Innholdsfortegnelse for September - October 2021 i Winestate Magazine

THIS IS AN ISSUETHAT WE ALWAYS LOOK FORWARDTO. Each year we put together a range of shiraz and syrah wines ranging from under $15 wines up to $200 plus wines, of course judged in ever increasing price categories. What makes this judging special is that at the pointy end we also pit the best of Australia against the best of France. As far as we know no one else does this, perhaps because these wines are normally not entered into these competitions and are quite pricey (with a reputation to maintain) so we go out and source them ourselves. As we have said many times, of all the reds, shiraz is the most reliable. Maybe because it is the most winemaker friendly, with its sweet natural fruit and soft tannins.…

IN June of this year, a free trade agreement (FTA) was made, in principle, between the UK and Australia. While the specifics of the deal may not be known for some months, and a final agreement signed maybe in 2022 … let’s take a look at what we know so far. Apart from that with the EU, it is the first trade deal that Brexit-UK has negotiated from scratch, as it were. The FTA is for goods and services. There are plenty of details still to be fine tooth-combed. From the UK side an aspect of concern is that related to farming, where minimum standards in the two countries diverge. The UK’s Food and Drink Federation (FDF) represents the food and drink manufacturing sector, with key stated themes around food…

SOMETIMES it seems like a wine company most of us have never heard of has come from nowhere and suddenly is offering wines that are right up there on the top shelf. That could easily be said of CW Wines, a Coonawarra-based company – hence the CW in its name – that for years has been producing premium quality bulk wines for other company’s labels, some of them with quite prestigious reputations. But as proof that you can’t keep all good things hidden under a rock forever, CW Wines is in the process of reinventing itself with strategic brand development that has it moving from bulk wine to premium bottled wine under labels it has either recently bought or previously owned but never fully developed. “The last 18 months has…

SOME wineries add on a food component almost as an afterthought. After all, it keeps people in place for longer if they have a plate of food in front of them, even if it’s just a regional platter. Others, and Calabria Wines in the Barossa is one of them, take their food much more seriously, to the extent that its restaurant is just as much a reason for a visit as its wines. Perhaps that’s to be expected, given the winery’s Italian origins more than 75 years ago at Griffith in the Riverina, where it is still based. Its owner Bill Calabria began his Barossa expansion in 2010 with the purchase of the original Hahn vineyard, which includes 12 rows of vines planted in 1914. By now dedicated to reviving…

WHILE the high street of Paddington, in Brisbane’s inner west, has a moody new bar called Noir, it’s all sunshine and greenery on the other side of town. Two vibrant new venues, The Green and Sunshine have recently opened on James St, but more on that later. Noir occupies a small and thoroughly maximised space, formally a design studio and fashion boutique, with a cosy mezzanine and almost hidden basement space as well as a breezy terrace out to one side of the bar. Moodily lit with scrubbed wood tables and a mix of stools and armchairs, the vibe is very ‘inner city’ chic. Tables of local business suits file in for afterwork drinks vying for tables alongside local residents sipping cocktails and the result is a convivial hum over…

Duane Coates MW Winemaker for Coates Wines. Duane has a Masters of Oenology from Adelaide University and has gained overseas winemaking experience in Burgundy, the Northern Rhone Valley regions in France, and the Douro Valley in Portugal. Leigh Francis Sensory Research Manager at the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI). On AWRI Teaching Advisory Panel and Technical Quality Panel. Associate judge, Adelaide wine show. Matt O’Leary Chief winemaker for Savitas Wines in the Barossa Valley. Formerly Senior Winemaker for Wolf Blass Wines. Judge at the Barossa wine show. Panelist at the Advanced Wine Assessment Course.…

Shane Harris Winemaker for Wines by Geoff Hardy including, K1 and Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy Wines. Has also completed vintages in Queensland and Victoria. Completed the AWRI advanced sensory course and has associate judged at McLaren Vale Wine Show. Winestate Winemaker of the Year in 2009, 2019 & 2020. Sara Zhang Winemaker at TWG (The Wine Group). Previously vintaged at Berri Estates, West Cape Howe, WA and Grower Wine Group in Australia. Overseas includes Villa Maria, Marlborough and Bordeaux for six months, Right Bank Chateaux, through a Bordeaux consultant. Has judged at the Riverland wine show. Alex Russell Owner/winemaker, Russell & Suitor wines, making alternative varieties from Pipers River (Tasmania), to Mildura (Victoria) and Riverland (South Australia). He has been a pioneer in introducing rare varietals such as saperavi, lagrein,…

