Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2019 i Wanderlust

We’re feeling very old here at Wanderlust Towers as we celebrate this, our 200th issue. But with that great age comes great wisdom (well that’s what we tell ourselves anyway). So, we have pulled together 200 of our own travel ‘secrets’ and that of many other travel experts, and they’re scattered throughout the whole issue – starting on this very page. We could have filled a book so whittling the list down was very difficult. I’ve included some of my own secrets in this issue too: the front cover and the Wonder of the World (p186), are both about unexpected places that blew me away, as did North Macedonia’s Lake Ohrid (above). We know you’ll have your own secrets too, whether of places or practical travel tips, so please do…

Taking a great shot of the northern lights is high on any traveller’s to-do list. But how do you get it? Escape the light pollution of the cities, equip yourself with a camera and tripod and head north to mountainous Saaris elkä or Lake Inari, where you’ll find great vantage points and opportunities to snap the colourful reflection of the shifting lights on the water. Hunt them down by signing up to the Finnish Meteorological Institute’s auroras Now! website (aurorasnow.fmi.fi) for e-mails on when the magnetic conditions of the Finnish skies are at their best. But if you’re still not sure about heading out solo, book yourself on to a photo expedition with professional aurora hunters and learn their secrets to capturing the green lights – and hopefully get the…

SECRET 9 COASTAL CAPER ROCK THE BOAT IN NORWAY Hop on board the postal boat that serves some of Norway’s little-visited islands, where basking seals and swooping eagles are the only crowds you’ll encounter. On Discover The World’s Island Hopping Along Norway’s Fjord Coast trip, you’ll explore the land and sea between Bergen and Ålesund by local ferry, kayak, bus, bike and mailboat – with the option to hire a car too. Slow travel at its best, the itinerary also allows for following wild hiking trails, discovering small fishing communities, photographing spectacular sea bridges and visiting the Norwegian Deer Centre to observe these elegant native animals. Who? Discover The World (01737 888442; discover-the-world.com) When? Selected dates, June–August 2020 How long? 7 nights How much? From £1,036 (including int’l flights) 10…

AT A GLANCE Tokyo Population 13.9 million Total area 2,188 sq km Famous for: Food, futuristic architecture and fun night life Kyoto Population 1.4 million Total area 827 sq km Famous for Temples, shrines and traditional gardens 24 TRAVEL SECRET If you’re travelling from Tokyo to Kyoto by shinkansen (bullet train), make sure you sit by a window on the right-hand side of the train: about 40 minutes into the journey, you’ll get the best views of snowy Mount Fuji. TOKYO KYOTO…

PLACES Go in search of hidden gems by travelling to lesser-visited destinations around the world with these top tips from our travel experts 31 Recharge at the Towpath Café in east London Sophie Darlington, wildlife filmmaker Every spring the Towpath Café on London’s Regent s Canal near Haggerston quietly opens its shutters and you can find the most delicious seasonal food served there until late autumn. After a shoot it’s where I head to recharge and watch the wildlife and the light refracting on the water. @sophie_darlington_picture_co 32 Step back in time at the Kings Weston estate in Bristol Dan Linstead, former editor, Wanderlust My backyard overlooks the sprawling Blaise and Kings Weston estates in north Bristol. In the 18th century, their woodlands, river-carved gorges and views…

67 Angkor Don’t join the thousands to see dawn rising over the West Gate. Instead visit the emptier East Gate and enjoy a peaceful, magical half hour. 68 Kampot Caves in the hills near this relaxed former French river port are filled with golden Buddhas and thousand-year-old Khmer temples. The most arresting is at Phnom Chhngok. 69 Cardamom Mountains Tigers, clouded leopard and wild elephants live in the remote rainforest south of Battambang. Trips into the deep forest are organised via hostels in Koh Kong. 70 Battambang Bamboo Train Swap the specially-built tourist bamboo train for the real thing, and whizz alongside rice paddies on a makeshift platform set on old tank wheels. Leaving from near Wat Sara Woan, and running along the Battambang to Phnom…

