Innholdsfortegnelse for July - August 2021 i Winestate Magazine

WELL, THINGS ARE CERTAINLY CHANGING IN THIS EVER-ADAPTING COVID AFFLICTED WORLD and as such we have felt that we need to change along with it. For a start, we have for a long time been urged to change to a points-based system by some in the trade and by some consumers. As you may be aware this is a system developed by legendary American wine critic Robert Parker, who I came across back in 1982 when I launched the US Wine & Spirit magazine. He was genuinely respected as not being a critic who “runs with the hares and hunts with the hounds”. In other words, not selling or using his name or image to promote the same wines that he critiqued, which can be fraught with issues. This is…

METEOROLOGICAL spring in the northern hemisphere is March, April and May. In five of the last six years, Europe has been hit by spring frosts, of varying extent and damage. This seems counter-intuitive in the glare of climate warming claims. The frosts in European spring 2021 have been devastating. Budburst started early as is becoming rather familiar in the climate change era, with early warmth bringing forward growth. Then a devastating frost in the beginning days of April 2021 caused widespread damage in Europe, but especially France, as temperatures dropped down to -6ºC in some areas, evoking memories of, and comparisons with, the extensive frost damage of 1991, 1997, and 2017. The pervasive chill ravaged other crops too, including apples, stone fruits and other arable crops. In Italy, many regions…

There are around 2,500 wineries in Australia, so it takes something special and/or unique to make a winery stand out from the crowd. Such a winery is Paulmara Estates. Celebrating 21 years this year, Paulmara Estates is the amalgamation of Paul and Mara Georgiadis’ viticultural skills into a thriving family business. Having both been born and bred into viticultural families, it was almost inevitable that they would end up growing premium quality grapes. Born in Sonoma County California to a father who is an internationally renowned expert and professor of viticulture, Mara Thomas grew up around vines and gained invaluable experience working in various roles for the largest grapevine nursery in the northern hemisphere. After achieving her Agribusiness degree, she gained further experience working in cellar door sales and marketing…

244 TASTED 137 AWARDED This is one of our favourite judgings of the year involving king cabernet sauvignon and its siblings; merlot, malbec, cabernet franc and petite verdot, often described as bordeaux blends. (Note the lower case “b” in bordeaux because we are not referring to Bordeaux in France, just the varieties that are well known from there). Most would argue that cabernet plays the lead role and the other varieties are the players, but there are exceptions as we sometimes see. Generally however the artist in the winemaker likes to see a blend of the varieties and in its best form it can be magical. MERLOT & BLENDS 16 TASTED 8 AWARDED Mixed results “A solid group with the better wines showing good colour with great complexity, concentration and…

47 TASTED 47 RECOMMENDED Hawke’s Bay is New Zealand’s second-largest wine-growing region, with 12% of the country’s total area of bearing vines. Chardonnay and claret-style reds (cabernet sauvignon and merlot-based) have been the traditional successes, joined more recently by syrah, but the tasting also unearthed highly impressive examples of barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc, viognier, gewürztraminer and pinot gris. Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in export markets are shown as (A) Australia; (UK) and (US). CHARDONNAY 9 TASTED 9 RECOMMENDED An outstanding class, reflecting Hawke’s Bay’s long-established ability to produce fragrant, full-bodied, ripely flavoured wines, which retain elegance and have the ability to mature gracefully for several years. Reflecting the benefits of a warm summer and dry autumn, 2019 is rightly viewed as a top vintage. Askerne The…

64 TASTED 50 AWARDED With the world going “dry” these two classes of sweet whites and fortifieds, it could be argued, are greatly under presented these days in any selection of fine wines. However, for the aficionado or the newcomer, these offer great examples of what can be achieved for the dessert spectrum, away from the usual dry whites and dry reds. Often it is just a case of letting the buyer try some of these great examples to have them on board. LATE HARVEST 3 TASTED 2 AWARDED A couple of excellent examples showing how well sauvignon blanc works as a sweet wine. Konrad Marlborough Late Harvest Riesling Sauvignon Blanc NV ★★★★H 98pts Intense aromas of citrus marmalade with aged honey notes and a lusciously flavoursome palate that’s a…

