Innholdsfortegnelse for July 31, 2024 i Wine Spectator

The NBA is embarking on a partnership with California’s Jackson Family Wines, establishing Kendall-Jackson as the official wine of the NBA and K-J’s sibling wine La Crema as the official wine of the WNBA. These affiliations will also extend to Team USA for the 2024 Paris Olympics. “This is exactly what the wine industry needs,” JFW co-proprietor Chris Jackson told Wine Spectator. “The NBA is the hottest sports franchise … [and] when they celebrate, they do it with wine.” The list of wine-loving basketball stars grows seemingly by the day, and many current and former NBA pros have created their own wine labels and even acquired their own vineyards. An official league wine was an obvious slam dunk. The WNBA has a similarly growing wine culture. WNBA champion and two-time…

Sammy “The Red Rocker” Hagar has been one of rock music’s most prolific artists and an inductee into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, with 25 platinum albums and a Grammy. He is perhaps best known for his time as the lead singer of the iconic rock band Van Halen, as well as Montrose, Chickenfoot and The Circle. Earlier this year Hagar, 76, was awarded a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, and he continues to perform, touring this summer along with longtime bandmates Michael Anthony, Joe Satriani and Jason Bonham in The Best of All Worlds Tour. A lover of wine, food and spirits, he founded Cabo Wabo Tequila in 1996 (selling the brand in 2010). Hagar now owns a portfolio of restaurants, spirits and beer embracing…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 97 OCCIDENTAL Pinot Noir West Sonoma Coast Running Fence Vineyard Cuvee Catherine 2021 $125 CALIFORNIA This stunning red offers a pure display of mulberry, damson plum and cherry puree flavors, with black tea, dried bergamot, rose petal and singed anise notes adding a glistening edge to the well-cut finish. COLLECTIBLE 95 BODEGAS MARQUES DE MURRIETA Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2012 $280 SPAIN This sophisticated red features rich flavors of plum compote and dried cherry and raspberry accented by espresso, anise, herbs and earth. Shows generosity as well as a sense of finesse. SMART BUY 91 JOSEP MARIA RAVENTOS I BLANC Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Vino Espumoso 2022 $25 SPAIN This vibrant sparkler is sleek and minerally, with delicate notes of poached pear, persimmon, lemon curd,…

Gary Morisoli and I stare at two lignified shoots from last year’s growing season protruding from a vine in a row of some of his oldest Cabernet Sauvignon, planted in 1994. I’ve moved my pruning shears back and forth between the two, trying to decide which one to remove and which one to prune back to generate growth for the coming year. Morisoli, 70, has been giving me detailed instructions as he puts the welfare of a row of his vines in my hands. Now he’s left a decision to me, and it’s admittedly a little nerve-racking. Eventually I go for it, snipping one off at its base and then trimming the other. “And that’s the one I would’ve chosen,” he says. Whew. “That was a 50-50. There is no…

ARGENTINA Malbec 92 Pascual Toso Malbec Mendoza Alta Barrancas Vineyards 2021 $50 An aromatically alluring version, with notes of dried violet, truffle and milk chocolate leading to a smooth-textured core of ripe plum and cherry tart flavors. Hints of baking spices and vanilla bean fold in and linger on the finish around suave tannins. Drink now through 2036. 4,166 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—A.R. 91 Bodegas Fabre Malbec Gualtallary Alta-Yari Reserva 2022 $27 Slightly austere at first, this red grows on you, beginning with notes of eucalyptus and floral, marinated olive. Reveals fleshy plum and cherry flavors, with firm acidity lifting everything and carrying it all onto the finish around polished tannins. Drink now through 2036. 2,500 cases made, 450 cases imported.—A.R. 91 Kaiken Malbec Mendoza Estate 2021 $15 See…

Today I interviewed Christian Moueix, a most interesting wine personality with deep roots in both Bordeaux and Napa Valley. You will be able to read his insights and opinions in our Nov. 15 issue, along with our annual California Cabernet report. After the interview, we enjoyed lunch together. That lunch, including the historic wines we opened with it, is a story unto itself. Moueix is the man behind Napa’s Dominus Estate, whose 2018 vintage we declared Wine of the Year for 2021. He is also the owner of the iconic Napanook Vineyard in Yountville, at one time a grape source for the famed Inglenook winery, founded in 1879. So, I thought it would be fun to taste a few extremely rare Napa Cabernets. I decided to open a 1941 Inglenook…