WALKS Whether a gentle stroll, a long hike or a 3-day trek, walking is a great way to find unexplored territory. Here are just some of those recommended trails. 82 Hike a biological hotspot in Angel’s Tundra, Ecuador Stephan Küffner, author, The Rough Guide to Ecuador & The Galápagos Easy hikes in Ecuador’s Páramo del Ángel (Angel’s Tundra). protected area allow you to explore a landscape worthy of a Star Wars film, dotted with high-altitude lagoons and mysterious forests of polylepis trees with paper-like bark. Above all, tall, fuzzy, rabbit-eared frailejones – a rare plant and distant relative of the sunflower – dominate this biological hotspot. When the fog clears, the view goes all the way from the Colombian border in the north to the equatorial glacier…

151 Argencove chocolate Granada’s artisan chocolate maker uses the finest cacao from around the country, mixing it with local ingredients such as passion fruit and cashews. 152 Surf central In-the-know surfers head to Popoyo for its long stretches of deserted beach and virtually guaranteed surf. 153 Indio Maíz biological nature reserve For the ultimate jungle adventure, this remote wildlife-rich reserve is the biggest expanse of rainforest north of the Amazon basin. 154 Estelí’s cigars After the Cuban revolution, tobacco seeds were smuggled in to Nicaragua in women’s handbags. Now the city of Estelí leads the world in premium, hand-rolled cigars. 155 Pearl Cays On this string of tiny palm-covered islands, there’s nothing much to do but swing daily in a hammock, swim in the Caribbean,…

SMELLS FISHY “When I was in Crete I thought I was saying ‘no fish’ as I am allergic. But the waiter came out with a plate full of fish. They thought I said, ‘dishes with fish’.” Selina Rowse LOOKING AN ASS “During a visit to Peru, I politely asked if I could have some ‘burro’. I now know that Spanish for butter is ‘mantequilla’... and that ‘burro’ means ‘donkey’.” Paul Strange IT’S THE BOMB “In Barcelona we ordered two pastries that we thought were called ‘bomberos’. It turns out we wanted ‘bombas’ – and we had asked for firemen.” Donna Michael Go online to share your travel tales on our next topic: ‘Lost in transit’…

Milly Youngman, Social Media Executive at Exodus Travels, shares some lesser-known travel tips... 176 For outdoor adventures in Montenegro, head inland to uncover some of Europe’s most pristine mountains and enamouring national parks. In Eastern European cities, seek out the self-service canteens, where food quality is surprisingly high for the price you’ll pay. Local dishes reign supreme – without tourist-inflated price tags. 178 One of the essential things I carry when hiking or camping is a small roll of electrical tape – ideal for temporarily fixing broken shoes or tent poles. 179 To see the Canadian Rockies from a whole new perspective, embark on a heli-hiking expedition. It’s a truly special experience.…

192 Land of the Dawn-lit Mountains Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent Simon & Schuster, £10 Rocking up to Arunachal Pradesh –one of India’s most tightly controlled places – by motorbike isn’t the norm. Antonia, however, does exactly that, revving through remote valleys as she seeks the wilderness of the title. What she finds is a mythical land, where flying shamans, opium farmers and demons are right at home. (2017) 193 Revolutionary Ride: On the Road in Search of the Real Iran Lois Pryce Nicholas Brealey Publishing, £11 Rather than ignore a note strapped on to her motorcycle, Lois rides 3,000 miles from Tabriz to Shiraz – all against the advice of her family. On her way, she meets war veterans, drug addicts and housewives alike, chronicling the warmth at the heart…

The wader-clad fisherman was thigh high in the fast-flowing river, as he cast his line for salmon in the soft morning light. It was a sight one might expect in the Highlands, but I hadn’t anticipated seeing it just a few minutes walk from Inverness city centre. However, Ness special for the first claimed sighting of the Loch Ness Monster, back in AD565. Legend has it that Saint Columba banished a “water monster” from the river, and it fled upstream to Loch Ness. If ‘Nessie’ had fled a few miles in the other direction she’d have found herself in the dolphin-rich Moray Firth, as Inverness is at the northern end of the Great Glen, where the Highlands meet the coast. It is the northernmost city in the UK, and it…

