Innholdsfortegnelse for August 31, 2016 i Wine Spectator

A typical wineshop offers hundreds, if not thousands, of wine choices. How do you decide which bottle to buy? Ask the retailer? Read a wine magazine or newsletter? Depend on a recommendation from a friend? See a pretty label that attracts your eye? This is truly a challenging dilemma. Do any other consumer product categories offer so many different options? How many of you read the description of the wine, and its rating, displayed on an in-store shelf talker? For many wine consumers, this is the most convenient way to make a purchasing decision. Is there anything wrong with that, you ask? Maybe, maybe not, I reply. You see, not all shelf talkers, or for that matter wine retailers, can be trusted. Over the years, our readers have sent us…

Over four busy days in June, Auction Napa Valley raised $14.3 million for local nonprofits focused on community health and children’s education. That’s less than 2014’s record $18.7 million, but the Napa Valley Vintners event, now in its 36th year, continues to be the nation’s top charity wine fundraiser. Since its inception in 1981, it has given more than $150 million to charities. The festivities got underway Thursday June 2 with welcome parties at various area wineries. Friday’s barrel auction and marketplace was held on the grounds of Robert Mondavi Winery, where a crowd of nearly 2,000 braved scorching temperatures for the opportunity to sample barrel lots from more than 100 wineries. Saturday’s live auction was the main focus, with Argentinian chef Francis Mallmann cooking for 900 guests at the…

PLANTER’S PUNCH 6 parts dark or aged rum 6 parts orange curaçao 6 parts orange juice 6 parts pineapple juice 3 parts allspice liqueur or pimento dram 3 parts lime juice 1 ½ parts simple syrup ½ part grenadine 3 dashes bitters for each quart prepared Orange, pineapple and lime garnishes On the day of the event, squeeze the desired amounts of orange and lime juices (don’t make yourself crazy, use bottled pineapple juice). Mix all ingredients in a pitcher (the vaunted Savoy Cocktail Book suggests that the order in which ingredients are added is all-important, but that’s being too much the stickler). Stir well. Wait 1 hour and then refrigerate until the event. Before serving, stir again and add orange, lime and pine-apple chunks. Batches made with 1 part…

The best way to approach an inflating wine collection is to think of it as estate planning for your cellar. The conversation was years ago, but it’s stuck with me all this time. The topic: how best to drink down your cellar. The debaters: long-in-the-tooth wine lovers bantering about their collections. There was general agreement that the perfect ending would be drinking your last bottle on your last day. This struck me as hopelessly romantic at the time and seems even more improbable today. Having now visited many of the collectors in their cellars, I’m even more convinced of how fantastical this dream really is. In every case, the bottles far outnumber however many days each collector has left. American affluence has allowed us to accumulate the things we love…

• Alvarinho | The low-yielding Alvarinho produces aromatic wines of complexity and richness, characterized by flavors of peach, citrus zest and passion fruit. Known as Albariño in Spain. • Arinto/Loureiro/Trajadura | In addition to Alvarinho, these varieties are found in the light, crisp, mildly fizzy bottlings from the northern Vinho Verde DOC. Arinto (or Padernã) is vibrant and minerally; Loureiro is aromatic and floral; and Trajadura steely and higher in alcohol. • Encruzado | The headliner in the Dão, Encruzado balances sugar and acidity to create ageable and structured wines. Floral and citrus notes dominate, resulting in rich, minerally versions. It is a leading component in many blends. • Gouveio | High-yielding and widely planted, its citrus aromas and peach and aniseed flavors produce bright wines with lively acidity. Once…

A restaurant’s wine list is a gateway to the world of wine. And every door leads to a different path, sometimes taking you around the globe, sometimes revealing treasures in your own backyard. Today’s wine directors respect the classics but are no longer satisfied with treading only familiar territory. Wine lists increasingly strike out for parts unknown, and these voyages of discovery can expand customers’ horizons. At Bracero Cocina de Raíz, a contemporary Mexican restaurant in San Diego, Calif., wine director J.M. Woody Van Horn champions wines from Baja California, a Mexican region located about two hours’ drive south of the city. These wines account for 70 percent of Van Horn’s list and nearly 90 percent of his sales. Producers such as Adobe Guadalupe, Torres Alegre and La Lomita are…

