ASKING A PERSON WHO LOVES COOKING how they learned to cook is like asking where they came from. You are asking them to tell their story. Food is inseparable from how we grew up, the stories of our families, our earliest memories. And if that is what is meant by “heritage food”, a subject with the potential to divide a room, then the irony is that it connects us all. The dishes may be different, but the feelings are the same.
In my career, even before I worked on TASTE, I interviewed a lot of chefs and celebrity cooks – the likes of Jamie Oliver, Nigella, Ottolenghi, Heston Blumenthal, even Anthony Bourdain – but it was only during the interview that I did for this issue, with Sabrina Ghayour, an…