Innholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2022 i Whisky Advocate

Grappa is often called brandy, but it really isn’t. A traditional spirit from northern Italy, it’s the invention of thrifty farmers who long ago began fermenting and distilling pomace—the skins, stems, seeds, and residual pulp left over after grapes have been pressed for winemaking. Over the generations, this simple agricultural product has been elevated to a higher plane—often to luxury status. While it’s difficult to know exactly when grappa was first distilled, Francesca Nonino, a sixth-generation distiller whose family makes Italy’s most famous grappa label, Nonino, dates it back to 15th century northeastern Italy. “Pomace was just considered the leftovers from winemaking and had very little value, but farmers who preferred not to waste anything understood its value—because it contains sugar and can be fermented and distilled,” she says. “Distilling…

Crate and Barrel Monogrammed Serving Board $50 Composed of white marble and mango wood; 12.25”L x 6.75”W crateandbarrel.com Lynn & Liana Designs Large Acacia $100 Pictured in ocean vibes, other colors available; 20”L x 10 W“ lynnliana.com Williams Sonoma Olivewood Rectangular $70-$150 Available in three sizes ranging from 20” to 28” long. williams-sonoma.com Brooklyn Slate Board with Handles $65 Comes with padded feet and soapstone chalk for labeling; 18”L x 12”W brooklynslate.com…

Non-fungible tokens (NFTs), or digital certificates of ownership, became a hot property across many goods in 2021, and it didn’t take long for whisky to join the fray. With such remarkable growth in whisky investment over the last decade, can the trade in whisky NFTs open up new horizons? Trailblazers envisage a world where collectors need only exchange tokens of ownership representing rare whiskies rather than physical bottles. This would save the need to ship bottles, with the added reassurance that the technology behind the token guarantees the whisky’s authenticity and provenance. “Our goal at BlockBar is to attract a multitude of consumers, from whisky enthusiasts to newfound collectors, while also tapping into an audience of crypto experts and those buying their first NFT,” says BlockBar co-founder Dov Falic, whose…

Catoctin Creek Roundstone Rye Cask Proof Maple Finished 60%/Varies, $90 What’s Inside: 100% rye whiskey finished for about a year in Catoctin barrels once filled with certified-organic maple syrup from Mill Gap Farms in Virginia. Distillery 291 M Colorado Rye 63.45%/Varies, $105 What’s Inside: Aspen wood stave-finished rye whiskey that receives a 4-month secondary finish in Distllery 291 whiskey barrels that previously held maple syrup from Lincoln Country Reserve in Wisconsin. Hudson Short Stack 46%, $55 What’s Inside: Rye whiskey finished up to 6 months in Hudson whiskey barrels that were then used by Woods Vermont Syrup Company to age maple syrup. Kosher certified. Iron Fish Bourbon Finished in Maple Syrup Barrels 43%, $45 What’s Inside: Bourbon finished for 6 months to a year in maple syrup barrels from Griner…

DAILY DRINKER Powers John’s Lane. “It’s such a good representation of classic Dublin pot still whiskey from the heyday of Irish distilling, and it’s generally affordable too.” THE ONE HE DREAMS OF TRYING Inish Turk Beg. “It’s just one that I wished I had purchased the first time I was over in Dublin and I didn’t, and now I’m kicking myself because the price keeps going up on it.” THREE WORDS THAT BEST DESCRIBE HIS RELATIONSHIP WITH IRISH WHISKEY History, tradition, exploration MOST MEMORABLE IRISH WHISKEY MOMENT Revealing the gender of his baby to his drinking mates in Dublin just hours after getting the news MOST EXTREME THING HE’S DONE WITH IRISH WHISKEY Kelley combines his love of Irish whiskey and photography on his Instagram account @vaultedbarley. On a trip…

Whenever Norm Peterson stepped through the doorway on NBC’s “Cheers” and proclaimed “Afternoon, everybody,” his fellow barflies would holler back “Norrrmmm!” in perfect unison. Perfect, that is, apart from Diane (Shelley Long), who was always a beat behind. As Norm, played by actor George Wendt, flapped out of his raincoat and strode across the floor, he would snap back a droll rejoinder to Coach’s inquiry about the world with brilliant comic timing, claim his usual bar stool, and raise a glass of cold suds to his lips. You now might feel the urge to stream a supercut of Norm Peterson making his entrance before we carry on. S’okay, I get it. When you drink with company, it’s often norms—the common noun, if not the name—that shape our drinking behavior. If…