ORGANIC INDUSTRIES AUSTRALIA (OIA) BEST WINE OF SHOW Gemtree Wines Obsidian McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 SX CERTIFIED AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND ORGANIC OR BIODYNAMIC AWARD Gemtree Wines Obsidian McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 “We are biodynamic farmers because we know it is better for our soil, vineyards, employees and the flavour of our fruit,” says Owner and Winemaker of Gemtree, Mike Brown. “Our organic and biodynamic credentials have roots as deep as our decades-old vines because we firmly believe it is our responsibility to improve the land for future generations. Healthy soils lead to a healthy ecosystem and that rewards both us and you with the gems from which we craft our fine wines.” The Obsidian Shiraz 2019 – Technical Details “This shiraz is hand crafted, shows the typicity of our…

The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic wines as selected by highest judges scores are: 1. Laudum Roble Monastrell Syrah 2019 ★★★★1/2 96pts (CAECV) 2. Bodegas Neleman 30 Wishes ECCV Valencia Spain Tempranillo 2019 ★★★★ 94pts (Organic/CAECV) 3. Bodega Cuatro Rayas Cuatro Rayas Organic Collection DO Rueda Spain Verdejo 2020 ★★★★ 94pts (CAECyL) 4. Bodega Cuatro Rayas Nave Sur Organic DO Rueda Spain Tempranillo 2019 ★★★★ 94pts (CAECyL) 5. Bodega Cuatro Rayas Green & Social DO Rueda Spain Verdejo 2020 ★★★1/2 93pts (CAECyL) 6. Bodegas Neleman Signature White D.O Valencia Spain White Blend 2019 ★★★ 91pts (Organic/CAECV) 7. Laudum Nature Red Eco Tempranillo Blend 2019 ★★★ 91pts (CAECV) 8. Bodegas Corral Vine Roots Red Graciano D.O.CA. Rioja Graciano 2018 ★★★ 90Pts (Organic EU) 9. Cascina Vèngore Campolungo Barbera D'Asti DOCG Italy…

134 TASTED 82 AWARDED With vintage finishing at the time of judging these new releases it is always a tough time to get these wines across the line. It is either too early for the new vintage wines and in that "in between" period of neither freshness nor secondary complexity stages. Having said all that there are still gems to find and lots of good drinking! It is hard to go past the consistency of shiraz, but in this tasting others that performed well are cabernets, grenache and also tempranillo with one fine old museum riesling. SPARKLING 3 TASTED 2 AWARDED A couple of nice examples of style. Redbank Wines Victoria Prosecco Rosé 2020 ★★★1/2 92pts Pale pink, zesty, fruit driven style with subtle aromas and flavours and balancing acidity.…

TAKE THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED AND DISCOVER A HIDDEN GEM, WHICHER RIDGE WINES. Whicher Ridge is the result of 10 years of work by the dynamic duo of Neil and Cathy Howard, a vigneron and winemaker couple with a combined 50 years of grape growing and winemaking experience between them. The couple specialise in making small batch, single vineyard wines which are full of varietal and terroir specific flavours, from vines grown in the ancient soils of three of Australia’s most isolated wine regions in the south west of Western Australia. For those unable to visit the Cellar Door in person, Whicher Ridge has created wine tasting kits with a selection of samples of their single vineyard wines. The Kits are delivered direct to you with free shipping and a…

AS a journalist who writes about trends across a range of subjects, I have always been cautious about joining media pile-ons spruiking the next big thing. In the majority of cases, articles tracking upsurges invariably omit to mention the dominant market players. Take online sales. If you believed all the standalone hype about soaring e-commerce revenues, you would think that Australians had given up going to the shops. Far from it. In the calendar year 2020, lockdowns notwithstanding, Westfield shopping centres clocked up 450 million customer visits and a spend of $22 billion. Online sales are climbing fast, but 90 per cent of Australia’s annual retail revenues of $340 billion still come from bricks-and-mortar stores. There’s been a lot of clickbait headlines about the popularity of low alcohol beer lately.…