Location alone would draw people to Murray Circle, the signature restaurant at the Cavallo Point resort. It occupies the former officer’s club of the decommissioned Fort Baker, across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco. The bridge’s orange towers peek through a forested hillside. Early on a spring evening, sunset colors bathe the San Francisco skyline, visible from the Craftsman-style dining room. For wine lovers, though, a cellar stocked with 12,000 bottles supporting more than 2,200 selections is just as compelling. Befitting the restaurant’s location, the list focuses strongly on California classics, although all the world’s great wine regions are represented. “It used to be rare when someone came in because of the wine program,” says wine director Jamie Harding. “Now it’s a few times a week.” Murray Circle opened…

The 2017 Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards program will accept new entries and renewals from Dec. 1, 2016, to Feb. 1, 2017; all entries must be postmarked by Feb. 1. To enter, restaurants must submit a copy of their current wine list and dinner menu, plus a cover letter that describes their wine program. The letter must include the restaurant’s phone number and e-mail address, and must be in English. A nonrefundable processing fee, payable either by check or credit card, is also required; the fee is $325 from Dec. 1 to Dec. 31, 2016, or $375 from Jan. 1 to Feb. 1, 2017 Additional information and general applications are available at www.winespectator.com/awards. FIRST-TIME ENTRANTS: All first-time entrants can go to Restaurants. WineSpectator.com, where they’ll be directed to fill out the…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world and the results of special tastings reported on in greater depth elsewhere in the issue. Complete tasting notes are provided for all new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Additional reviews appear on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. If no reviewer’s initials appear, the wine was tasted by a panel of Wine Spectator editors. James Laube California Harvey Steiman Oregon, Washington Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus Argentina, Austria, Chile, Germany, Portugal Bruce Sanderson Burgundy,…

ARGENTINA 91 Bodegas Salentein Numina Spirit Vineyard Gran Corte Uco Valley 2013 $41 Powerful and juicy, with concentrated flavors of dark plum, blackberry and dark currant that feature plenty of Asian spice notes. Dark chocolate details show on the finish, revealing some graphite and white pepper accents. Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Drink now through 2020. 4,380 cases made.—K.M. 90 Bodegas Caro Mendoza 2013 $63 Offers a spicy nose, with flavors of dark plum, blackberry and currant, accented by plenty of Asian spice notes. Chocolate and dried mint details show on the lithe finish, accented by hints of curry. Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2019. 2,000 cases imported.—K.M. 89 Alamos Torrontés Salta 2015 $13 See Best Values, page 168. 89 Michel Torino Malbec Cafayate…

ITALY Abruzzi 88 La Quercia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2014 $13 This juicy red features sappy black cherry and blackberry fruit set in a light- to medium-bodied frame, with accents of spice, dried fig and espresso that show on the lightly chewy finish. Drink now through 2020. 12,000 cases made.—A.N. 88 Cantine Talamonti Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo 2015 $13 Bright and juicy, with exuberant wild strawberry and cherry fruit flavors underscored by accents of hot stone, spice and orange zest. The crisp finish echoes the ripe fruit. Drink now. 3,500 cases made.—A.N. 87 Cantine Talamonti Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Modà 2015 $13 A balanced red, with light, sculpted tannins and a bright profile of brambly cherry and candied berry fruit, accented by notes of mocha and dried herb. Offers a fresh, spicy finish. Drink now through…

SOUTH AFRICA Red 94 de Trafford Syrah Stellenbosch 393 2012 $85 Ripe and fleshy, with tasty layers of fig, boysenberry and blackberry pâte de fruit pumping through, while a brambly but well-integrated structure drives the finish. The ample heft is balanced by terrific energy. A mouthwatering tobacco note weaves throughout, while dark ganache and loam details help drive the finish. Drink now through 2024. 56 cases imported.—J.M. 93 Sijnn Malgas 2012 $40 Offers a concentrated core of anise, blackberry and plum paste flavors, backed by enticing licorice snap, warm fruit cake and wood spice notes. Gains elegance through the finish, with a hint of black tea and a minerally underpinning. Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Mourvèdre and Trincadeira. Drink now through 2020. 70 cases imported.—J.M. 92 de Trafford Syrah Stellenbosch Blueprint 2011…