RYE CONTENT 51% Rittenhouse Bottled in Bond 50% • $28 51% Pikesville 55% • $50 51% Elijah Craig 47% • $30 53% Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select 45.2% • $35 56% Wilderness Trail Settlers Select 51.5% • $62 65% Old Forester 50% • $23 70% Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel 47% • $46 70% FEW Spirits 46.5% • $40 80% Finger Lakes McKenzie 45% • $43 95% Tincup 45% • $30 95% Redemption Pre-Prohibition Rye Revival 46% • $30 95% Hudson Do the Rye Thing 46% • $40 95% Bulleit 95 45% • $25 100% Old Potrero 6 Year Old 48.5% • $65 100% Coalition Barrel Proof 54.4% • $130…

Springtime may have arrived, but that doesn’t mean that memories of winter have vanished: In much of the country, cooler nights still remind us of the season that just passed. It’s a time of year that still calls for comforting, richer foods, even as we look toward summertime’s bounty of fresh vegetables and lighter fare. With this in mind, we enlisted the expertise of executive chef Matt Bernero, executive pastry chef Carla Henriques, and bar manager Adam Montgomerie of Hawksmoor, the New York City outpost of the beloved London original, to create a menu that pairs with a range of whiskies. This trio created a meat-focused menu because, as Mongomerie explains, “The depth in flavor and character achieved by aging whisky and beef makes for a natural marriage between the…

The Buying Guide provides ratings of whiskies from around the world with an emphasis on new releases available for purchase in the U.S. Complete tasting notes are provided for all whiskies scoring 84 points or more (on the Whisky Advocate 100-point scale). Lower-scoring whiskies are included at the discretion of the editors, and some may appear exclusively on whiskyadvocate.com. RATINGS AND PRICES Ratings are to provide a relative comparison of quality with reference to both directly competing products and whiskies in general. Price is not a consideration when arriving at ratings. Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price or a representative retail price. Actual retail prices may vary. Whiskies sold in the U.S. have prices marked in dollars; any whisky priced in other currency is not presently available in the…

WHISKY TIME TRAVEL Dear Whisky Advocate, I read with great interest and delight Jonny McCormick’s recent Tasting Lesson [Fall 2021] regarding the triggering of memories and special moments through the aromas of whisky as it relates to the biochemical similarities of aromatic compounds found in old books, leather, and wood. My own “Ratatouille moment” came through a dram of Lagavulin 16 offered to me by my old friend and guitar teacher on a stormy night while trying to work out a Doc Watson finger pick piece. The moment I lifted the glass to my nose, I was immediately transported back to the varnish and oil-soaked workbench of my great grandfather. It was a powerful and pleasant moment triggered by the congeners unlocked by the pouring of the peaty whisky, and…

From floral jasmine and earthy matcha to spiced chai and smoky lapsang souchong, tea is as variable and flavorful as whisky—and when you mix the two together, delicious things happen. “Versatile ingredients like tea really enhance my cocktail repertoire,” says Katie Auth, bartender at Raines Law Room and Joyface in New York City. “Tea’s acidity, bitterness, and tannic qualities can elevate other components in a drink.” Whisky-based Hot Toddies—a mixture of the spirit with hot tea, honey, and lemon—are classic, but cold tea also mixes well with whisky in cocktails. “Cold tea can be used on its own in such drinks as a whisky Highball, or you can make a tea syrup, which is an excellent way to integrate tea into a cold cocktail,” Auth says. “Simply mix together hot…

Capovilla Grappa di Ribolla Gialla Gravner, 51%, $120 Made from the pomace of 100% ribolla gialla grapes from Italian winemaker Josko Gravner, this grappa rests for several years in steel vats. A Japanese whisky enthusiast may be drawn to its aromas of sweet flowers, herbs, and grapes, and its fruity, vegetal, and herbaceous palate with warm, spicy notes on the finish. Nardini Grappa Riserva 3 year old, 40%, $44 This grappa is made from the pomace of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, and friulano grapes from the Alpine foothills of the Friuli region of Italy. Aged in Slavonian oak barrels, it has flavors of almond, cherry, and vanilla, plus toasty notes from the oak and hints of spice, mint, and cocoa that may appeal to a rye or high-rye bourbon…

Ardbeg Corryvreckan The salt and smoke of this single malt would stand up to the bite of the pork peperoncini while amplifying its saltiness. GlenDronach 12 year old Matured in Pedro Ximénez and oloroso casks, this scotch will heighten the creaminess of the ham while providing some spice to enhance its naturally rich flavor profile. W.L. Weller Special Reserve This wheated bourbon will complement the wine notes of the Calabrian salami and allow the garlic and spiced meat to shine while providing a backbone of muted oak and honey to help temper some of the spice. Hibiki Harmony This Japanese blend will tone down some of the spice of the black pepper sorghum salami while balancing the sour notes with honey and white chocolate. Four Roses Single Barrel This high-rye…

