THERE WE WERE, ABOUT 20 OF US Bon Appétit editors gathered around a ginormous conference-room table, ready to agree upon why Thanksgiving is, you know, the greatest holiday in the history of ever.
Except we couldn’t agree on anything. Stacey Rivera, our intrepid managing editor, was talking some nonsense about eating dinner at 2 p.m. Creative director Alex Grossman, our resident Pacific Northwesterner (he’s from Orcas Island, Washington), was lobbying for oysters, not sausage, as the primary flavoring agent in stuffing. Food and features editor Carla Lalli Music insisted on roasting a leftovers-only “backup” turkey. And I was arguing with all of them.
For a holiday so rooted in rituals, rules, and traditions, it’s fascinating how Thanksgiving is celebrated differently by all of us. It’s almost as if—gasp!—there isn’t just…