Back in early 2022, Mary and I stood on Barnstaple Quay and admired its row of smart ladders, timber fender posts and rings for mooring warps. But something was missing: there were no boats, and locals confirmed that visiting yachts were very rare. We had come by road, for a recce, and were determined to re-visit by water, although charts and pilot books were highly discouraging.
An expedition to Barnstaple, on the estuary of the rivers Taw and Torridge, is hard work – a passage to a notorious lee shore, across a dangerous harbour bar, up a tricky river, over drying banks and finally under a not-very-high bridge. Despite the natural obstacles, the town served as a busy port for more than a thousand years, largely because the southern shore…
