We were in Lawrence Cove, Bere Island, when a great truth came to us – that in every cruise there comes a point when it needs to stop, take a deep breath, and deal with accumulated human and physical detritus, deterioration and (frankly) mutual irritability. In short, we must reboot like an overladen computer. This analogy felt right when, sweaty under the unaccustomed sun and tired from upwind sailing and then motoring through confused seas in short, sharp stages from Dingle, we slid into Berehaven and rowed ashore in Castletownbere for coffee and shops.
It’s a busy, smelly fishing harbour now and, despite the groceries, it didn’t have that reboot feeling. We still needed to press restart. So we left, a bit sweaty, a bit sweary getting the anchor up,…
