Innholdsfortegnelse for September 30, 2015 i Wine Spectator

A SEAT AT THE TABLE Readers respond to Matt Kramer’s question “Should restaurants champion local wines, in the same way chefs showcase local ingredients?” (“Should Restaurant Wine Lists Feature Local Wines?” online, June 16). Kramer states that unlike their counterparts in Europe, many top restaurants in the U.S. have a surprising paucity of local wines, and he wonders whether they have an obligation to better support them. As a wine producer I’d say, “No, a restaurant has no obligation to carry local wines.” A wine buyer can carry any wines she or he wants, based on any criteria. Having said that, I do find it somewhat odd when a restaurant that champions local farm-to-table cuisine eschews local wines. I also wonder if in tourist areas such as San Francisco, restaurants…

Navigating the international wine extravaganza of Vinexpo is a daunting experience, best digested in sips and nibbles Bordeaux rolled out the red carpet this June for the 18th installment of Vinexpo. Navigating this biennial international wine extravaganza—a colossal assemblage of wine professionals huddled in an enormous pavilion the size of eight football fields—is a daunting experience, best digested in sips and nibbles. Beverage hawkers by the thousands pose as trusty brand ambassadors, swarming the rotunda and offering just about every kind of wine or spirit from just about anywhere. Attendees shake hands or air kiss, their conversations broaching an array of industry topics already on the minds of many—and soon to be the talk of many more. The Bordelais capitalize on homefield advantage. One night I dined with about 500…

Lotus of Siam is a Las Vegas Thai restaurant with two major attractions: Saipin Chutima’s food, which covers both typical Thai cuisine and lesser-known regional dishes, and the 1,190-selection wine list developed by Chutima’s husband, Bill. Saipin Chutima LOTUS OF SIAM 953 E. Sahara Ave., Las Vegas Telephone (702) 735-3033 Website www.saipinchutima.com Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence Chutima’s daughter, Penny, tells her mother’s story. “Both my parents were born on farms in a poor area,” she says. “The eldest takes care of the siblings while the parents work on the farm. So my mother learned to cook at age five.” While she first learned to cook from her grandmother, Chutima later went to work as a helper for her future husband’s family. There she learned earthier, more meatbased northern…

The 2012 harvest is unique for white Burgundy. It’s a year in which vintage is in-delibly imprinted on the wines. As they improve with time in the bottle, these Chardonnays are dense and concentrated, offering plush textures and mouthfilling profiles, with the best revealing good acid structures buried in the flesh. This acidity emerges on the finish and needs a few years to fully integrate and find balance. The vintage owes its character to the weather. In a region of challenging vin-tages, 2012 was particularly difficult—costly and tiny in quantity, with the harvest on average yielding 25 percent to 30 percent less volume than usual. Blame lies with frost, poor flowering, disease and hail, as well as small berries with thick skins that gave up little juice. Meursault vintner Jean-Marc…

DR. VINNY Dear Dr. Vinny, What kind of wine might have been served at the Last Supper? —Alex, Miami Dear Alex, While it’s impossible to know what was served at a given meal that long ago, I checked with Patrick McGovern, author of numerous books on this topic, including Ancient Wine: The Search for the Origins of Viniculture. “A range of wines were available, whether smoked, pressed from raisins, or laced with herbs, fruits and/or tree resins,” McGovern said. The Last Supper wine “didn’t have to be kosher, since that development came later.” Given the hot climate of the Holy Land, it’s likely that grape juice would have fermented into wine whether or not people wanted it to. We know that the ancient Romans loved Falernian wine, grown on Mt.…

THE SPARKLING SPLASH BROTHERS For a few games of this year’s NBA Finals, the Cleveland Cavaliers’ LeBron James came close to demonstrating that he could win the series all by himself, but the Golden State Warriors’ Stephen Curry and Klay Thompson, aka the Splash Brothers, proved too much, and the team brought the championship to Oakland for the first time since 1975. Appropriately, the Splash Brothers could be found splashing around with bubbly after clinching the series, celebrating with more than 150 bottles of Mumm Napa Brut Prestige. “We are proud to be the sparkling wine of choice for the 2015 World Champion Golden State Warriors,” said Mumm Napa brand director Julie Galbraith. Mumm is getting used to seeing its bubbly sprayed around—last year’s World Series champs, the San Francisco…

Soyoung Scanlan marches to her own beat. The first clue comes in the name she chose for her dairy: Andante. It’s a musical tempo mark, translated as “strolling speed,” which is to say with definite forward momentum but at the performer’s own pace. Over the past 17 years, Scanlan has found hers. She’s carved out a unique niche, often defying conventional wisdom and practice. Cloaked in a measure of mystique, soft-spoken yet strong-willed, she’s wowed chefs and connoisseurs with her constantly evolving array of artistically conceived and artfully executed cheeses. Born in South Korea to a family of scientists and musicians who were also accomplished cooks, Scanlan was initially on track to become a professor of engineering like her father. But in 1993, at 26, she immigrated to the United…

