Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2019 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

This is a cheeky version of the Blood and Sand, a classic cocktail typically made with equal parts Scotch whisky, orange juice, sweet vermouth and Cherry Heering (a cherry-flavored liqueur from Denmark). The original is often criticized for its lack of balance and murky appearance. “It’s the worst of the classic cocktails,” scoffs Underdog Head Bartender Josh Baker. Baker’s version recalibrates the original’s proportions and lengthens the drink with Italian blood-orange soda. The result is a fizzy, brightly hued punch reminiscent of a tiki drink, but with Scotch at its core. —Kara Newman RED TARTAN Courtesy Josh Baker, head bartender, Underdog, New York City 1½ ounces blended Scotch whisky (Baker recommends Dewar’s White Label)1 ounce orange juice½ ounce Cherry Heering liqueur½ ounce sweet vermouth¼ ounce lime juice¼ ounce simple…

Picture yourself in a fancy restaurant known for its wine list. The host hands you a heavy leather volume, or maybe an iPad, to peruse pages upon pages of bottle selections. Maybe you’re in the mood for something specific, so you navigate to the category you want. From there, you focus on a country, a grape and finally, you make a selection from 10–12 bottles. But if you don’t have a predetermined wine in mind, you’re left guessing what your companions like and what will complement their meals. Sure, the floor sommelier can help, and it’s exciting to have so many options, but it can also add a layer of complication and intimidation. Enter the small wine list. If a big tome conveys gravitas and leather-bound luxury, a small…

For decades Oregon’s white wine reputation depended almost exclusively on Pinot Gris. Good as those wines have become, vintners have made stunning progress in both the north and south of the state with a variety of white grapes. Chardonnay and Riesling abound in the Willamette Valley. Examples like the High Wire Chardonnay from Bethel Heights offer textural wines that are a testament to the power of the old vines in the area. Some producers are looking to the past for inspiration, like with Keeler’s Terracotta Amphorae Riesling, which uses the clay vessles during fermentation to offer a new take on the variety. In Southern Oregon, Albariño, Viognier and white Rhône-style blends are catching on, notably in the Applegate Valley AVA, where Troon is also working wonders with Vermentino. From the…

RED WINES LISBOA 94 Quinta de Chocapalha 2015 CH by Chocapalha (Lisboa). Celebrating the family’s Swiss roots (CH is the abbreviation for Switzerland), this wine comes from the estate’s oldest vines. It is richly endowed with mint and spice flavors, serious tannins and layers of black fruits. This wine is still aging and will be ready from 2020. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 94 Quinta de Chocapalha 2015 Vinha Mãe (Lisboa). This powerful wine offers great fruits, solid tannins and concentration. It comes from a single parcel of vines that imparts richness, structure and balanced, juicy acidity. Drink from 2021. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 92 Companhia das Quintas 2015 Quinta de Pancas Reserva (Lisboa). A selection of the…

Vodka continues to be one of the most popular spirits categories, valued for its pristine, invigorating character and versatility in cocktails. Yet, it remains an elusive spirit to decode. In general, vodka is defined by both what it’s made from and how it’s made. This can span a remarkably wide range. The samples reviewed this month (which were mostly newer releases) were distilled from raw materials including corn, potato, wheat, rye, barley, rice and even fruit such as apple, grape and quince. Some were deliberately made to be light and neutral, others more robust and flavorful. While more subtle than other spirits, it makes you work a little harder to understand what makes it unique. With all that in mind, vodka should not be characterized solely as neutral and flavorless.…

Not only do many of us love chocolate, it’s also a favorite way for many to say, “I love you.” But its history isn’t all sweet. In fact, chocolate started out as a savory ingredient. Cacao beans, which are the base of today’s confection, are from Central America, where they were originally fermented into a beverage mixed with chiles. It was Europeans who added sugar, cocoa butter and milk to create the modern treat. In its sweet form, it’s a perfect match with flavors that range from citrus to nutty and minty. Add a sprinkle of salt for chocolate bliss. PAIR IT When it comes to pairing wine and chocolate, Marcus Gausepohl, wine director at Brennan’s of Houston, suggests “ruling out dry wine unless your cacao content is 75%…

The current generation of Oregon winemakers is moving the state’s viticulture in splendid new directions. While Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris still account for almost 75% of Oregon’s production, impressive growth is afoot for the state’s other top grapes—Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Interest is also on the rise for other varieties, such as Riesling and Tempranillo. But this progress stretches beyond mere grape choice. The state’s pioneers had an “anything goes” philosophy, and today’s game-changing winemakers continue to embrace such thinking. They’re shattering any notion that Oregon is a one-trick wine pony, experimenting with diverse clones, sustainable farming and natural fermentation practices. Leah Jørgensen is exploring the many possibilities of Cabernet Franc. Herb Quady showcases southern Oregon Viognier and Syrah. Isabelle Meunier shines a spotlight on Willamette Valley subregions.…

CHARDONNAY 98 Lynmar 2016 Monastery Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 89. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.4% Price: $55 97 Lynmar 2016 La Sereinité Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 89. abv: 14.3% Price: $70 97 Lynmar 2016 Old Vines Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This white is so good, sumptuous in pear, peach and honey flavors dipped in anise. Lush and creamy, the texture is particularly memorable and beautiful. It has fully integrated the richer elements of fruit with supportive acidity and lingering twists of nutmeg and ginger. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $70 97 Lynmar 2016 Sweeney Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Stone fruit, nutmeg and mineral notes open this lovely wine, which dazzles in high-toned acidity and a persistence of mineral and stony texture.…

