Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2024 i Wallpaper

For some of us, family inheritances tend to be burdensome, taking up space, emotionally and physically, in both our minds and attics. For the London-based designer and architect Joe Armitage, however, a family heirloom has taken him somewhere lighter and brighter, across generations and continents, and into the path of Le Corbusier. This is the story of a lamp designed by Edward Armitage in India 72 years ago, which has today been expanded into a collection of lights by his grandson Joe. ‘My great-grandfather, Joseph Armitage, was a stone carver from Yorkshire, who worked in London from 1910 onwards,’ explains Armitage. He made decorative stonework for buildings like the Bank of England and Windsor Castle, and also for Lutyens’ parliament buildings in New Delhi. This was the start of the…

Loewe and Lladró are two brands with a lot in common. They’re both Spanish, they’re both born out of an obsessive desire to master a particular material (Loewe with leather and Lladró with porcelain), and they’re both exemplars of luxury design. So it seems fitting, then, that the two maisons have finally come together for an exceptional collaboration, launching this autumn: a limited-edition run of porcelain flask toppers for three of Loewe Perfumes’ classic scents. Each fragrance – Loewe 001, Loewe Earth and Loewe Agua Drop – has been selected to represent three different olfactory universes inside the Botanical Rainbow, the name given to the entire collection of 24 nature-inspired fragrances by in-house nose Núria Cruelles (they are recognisable for their multicoloured, block-shaped glass bottles, designed by Loewe’s creative director…

Rather self-deprecatingly, Auka Boipeba describes itself as an inn, though it’s certainly not like any inn we’ve ever been to. Located on Boipeba, a bijou Bahian island off the Brazilian coast, it is the work of São Paulo-based architecture studio FGMF, who have gently inserted 20 suites into a stretch of jungle on the edge of the beach. The brief from the owners, veteran hoteliers Antônio Carlos Berti and Rogério Sasso (who run four other guesthouses on the island), was to work with local materials. They also wanted every suite to have an ocean view, a generous balcony and a private pool. Almost immediately, the architects encountered a problem, realising that the only way for all rooms to face the ocean would be to have ‘a single block intersecting the…

We launched the annual Wallpaper* Smart Space Awards in 2021, partly as a response to our locked-down brains desiring more expansive, innovative and life-enhancing technology, but also as a way to highlight how a focus on longevity, quality and repairability needn’t distract from the sheer diversity of design approaches. The winners that year set a high standard, and we were delighted that the awards grew in stature and scope. The winners of this year’s awards – which were judged by our editor-in-chief Bill Prince, transport & technology editor Jonathan Bell, and business director Kelly Gray – offered us an impressive selection of innovation, sustainability and style. Out of the many outstanding nominees on our shortlist, we were eventually able to agree on our 19 winners. We especially loved Framery’s soundproofed,…

Over the last decade, Bali-based studio Ibuku, headed up by designer Elora Hardy, has become a leading expert in bamboo architecture, its output encompassing everything from a traditional Sumbanese house and a yoga and meditation space to playful treehouses and a riverside café at an eco-friendly jungle retreat in Ubud. In 2021, the studio completed The Arc sports hall at the Green School in Bali (founded by Elora’s father, designer John Hardy). Made from a series of arches spanning an impressive 19m, it was a pioneering feat of bamboo engineering. Perhaps Ibuku’s most famous project is the Sharma Springs residence, which featured in an episode of the Apple TV series Home. Built around a central tower, its various levels pan out like the petals of a lotus flower. In addition…

We first handed over the reins to a trio of guest editors back in 2007 (to Jeff Koons, Dieter Rams and Hedi Slimane, no less) and, over the years, we’ve felt honoured to have some equally visionary thinkers helm their own section of our October issue. This year is no different as we welcome an insight into the minds of three inspiring creatives, all trailblazers in their fields, as they take over in thought-provoking style ST. VINCENT PAGE 178 / PRODUCER: CHARLOTTE GUNN MARCIO KOGAN PAGE 200 / PRODUCER: ELLIE STATHAKI LAILA GOHAR PAGE 230 / PRODUCERS: ROSA BERTOLI AND HUGO MACDONALD…

Styling: Avigail Collins at Forward Artists Make-up: Hinako at A-Frame Agency using Sisley Paris Photography assistants: Milton Smith and César Martinez Digi tech: Tim Mahoney Local production: Lauryn Gerstle at Lightwork Studios Post-production: Lightwork Studios For stockists, see page 305…