TANNIN TALK Readers respond to Harvey Steiman’s blog post “Washington Reds Develop a Bite” (online, April 28), which notes the rise of tannin levels in Washington’s red wines. With the exceptionally warm 2012 and 2013 vintages, astringency driven by assaulting tannins dominates too many of Washington’s top Bordeaux-style wines. I wonder if there is a “Red Mountain” effect at play. Wines sourced from the Red Mountain AVA are often very tannic and mostly unapproachable in early life but receive high scores because of their cachet, inherent structure and [proven] aging potential. Are Washington winemakers making wines more aligned with a tannic Red Mountain profile because that is where the scores are? Or, did they simply get caught not adjusting to the conditions of abnormally warm vintages? Mike Olszewski Newcastle, Wash.…

Before Donn Chappellet set his sights on producing powerful, agewor-thy wines, he made a fortune distributing coffee vending machines. But in 1967, seeking an escape from the hustle of Beverly Hills, he and his wife, Molly, moved to Napa Valley and founded Chappellet Vineyards. Part of Napa’s quality revolution, the winery put Pritchard Hill on the map. Chappellet died May 22 after a long illness, according to his family. He was 84. “Dad was the kindest, most thoughtful person,” said son Cyril Chappellet, the winery’s current board chair-man. “He was our rock, our mentor, and an inspiration not just to our family but to so many others as well.” Donn Chappellet was born in 1931 in Los Angeles and met his future wife there as a teenager. The two were…

Brian Kevorkian was raised in Lenox, Mass., by a single mother who would often leave the house at 6 a.m. to work a grueling series of odd jobs that kept the family afloat. “I learned from that,” he says. “You don’t get anything in life without hard work.” Early on, his grit was buttressed by a dose of luck. “I walked into a restaurant called Blantyre, not a clue what it was,” he says. The Wine Spectator Grand Award–winning French dining destination would be where Kevorkian, under the tutelage of chefs Arnaud Cotar and Christopher Brooks, learned to cook. He went on to stints at Grand Award winners Element 47 in Aspen, Colo., Restaurant Gary Danko in San Francisco, and Eleven Madison Park and the Modern in New York City.…

VINHOS PORTUGUESES From crisp, tangy whites to bold, spicy reds to rich Ports, the wines of Portugal have come into their own with a host of styles. The selections on this list are all $30 or less to help you explore the country’s bounty. CHURCHILL Late Bottled Port 2008 (92, $30) Luscious, rich; plum, chocolate, mocha, hot stone, smoke QUINTA DAS CARVALHAS Touriga Nacional Douro 2013 (91, $20) Red currant, dark plum, violet, leafy, cocoa powder, spice QUINTA DO INFANTADO Vintage Port 2011 (91, $25) Floral, red plum, raspberry tart, chocolate, spice QUINTA DOS ROQUES Dão 2012 (91, $14) Cherry, plum, boysenberry, red currant, violet, mineral; suave, silky CAVES TRANSMONTANAS Douro Vértice Grande Reserva White 2013 (91, $26) Rich; dried apple, dried mango, pear, coconut CAVES ALIANÇA Dão Quinta da…

Sometimes we revere not so much the sensory experience of the wine but what the wine represents. I purposely saved this topic for the very heart of midsummer, the time of year that finds us at our most easygoing. Is that red wine a little too warm for you? No problem, you say, let me freshen it up with an ice cube or two. (Would you so freely do the same thing at a formal dinner party in midwinter? I doubt it.) But even in summer, if there’s a common denominator among wine lovers today—so-called “serious” wine lovers, anyway—it’s that we are sometimes overly reverential. I confess that I have struggled with this for many years; even now, when I’m probably as loosey-goosey about wine as I’ve ever been, I’m…