Get orientated With its dazzling blue houses, honey-hued ramparts and mighty red-ochre city gate, Oudaïa Kasbah is the jewel of Rabat’s architectural riches – but the crowds seem yet to catch on to it. Built largely in the 12th century by the Almohad caliphate, a powerful Berber-Muslim empire, this coastal citadel has withstood invasions, modernisation, and even the best efforts of the Atlantic Ocean to break down its walls. Its warren of narrow streets make getting lost a joy, though the kasbah’s so tiny (just a few hundred square metres) you’ll retrace your steps in no time – discovering sleepy tea houses, a 869-year-old mosque and tranquil gardens along the way. This is the season to explore: in autumn, the climate hovers around 19°C, while the waters of Rabat Beach…

Steve Backshall Interview TV adventurer Steve has always been fascinated by untouched territories. On p30, he reveals his hair-raising near-death experiences, the wild world of Bhutan and where he’s off to next… Where I was in 1993: “Travelling solo around the Philippines while on break from uni. There was a hurricane on the island of Mindanao and I was holed up for weeks in a fishing village. No one spoke any English!” Paul Bloomfield Secrets wildlife Wildlife enthusiast Paul’s first assignment for Wanderlust was 15 years ago – since then, he’s been following tracks of a different kind. On p99, he lifts the lid on his top ten wild experiences that beat the classics. Where I was in 1993: “I set out on a shoestring trip through Asia. Luckily, despite…

6 ORANKI ART PARK Originally designed as a secret outdoor exhibition, Oranki Art park is full of sculptures and faces carved into trees. They may evoke a Game of Thrones episode, but with the art at the mercy of the wilds, you never know what you’ll see. 7 WILDLIFE WONDERLAND Get acquainted with all sorts of Arctic animals at Ranua Wildlife Park. Arctic foxes, wolverines and lynx all roam here – and the only polar bears living in Finland, too. Bring a torch – the park stays dark for the wellbeing of the wildlife. 8 BERRY GOOD Until October, keen foragers can find juicy berries and mushrooms studding golden Lappish forest floors. Join a guided walk to make sure you’re picking the right ones, then eat or cook them. Get…

“There wasn’t a single moment that didn’t completely blow my mind” Your new project, Expedition, is all about discovering unexplored places. What gave you the idea? I first thought of it in the late 1990s: I wanted to prove that there are still undiscovered final frontiers on our planet – and not just in the deep oceans or under a microscope, but in places that people genuinely haven’t been to before. It took 20 years to get it off the ground, but we finally got funding. Over the course of a year we did ten expeditions, each of which comprised of some kind of first. It’s the sum of my life’s work and it felt pretty extraordinary. Why is travelling to untouched territories so appealing to you? I have always…

The flames crackled in time with the slow, melodic chanting of the Buddhist monks. It was 5am and dark outside, but the tall candles lit the temple’s room in an eerie half-light. The head monk, kneeling on a platform and dressed in flowing gold robes, lent forward to add another piece of wood to the fire. As the flames grew, so too did the chanting: surging louder and faster until it crescendoed in a frantic, furious beat. And then, all of a sudden, it was silent. This ritual, designed to expel negative desires, takes place every morning at the 1,000-year-old Gyokuzoin Temple in Nara Prefecture, and something only the overnight guests get to witness. This is what staying at a shukubo – a traditional temple lodging – is all about:…

Visit Jersey is offering one lucky winner the chance to win a two-night stay for two at The Atlantic Hotel in Jersey. It includes return flights with British Airways, a three-course dinner on the first night and a foraging masterclass from executive chef Will Holland, including a three-course lunch. For your chance to win, simply answer the following question: What’s the capital of Jersey? (a) St. Anne (b) St. Peter Port (c) St. Helier To enter and for full terms, conditions and data policies, go to wanderlust.co.uk/competitions or send your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p9) and state ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust, Visit Jersey and The Atlantic Hotel. The closing date is 9 October 2019.…