BEST OF THE WEST California, Oregon and Washington are each represented in this group of great values from the West Coast. Of note are several Pinot Noirs at very attractive prices. ARISTA Pinot Noir Mendocino Ridge 2013 (93, $44) Creamy; raspberry, wild berry, gravelly earth, floral, savory herb, smoke MERRY EDWARDS Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley 2013 (93, $32) White peach, pear, citrus, melon, mango, white flowers; juicy RIBBON RIDGE VINEYARD Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge 2012 (93, $35) Refined; cherry, roasted meat, clove, bay laurel WILDAIRE Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Timothy 2012 (93, $25) Blackberry, currant, black licorice; focused BASEL CELLARS Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2010 (92, $28) Dark berry, pepper, stone, iron ALEXANDRIA NICOLE Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills A Squared 2012 (91, $24) Plum, currant, cream, mineral; sleek…

The greatest wines should transport us to a realm of emotion. Too often, though, we don’t allow it to happen. It was surely one of the more rarefied tastings I’ve been privileged to attend. This past April, Lalou Bize-Leroy, the driving force of the négociant Maison Leroy and its estate-bottling extension, Domaine Leroy, celebrated the 60th anniversary of her entry into the wine business. It was in 1955 that Lalou, at age 23, began her now-fabled career as a taster, selector and, above all, champion of red and white Burgundies delivering the highest levels of quality—at very high prices. She is now 83 years old. It was time to take a victory lap, of sorts. So she decided to serve only 1955s, disgorged from the three deep, very cold stone…

Chef Mark Franz realizes there’s nothing new about the shellfish bisque he contributed to this collection: “I’ve been doing this dish for 40 years.” While Franz does serve more modish dishes at Farallon, his flagship, which opened in 1997, and at Waterbar, which opened in 2007, he notes how useful the base of this recipe is—a shellfish stock pureed with all the waste, including shells. “Treat it right and you have a great stock. We use it a mil-lion ways. It’s a building block.” Franz learned the secrets to this stock from Jeremiah Tower, for whom he worked at Santa Fe Bar and Grill and then at Stars, both Bay Area leaders of California cuisine. “With shellfish, most flavor is in the shell,” Franz explains. “The process of extracting that…

Commander’s Palace has main-tained its reputation as the go-to restaurant for elegant Creole food for over a hundred years and has launched the careers of eminences such as Emeril Lagasse and Paul Prudhomme. Tory McPhail learned this when he scored an interview there after graduation from culinary school in the Pacific North-west. “Somebody told me, ‘If you’re lucky enough to get an interview at Command-er’s, you take it.” That was 22 years ago. Tory McPhail COMMANDER’S PALACE 1403 Washington Ave., New Orleans Telephone (504) 899-8221 Website www.commanderspalace.com Wine Spectator Grand Award What he found in New Orleans surprised him. “French, Spanish, Caribbean, Haitian, Dominican and so on. It’s the original fusion food of North America, and the only unique North American cuisine.” He understands his mandate: “I have to please…

NAPA VALLEY CULTIVATING EXCELLENCE HARVEST 2015 Harvest is a truly magical time of year. In late summer, the Napa Valley comes alive with a rush of activity. This is the time when excellence is more than an ideal. It is a way of life in Napa Valley. To learn more about how our passion for quality winemaking comes to life in our vineyards, on the crush pad and in the cellar, be part of the 2015 Napa Valley vintage in the making as the magic unfolds. VIEW HARVEST PHOTOS, WATCH WINEMAKING VIDEOS ANDMEET THE WINEMAKERS AT NAPAVINTNERS.COM/HARVEST…

“Get me a unit of Cheval, a good chunk of Cheval,” said the voice on the recording, a taped phone conversation between the accused mastermind of an eight-month crime spree, in which more than $1.1 million worth of Bordeaux’s best wines were stolen, and an accomplice. In June, a Bordeaux criminal court found both men, along with 13 others, guilty of robbing 18 wineries and négociants and selling the stolen wine. Sentences included $67,000 fines and up to four years in prison. The man speaking on the recording, according to French gendarmes, was Carlos Da Silva Lopes de Sa, who worked at a Biarritz catering supply company. He was placing an order with Yoann Gautrau, 27, the alleged ringleader. ROBBERS AND CLASSIFIED GROWTHS • The Burglaries: Yoann Gautrau broke into…