Restaurant beverage directors often take advantage of the moments before service to offer servers samples of the latest labels. At Wassail, in Manhattan’s Lower East Side neighborhood, Dan Pucci opens a selection of ciders for his colleagues. Everyone sniffs, swirls and tastes, as Pucci notes how the intensely smoky mushroom special for the evening will pair excellently with a rustic French cider. He offers some talking points for servers: how the ciders are made; what types of apples are used; where the orchards are located. The team then breaks to begin service. “Cider is great for pairing with food,” explains Pucci, who spent four years as a sommelier and manager at Eataly and Otto in New York prior to becoming cider director at Wassail. “You start the same way you…

In 1997, Jean-Georges Vongerichten made his debut on the culinary main stage. The chef, then 40, had been working in restaurant kitchens since 1973 and finally felt ready to put his name on the marquee. Jean-Georges opened on the ground floor of the newly renovated and rechristened Trump International Hotel and Tower on Columbus Circle in the heart of Manhattan. It was an instant success, and has matured into a New York classic. The Strasbourg-born chef had cooked all over the world, and in New York he had already opened a bistro called JoJo and the French-Asian Vong with partner Phil Suarez. At Jean-Georges, the chef channeled all his influences to create an intensely personal cuisine. Dishes range from deceptively simple, like egg caviar (eggs, cream, caviar), to mindbenders such…

The word “holistic” is not often associated with a luxury resort, but that’s exactly the connection between the Restaurant at Meadowood and Napa Valley. The food, the wine and the cultures are harmoniously entwined, creating a dining experience that’s ambitious and distinctly Napan. H. William Harlan, creator of cult Cabernet Harlan Estate, is the managing partner of Meadowood, so the focus should come as no surprise. But the restaurant had a sleepy reputation until it closed for a four-year hiatus. When it reopened in 2006, Harlan wanted a more dynamic dining room, all part of the 250-acre estate’s $60 million renovation. He hired Nathaniel Dorn as restaurant director to set the change in motion. “I had something in mind 10 years ago,” Dorn says. “And now to see it coming…

97 Reynvaan Syrah Walla Walla Valley In The Rocks 2013 $70 WASHINGTON Supple and expressive, this opens up like a giant flower, spreading the dark plum, blackberry, crème fraîche and spice flavors throughout the seamless whole. The finish sails on against barely noticeable tannins. This has tremendous power, but feels like it’s floating. Drink now through 2025. 600 cases made.—H.S. 96 Carlisle Zinfandel Russian River Valley Montafi Ranch 2014 $47 CALIFORNIA Zinfandel doesn’t get much better than this. Rich aromas of black raspberry and orange zest open to balanced, complex and luxurious flavors of blackberry, mint and baking spices. A knockout. Drink now through 2027. 871 cases made.—T.F. 95 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Æolian 2014 $42 OREGON This is aromatically pure, with currant, plum, chocolate, mineral and floral…

92 Adelsheim Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2014 $32 OREGON Lithe, supple, lively and expressive, layering boysenberry, pomegranate, floral and coffee notes on a sleek frame, with powdery tannins. Finishes with presence and persistence. Drink now through 2023. 15,712 cases made.—H.S. 92 Intrinsic Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2014 $22 WASHINGTON Firm in texture, brimming with raspberry, black cherry, violet and herb flavors that come together harmoniously on the finish against refined tannins. Offers presence and persistence. Best from 2018 through 2024. 30,000 cases made.—H.S. 91 CARM Douro Reserva 2012 $22 PORTUGAL Suave and rich, showing luscious sandalwood notes to the dried cherry and raspberry flavors. The creamy finish lingers with cocoa powder and white pepper accents. Drink now through 2020. 15,000 cases made.—K.M. 90 Arnaldo Caprai Grechetto Colli Martani Grecante 2015…

FRANCE Champagne 96 Krug Brut Champagne 2002 $259 See Collectibles, page 165. 93 Charles Ellner Brut Champagne Séduction 2006 $56 Ripe quince, honey, lemon zest and brioche notes are layered with a chalky undertow in this wellstructured Champagne. Vibrant, with juicy acidity. The creamy bead carries spice, salted almond and ripe fruit flavors on the finish. Drink now through 2026. 150 cases imported.—A.N. 92 Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Champagne NV $850 A vibrant version in a sleek, finely knit package. The creamy mousse carries flavors of ripe black cherry and cassis fruit, with details of ground ginger and clove, mandarin orange peel and smoky mineral. Savory finish. Drink now through 2021.—A.N. 92 Armand de Brignac Brut Rosé Champagne NV $450 Well-spiced and finely knit, this harmonious rosé is…

