Innholdsfortegnelse for November 30, 2023 i Wine Spectator

Visit WineSpectator.com/113023 to find links to all of the following resources. FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS TOP 100 WINES OF THE YEAR On Nov. 6, we begin unveiling the Top 10 Wines of 2023—complete with videos, tasting notes and more—culminating with the Wine of the Year on Nov. 10 and the complete Top 100 list on Nov. 13. Don’t miss the year’s most exciting wines! FOLLOW WINE SPECTATOR ON THREADS Join the conversation to discover new wines, get etiquette advice, share tips and more. Download the app and follow us @Wine_Spectator. WHAT AM I TASTING? Test your tasting skills in our mystery wine game. Every two weeks, we post a tasting note with clues from the color, aromas, flavors and structure. Then, you guess the variety, region, appellation and age of the…

New Jersey’s law barring wine shipments from retailers in other states is not going away any time soon. On Aug. 22, federal district court judge Julien Xavier Neals upheld the ban, dismissing the case Jean-Paul Weg LLC (doing business as the Wine Cellarage) and Lars Neubohn v. James Graziano and Matthew J. Platkin. (Graziano is director of the New Jersey Division of Alcoholic Beverage Control; Platkin is New Jersey’s attorney general.) Under current law, New Jersey is one of the many states that permit direct-to-consumer wine shipments from out-of-state wineries, with restrictions, but it prohibits wine shipments from out-of-state retailers. New York City–based fine wine retailer the Wine Cellarage filed a complaint in 2019 against New Jersey’s out-of-state retailer ban. The plaintiffs argued that New Jersey’s retailer ban violates the…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 CALERA Pinot Noir Mount Harlan de Villiers Vineyard 2020 $95 CALIFORNIA This red’s alluring core of gently steeped black cherry and black currant fruit shows details of licorice root, singed apple wood, black tea and mulling spices, keeping a steady pulse on the long finish. COLLECTIBLE 97 FONTODI Chianti Classico Panzano Terrazze San Leolino Gran Selezione 2020 $129 ITALY Deep in color, this sumptuous red shows both power and finesse, packed with blackberry, black currant, violet, iron and spice flavors. Expressive and beautifully balanced. SMART BUY 91 TANIA & VINCENT CARÊME Vouvray Spring 2020 $20 FRANCE This round, ripe version offers quince and ginger flavors that are layered with lime oil on the chalky-textured palate. Shows some real structure and poise, ending with fine-grained mineral elements. BEST…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below). Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Spain, Italy, Champagne, South Africa Tim Fish California Zinfandel and Merlot, Oregon, Washington, U.S. sparkling wines Aaron Romano Argentina, Chile Kristen Bieler Rhône Valley and other France, Germany, Austria How We Do…

From our offices in New York City and Napa, much of the best food and wine in the U.S. is within easy reach, particularly the restaurants of Manhattan, San Francisco and California wine country. These destinations star frequently in our pages, along with other major culinary cities such as Chicago, Los Angeles and Las Vegas. But great wine lists and fine dining are found throughout America, as reflected in our annual Restaurant Awards and verified by our own editors. If, like many of us, you hunkered down during the pandemic, it’s time to revisit some classic venues and also catch up on what’s new across the U.S. For our cover story in this issue, we focus on 10 U.S. cities that deserve your attention and offer our recommendations on where…

Philippe Pascal didn’t want to spend his retirement simply drinking great Burgundy–he wanted to make it. After decades as an executive at luxury giant LVMH, working as CEO at Moët Hennessy Group (the wine and spirits division of LVMH), then heading its watches division and serving as adviser to LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, Pascal purchased Cellier aux Moines, a rundown ancient monastery with vineyards, in 2004. Eight years later, he left corporate life behind to focus on wine full time. The property’s location in Givry, a less-celebrated appellation in Burgundy’s Côte Chalonnaise region, smelled like an opportunity to Pascal. “The terroir was on par with its neighbors, it was just not as well-known.” He has the same hunch about Juliénas, one of the 10 designated crus in Beaujolais—and one of…

Vanessa Cherruau knew she could make high quality dry Chenin Blanc in the schist soils of the Loire Valley’s Anjou region. But when she debuted her 2019 vintage of Château de Plaisance, a historic estate she acquired on the prized Chaume hill, she was terrified that she would not be able to sell it. “No one knew where Anjou was even a decade ago, and the region had failed economically,” Cherruau says. “It was known for cheap sweet white wines and bad rosé that no one drinks anymore.” As in other neighboring Loire appellations dedicated to Chenin Blanc, Anjou fell victim to the post-WWII trap of high yields and overproduction, focusing on low quality sweet wines produced by adding sugar. Sales of the region’s truly aristocratic sweet wines, from premier…