When heading out to a place suitable for whisky, taking some along in an insulated canteen can be a handy idea—particularly during the warmer months. We’ve selected five of the best such canteens for keeping your neat pour or cocktail at just the right temperature. Check out our picks—all light, sturdy, and stylish—for sharing a dram or cocktail away from home. Keith Titanium Ti3060 Mess Kit $159 Lightweight and durable, this canteen is made from grade 1 titanium, comes with a carrying pouch, and is dishwasher safe. amazon.com BrüMate Fifth 25 oz. $35 This glass-free vessel is triple-insulated, making it ideal for keeping your favorite whisky cocktail chilled while hanging out by the pool. brumate.com Corkcicle Origins 25 oz. $40 Count on a chilled drink for up to 25 hours…

The Mint Julep is synonymous with the Kentucky Derby. On the first Saturday in May, Kentuckians everywhere feel it’s only proper to have a Mint Julep in hand while belting out “My Old Kentucky Home” before horses and jockeys parade onto the track. At Churchill Downs, more than 120,000 Mint Juleps are served over the course of the day. There’s even a $1,000 version served in a collectible silver julep cup, sponsored annually by Woodford Reserve to benefit charity. While the Mint Julep has been served at every Kentucky Derby since the first one in 1875—the first official souvenir glass was offered at the 1939 Derby after fans absconded with many unofficial glasses the prior year—the drink’s origins are much older. “The Julep is basically a specific type of cordial,”…

It’s a brilliant movie, about a trio of Englishmen on a road trip to scatter an old pal’s ashes in the sea. It’s also a tour de geezer for a bunch of the best actors of an aging generation, so go downloading. The title is a play on the deceased’s final request and the Brit version of what we refer to as “last call” in the U.S. The movie called to mind the worst last call I’ve ever suffered, along with the oddest liquor law. ‘Twas the Saturday after Thanksgiving in Seattle during the Johnson administration—Lyndon, not Andrew—and I was standing behind two old pals on barstools in a boite we’d never frequented before. We were talking about the Sunday dryness of the town and how the locals had just…

From mainstream to farmto-glass expressions, the world of rye whiskey presents a wealth of choices. It’s a far cry from a decade ago, when rye drinkers’ options were limited to only a handful of labels. And despite its reputation as a wildly spicy spirit, rye comes in all sorts of flavor profiles—from boldly spiced to sweet and mellow. We’ve created this guide for whiskey lovers to navigate rye’s tasty terrain. Under $30 Old Forester 50% • $23 RYE IN MASHBILL 65% WA RATING 88 Fruity, nutty, cinnamon, orange, ginger, pecan, rich chocolate, and chile pepper Bulleit 95 45% • $25 RYE IN MASHBILL 95% WA RATING 88 Sweet vanilla, honey, tropical fruit, citrus, peppery spices, caraway, and licorice George Dickel 45% • $25 RYE IN MASHBILL Not disclosed WA RATING…

For Jeff Lewis, buying a bottle of whisky but not opening it is a hard concept to swallow, so it’s safe to say that the bottles he scored as a result of winning Whisky Advocate’s 2021 Top 20 sweepstakes won’t stay sealed for long. “I typically have five to six varieties open at any given time,” he says. “[My wife Zoe and I] have read the tasting notes of each of the Top 3 whiskies, and they all sound amazing—we’ll definitely be opening them.” Along with a bottle of the 2021 Whisky of the Year, Lagavulin 11 year old Offerman Edition: Guinness Cask Finish, Harris will be receiving a bottle of Maker’s Mark Wood Finishing Series 2021 Release: FAE-01 and Teeling Blackpitts, supplementing his shelves with single malt scotch, Kentucky…

Whiskey can naturally have the flavor or texture of syrup, but distillers are now adding a touch of additional sweetness to their bourbons and ryes. Take the approachability of flavored whiskey, remove the added sugar, up the proof, toss in an element of craft collaboration, and you have syrup-finished whiskey. Iron Fish Distillery in Michigan has embraced maple flavors, inspired by the state’s robust maple syruping activity. “Our vision from the very beginning was to incorporate maple in a variety of product extensions that embraced the heritage of Northern Michigan,” says co-founder Richard Anderson. Taconic Distillery in New York’s Hudson Valley takes a similar approach, working with a nearby syrup producer for its Double Barrel Maple bourbon. Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery, also in the Hudson Valley, has offered a maple syrup-finished…

Matthew Kelley would like to clarify that his son is not named Dingle. In April 2019, Kelley had plans to visit Ireland for the launch of Dingle’s first single malt. An avid Irish whiskey fan, he couldn’t wait for the trip. That same year, Kelley and his wife Ashley learned that they would be expecting their first child together, with the doctor’s visit that revealed the baby’s sex occurring on the same day his plane was to depart. The two agreed to wait until he returned to South Carolina to share the news with their family, but with a sonogram image tucked inside his passport, Kelley had to tell someone. “Being impatient and wanting to share the news, 10 hours later, I’m huddled up in a pub over in Dublin,…