115 The classic: Meet friendly grey whales in the Sea of Cortez, Baja California, Mexico The alternative: Greet huge sperm whales off Dominica The first warning of the giants’ arrival is a click from the hydrophone – and another, and another, closer and closer together. Then a cluster of vast, dark shapes, like a squadron of submarines, appears beneath the surface. Lowering yourself silently into the clear Caribbean Sea, you hold your breath as the world’s largest and loudest toothed predators approach. Growing to over 18m long, with its distinctive square head, stumpy dorsal fin and slender jaw crammed with some 52 massive teeth, you’ll know a sperm whale when you see one. Or, as is the case around Dominica, several: perhaps 300 individuals feed, breed and calve in these…

PACIFIC COAST Those looking for Costa Rica’s legendary pura vida – the pure life – should head to the Nicoya Peninsula, towards the north of the Pacific coast. The locals’ longevity has inspired mindfulness and wellness retreats, dotted among fine-sand beaches and small villages. Around Nosara Beach,  easy-going yoga and surf hangouts sit alongside boutique hotels. It’s easy to live a pure life here, where rainbow-hued birdlife flits above you, including wild scarlet macaws, hummingbirds and blue-crowned motmots. There’s often a sleepy sloth up a tree, too. Further south, visit Marino Ballena National Park between July and October to spot humpback whales. And the jungle-fringed inlet of Golfo Dulce is great for snorkellers, where warm waters attract breeding orca and dolphins. Inland, the Osa Peninsula is home to 3% of…

1 UNESCO Missions As well as marvelling at the Alamo, explore another of Texas’ first UNESCO sites – the nearby San Antonio Missions National Historical Park. Here you’ll find many more impressive Spanish fortresses. 2 Natural Bridge Caverns Head 40 minutes outside the city to discover one of the premier show caves in the world. Take a tour 155m below ground where you’ll find underground chambers with spectacular stalactite and stalagmite formations. 3 Authentic events See San Antonio’s diversity at cultural events like Fiesta San Antonio, Dia de los Muertos and the San Antonio Stock Show & Rodeo. Explore more festivities in the culinary and cultural Pearl District. 4 Southtown  This Cultural Arts District is a creative hub home to galleries, chic restaurants and the striking Ruby City art centre.…

168 Drink the water! Probably the most common travellers’ concern is to do with water quality, yet buying bottled water is not only environmentally irresponsible, it doesn’t necessarily provide a safe drink. Most town and city water is of a reasonable quality so we don’t need to be over-obsessed with avoiding tap water – but travel with a filter to be sure. Most harmful microbes need to invade us in considerable numbers to cause illness and it is actually poor food handling practises that are far and away the most common routes of travellers’ tummy troubles. 169 Ditch those alcohol gels Solid soap and plenty of water cleans better than gels. This method is also generally gentler on the skin and is environmentally kinder. Lots of travellers use…

185 Label love: Remove old labels from your suitcase before you fly. Fix one neatly-written tag to the outside of your case, detailing your name, contact number, destination address and tour operator. Inside the bag, put a printed copy of your itinerary. 186 Time it right: Checking in early will help ensure your bag travels on the correct plane. If changing flights, your chances of lost luggage increase – especially if time is tight. 187 Take a photo: Before waving goodbye to your checked-in bag, take a photo – if it goes AWOL, you’ll have a record of what it looks like. Savvy travellers personalise bags with colourful ribbons or straps. 188 Keep your luggage receipt: When you check in your bag, you’ll be handed a sticky label or paper…

This issue: Gear that’s Green KEEN X SHERPA Innate, £140 * This PFC-free waterproof walking boot is made from sustainable and enviro-certified leather. Plus, £15 from each sale goes to charity Room to Read – helping children in developing countries learn to read and write. keenfootwear.com LOWE ALPINE Bag for Life, £6.50 Great for folding up in your luggage and using at local markets, the Bag for Life is made from fabric offcuts from the backpack maker. With each bag sold, 50p goes to helping young people access the outdoors. lowealpine.com MAMMUT bioRe Cotton T-shirt, £35 * The entire manufacturing chain of these tops is traceable – from the organic cotton farms in India and Africa (which use 91% less water) to the fair-trade spinning yarns. Every tee marked bioRe…

