and helps it get golden brown—all without burning yourself trying to siphon hot pan drippings. 2 Always Use a Thermometer Taking the temperature of your (de-)feathered friend is the most accurate way to tell if it’s ready. Remove the turkey from the oven (so the oven stays warm in case the bird’s not done). Insert the thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh, keeping it parallel to the bone without hitting it. This spot reaches 165° last; if you’re good here, you’re good everywhere. 3 A Ricer Is Nicer Using a ricer gets you perfect mashed spuds:…

STRAWBERRY SUFGANIYOT WHAT YOU’LL NEED MAKES ABOUT 16 DOUGH 1 ¼-oz. envelope active dry yeast (about 2 ¼ tsp.) 3–4 cups all-purpose flour, divided, plus more for surface 1 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup sugar 2 large egg yolks 1 large egg ½ cup warm whole milk ½ tsp. finely grated orange zest 2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 1 Tbsp. brandy (optional) 1 tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. vanilla extract 6 Tbsp. (¾ stick) unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into pieces, plus more FRYING AND ASSEMBLY Vegetable oil (for frying; about 8 cups) 11/2 cups strawberry jam Powdered sugar (for dusting) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A deep-fry thermometer; piping bag, and ¼" round tip; 2½"-diameter biscuit or cookie cutter LATKES GET THE ATTENTION. But there’s another fried favorite worthy of the Hanukkah table:…

1 Roast a Turkey of a Different Flavor Look to Mexico, where turkey has been the big bird for centuries. Continue the theme by using the leftovers for tacos (corn tortillas, shredded meat, lime…). We promise you won’t miss your sandwich. CHILE-RUBBED TURKEY CHILE PASTE 10 dried guajillo chiles 6 dried ancho chiles 8 dried chiles de árbol 2 Tbsp. cumin seeds 1 small onion, chopped 1 head of garlic, cloves peeled, crushed BRINE AND TURKEY 6 12-oz. cans pale lager (such as Tecate or Budweiser) ½ cup (packed) light brown sugar 2 bunches oregano, divided 1 cup plus 2½ tsp. kosher salt 1 12–14-lb. turkey, giblets and neck removed 1 large onion, quartered 1 head of garlic, halved 2 cups (or more) lowsodium chicken broth ½ cup (1 stick)…

GAME-CHANGER Switch up your pie crust Intimidated by traditional crusts? This press-in gingersnap version is supersimple and super-delicious, and there are few custard pies it wouldn’t complement. In other words, you’re allowed to keep the rolling pin in the drawer this year. YOGURT PIE WITH GRAPE AND BLACK-PEPPER COMPOTE 8 SERVINGS We tried all kinds of gingersnaps to make this easy crust. Our favorite? Anna’s Ginger Thins. GINGERSNAP CRUST 10 oz. gingersnaps, preferably thin 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp. raw sugar or granulated sugar 1/2 tsp. kosher salt 6 Tbsp. (. stick) unsalted butter, melted, slightly cooled FILLING, COMPOTE, AND ASSEMBLY 2 tsp. unflavored powdered gelatin 2 Tbsp. plus 1/3 cup whole milk 23/4 cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt 1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar 1 tsp. finely grated…

TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPÉTIT TEST KITCHEN HOLE IN (EVERY) ONE FROM P. 74 An organized set of ring cutters has a calming effect on me, even if the thought of holiday cooking and baking inspires the exact opposite. A variety of sizes means they work for a range of projects (all the better for delegating tasks to guests). In addition to cutting doughnuts, use them for biscuits on Thanksgiving Day (see page 128 for our recipe). They’re also handy at brunch for removing tidy circles from bread for toad-in-the-hole. And we guarantee you’ll find more uses for them when Christmas rolls around. Did somebody say cookies? —ELEANORE PARK MORE THAN SKIN DEEP FROM P. 98 Rubbing flavorful ancho chile paste under the turkey skin for our…