Distinctive wines, full of personality, were highlights of the latest releases from New Zealand. Montepulciano is widely planted across central Italy, but Obsidian shows it can yield exciting red wine on Waiheke Island, in Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf. And do winemakers really need to add sulphur-dioxide as a preservative? See the review of Loveblock Tee Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2020 – they use green tea. Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). ⋆⋆⋆⋆⋆ Folding Hill Bendigo Central Otago Pinot Noir 2017 ⋆⋆⋆⋆⋆ 98pts Still youthful, this deep ruby red was hand-picked at Bendigo, matured for 10 months in French oak casks (25% new), and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Mouthfilling, it has fresh acidity and dense, well-ripened cherry, plum and…

38 TASTED 38 RECOMMENDED Marlborough dominates the South Island’s wine output. The smaller regions of Otago (including Central Otago and the Waitaki Valley in North Otago), Nelson and Canterbury (notably Waipara in North Canterbury), have just 12 per cent of New Zealand’s total vineyard area, but they are the home of 34 per cent of the country’s wine producers. This tasting unearthed excellent sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, riesling and pinot gris, and outstanding examples of gewürztraminer, sweet white wine, rosé and pinot noir. (Note Marlborough will be featured in a coming issue.) Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in export markets are shown as (A) Australia; (UK) and (US). SAUVIGNON BLANC 4 TASTED 4 RECOMMENDED A small but strong class. Two partly barrel-fermented examples prove that sauvignon blanc…

Nick Haselgrove Winestate’s 2010 Australian Winemaker of the Year. Owner/Winemaker of Nick Haselgrove Wines. Former chief winemaker at Haselgrove Wines. A ‘flying winemaker’ from 1993-95. Judge at Hobart for 3 years and associate judge at Adelaide in 1996-97. Extensive International export activities. Jeanne Gobrait Wine marketing consultant, including consultancy for David Ridge Italian Wines, Living Roots Wines and Paulmara Estates. Has also worked with Seppeltsfield, Shaw & Smith and the French Wine Centre. Has completed WSET course and AWRI advanced wine assessment course. Associate judge at Adelaide wine show. Steve Warrick Wine marketer with 20 years experience in McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills and Margaret River. Extensive wine judging experience at the Adelaide, Hobart and McLaren Vale wine shows.…

$20 & UNDER (NZ $25 & UNDER) Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing comprises the best wines currently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. TO QUALIFY 1 Wines must have first been recommended in Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal…

COVID - 19 ALERT STATUS *Normally we would have a series of trade and consumer tastings scheduled across Australia at major function venues but with the current social distancing and constantly changing event rules in place this is clearly impossible. Although many events have been fortunate enough to resume in limited capacities, due to the nature of our events and the number of wines, people and the ability to self-pour at our public tastings it is a logistical nightmare with unfortunately too many liabilities to proceed at this time. It seems pointless to flag future possibilities at this stage when we don’t know when things will return to normal or rules will be relaxed. We regret not being able to give you more information, particularly to those sponsors, our valued…

NOW that is a contentious title to an article! Aromatic wine lovers would say oak is not required, and in the case of riesling, gewurztraminer and to a point semillon and sauvignon blanc, they are probably right. There are other wines, such as the majority of Italian white varieties that don’t need oak. But with red wines and chardonnay oak adds another dimension. Oak has been used as a storage and transportation vessel for wine for two thousand years. It is fit for purpose, being a watertight wood and strong material for coopers to shape into barrels. The discovery that this storage container actually improved and added complexity to the flavour of wine was a windfall. The cocktail of compounds responsible for these flavours include ellagitannins, phenolic aldehydes and volatile…

WHEN you get a winery owner that has acute business acumen and a passion for wine you have a recipe for success. Add to that the ingredient of an extended family for support you have a business model that will endure for multi-generations. That is the case with Sanguine Estate and the Hunter family. After establishing his own successful international business in the 90’s Tony was able to pursue his passion in wine and love of the Heathcote region of Victoria. “I always loved Heathcote Shiraz and the wines from Jasper Hill and Seppelts Mount Ida and when a property became available between these two vineyards I snapped up the opportunity of purchasing it,” Tony recalls. The Hunter’s story is a classic Australian family tale. Once Tony and his wife…

