Innholdsfortegnelse for July/August 2024 i Woolworths TASTE

THERE'S A FEELING I GET FROM LOOKING AT OLD COOKBOOKS – the ones with smears and spills and loose pages that I learned to cook from. The Greek-style lamb with tzatziki from the Reader's Digest South African Cookbook is a portal back to my digs in Woodstock, as is Ina Paarman's butternut soup and Phillippa Cheifitz's yellowtail with two sauces from her first cookbook. This was before anyone, except Keith Floyd, had made a TV show about cooking. It was before YouTube and it was before TASTE. This was when I studied the recipes in Fairlady and Femina, and in pilfered copies of British Marie Claire where the dishes were created by an Australian named Donna Hay. Then my best friend introduced me to the River Café cookbooks and I saw…

“I grew up eating – and helping my ma and ouma prepare – a variety of mince dishes. They are still some of my happiest childhood memories” – Clem Pedro FRIKKADELS WITH BUTTERY MASH AND SMOOR “Whenever my mom made this recipe, it was a community event. Neighbours would arrive with their Tupperware, my dad would deliver to others, and I had to perform a balancing act on my bicycle, carrying multiple dishes at once to people who lived nearby.” Serves 6 A LITTLE EFFORT GREAT VALUE Preparation: 40 minutes Cooking: 1 hour 15 minutes For the buttery mash: Woolworths Everyday large potatoes 2 kg  salt, to taste  cream 1 cup  butter 125 g For the tomato smoor: canola oil 4 T  large onions 2, halved and thinly sliced  bay…

OFF THE MENU How to shop for it Look for firm roots with no green or spongy parts and no black spots or wrinkling skin. The colour should be a light brown, and the peeled/grated flesh should have a soft, ivory tone. How to store it Store it in the vegetable drawer of the fridge for up to a week – it will start to dry out as soon as it's cut, so leave the roots whole. Grated fresh horseradish can be frozen for up to three months but will lose some of its kick. How to prepare it The best way to use horseradish is to grate it and use as a condiment or in a sauce. Be sure to open a window before you do – the effect…

OFF THE MENU Years ago, when I was a young, inexperienced journalist in the Big City (Cape Town, that is), I fell hard for a food magazine. This came as a surprise since I did not come from a “foodie” household, but rather a somewhat conservative Afrikaans kitchen. Gourmet, or inventive, cooking was not part of our lexicon. My mom (bless her) was a tennis coach. We ate well but she didn't relish being in the kitchen. My dad loved to braai, but back then he preferred his meat very “well done” (bless him, too). It was only after graduating that I started learning about interesting food. And then came that magazine cover. It was immensely compelling: a simple plate of plum-hued ripe figs and, inside, a recipe for a…

“A Mexican cazuela pot can be used on a gas or electric stovetop, in the oven, and over braai coals” “I've recently rediscovered the benefits of cooking and baking in clay pots and have been experimenting with a variety of pot styles used in different countries. They're great for slow-cooking – perfect for winter – and produce a tender, flavourful result. But if you don't have the urge to invest in the real deal, you can still make these dishes in your regular ovenproof dishes.” – Abigail Donnelly ONIONS BAKED IN CLAY WITH SAFFRON-AND-MAPLE GLAZE “Wrapping the onions in clay retains more moisture and intensifies the flavour of the herbs. It's also a fun way to cook in the coals at your next braai. You can also do sweet potatoes this…

What's happening online? @WWTaste WHY EVERY HOME COOK NEEDS A CAST-IRON PAN Here's why this is about to become your most-used pan: Cast-iron pans get extremely hot and retain heat very well. This means that they don't cool down too much when you add food to them, so you'll get beautifully seared steaks and perfect burgers. Maillard reaction, anyone? This high heat also means you'll get a better crust on baked goods such as flapjacks, pies and breads. When properly seasoned, they offer a nonstick surface without any chemical additives. Cast-iron pans can go from stovetop to oven, or even braai or campfire. Contrary to popular belief, you can cook acidic sauces in them – provided they're fairly quick. Unlike most pans, they actually get better with age. They're very…