RED WINES RIOJA 97 CVNE 2011 Imperial Gran Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 89. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $88 94 Contino 2011 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Ripe blackberry aromas are a touch malty and baked, with earthy depth and a topping of smoky oak. A sinewy palate is both creamy and braced by firm acidity. Well-oaked raspberry and plum flavors finish with notes of cocoa and vanilla. Drink this fine gran reserva from 2020 to 2035. Europvin USA. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $65 93 El Coto 2011 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva (Rioja). Heady aromas of raisin and tobacco come with cedary oak to form a classic Rioja gran reserva nose. A bold but balanced palate blends fresh acidity with deep fruit and integrated tannins. Plum,…

After “what’s the difference between an ale and a lager,” one of the most common questions asked about beer is “what’s the difference between a stout and a porter?” With such strong similarities between their aromas and flavors as well as their structures and balance, it’s difficult to get a grasp on what exactly, if anything, the difference is between the two. The answer is, there are no strict differences. Historically and presently, the two styles are similar in overall profile. In terms of ingredients, brewers often rely on malted barley for porters, while stouts are primarily made from unmalted roasted barley, though those ingredients are not exclusive to either style. Now is the perfect time to cozy up to the style, especially with the range of exciting bottlings available…

Blaufränkisch originated within what was the Austro-Hungarian empire, where it’s still prevalent today. The suffix-fränkisch dates to the early Middle Ages and was used in countries where German was spoken to designate a family of wine grapes considered superior, promulgated by Charlemagne, King of the Franks. It was in 1862 that the name Blaufränkisch first appeared, at an exhibition in Vienna. In 1877, the grape turned up in Germany under the name Lemberger, and then 13 years later in Hungary as Kékfrankos, the literal translation of Blaufränkisch. The grape’s other names from traditional growing regions include Franconia or Frankonia (northern Italy), Frankovka (Croatia, Czech Republic, Serbia), Gamé (Bulgaria), Burgund Mare (Romania), Frankovka Modrá (Slovakia) and Modra Frankinja (Slovenia). It performs best in cool continental climates, where it makes beautiful,…

Let’s be honest: We all have favorites. While you explore the wide world of vinous options, why not also take a deeper dive into the wines you already love? Many are familiar, for instance, with the International Pinot Noir Celebration that breaks out for one weekend each July in McMinnville, Oregon. Now in its 33rd year, the popular event features educational seminars and vineyard tours alongside Pacific Northwest cuisine, winemaker meet-and-greets and some of the best local pours. But the concept has grown over the last decade or so, and additional festivals offer the chance to hone in on a single grape variety and sample its finest styles. SAUVIGNON (JANUARY) Marlborough, New Zealand sauvignonnz.com The Marlborough region has churned out premium Sauvignon Blanc since the late 1900s, and the…

The Westward Whiskey Tasting Room is hopping: People are browsing, tasting, buying. But this isn’t the producer’s distillery-side location in Portland, Oregon. It’s Concourse C at Portland International Airport. A growing number of beverage producers are opening up similar venues in or near airports, creating ideal spots to spend a layover, or to kick off or conclude a trip. Breweries were first to offer such outposts. Ohio’s Great Lakes Brewing Company was one to lead the charge when it established a space at Cleveland Hopkins International Airport. Another was Harpoon, which built a taproom at Boston Logan International, followed by Stone Brewing, with a hangout at San Diego’s airport. In 2016, Westward Whiskey opened what it claims is the world’s first-ever airport spirits tasting room, a sleek, traveler-friendly rendition…

SEMILLON 94 Brokenwood 2011 ILR Reserve Vineyard Selection Semillon (Hunter Valley). From acclaimed Aussie winemaker Ian Riggs in one of Australia’s most historic wine regions, this seven-year-old wine is a lovely example of the age worthy Semillon. Rich, waxy lemon and honey notes give way to a herbal and flinty streak. The palate is seriously focused and tightly wound around a line of zesty, crunchy acidity and a waxy texture. You could happily enjoy this now, but leave it in the cellar for another five to 10 years and watch it evolve to a whole new level of complexity. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 11% Price: $48 94 Tyrrell’s 2012 Vat 1 Semillon (Hunter Valley). This wine offers bright elements of flowers and lemons that are highlighted…

CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX 91 Domaine J. Laurens NV La Rose N° 7 (Crémant de Limoux). Lovely scents of red cherry and plum skin are coupled with an earthy hint of pressed violet on the nose of this fresh and inviting sparkling rosé. A bright and vibrant red color, it’s medium in weight and offers a fine mousse to support the rich red-fruit flavors, while a spicy flourish graces the finish. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $23 91 J. Laurens 2016 Clos des Demoiselles Tête de Cuvée Brut (Crémant de Limoux). Delicate aromas of crushed white peony, lemon verbena, chalk and apple flesh dance in the bouquet of this attractive sparkling wine, while flavors of green apple, yellow plum and lemon zest are direct and mouthwatering.…

My dad really loves wine. His interest began in Argentina; I suspect he realized that he was no match for his friends in the cooking arena, but he could choose wines for their asados (barbecues). Back then, I was too young to drink, but his love of serving wine remained long after we left the country. Now it’s something that we share as a family. Some years ago, the two of us had lunch at an Italian restaurant. As we looked over the menu, he pointed to a sign that displayed the wines available. He then told me something, as if he was passing on a secret. “If you are ever on a date, and the guy is trying to pretend he knows a lot about wines, you tell…