PORTUGAL Alentejo / Red 90 Paulo Laureano Tinta Grossa Alentejo Selectio 2012 $40 A big and deeply spiced red, with exuberant dried berry, currant and roasted plum flavors, accented by cumin notes. Muscular tannins show on the cedary finish. Needs time to settle down. Best from 2017 through 2020. 520 cases made.—K.M. 88 Terras de Alter Alentejo Fado Reserva Red 2013 $25 Zesty, with good lift to the red berry and plum tart flavors, accented by hints of green olive and allspice. Cocoa powder details fill the savory finish. Drink now. 3,750 cases made.—K.M. 88 Terras de Alter Alicante Bouschet Alentejo Fado Selection 2013 $18 Offers intense forest floor notes to the dark plum and roasted cherry flavors. Smoky accents show midpalate, with a generous helping of Asian spice on…

CALIFORNIA Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 94 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard 2012 $425 See Collectibles, page 165. 92 Alpha Omega Proprietary Red Napa Valley 2013 $98 Hides tannic muscle amid a dense, supple core of anise, black licorice, dusty herb and cedar flavors. A style well-suited for hearty fare and a long decant. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Drink now through 2026. 2,500 cases made.—J.L. 92 Coup de Foudre Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2013 $95 Aromatically pure and inviting, with floral-scented plum and wild berry notes. The entry is pleasantly supple and mildly gripping, while the flavors offer the kind of compelling depth and persistence one seeks in fine Cabernet. Drink now through 2026. 625 cases made.—J.L. 92 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon St.…

OREGON Pinot Noir 95 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Æolian 2014 $42 See Highly Recommended, page 165. 94 Elk Cove Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District Goodrich 2014 $60 Distinctly minerally, with a saline quality to the ripe raspberry and cherry flavors, coming together harmoniously against powdery tannins on the long, vivid finish. Exciting, promising a great future. Best from 2017 through 2024. 700 cases made.—H.S. 94 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2014 $50 Open-textured and inviting, layering the black cherry, currant, mineral and spice flavors on a polished frame, finishing with generosity and precision without excess weight. Drink now through 2024. 316 cases made.—H.S. 94 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 􀀭Single Vineyard 2013 $75 Light and zingy, dripping with gorgeous raspberry, strawberry and floral flavors, weaving in…

HOW TO GET IT www.formaggiokitchen.com Marcel Petite Fort Saint Antoine Comté ($26/lb.) Marcel Petite Le Fort Comté ($33/lb.) Marcel Petite Grand Cru Comté ($37/lb.) There’s a lot to be said for having it both ways. Comté, it seems, is one cheese that does. Handmade according to an ancient traditional recipe yet employing the most advanced modern technology; emanating from family farms yet bolstered by a powerful professional arm; upholding conservative values, advanced by progressive principles—Comté is at once France’s top-selling Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheese, a major player in the mass market and among the best of connoisseurs’ table cheeses. Like Parmigiano-Reggiano in Italy, Comté is a big, labor-intensive cheese made by scores of affiliated producers and requiring long, careful aging. A wheel, referred to as a meule (millstone)…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED VALUE96 CarlisleZinfandel Russian River Valley Montafi Ranch 2014 $47 CALIFORNIA Zinfan-del doesn’t get much better than this, with rich aromas of black raspberry and orange zest opening to luxurious flavors of blackberry, mint and baking spices. COLLECTIBLE 95 Tenuta San GuidoBolgheri-Sassicaia Sassicaia 2013 $235 ITALY A racy, tightly wound style, offering violet, black currant, cherry, wild herb, spice and mineral flavors matched to a dense, smooth texture. SMART BUY 90 Domaine de MourchonCôtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret Tradition 2013 $20 FRANCE Shows solid depth and flesh for the vintage, with a hint of singed iron running amid the dark plum and blackberry fruit. BEST VALUe 89 AlamosTorrontés Salta 2015 $13 ARGENTINA A rich white, showing creamy notes to the ripe grapefruit, kiwifruit and plum flavors, with plenty of floral…