372 TASTED 244 AWARDED SHIRAZ UNDER $15 7 TASTED 4 AWARDED “What can you expect at this price?” asked one judge. “At their best these should be clean, fresh and simple which the better ones were,” said another. Tudor Central Victoria Shiraz 2019 ⋆⋆⋆⋆ 95pts Very attractive spicy plum nose with a floral hint of violets. Good length and persistence of fruit flavours with generous oak. $12.99 Dee Vine Estate The Drover Riverina Shiraz 2020 ⋆⋆⋆ 90pts Lifted briary/berry bouquet with vanilla notes and a soft “tutti-frutti-like” palate. $4.99 Dee Vine Estate Nericon Riverina Shiraz 2019 ⋆⋆⋆ 91pts Super ripe peppery cherry fragrances with spicy fruit flavours and assertive tannins. $11.99 Massoni El Nino Estate Grown Pyrenees Shiraz 2017 ⋆⋆⋆ 90pts Mature chocolaty/earthy nose with a complex briary fruit palate.…

Adam Carnaby Senior Winemaker for Seppelt. Has previously worked in hospitality management at Melbourne’s Hilton Hotel. Completed a bachelor degree in wine science at Charles Sturt University and bachelor of applied science at RMIT. Formerly winemaker for Yering Station and Xanadu. Susan Mickan Winemaker. Has worked 34 vintages including across Australia, New Zealand, China, Spain. Some wineries including Kirrihill, Pernod Ricard, Penfolds, Helan Mountain (China) and Cambo Viego. Judged at numerous wine shows around Australia. Alex MacClelland Chief winemaker at Bethany Wines. Formerly winemaker at Hemera Estate, Schild Estate and Boar’s Rock. Has vintaged in Burgundy, Rhone Valley and Marlborough. Associate judge at the Inland wine show, Barossa wine show and AWAC.…

43 TASTED 41 AWARDED SEMILLON & BLENDS $20-$30 16 TASTED 16 AWARDED Very consistent, high quality, class showing excellent varietal fruit and great winemaking skills. Some excellent quality deals here. McGuigan Bin 9000 Hunter Valley Semillon 2018 ⋆⋆⋆⋆⋆ 98pts Lovely toasty development on the nose leaps out of the glass with very pleasant toasty/lemony/grassy flavours and great acid backbone. “A joy to drink!” $25 Midnight’s Promise Hunter Semillon 2014 ⋆⋆⋆⋆⋆ 98pts Excellent toasty marmalade aged semillon nose. Very tight acidity holding the toasty developing palate nicely together. Drinking well now. $20 Midnight’s Promise Hunter Semillon 2013 ⋆⋆⋆⋆⋆ 98pts A very inviting wine; rich and rounded yet still focused and elegant. Nicely maturing toasty/floral/citrus characters and, “Acid is where it should be!” $20 Hollydene Estate Upper Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ⋆⋆⋆⋆…

89 TASTED 84 AWARDED SPARKLING 5 TASTED 5 AWARDED A solid consistent class of sparklings offering value for money. Hoggies Coonawarra Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV ⋆⋆⋆⋆ 95pts Elegant toasty honeyed nose with light fruit nuances and a soft, developing, full flavoured palate with crisp line of acid. $15 Syn Rouge Coonawarra Sparkling Shiraz NV ⋆⋆⋆⋆ 95pts Peppery plum and blackberry fragrances with minty notes. Bright youthful palate dense with ripe sweet fruit flavours. $21 Maison Blue Limestone Coast Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ⋆⋆⋆ 1/2 93pts Rich dark and intense with a minty dark berry bouquet and bright brambly fruit flavours. Good tannins. $33 Syn Coonawarra Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV ⋆⋆⋆ 1/2 92pts Fresh, simple and youthful citrussy nose with a very floral palate showing delicate hints of pears…