Eleanor Coppola Eleanor “Ellie” Coppola died April 12 at the age of 87 in her home in Rutherford, Calif. Eleanor was an artist, author and film director. Together with her husband of 61 years, filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola, she helped restore Napa’s legendary Inglenook winery. In 1975, the Coppolas were searching for a vacation cottage in Napa Valley and ended up purchasing part of the historic Inglenook estate, founded in 1879. The Coppolas spent decades reuniting the original vineyards and acquired the former winery in 1995. In 2011, they purchased the Inglenook trademark, reuniting the name with the estate. Wine also inspired her filmmaking. In 2017, she said, “There’s so many films out there that cover such dark subjects that I just wanted a film that you can go in…

The time is long past when the accepted wisdom was that red wines—and reds only—could find rewarding pairings with cheeses. Ditto the era when California Chardonnays were often hefty, buttery, oak bombs with nary a hint of the attractive fruity and floral notes they’re capable of offering. With these historical developments in mind, I recently tackled the challenge of discovering successful pairings for some of the Golden State’s iconic artisan cheeses with the modern, lighter, more nimble and versatile styles of its Chardonnays. It’s a challenge because, regardless of what might seem to work in theory, cheese and wine pairings are specific; they abide by few hard-and-fast rules, which is to say they can deliver as many clunkers as they do pleasant surprises. Yes, fresh chèvres can pair swimmingly with…

In 2011 I traveled to Tuscany for the first time, visiting vineyards and cellars in Bolgheri, Chianti Classico, Chianti Rufina, Montalcino and Montepulciano. It gave me a good overview of the territory and the investment and work done to improve viticulture, grape varieties and winemaking techniques over the past 30 years. A little over a decade later, I found a Tuscany still in transition, with renewed energy focused on improving the vineyards, clonal material and the overall quality of the wines. The evolution is the result of a deeper understanding of viticulture and technology, and a response to climate change. One strategy to mitigate warmer growing seasons is planting at higher elevations, above 1,650 feet in Chianti Classico and Montalcino. Castello di Volapaia, whose vineyards already occupy altitudes up to…

Tequila Old Fashioned 2 ounces extra añejo tequila3 dashes Angostura bitters1 teaspoon maraschino cherry juice Stir together bitters and cherry juice in an Old Fashioned glass. Stir in tequila, add ice and garnish with a maraschino cherry anti gold flakes (optional). Frida y Diego 3 slices cucumber3 mint leavesPinch salt2 ounces blanco tequila (Amatiteña preferred)1 ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice½ ounce simple syrup Muddle the first three ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Add the remaining ingredients and shake with ice. Strain into a Martini glass and garnish with mint. Perfect Cadillac Margarita 2 ounces 100% agave tequila blanco1 ½ ounces freshly squeezed lime juice½ ounce simple syrup1 ounce triple sec plus ½ ounce for the floater Shake all ingredients except the floater over ice and strain into a Margarita glass. Carefully…

CALIFORNIA Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 96 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Martha’s Vineyard 2018 $350 See Collectibles, page 97. 96 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2021 $195 See Collectibles, page 97. 95 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Benson Vale 2021 $500 Enticing, with a deep well of dark currant and blackberry fruit that’s very welcoming in feel, while dark licorice, loam, menthol and sweet tobacco details fill in liberally through the broad, deep finish. Very Oakville. Best from 2025 through 2042. 800 cases made.—J.M. 94 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Lot C-91 2019 $120 An alluring whiff of mint is followed by tightly wound damson plum and red currant coulis notes. Sleek and tight-grained on the finish, with cedar, savory and iron accents rippling through before leaving a sanguine echo.…

When the top names in Bordeaux began releasing their futures for the 2023 vintage at the end of April, the prices were impressive. Château Lafite Rothschild offered its futures for 31% less than the 2022 futures. Neighbor Mouton-Rothschild countered with a 36% price drop. Haut-Brion followed with a 39% reduction. Cheval Blanc trimmed by 20%. Super seconds Lynch-Bages and Léoville Las Cases also cut prices by more than 30%. It appears that many leading châteaus heard the message from négociants, retailers and consumers: The 2023 vintage, which is not a blockbuster (see James Molesworth’s impressions “Key Takeaways for 2023 Futures,” page 34), needed to be priced to sell. And most wineries (though not all) complied. So could this reenergize the futures game? How Did Bordeaux Get in This Mess? The…