Portugal’s Douro River Valley contains an amazing mix of terroirs where native grapes have adapted to searing summer heat to produce world-class red table wines. And when it comes to making intensely flavorful and concentrated Ports in the deepest reaches of the Douro gorge, the hotter the better. But Douro vintners are now exploring the highest regions of this vast realm of 125,000 vineyard acres for new wines—and their color is white, not red. In the cooler climes of the Douro rim’s higher altitudes, as well as on its sheltered north- and east-facing slopes, thrive a wealth of formerly unheralded native white grapes—Viosinho, Arinto, Gouveio and Rabigato, among others—that are typically blended. In deft hands they can be complex, rich and creamy-tasting, with impressive minerality reminiscent of white Burgundy. Portuguese…

EDEN SEMI-DRY | $15 Eden is highly regarded for its ice ciders, but this sparkling cider’s broad texture, married with powerful and direct acidity, shows ripe pineapple and pear flavors, with candied orange peel and gingersnap cookie notes, ending with a touch of sweetness to complement the twinge of bitterness, firm tannins and fresh acidity. WINE EQUIVALENT: The fullbodied but bold acidity and hint of sweetness make this a good option for fans of Riesling from Austria or Alsace. EVE’S CIDERY NORTHERN SPY | $19 Made in the traditional méthode Champenoise style, this single-variety, bone-dry sparkling cider is lithe and has a savory edge to its lively mix of lime, grapefruit and apple skin, ending with cleansing floral and spice details. WINE EQUIVALENT: This focused sparkler balances its primary fruit…

ABOUT THE AWARD LEVELS To qualify for an award, a wine list must present complete, accurate information, including vintages and appellations for all selections. Complete producer names and correct spellings are mandatory, and the overall presentation of the list is also considered. Lists that meet these requirements are judged for one of our three awards. AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 2,414 winners These wine lists, which typically offer at least 90 selections, feature a well-chosen assortment of quality producers along with a thematic match to the menu in both price and style. Whether compact or exten-sive, focused or diverse, these lists deliver sufficient choice to satisfy discerning wine lovers. BEST OF AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 1,093 winners These wine lists display excellent breadth across multiple winegrowing regions and/or significant vertical depth of top…

89 Alamos Torrontés Salta 2015 $13 ARGENTINA A rich version, with some creamy notes to the ripe grapefruit, kiwifruit and white plum flavors, featuring plenty of floral details. Spicy and lush on the long finish. Drink now. 30,000 cases imported.—K.M. 89 Michel Torino Malbec Cafayate Valley Cuma 2015 $13 ARGENTINA Fresh and fruity, with plenty of vibrancy to the crushed red berry, plum and dried blackberry flavors, loaded with minerality. The supple finish reveals cocoa powder accents. Drink now through 2018. 7,695 cases imported.—K.M. 88 CARM Douro Vinha do Bispado 2014 $9 PORTUGAL Effusively fruity, with intense crushed cherry and plum tart flavors that feature rich pastry notes. The spicy finish is vibrant and crisp. Drink now. 22,000 cases made.—K.M. 87 Aveleda Loureiro-Alvarinho Vinho Verde Quinta da Aveleda 2015 $9…

DR. VINNY Dear Dr. Vinny, What wine would you pair with … Popcorn?—Jan, California Sparkling wine! Salty popcorn is perfect for Champagne. Chardonnay, which often delivers buttery flavors from oak and malolactic fermentation, is also a good match. Bacon?—Nancy, Pittsburgh With all of its wonderful smoke, salt and savory flavors, bacon goes well with many different types of wine. Riesling and Gewürztraminer are already pork’s best friends, and you can apply that to bacon, too. Chilled rosé could also be a great foil for crispy bacon. Alligator?—Matt, Harrisburg, Pa. Alligator meat can taste like gamy veal, or perhaps like a cross between chicken and rabbit. The best bet may be a soft red like Pinot Noir, or a light, dry white like Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. Breakfast cereal?—Matthew, Raleigh,…