A RED wine that suits all occasions at the dinner table must be smooth, velvety and supple on the palate. Not too heavy, not too alcoholic, not too jammy but pleasantly fruity and not overpowering. It should be an all-rounder, preferably medium bodied. So, what fits the bill? Well, I’d recommend a gamay or another grape that has undergone some sort of carbonic maceration. This technique, applied at the start of the winemaking process, was once pigeonholed to only Beaujolais in France, but now it is a primary colour in a winemakers ‘palette’. In one version or another, carbonic maceration can be found in the production of Australian shiraz, grenache, pinot noir and a swathe of other red wines. Carbonic maceration or maceration carbonique is a complex intracellular fermentation of…

THE philosophy is simple enough, four words really: bang for your buck. It has been the catchcry of Murray Darling winery Trentham Estate since day one and there is no plan to change it. When you’re on a good thing… Located at Trentham Cliffs, about 15 minutes north-east of Mildura, the Trentham winery and cellar door sits on a picturesque bend of the Murray River and has been a popular spot for locals for many years. There is a lot to like there – wine tasting, restaurant, a relaxed vibe and panoramic views of the river-but in amongst all that, bang for your buck sits unashamedly front and centre alongside sheer tasting consistency. Consider this: at a time when some Australian wines are hitting stratospheric prices, and so many other…

55 TASTED 54 RECOMMENDED There’s something for everyone in the latest batch of new releases, with outstanding examples of chardonnay, riesling, muscat, gewürztraminer, sparkling wine and pinot noir. The tasting also featured impressive pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc, dessert wine and syrah. If your only experience of New Zealand wine is Marlborough sauvignon blanc, try some of these beauties. Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). CHARDONNAY 13 TASTED 12 RECOMMENDED Chardonnay thrives in the relative warmth of the middle and upper North Island regions, yielding weighty wines with ripe stonefruit flavours, rich and smooth. Those from the Wairarapa and South Island regions offer a style contrast, possessing a cool-climate vigour, intensity and vibrancy. Palliser Estate…

218 TASTED 122 AWARDED Another most enjoyable judging of organic and biodynamic wines. That's not to say that our judges are easy or preferential when judging these wines. Quite the contrary in fact! As you can see in the results there is no quarter given and entrants have to earn their stripes, as are all wines that are entered into Winestate judgings. What we do see overall is a heightened level of fruit quality, as expected, but sometimes let down by no intervention of natural preservatives or too much reliance on wild yeast natural fermentations where unwanted characters can occur if not careful. The judges tended to agree that "fresh is best" when buying organic or biodynamic wines. Great to see more and more wines here to choose from. SPARKLING…

The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic wines as selected by highest judges scores are: 1. MILLESIME BIO INTERNATIONAL AWARD FOR BEST ORGANIC OR BIODYNAMIC WINE Famille Amirault-Grosbois Le Bourg Loire Valley - AOP Chinon France Cabernet Franc 2020 1/2 96pts (Ecocert, Demeter) 2. Domaine Changarnier Monthelie 1er Cru Rouge "Les Clous" Burgundy France Pinot Noir 2019 ★★★★1/2 96pts (Organic EU) 3. Domaine De Mayol Tentations Vallee Du Rhone Luberon France Rouge 2020 ★★★★1/2 96pts (Qualite France Bureau Veritas) 4. Château Mourgues du Grès Galets Rouges Costieres De Nimes France Red Blend 2019 ★★★★ 94pts (EcoCert) 5. Domaine Bassac Cuvee XVIII Rouge Cotes Du Thongue Syrah 2018 ★★★★ 94pts (Ecocert) 6. Domaine De Mayol Oplezir Vallee Du Rhone Luberon France Rosé 2020 ★★★★ 94pts (Qualite France Bureau Veritas) 7. Domaine Des…