SCARLET FEVER We're seeing rhubarb on menus and pâtisserie counters everywhere, and not just the way your gran used to serve it. Think rhubarb panna cotta slices, flans served with stewed rhubarb, rhubarb-flavoured cocktails, spicy rhubarb chutneys, and tarts like this rhubarb-and-custard creation (find the recipe at taste.co.za). It may be part of the current fancy for nostalgic desserts, but we're hoping it's here to stay. Turn the page for more food and restaurant trends we've spotted recently.…

OFF THE MENU “I will always love the PRAWN COCKTAIL CHIPS. They were the first Woolies food item I ever bought, back at the store in Eloff Street in Johannesburg.” – Abigail Donnelly “I'm obsessed with the CHICKEN SCHNITZELS. I survived on them when both of my boys were babies. Throw them in the oven with some veg and serve with a dollop of mayo and chilli crunch.” – Katharine Pope “The FROZEN MASH has stood the test of time. It's almost impossible to get (homemade) mashed potatoes that smooth and creamy.” – Khanya Mzongwana “For me it's the FRESH VANILLA CUSTARD with vanilla beans. It falls into the category of you can't make it better yourself, so why even try?” – Katherine Botes “Jalapeño ATCHAR, always and forever. Preferably…

TASTES THAT BIND I hate goodbyes. They make me anxious and unhappy. I want them to be perfect. And memorable. I obsess over them. Probably more than most. After the death of each of my loved ones, I have grieved about the things left unsaid. Worried about the way the last conversations went. Had I said enough? Had I said too much? This preoccupation with the perfect ending can be problematic. Especially if one's partner is less so inclined. Jacques is pragmatic. I am not. Sometimes he rushes out the door without saying goodbye. Other times it's a quick kiss and a “see you later”. Often we leave one another mid-argument; enraged and exhausted. Occasionally it's a preoccupied “bye”. I like that one the least. It has no passion, no…

EASY PASTAS “We usually have pasta at home at least twice a week and it remains my favourite food to cook and eat. Eating it always reminds me of a funny travel story. On a trip to Venice, I came across a trattoria owned by a nonna who spoke no English. I ordered the squid ink spaghetti, which tasted incredible and I slurped it all up enthusiastically before going out to explore the alleyways. Later, back in my hotel room, I discovered my face was” covered in freckles of squid ink. – Abigail Donnelly ROAST BUTTERNUT SPAGHETTI WITH GORGONZOLA AND ARTICHOKES “I usually serve this sauce with just the butternut and sundried tomatoes, but the cheese makes it extra special. You can cook the butternut in the air-fryer, which will save…

WINTER CROP “T he beauty of winter and her vegetable garden charms me year after year. I always find comfort in the simplicity of this season's crop – roasted, steamed or charred over an open fire” – Herman Lensing SPINACH-AND-RICOTTA GNOCCHI “This classic recipe makes a great starter but is also a satisfying meal on its own.” Serves 6 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 10 minutes, plus 20 minutes’ chilling time Cooking: 30 minutes baby spinach 200 g  parsley leaves a small handful, finely chopped Woolworths ricotta 140 g free-range eggs 2 garlic 1 clove, crushed  flour 140 g Parmesan 100 g, finely grated ground nutmeg ½ t sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste butter 6 T mustard seeds 1 t lemons 2, zested and juiced 1 Bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Blanch the spinach…

“I had to cook all the recipes myself and everything was 100% edible. It had to be ‘eat off the page’” – Maranda Engelbrecht WHEN TASTE LAUNCHED IN OCTOBER 2003, Sumien Brink was the editor-in-chief working alongside art director Jaco Janse van Rensburg, food editor Phillippa Cheifitz and an incredible editorial team at New Media. The first editor's letter, written by Phillippa, said, “This is the magazine we have all been waiting for.” Maranda Engelbrecht was the creative force on Woolworths’ board for TASTE. “I was involved in the planning of each magazine from a Woolworths retail perspective and created a series of stories called ‘Food and Mood’. I had to cook all the recipes myself and the flavour was truly reflected in every image. We even won an award…