NEW RELEASES Capital Wines Phone: 02 6230 2022 Email: info@capitalwines.com.au Web: www.capitalwines.com.au Cumulus Vineyards Phone: 1800 233 580 Email: sales@cumuluswines.com.au Web: www.cumulusvineyards.com.au Eight at The Gate Phone: 0400 843 126 Email: admin@eightatthegate.com.au Web: www.eightatthegate.com.au/ Foggo Wines Phone: 08 8323 0131 Email: info@foggowines.com.au Web: www.foggowines.com.au Hemera Estate Phone: 08 8524 4033 Email: jasonb@hemeraestate.com.au Web: www.hemeraestate.com.au Monteperle Wines Phone: 0415 912 878 Email: ching.ling@monteperle.com.au Web: www.monteperle.com.au Shingleback Wine Phone: 08 8323 9919 Email: tastingroom@shingleback.com.au Web: www.shingleback.com.au Singlefile Wines Pty Ltd Phone: 0409 108 166 Email: theteam@singlefilewines.com Web: www.singlefilewines.com NZ RECENT RELEASES Folding Hill Wine Company NZ Phone: +64 3 489 6791 Email: wine@foldinghill.co.nz Web: www.foldinghill.co.nz Obsidian Wines NZ Phone: +64 9 372 6100 Email: office@obsidian.co.nz Web: www.obsidian.co.nz SOUTH ISLAND (NEW ZEALAND) Rockburn Wines Ltd NZ Phone: +64 3 445 0555 Email: winery@rockburn.co.nz Web:…

IT’S A (SMALL) WRAP THE grapes are in and now the numbers are too – New Zealand’s 2021 harvest tipped the scales at 370,000 tonnes, a 19% decrease on vintage 2020. For context, the previous three harvests clocked in at 457,000, 419,000 and 413,000 tonnes, New Zealand’s 10 year average of grapes crushed is 383,000 tonnes, and net productive hectares increasing 5,500ha over this period, with the vast majority plantings in Marlborough. Marlborough experienced the smallest harvest since 2015, with crops down 21%, having Central Otago seemingly buck the trend, harvesting 21% more grapes than the previous year, though this can be mostly attributed to tonnages returning to the norm after a very reduced 2020 harvest. The 2021 harvest’s shortfall is largely the result of cool spring weather and late…

I RE-KINDLED my affection for Darwin a few years ago and have returned several times since. If I need any further incentive to book a trip, I watch Jimmy Shu’s Taste of the Territory on SBS On Demand. The eight-episode series is a showcase of the NT’s culinary treats from Darwin’s fresh produce markets and multicultural restaurants to bush tucker in Arnhem Land. People from more than 50 nationalities live in Darwin and its surrounds and one of the prime ways they rubber-stamp their diversity is through their food and drink. One of the best places to confirm that the Territory is just as trend-conscious as the southern states is to drop by for a drink at Charlie’s of Darwin. Since opening its doors early last year as the city’s…

FOR a name that evokes singularity, it’s hard to beat One Tree Hill. Founded in the 1850s, One Tree Hill is a small town with a population of just over 1000 set in a landscape of paddocks, rolling hills and gums just beyond the edge of Adelaide’s north-eastern suburban sprawl. The locale is also home to a singular winery, Tenafeate Creek Wines (TCW). A five-minute drive north of One Tree Hill and 35 kilometres from the Adelaide GPO, Tenafeate Creek is not situated in any recognised wine region, although it sits at the junction of no less than three: away to the west is the Angas Plains district of the Adelaide Plains GI; a few kilometres to the east is the northern end of the Adelaide Hills region; to the…

THE STATS that count NUMBER TASTED: 372 NUMBER AWARDED: 244 % awarded: 66% NUMBER OF FIVE STARS (Gold Award): 37 % awarded: 10% NUMBER OF FOUR & HALF STARS (High Silver Award): 37 % awarded: 10% NUMBER OF FOUR STARS (Silver Award): 56 % awarded: 15% NUMBER OF THREE & HALF STARS (High Bronze Award): 45 % awarded: 12% NUMBER OF THREE STARS (Bronze Award): 69 % awarded: 19% Under $15 Tudor Central Victoria Shiraz 2019 ⋆⋆⋆⋆ $12.99 $15-$20 Taylors Special Release Clare Shiraz 2019 ⋆⋆⋆⋆ 1/2 $15 $20-$25 Knappstein Clare Valley Shiraz 2019 ⋆⋆⋆⋆⋆ $22 $45-$50 Wolf Blass Grey Label McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019 ⋆⋆⋆⋆ 1/2 $45 $50-$60 Knappstein The Mayors Vineyard Clare Valley Shiraz 2019 ⋆⋆⋆⋆⋆ $53 $60-$70 Reillys ‘Old Vine’ Stolen Block Clare Valley Shiraz 2016 ⋆⋆⋆⋆⋆…