1 Dolphins in the Moray Firth There’s estimated to be about 130 bottlenose dolphins leaping through these North Sea waters. Learn more about them at the Scottish Dolphin Centre where guides are on hand to answer your questions. You can also see seals, ospreys and otters from the centre. 2 Culloden Battlefield It is only 15 minutes drive east from town in the direction of the airport, so if flying in or out you may want to visit it then. Otherwise make it your first stop of the day to beat the crowds; it opens at 9am in summer 10am in winter (£11). 3 Dornoch About an hour’s drive from Inverness, The Barn Owl Bothy in Dornoch is a great wee find. Local artisans contribute to this…

Wanderlust aims to inform and inspire all your travel adventures. We strive to bring you the most trusted and reliable information in the world. That’s why we are always upfront about whether our writers have travelled independently or with a tour company. When a tour operator has been used, we always try to use those who’ve scored a minimum satisfaction rating of 85% from readers in our annual awards and we never guarantee positive coverage. Responsible, conscious and sustainable travel is at the heart of everything we do. Website Discover more great content at www.wanderlust.co.uk Twitter Catch up on the latest travel gossip @wanderlustmag Instagram See behind the scenes @wanderlustmag Facebook Join the chat at www.facebook.com/ wanderlusttravel magazine Newsletter Sign up to our newsletter for offers, inspiration and all the…

Recalling a trip to Antelope Canyon: “I think I took 400 photos in three hours.” @mikegurrey Recalling Japan’s sights: “We visited Yudanaka to see the snow monkeys and Matsumoto Castle, one of the most amazing buildings I’ve ever seen.” Anne Robinson Making a case for rail trips in Switzerland: No matter where you go in Switzerland by train it will be amazing.” @rcartman28 Shining a light for Jordan: “Petra by candlelight is absolutely magical – a must-do!“ John Devereux…

200,000 The number of reindeer in Lapland – they vastly outnumber the human population (180,000). Perhaps it’s not surprising then that reindeer dominates the Finnish menu. 500,000 Roughly the amount of letters sent to Rovaniemi’s post office (located near to a log cabin whose first guest was former First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt) for the attention of Santa. Elves work around the clock to sort these out. 1945 The year Finnish architect Alvar Aalto started to reconstruct Rovaniemi after it was destroyed during the Second World War. Look at a street grid and see how a reindeer’s head starts to take form!…

19 John Gregory-Smith, Lebanon Food writer/presenter Secret dish: Kibbeh nayeh is the national obsession of Lebanon. Traditionally it’s a mix of incredibly fresh, raw goat meat that’s been ground extra fine so it’s almost a paste, and then mixed with bulgur wheat. It’s seasoned with salt and pepper and served with lemon. The meat melts like butter and has such a rich flavour. It’s incredible. John’s Fire and Spice: Fragrant Recipes from the Silk Road and Beyond (Nourish; £25) is out on 8 Oct. 20 Fuchsia Dunlop, China Food writer Secret dish: In China’s Anhui province you get hairy tofu (mao doufu). The tofu grows this thick snow-white mould that looks like a fur coat, but it’s smoothed down and pan fried until it turns golden. Served with…

27 Chasing waterfalls Of the throngs who visit annually, fewer than 1% venture more than 100m from a parking lot. Lace up your boots and head out on the backcountry trails where wilderness awaits. Try the hidden hike to Little Gibbon Falls, on the way to Wolf Lake, to reach the secret waterfall. 28 Bear-y close The horror of legal hunting loomed for Yellowstone’s grizzlies bears when, in 2018, the Trump administration lifted protection for the bears in and around the park. Happily (for the bears) a federal judge blocked the move, while grizzlies have found themselves back on the protected list for now. 29 Rare flower Botanists keep shtum if they manage to locate a rare and mysterious herb with a delicate creamy flower, the Yellowstone…