Millahue, a sub-area of Cachapoal Valley in central Chile, is surrounded by more than 10,000 acres of pristine wilderness, including 2,500 acres of forest-land. The region, “Golden Place” in the language of native Mapuche people, is home to Vik Winery, one of the area’s few modern inhabitants. Because of this, owners Alexander and Carrie Vik aim to tread lightly and embrace the natural environment. They take a holistic approach, including an eco-conscious design for their winery and sustainable viticulture and winemaking techniques to reinforce efficient wine production. Winemakers are often control freaks, and while practicing organic viticulture and natural winemaking are symbiotic with Mother Nature, Vik winemaker Cristián Vallejo is constantly thinking outside the box in pursuit of new ways to fine-tune the wines while remaining true to the winery’s…

Situated on the thin southern peninsula of Long Island’s East End, the Hamptons was once a summertime-only retreat. Yet in recent years, these oceanside hamlets have morphed into year-round destinations—and the increasingly dynamic drinking and eating options are helping drive that appeal. In addition to the tried-and-true landmarks, there are several new spots worth checking out. STAY Gurney’s Montauk Resort 290 Old Montauk Highway, Montauk | (631) 668-2345 | gurneysresorts.com Even in the dead of winter, the sweeping ocean views at this sea-side resort will impress. After a complete renovation in 2015, Gurney’s has come a long way since its founding nearly 100 years ago. Summertime guests can join the buzzing beach party with music and nighttime bonfires, while winter visitors can enjoy the hotel’s Seawater Spa and indoor plunge…

The Texas state capital is famous for its live music scene and a countercultural energy that is unafraid of going against the grain. Though the heyday of “Keep Austin Weird” has passed and real estate prices have skyrocketed, the city retains a youthful, eclectic and thoroughly Texan flavor, especially with food and wine, and has become a destination for fine dining and luxury experiences, Tex-as-style. These spots offer a taste of what Austin has always been: friendly, irrepressibly hip and ready with a tasty surprise. STAY Commodore Perry Estate by Auberge Resorts Collection 4100 Red River St. | (866) 976-4312 | aubergeresorts.com/commodoreperry This enclosed 10-acre estate is a relaxing escape just north of downtown, comprising a restored 1928 Italian Renaissance Revival mansion with expansive European-style gardens. Splurge on one of…

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Best Values / New Releases: Argentina ARGENTINA Chardonnay & Blends 95 Bodega Catena Zapata Chardonnay Mendoza Adrianna Vineyard White Bones 2021 $140 Distinctive and gorgeously layered, with intense savory aromas of pineapple sage, ginger and chive flower that join the vibrant palate, bursting with tangelo and white peach flavors. Ends on a clean and refreshing note, with wet stone details, echoing back to the persistent core flavors. Drink now through 2033. 520 cases made, 225 cases imported.—A.R. 92 Bodega Catena Zapata Chardonnay Mendoza Adrianna Vineyard White Stones 2021 $140 This white has a lovely gardenia undercurrent, with a fleshy core of white peach, melon and citrus. Picks up a layer of clean minerality before ending on a lightly spiced note. Drink now through 2028. 560 cases made, 200…

Three’s Company I read with particular interest your issue on “Whisky for Wine Lovers” (cover, Oct. 15). As someone who subscribes to Wine Spectator, Whisky Advocate and Cigar Aficionado, I can tell you that they are not mutually exclusive loves! A good Cab with a steak dinner and a Bourbon and cigar after dinner are truly among life’s pleasures. I am no expert, but I have been fortunate enough to visit Napa, and the Bourbon Trail in Louisville, Ky., and I particularly enjoy Hall and Opus wines. Jordan is also a go-to Cab. A Blanton’s with a Padrón 50th or 90th Anniversary is a great way to cap off any evening. I have always told my two kids that life is too short not to enjoy wine, whisky or cigars…

A master of Chenin Blanc in the Loire Valley, Jean Baumard of Domaine des Baumard died Aug. 8 at age 92. The Baumard family has been cultivating vines in Anjou since 1634, but Jean was responsible for the quality surge of the domaine’s modern era and for restoring prominence to the dry wines of Savennières and sweet wines of Quarts de Chaume. Baumard trained as a winemaker in Dijon and Bordeaux before joining his father in 1953 at the family winery. He took over in 1955 and set out to expand their holdings, acquiring 14 acres in the Quarts de Chaume and later purchasing 36 acres in the prestigious Savennières appellation. “Jean was a tireless innovator, perhaps even a bit of a revolutionary, particularly when it came to viticulture,” said…