Chardonnay Summer In addition to the outstanding California Chardonnays featured here, you’ll find well-priced examples from Oregon and South Africa that deserve your attention. All of them offer a range of expressive flavors perfect for warm-weather gatherings. THE CALLING Chardonnay Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch 2022 (93, $35) Papaya, grilled pineapple, mango, vanilla shortbread, candied ginger, orange blossoms; generous REATA Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2022 (92, $20) Succulent, creamy; Crenshaw melon, papaya, peach, wildflower honey, orange zest SOLÉNA Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2022 (92, $22) Lemon tart, pear, vanilla, honeysuckle, rich, graceful, polished BUITENVERWACHTING Chardonnay Constantia Bayten 2022 (91, $20) Cantaloupe, pear, honeysuckle, brioche, tangerine peel, grated ginger, green almond; lush, juicy CAMBRIA Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Katherine’s Vineyard 2022 (90, $22) Intense, harmonious; caramelized pineapple, pear, papaya, apricot, wildflower honey, brown…

In April I spent two weeks in Bordeaux visiting estates with track records in my formal blind tastings. I interviewed winemakers and tasted dozens of barrel samples, often alongside other vintages to help put the new one into better context. While there continues to be no reason for consumers to place orders for the wines now (see “2022 Bordeaux: Inflection Point,” July 31, 2023), there are some key takeaways from the vintage that merit interest. 2023 is a mixed bag. The growing season was among the wettest on record for Bordeaux. There also wasn’t much sun and warmth in June and July. There was an inordinate level of mildew pressure. Yields were high, too, as despite the mid-summer weather, the early spring flowering was copious. That combination—a heavy crop-set with…

Sommeliers across the country are keeping step with the rise of tequila. As beverage director for chef John Fraser’s restaurant group, Amy Racine has seen tequila’s broad appeal, seizing the attention of consumers from Los Angeles to New York, from Florida to Boston. “While it’s in the millennial world for interest, I see everybody drinking tequila—all age ranges, all demographics. It’s gained popularity in every corner,” says Racine. “When [guests] ask if there is anything they should try, it’s our job to know, and now that’s expanding even further into tequila.” For those who want to explore tequila, Racine suggests using the same learning tactics as for wine: investigating region by region, reading up on production methods and understanding the topography of the Jalisco terroir. Wine Spectator asked sommeliers at…

2021: Following a string of hot vintages, the 2021 growing season was a cold, wet outlier. Despite the challenges of rot and the struggle for ripeness, many vintners were thrilled with the results, calling it an outstanding vintage. Riesling fans who relish spine-tingling freshness and elegance will appreciate the racy Rieslings from this throwback year. Sweet and off-dry styles possess a lightning bolt of acidity to balance their fruitiness, while dry styles that may appear austere now should benefit from cellaring. Both styles should age remarkably well. 2022: By contrast, the hot and dry 2022 growing season represented a return to Germany’s new normal. Although the summer was the sunniest on record and extremely dry, causing many producers to worry that the year’s wines would ultimately be flabby and opulent,…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below). Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Spain, Italy, Champagne, South Africa Tim Fish California Zinfandel and Merlot, Oregon, Washington, U.S. sparkling wines Aaron Romano Argentina, Chile Kristen Bieler Rhône Valley and other France, Germany, Austria How We Do…

Fashion house Stella McCartney and Veuve Clicquot, two companies in the stable of French luxury group LVMH, have teamed up to create the first vegan leather made from Champagne grape waste. “I am so thrilled to be part of this first-of-its-kind partnership between a fashion house and a Champagne maison, connected by our shared passions for sustainability, craftsmanship and innovation,” said Stella McCartney, creative director of her namesake fashion house. “Using waste to circularly create a luxurious alternative to animal leather can be easily scaled and change the industry. You truly cannot tell the difference; this is a better way.” The collaboration’s first creations were released this year, including McCartney’s Frayme Veuve Clicquot bucket bags, Elyse Veuve Clicquot platform sandals and a bottle holder styled to fit a Veuve Clicquot…