COVID - 19 ALERT STATUS *Normally we would have a series of trade and consumer tastings scheduled across Australia at major function venues but with the current social distancing and constantly changing event rules in place this is clearly impossible. Although many events have been fortunate enough to resume in limited capacities, due to the nature of our events and the number of wines, people and the ability to self-pour at our public tastings it is a logistical nightmare with unfortunately too many liabilities to proceed at this time. It seems pointless to flag future possibilities at this stage when we don’t know when things will return to normal or rules will be relaxed. We regret not being able to give you more information, particularly to those sponsors, our valued…

MOTHER NATURE KIND BUT NOT GENEROUS DURING VINTAGE ANYONE involved in winegrowing knows producers have to play the hand they’re dealt each harvest. Last year Mother Nature was kind enough but the escalating coronavirus pandemic delivered a uniquely new set of challenges. This year, Mother Nature again dealt a benevolent hand but she did not deal a particularly generous one. It’s no secret that volumes are down in most regions, some significantly so, mainly a result of unsettled spring weather and frosts. In Marlborough, which provides 75% of New Zealand’s harvest and the world’s second largest crop of sauvignon blanc, it’s estimated that yields were down by around 30%. Given 2020 was also a relatively light vintage with many wines already sold, the supply/demand juggle will be trickier than ever.…

CANBERRA is more accessible than ever for Sydneysiders. The massive WestConnex road system begins at the back of Newtown on the edge of the CBD and a drive to the nation's capital now takes under three hours. It's a great incentive for more frequent visits as Canberra is constantly changing with new cafes, restaurants, hotels and some of the finest new buildings in the country. Canberra's three cool climate wine regions are a major magnet for tourists. On a recent visit, we decided to focus on the Lake George area, including Bungendore and Wamboin in NSW. First stop the much-lauded Lark Hill Biodynamic Winery. Founded in 1978 by Sue and Dave Carpenter, the property was certified biodynamic in 2006. Four grape varieties are planted to the original vineyard - riesling,…

110 TASTED 79 AWARDED After many years of experimenting the Hills are starting to hit their straps! With many different micro-climates in the same place and the tendency to like alternative varieties it is not surprising that this is so. Whilst it was thought that the region would highlight pinot noir what has emerged is the great result for chardonnays and even bright mid-weight shiraz wines and of course alternative varieties. Lots to look forward to here but look at the reviews rather than the reputation! SPARKLING 3 TASTED 2 AWARDED A couple of worthy Aussie sparklings. d’Arenberg Pollyanna Polly Adelaide Hills Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV ★★★ 91pts Mild strawberry bouquet with yeasty notes and a clean fresh and fruity palate. $35 Barristers Block Poetic Justice Adelaide Hills Sparkling…

57 TASTED 44 AWARDED These wines offer some amazing opportunities for great value wines for everyday drinking, whether at home or your on-premise outlet. Exciting alternative varieties also do exceptionally well in these high volume warm climates as do sweet whites and fortifieds where you will have to pay a little extra for some truly superb wines! SPARKLING 3 TASTED 2 AWARDED A couple of nicely managed creamy, sparkling, fruit driven wines. Grower’s Gate South Australia Brut Cuvee NV ★★★★ 94pts A fine bead, pleasant citrus aromas and a clean and refreshing palate with some sweetness and good acidity. $14.95 Buller Wines RLB Swan Hill Sparkling Rosé 2020 ★★★ 90pts Fragrances of strawberries and cream with plenty of strawberry-like flavours. $17 OTHER WHITES 6 TASTED 4 AWARDED A consistent group…

WELCOME to our annual Winestate Organic & Biodynamic wine show awards. This year with additional entries from Europe we have expanded the title to include “International” in the name as we welcome more wines from France, Italy and Spain to join us in this fascinating journey. With the help of our European partners Millesime Bio, who are the world’s biggest promoter of Organic wines we are proud to be part of the push for cleaner, greener fruit and for less or no chemicals in the winemaking phase. This year we also welcome (OIA) Organic Industries Australia as the overall sponsor of our major trophy for Best Wine of Show. OIA are the peak industry Organic Body reporting to the Commonwealth government. We are delighted to have them on board. Our…