In the early days of craft whiskey distilling, it was common for aspiring distillers to set themselves in opposition to the big players. All sorts of wild claims were made. Craft spirits will be so much better, they predicted, and the spirits giants will die practically overnight. It hasn’t happened, because the premise was never true. What the big distillers lacked in the whiskey space was innovation and creativity, not quality. Innovation usually meant novel packaging, a slightly non-standard bottling proof or age claim, or yet another tedious round of forgettable cocktail recipes. At first, the craft folks struggled to make good on even their most basic promises. Too often, we were sold overpriced liquid that was rough, unaged, or underaged and needed all the creativity of the emerging craft…

The 21st century’s cocktail culture has had a fellow traveler—rye whiskey. In fact, it can be argued that rye, with its bold flavors that stand up so well in mixed drinks, has been the catalyst for the entire cocktail boom. In any case, rye mixology certainly encapsulates America’s ongoing whiskey renaissance, from its very beginnings to the current day. “When I grew up in the business there were not many choices [for rye],” says Mike Vacheresse, who has been bartending for over three decades and is the current owner of Travel Bar in the Carroll Gardens neighborhood of Brooklyn. Today, with eager mixologists whipping up new recipes for cocktail classics of a bygone era, the call has gone out for all sorts of rye whiskeys. Most American distillers are now…

Frey Ranch Bottled in Bond 50% • $60 WA SCORE 93 RYE TYPE Prima RYE SOURCE Frey Ranch’s own farm in Fallon, Nevada MASHBILL 100% rye Catoctin Creek Roundstone Rye Cask Strength 60% • $90 WA SCORE 92 RYE TYPE Ryman, Haslett, and Brasetto RYE SOURCE Leesburg, Virginia and Lancaster, Pennsylvania MASHBILL 100% rye Hudson Do The Rye Thing 46% • $40 WA SCORE 90 RYE TYPE Not specified winter rye RYE SOURCE Hudson Valley, N.Y. MASHBILL 95% rye, 5% malted barley Dad’s Hat 47.5% • $55 WA SCORE 88 RYE TYPE Danko and Prima RYE SOURCE Meadowbrook Farms, Riegelsville, Pa. MASHBILL 80% rye, 5% malted rye, and 15% malted barley Leopold Bros. Three Chamber Bottled in Bond 50% • $250 WA SCORE 88 RYE TYPE Abruzzi RYE SOURCE A…

Less than a decade ago, a tour of Tennessee’s whiskey distilleries would have taken you to Jack Daniel, George Dickel (now Cascade Hollow), and family-owned Prichard’s, and that would have been it. Tennessee distilling remained within this small circle of three until the mid-2000s—despite the state being home to the world’s biggest-selling American whiskey, Jack Daniel’s, and laying claim to distilling roots dating back to 1771. The reason for this oddity can be summed up in one word: temperance. Just prior to the Civil War, Tennessee was producing enough whiskey for the Confederate government to place a wartime ban on production in order to maintain grain supplies. In the post-war years, the temperance movement gathered steam, and by the time Prohibition was enacted in 1920, some 33 states already were…

Best Values Whiskies with solid scores, modest prices, and wide availability. BLENDED IRISH 92 The Whistler Imperial Stout Cask Finish (Batch 002), 43%, $40 Deploying sherry casks seasoned with O’Hara’s Brewery’s stout, this delivers a delightful balance of fresh fruit and chocolate notes, with aromas of sweet vanilla, malt, coffee, orange, and melon. Charming sherry and light berry notes initially, a beautiful slow-paced development from the stout influence ensues, as the texture thickens satisfyingly with citrus, gentle spices, vine fruit, ginger nuts, crystalized pineapple, malty chocolate, and mocha. (3,000 bottles for the U.S.)—JM BLENDED SCOTCH 90 Cutty Sark 12 year old, 40%, $27 Returning this stalwart, the first new Cutty Sark since La Martiniquaise took charge of the ship, seemed a safe bet, but they’ve done it so well. Apricot,…

Seven oaks were felled in Kylebeg Wood in 2015 for the virgin Irish oak hogsheads used in this fourth Dair Ghaelach release, part of a project dating back to 2008 uniting themes of biodiversity, sustainability, and traceability around Irish oak. Whiskeys matured for 13 to 25 years in first-fill and refill American oak bourbon barrels were finished in these lightly toasted Irish oak casks for 15 months, the open structure of the wood readily adding color and flavor to the single pot still whiskeys. Across the release, we found a spectrum of whiskey aromas but a consistency of caramel, fruit, and toffee flavors on the palate, with subtle differences in sweetness and spice. 92 Midleton Very Rare Dair Ghaleach Kylebeg Wood (Tree 5), 56%, $340 A delicious nose of heather…