In the summer and fall, I brew my hot coffee every morning as usual, but later in the day I enjoy a cooler coffee beverage, often spiced with some alcoholic cheer. I usually play around with my own recipe variations, but this year I decided to ask a few chefs, beverage guys and coffee roasters for favorite recipes. Here are four top picks (three of them spiked) along with a bit of commentary. You can find piloncillo, pure cane syrup and ginger juice at online retailers. ICED CAFÉ DE LA OLLA WITH RUM Mexican-American chef Marcela Valladolid offers a favorite family recipe: “It has been around since the Mexican Revolution,” she says. “Women would make this to keep soldiers awake, and they would sweeten it with piloncillo,” unrefined sugar pressed…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 94 Arista Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2013 $46 CALIFORNIA This is ultrarich and deep, offering a wealth of fruit and flavor dimensions, with ripe pear, honeydew, green fig and citrus. COLLECTIBLE 95 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cannubi 2011 $101 ITALY Rich and opulent, with cherry, raspberry, floral and sweet spice flavors combining with the solid structure. The fine, juicy finish echoes the berry fruit. SMART BUY 92 Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Province 2014 $23 NEW ZEALAND Impressive and delicious, evoking the supple, fleshy texture of biting into a ripe white peach. Features plenty of mouthwatering acidity. BEST VALUE 90 Bodegas Burgo Viejo Rioja Crianza 2012 $13 SPAIN This lively red is fresh and focused, with black cherry and red plum flavors, backed by vanilla, toast, floral and mineral notes.…

Tony Mantuano points to Europe for the inspiration behind this dish. “My training was in Italy,” he explains. “That influences everything on the menu. We try not to interpret as much as import techniques, flavors and so on.” The centerpiece of this dish is a sizable piece of sturgeon cooked in a wood-burning oven Mantuano has had for 31 years. Though well-known as the mother of caviar, sturgeon are not commonly seen at fishmongers here. They are worth looking for, though: “We get ours from the Pacific Northwest and farms in California. It’s a full, meaty fish that can stand up to the oven. It doesn’t behave like seafood. It’s a little like pork or veal. It can take a good, hard sear.” Tony Mantuano SPIAGGIA 980 N. Michigan Ave.,…

Both of Michael Cimarusti’s Los Angeles restaurants cast across the continent for inspiration. This New Jersey native spent summers with his grandparents in Rhode Island, and so named the coolly elegant fine-dining venue Providence after the state’s capital. Cimarusti’s hip and casual modern fish shack is called Connie and Ted’s, named after his grandparents. “Everyone is connected to the sea,” he says. “Digging clams is a right. Likewise fishing. People remember fishing for sustenance. All those memories contribute to my restaurants.” Other contributions come from Cimarusti’s experience at Water Grill and Spago in L.A., Le Cirque in New York and Arpège in Paris, among others. Between respect for the fruits of the sea and understanding of technique and flavor, he has forged an ethic that works at fine and casual…

Ablue-collar port city, home to numerous manufactur-ing industries, Oakland has long ex-isted in the shadow of the more glamorous San Francisco, just across the bay. The gap between the two is narrowing, however, as neighbor-hoods near the waterfront have seen the rise of destination dining and the arrival of urban wineries. Jack London Square is Oakland’s most identifiable landmark, a bustling mix of retail and restaurants along the waterfront, while the skyscrapers of downtown and other popular neighborhoods, such as uptown, Rockridge and Piedmont Avenue, reside inland on the other side of the freeway. The blocks around the square reflect Oakland more broadly: Often branded as rough-and-tumble, the city is evolving into an increasingly diverse metropolis where cultures have fused. With an influx of new residents and waves of investment,…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 95 Croft Vintage Port Quinta da Roêda 2012 $48 PORTUGAL This shows a peppery note to the dark plum and cherry tart flavors, with hints of dark currant and graphite. Elegant, with plenty of grip and bittersweet chocolate details on the finish. Drink now through 2040. 250 cases imported.—K.M. 95 Escarpment Pinot Noir Martinborough Kupe Single Vineyard 2013 $69 NEW ZEALAND Complex, concentrated and intriguing, with fleshy blackberry and plum flavors at the core, showing highlights of black walnut, sandalwood, dried pine needle, black pepper and musky Darjeeling tea. The tannins are refined and plush, and the finish is epic. Drink now through 2030. 500 cases…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world and the results of special tastings reported on in greater depth elsewhere in the issue. Complete tasting notes are provided for all new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Additional reviews appear on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. If no reviewer’s initials appear, the wine was tasted by a panel of Wine Spectator editors. James Laube California Harvey Steiman Australia, Oregon, Washington Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus Argentina, Austria, Chile, Germany, Portugal Bruce…

ARGENTINA Red 91 Familia Zuccardi Finca Los Membrillos La Consulta 2012 $120 A big, muscular red, with a fresh and vibrant mix of dried raspberry, cherry tart and plum pudding flavors, offering plenty of dried and savory spice notes. The long finish delivers plenty of mineral and forest floor accents. Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2019. 75 cases made.—K.M. 90 Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Brioso Agrelo 2011 $45 A ripe and rich red, with concentrated flavors of plum, dried blackberry and cherry tart, accented by baker’s chocolate and Asian spice details. The creamy finish is plush, with broad-textured savory notes. Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Drink now through 2018. 150 cases made.—K.M. 90 Familia Zuccardi Cabernet Sauvignon Uco Valley Q 2012 $20 Finely crafted, with touches of…