Whisky before the 1770s tasted nothing like the modern-day product. This is because most proto-whiskies were synthesised with the aromatic trans-anethole, the flavonoid compound that gives aniseed, liquorice, fennel and even caraway its distinctive flavour and odour. Not only is anethole a seductive flavour, it is also 13 times sweeter than sucrose. Soluble in water and ethanol, it disguises offensive compounds and transforms acrid distillates into dulcified and delectable beverages.
The anethole-flavoured spirits market, worth more than US$50 billion, includes pastis, absinthe, ouzo, raki, sambuca, and arack. Aniseed and liquorice flavour France’s top-selling brand, Ricard pastis, while ouzo in Greece and raki in Turkey dominate respective country sales.
Aniseed or anise became distilled spirits’ principal collaborator; by the 16th century, it was the leading ingredient for flavouring so-called ‘strong waters’.…