G Adventures is offering one lucky winner two places on its eight-day Machu Picchu Adventure tour, as well as £1,200 to cover the cost of return flights. To be in with a chance of winning, simply answer the following question: When did Hiram Bingham first discover Machu Picchu? (a) 1911 (b) 1913 (c) 1915 To enter and for full terms, conditions and data policies, go to wanderlust.co.uk/competitions or send your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p7) and state ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust and G Adventures. The closing date is 13 October 2019.…

Vital statistics Capital: Phnom Penh Population: 16.5 million Language: Khmer Time: GMT+7 Visas: UK and Irish nationals are required to pay $30 on arrival. Money: The Cambodian riel (KHR) is currently around 5,000KHR to the UK£, but the US dollar is the main currency used. There are ATMs in large cities and major towns. Credit cards will not always be accepted. When to go Cambodia is a tropical country with average year-round temperatures ranging between 25°C and 35°C. October to December: The coolest months of the dry season, with temperatures are around 25°C. March and April: The hottest, most humid months, temperatures frequently reach 35°C. May to September: The wet season, with high temperatures around 35°C from May to July. August and September have the heaviest rainfalls. Health & safety…

The author travelled on a tailor-made trip with Journey Latin America (020 3553 9647, journeylatinamerica.co.uk). A 12-day tailor-made trip including two nights on Ometepe Island, two nights on Little Corn Island, two nights on Granada’s isletas on a B&B basis, and two nights in the Solentiname archipelago on a full-board basis, starts from £3,192 per person, based on two sharing. The price also includes domestic flights, transfers and international flights with American Airlines, travelling from the UK.…

181 DANGS Immerse yourself in tribal culture and spend Diwali in a remote Gujarati village. Prepare rangoli with locals, who will show you how to use forest resources, give art demonstrations and cook food for you. You can go trekking and take part in daily activities, too. 182 PURUSHWADI Every June, this remote Maharashtrian village is lit up with the glow of a million fireflies. But on the night of Diwali, villagers light a bonfire, women cook traditional meals and children sing, inviting people to light their lamps. 183 NATHDWARA Centuries-old art depicting the life of Lord Krishna (pictured) is the key attraction of this village on the outskirts of Udaipur. All the buildings are given a fresh lick of paint before Diwali, when idols of the…

191 North Korea Journal Michael Palin Hutchinson, £15 So, how does the nicest man in travel cope with a problem like North Korea? Putting Michael Palin into the centre of the ‘axis of evil’ is a fascinating proposition,as caught years TV series will agree. For those who felt that Michael Palin in North Korea was too short, this day-by-day account provides more detail and context to his two-week journey, as well as the constant behind-the-camera diplomacy that trailed them. What makes his trip unusual is that Palin’s usual winning mix of genuine interest, good-humoured charm and that deceptively steely nose for humbug gets slightly handicapped by the regime’s potent mix of fear and propaganda and control. But how much can he risk by probing, not only for himself and his…

Is the new kit you’re eyeing up truly deserving of its ‘eco’ moniker? Before buying, ask the following questions: • Where was it made? Don’t forget that even if it’s the greenest product in terms of materials and manufacturing techniques, it still has to make its way to you – and that means a carbon footprint. Look to see how far the product (and the ingredients in it) must travel, and then see if the company makes any effort to mitigate this – by working with a carbon offset plan, for example. • How long will it last? This is very important. Buying green gear is a great idea, but if it’s not durable or made from fabrics that aren’t fit for your activity then you’ll have to replace it…

Population: 2.14 million Languages: Uzbek, Russian; some English is spoken in larger hotels. Time zone: GMT+5 International dialling code: +998 Visas: Visa-free for UK passport holders and other EU nationals. Currency: Uzbekistani So’m (UZS), currently around 10,700 to the UK£. ATMs: ATMs accepting Mastercard and Visa are not widely available in Tashkent, though you can find them at the airport and in the lobbies of larger hotels. However, these ATMs are not always working – and they frequently run out of cash. Where available, ATMs typically dispense both UZS and US$: the latter can then be swapped at a foreign exchange counter for So’m. If you prefer not to use ATMs, you can get a cash advance on your card at the major banks located in the city. Credit cards:…