Argentine Malbec Malbec still reigns supreme across Argentina, yet the variety reveals different expressions depending on where it’s grown. An array of other wines, particularly whites made from the traditional Torrontés grape, are also gaining recognition. BODEGA MIL SUELOS Malbec Paraje Altamira Zaha Toko Vineyard 2021 (93, $30) Dense, suave, rich; blackberry, spiced plum, cocoa bean, mineral ALTOCEDRO Malbec La Consulta Old Vine Reserve 2021 (92, $30) Cassis, blackberry, spiced chocolate, herbs; generous, polished BODEGA MIL SUELOS Malbec Paraje Altamira Manos Negras Artesano 2021 (92, $30) Elegant, detailed; violet, hibiscus, raspberry, cherry, mineral, spices BODEGA CATENA ZAPATA Malbec Lunlunta Old Vines 2021 (91, $22) Cherry, plum, clove, loam, graphite, smoke; polished, velvety DOMINIO DEL PLATA Susana Balbo Signature Brioso White Uco Valley 2022 (91, $24) Vibrant, aromatic; gardenia, peach blossoms, celery salt, lime zest,…

The gnarled old Grenache vines in southern France’s Roussillon region have a camellike ability to adapt to their harsh, dry climate. They don’t need much water to thrive. Annual rainfall can be as low as 15 or 16 inches, making it one of the world’s driest wine regions. But the 2023 growing season was extreme. Record-breaking drought impacted much of France. Roussillon, a rugged, rocky stretch of land on the border of Spain between the Pyrenees and the Corbières mountains, received less than 8 inches of rain—that’s less than one-third of normal. Some young vines, which require more water and also lack the deep root systems to access underground water stores, died. Even sturdier older vines fought to survive. For Jean-Marc Lafage, the 2023 harvest was a litmus test for…

The cities and communities stretching from Miami to Palm Beach are hard to summarize. For one thing, this part of the country is constantly changing, attracting waves of new residents from every continent and every part of the U.S. looking to enjoy vibrant communities and near-tropical weather. The local cuisine takes inspiration from many cultures and refines the mix into something new, exuberant and luxurious. The key to enjoying South Florida is to keep an open mind and seek out new adventures every day. STAY Faena Hotel Miami Beach 3201 Collins Ave., Faena District, Miami Beach | (305) 534-8800 | faena.com/miami-beach Located north of South Beach’s main tourist stretch, Faena draws a sophisticated crowd. Argentinian hotelier Alan Faena partnered with Accor and consulted with Hollywood director Baz Luhrmann and Luhrmann’s…

The population of Phoenix is growing faster than that of any other major U.S. city. Likewise, the food scene has exploded in many directions, including the greater Phoenix area, encompassing more than 500 square miles within the Valley of the Sun. This development is supported by an increasing supply of local produce and products for chefs to rely on, and further reinforced by an exciting regional wine industry (as well as local craft beers and spirits). Within the greater Phoenix area, you’ll find sophisticated fare in an exciting farm-to-table movement. STAY Arizona Biltmore, A Waldorf Astoria Resort 2400 E. Missouri Ave. | (602) 955-6600 | arizonabiltmore.com This classic, pristinely manicured oasis takes in more than 700 accommodations, including guest rooms, cottages and villas, some with fire pits. The property has…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 97 Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero 2019 $104 ITALY Saturated with cherry, raspberry and violet aromas and flavors, this pure and silky red is both elegant and beautifully structured. Very expressive today, already showing harmony and excellent length on the finish, with mineral and underbrush accents adding depth. Best from 2025 through 2042. 600 cases made, 180 cases imported.—B.S. 96 Renato Corino Barolo Rocche dell’ Annun ziata 2019 $90 ITALY This supple and harmonious version is saturated with pure cherry and blackberry fruit, with kirsch, mint, grass and spice accents chiming in as this firms up and turns more complex on the long, detailed finish. Best from 2026 through…

NEW RELEASES: Italy / UNITED STATES / California CALIFORNIA Pinot Noir 95 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan de Villiers Vineyard 2020 $95 See Highly Recommended, page 85. 94 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Jensen Vineyard 2020 $125 Shows nice contrast, with a fairly broad black cherry and mulberry fruit core, which is eventually harnessed through the finish by racy red tea and mineral notes. Offers generous lively, savory chaparral notes that dart around, lending a mouthwatering edge. Delivering lovely range and character, this should develop nicely in the cellar. Best from 2025 through 2035. 1,000 cases made.—J.M. 94 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Ryan Vineyard 2020 $95 Nicely packed, with a mix of raspberry, damson plum and cherry fruit flavors that meld steadily, showing off red tea, dried anise and sous-bois…