IT HAD BEEN A DOZEN YEARS since I set foot on Holbox (pronounced Holbosh), a slip of an island off the Yucatán Peninsula where the Caribbean Sea flows into the Gulf of Mexico. In 2010, I’d been looking for an alternative to Tulum, the hipster hot spot two hour’s drive south of Cancun. Tipped off by a local, I’d driven the other way, two and a half hours north of Cancun, collecting my mother, whose 60th birthday it was, at the airport en route. Together, we set off for the dusty, nondescript town of Chiquilá near the border of the Yucatán and Quintana Roo, to catch a half-hour ferry to the unknown island of Holbox.
Forty-one kilometres long, but only 1.6 km wide, Holbox snakes along the ocean, 12 km…