Shane Harris Winemaker for Wines by Geoff Hardy including, K1 and Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy Wines. Has also completed vintages in Queensland and Victoria. Completed the AWRI advanced sensory course and has associate judged at McLaren Vale Wine Show. Winestate Winemaker of the Year in 2009, 2019 & 2020. Susan Mickan Winemaker. Has worked 34 vintages including across Australia, New Zealand, China, Spain. Some wineries including Kirrihill, Pernod Ricard, Penfolds, Helan Mountain (China) and Cambo Viego. Judged at numerous wine shows around Australia. Adam Clay Penfolds winemaker in the Barossa Valley. Has completed vintages at Marchesi de Frescobaldi in Chianti and Pellegrin in California. Judge at the Alternative Varieties show Cairns, Queensland Wine Awards and Clare Valley wine show.…

146 TASTED 96 AWARDED SPARKLING 5 TASTED 4 AWARDED A small consistent class of light and fresh sparklings aimed at the popular easy drinking market. Artwine Prosecco Bianca Clare Valley Prosecco 2021 ⋆⋆⋆⋆ 94pts Super, clean, bright and refreshing style with an excellent fine bead and aromas and flavours of pears and apple blossom. $25 Gapsted Wines Limited Release Pinot Grigio Rose King Valley Sparkling Rosé NV ⋆⋆⋆ 91pts Floral strawberry bouquet and simple bright fruit flavours. Nice off-dry drinking. $25 Gapsted Wines High Country King Valley Prosecco NV ⋆⋆⋆ 90pts Bright green colour, a fine bead, green apple aromas and flavours and crisp acidity. $20 Trentham Estate The Family Frizzante Maestri 2021 ⋆⋆⋆ 90pts A luscious mix of chocolate and sweet black berries with “clever” tannins to match. $18…

Stephen Brown Winemaker for Cape Jaffa Wines. Former Winemaker and Viticulturist for Padthaway Estates Sparkling Winemakers. Has vintaged in Champagne and has completed Masters of Winemaking in Burgundy. Judged in South Africa, New Zealand, France and Australia. Amy Blackburn Winemaker for Brand’s Laira for the past 15 years. Has judged at the Limestone Coast wine show. Has completed the AWAC course in 2018. Has also vintaged in Napa Valley and in the Hunter Valley at Mount Pleasant winery. Rob Ruediger Wine consultant. Formerly senior production winemaker at Accolade Wines (Hardy Wine Company) involving all varieties and styles. Wine judge at Brisbane wine show.…

Stephen Brown Winemaker for Cape Jaffa Wines. Former Winemaker and Viticulturist for Padthaway Estates Sparkling Winemakers. Has vintaged in Champagne and has completed Masters of Winemaking in Burgundy. Judged in South Africa, New Zealand, France and Australia. Amy Blackburn Winemaker for Brand’s Laira for the past 15 years. Has judged at the Limestone Coast wine show. Has completed the AWAC course in 2018. Has also vintaged in Napa Valley and in the Hunter Valley at Mount Pleasant winery. Rob Ruediger Wine consultant. Formerly senior production winemaker at Accolade Wines (Hardy Wine Company) involving all varieties and styles. Wine judge at Brisbane wine show.…

160 TASTED 139 AWARDED One of our highest strike rates for new releases, showing that wineries are really putting their good wines forward. It is good news if you are looking for your next "house wine" or special occasion wine, or just a wine that takes your fancy. In this tasting we had an excellent medal tally across the board, from whites to reds, with the only mixed results coming from the pinot gris/grigio flight. Note: a wine is a new release if we haven’t seen it before, even if it is a much older vintage, as seen with some wines in this tasting. SPARKLING 11 TASTED 11 AWARDED Very consistent, good quality flight. A wide range of vintages and styles with the whites showing good palate depth and the…