The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic wines as selected by highest judges scores are: ORGANIC INDUSTRIES AUSTRALIA (OIA) BEST WINE IN SHOW AWARD SX CERTIFIED AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND AWARD 1. Gemtree Wines Obsidian McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 98pts (ACO) 2. Stormflower Vineyard Single Vineyard Margaret River Wilyabrup Chardonnay 2020 ★★★★H 98pts (SXC) 3. d'Arenberg The Money Spider McLaren Vale Roussanne 2020 ★★★★H 98pts (NASAA) 4. Tamburlaine Organic Wines Reserve Hunter Semillon 2013 ★★★★H 98pts (SXC) 5. Z Wine [HILDER] Ancestor Vine Barossa Valley Mataro 2020 ★★★★1/2 97pts (ACO) 6. Kalleske Old Vine Barossa Valley Grenache 2019 ★★★★1/2 96pts (SXC) 7. Zonte's Footstep Nature's Crux Fleurieu Shiraz 2020 ★★★★1/2 96pts (ACO) 8. Gemtree Wines Uncut McLaren Flat Shiraz 2019 ★★★★1/2 95pts (ACO) 9. Grancari Estate Greta's McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019…

The Top Ten Organic & Biodynamic wines as selected by highest judges scores are: 1. Konrad Dry Marlborough Riesling 2017 ★★★★1/2 97pts (Biogro NZ) 2. Villa Maria Earth Garden Hawkes Bay, NZ Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ★★★★1/2 96pts (BioGro NZ) 3. Stoneleigh Organic Marlborough Chardonnay 2020 ★★★★ 94pts (Biogro NZ) 4. Giesen Organic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ★★★★ 94pts (BioGro NZ) 5. Clos Henri Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ★★★★ 94pts (BioGro NZ) 6. Ara Resolute Marlborough Pinot Noir 2017 ★★★1/2 93pts (BioGro NZ) 7. Greystone North Canterbury Pinot Gris 2020 ★★★1/2 92pts (Biogro NZ) 8. Konrad Organic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ★★★1/2 92pts (BioGro NZ) 9. Giesen Organic Marlborough Pinot Noir 2019 ★★★1/2 92pts (BioGro NZ) 10. Greystone Thomas Brothers North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2018 ★★★ 91pts (Biogro NZ)…

Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing comprises the best wines currently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. TO QUALIFY 1 Wines must have first been recommended in Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc.…

ADELAIDE HILLS Agnew Wines Pty Ltd Phone: 02 4993 3600 Email: RRaper@agnewwines.com.au Web: www.agnewwines.com.au Nova Vita Wines Phone: 08 8356 0454 Email: sales@novavitawines.com.au Web: www.novavitawines.com.au BEST BUYS Berton Vineyards Phone: 02 6968 1600 Email: wine@bertonvineyards.com.au Web: www.bertonvineyards.com.au Litharian Wines (Global Hawk Pty Ltd) Phone: 0411 285 990 Email: melanie@litharianwines.com.au Web: www.litharianwines.com.au CABERNET & CABERNET BLENDS Anvers Wines Phone: 08 7079 8691 Email: info@anvers.com.au Web: www.anvers.com.au Brash Vineyard Phone: 0427 042 767 Email: anne_chris@brashvineyard.com.au Web: www.brashvineyard.com.au Deakin Brothers Wines Coonawarra (Five Star Cellar Pty Ltd) Phone: 0430 102 314 Email: info@deakinbrothers.com.au Web: www.deakinbrothers.com.au Gralyn Estate Phone: 08 9755 6245 Email: info@gralyn.com.au Web: www.gralyn.com.au Grandeur Wellington Phone: 08 8383 0866 Email: peter@gwellington.com.au Web: www.grandeurwellington.com.au Hay Shed Hill/Pitchfork Phone: 08 9755 6046 Email: info@hayshedhill.com.au Web: www.hayshedhill.com.au Hemera Estate Phone: 08 8524 4033 Email:…