What's happening online? @WWTaste While working on this issue, we've also been cooking up a new-look website! (We never rest.) Head to taste.co.za to see our shiny new site, where you'll find our archive of recipes, dating back to 2003, only much easier to search. Browse by ingredient, dish or occasion, save your favourites to your personal collection for next week's meal plan/dinner party and join the TASTE community by rating and reviewing your choices. Bonus: get the recipe for this pistachio cream pie by Bianca Strydom…

OFF THE MENU CAN-DO ATTITUDE Seafood boards using canned goods are all over the socials – think canned sardines, smoked mussels and tuna on a board with pickles, dips, cheese and crackers. You could turn a single can into a snack in mere minutes: drain smoked mussels, mix with 1 t harissa paste, return the mussels to the can, top with 2 T grated smoked Stanford cheese, then bake for 15 minutes at 1800C until golden brown. Sprinkle with chopped chives and serve hot with crackers. WHAT'S BIG ON MENUS RIGHT NOW? Nostalgic desserts are hot, hot, hot. And they're more than just interesting malva puddings (although those are welcome!). Sundaes are back on menus, and we're lusting after creations such as the guava-and-custard baked flan at Faber in Paarl.…

OFF THE MENU Three dream dinner guests (dead or alive)? Anthony Bourdain – I love how he saw food as a way to connect with and understand others, and his TV shows were kind of anarchistic. Julia Child, because she was such a character – she was unapologetically herself and followed her passions. Alison Roman (below), because I love her quirky style and her casual yet irresistible approach to food. Favourite tipple? I love sparkling natural wine at the moment. Copenhagen has a great wine scene and there are so many great wine bars and shops to choose from. The indispensable ingredient you use today that you couldn't stand when younger? Anchovies. I love putting them in everything. They are the most wonderful, umami-rich flavour enhancer. They make everything taste…

TASTES LIKE MORE I distinctly remember being 10 years old in my parents’ kitchen, confidently making my first pot of mince curry under the guidance of my mother, Shoneez Marks. At the time, it didn't seem remarkable, it felt like a natural progression from having learnt to bake at an even younger age. My mother lost her own mother to cancer when she was 16. As the oldest child, she assumed the responsibility of cooking for her father and four siblings. This combination of her inexperience and my grandmother's early passing fuelled my mother's goal for me to start cooking early. Weekends became my turn to make food for the family. At that age, with ample time and energy, I was an adventurous cook. I'd look for new dishes to…

STREET FOOD A–Z “DOES STREET FOOD HAVE TO BE EATEN hot and fresh on the side of the road? Does a braai count if you're eating it at home and not leaning on the bonnet of a car? Are amagwinya eligible once they've been elevated on a tasting menu by Mmabatho Molefe? These were the questions I debated with food anthropologist Anna Trapido. We agreed that street food should at least be affordable, easily accessible, and found on street corners, where vendors sell it to commuters, students and anyone wanting to satisfy their longing for salt, fat, heat and comfort. It is fuss-free, tasty, generally brown, and often wrapped in bread of some kind. Based on this, I came up with my personal list of SA street food. It's not…

EXPERT TIP If you want to prepare this a day in advance, you can make the lamb curry base but don't soak or cook the rice until the next day when you're ready to serve. “Cooking and eating good, home-made food has always been a part of my life; whether it was prepared by my mother or sister or, in later years, by myself. I knew that any meal we made using the ingredients in our home was going to fill and nourish us. My parents taught me that making and serving food is an act of service and an evocative language of love. My mother taught me that when made with the right intentions, food can be medicine, and that a home-cooked meal can heal on all levels. This…

The Chuckles éclair You get chocolate éclairs, and then you get chocolate éclairs made by an awardwinning pastry chef. (The Eat Out Woolworths Restaurant Awards, to be precise.) These are the latter. They're filled with a dark chocolate ganache – spiked with a little coffee – and studded with a shining row of Chuckles. Learn how to master choux pastry, ganache, brownies, stuffed cookies and more in our new video series with pastry chef Motheba Makhetha. Cold comfort challenge accepted!! Catch Motheba in action on TASTE's social channels in July and August.…