Marcio Kogan has been prolific since setting up his namesake studio in São Paulo in 1978 (it was renamed Studio MK27 at the turn of the century). The 72-year-old architect has since become synonymous with contemporary Brazilian chic, offering a sumptuous blend of raw, textured materials; clean geometric forms; effortless functionality; vernacular design features; and a deep knowledge and appreciation of the rich, tropical modernist architecture legacy of his home country. This year marks the 15th anniversary of one of Kogan’s most celebrated residential works – Paraty House, winner of Best New Private House in our 2010 Wallpaper* Design Awards – a mid-career highlight that propelled him to international stardom, but a mere hint of the numerous, striking designs to follow: homes such as Flag House in Canada, Canopy House…

Floral designer: Alina Dheere Lighting assistant: Oscar Eckel Interiors assistant: Archie Thomson Digi tech: Courtney Campbell Retouching: Studio RM For stockists, see page 305…

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Much has changed since Wallpaper* first invited three vaunted individuals to guest edit our October issue (that year, 2007, saw Hedi Slimane, Dieter Rams and Jeff Koons take up the challenge), not least the ease with which any creative can now communicate with a global audience – immediately, at pace, often on a whim. Yet our annual offer to three leading practitioners to organise their thoughts across our multiplicity of platforms remains a constant, driven by a mutually-held curiosity around what develops, and a gnawing suspicion that hyper-personalised, algorithmically alert feeds aren’t the only way to convey a singular point of view. The interdisciplinary approach has paid dividends: by taking a different tack, each of this year’s editors have illuminated areas of their work, and lives, in ways that are…

Doomsday is an evocative word for a grim idea, and it’s hard not to be spooked by the knowledge that the Doomsday Clock is currently set at 90 seconds to midnight. According to its operators – the Bulletin of the Atomic Scientists – who monitor the combined risks of nuclear annihilation, climate disaster, biological threat and disruptive technologies, we have never been closer to global catastrophic destruction since the clock’s founding in 1947. Oof. And yet, humanity has a primal instinct to survive. Anyone in doubt of this bold statement would do well to hotfoot it to Mudac in Lausanne this month, where a compelling new show, ‘We Will Survive’, demonstrates in glorious breadth and depth that we are a resilient species. Or we are doing our utmost to be…

One neighbour refers to Northcote House as the ‘opera’ one. Accessed from an unassuming laneway in the Melbourne suburb of Northcote, it couldn’t be more different – in style, size, situation – to Australia’s more famous opera building, nearly 900km away in Sydney. Perhaps the home’s cantilevered, timber-strutted awning initiated the analogy – a grand gesture on a pint-sized block behind a row of shops. Designed by architects David Leggett and Paul Loh as their own home, the house was years in the making and has received numerous accolades since its completion earlier this year, including an award from the Australian Institute of Architects. The couple spent considerable time prototyping materials for their build from a warehouse in the north-eastern Melbourne suburb of Preston, which is also the main base…

Conceived in 2000 as an international index of emerging architectural talent, the Wallpaper* Architects’ Directory is our annual listing of promising practices from across the globe. While always championing the most exciting new studios, over the years, the project has showcased inspiring work with an emphasis on the residential realm. Now including more than 500 alumni, our 24th edition shines a spotlight on 20 young studios from Australia, Brazil, British Virgin Islands, Canada, China, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, India, New Zealand, Nigeria, Portugal, Singapore, South Korea, Spain, Thailand, Tunisia, UK and US, all offering up plenty of ideas and thought-provoking architecture. For more on these architects and projects, visit Wallpaper.com AD-WO US Alexander Symes Australia Branco del Rio Portugal Brown Urbanism UK Büro Koray Duman US Collaboratorio Finland Fleury Atallah Architectes…

Since the release of her 2007 debut album, Marry Me, the Texan-born, guitar-shredding St. Vincent has continued to reinvent herself, dabbling in synth-pop, hard rock and everything in between. Like Bowie before her, she’s played with, and prodded at, the idea of persona. For the release of 2017’s Masseduction – a time she calls her ‘dominatrix at the mental institution’ era – she dressed only in latex, insisting journalists interview her (decidedly prickly) alter-ego inside a neon pink box. During 2021’s Daddy’s Home, she was a louche, 1970s gangster, in a flared two-piece and blonde bob wig. And for mockumentary The Nowhere Inn, directed by Sleater-Kinney’s Carrie Brownstein, she portrayed a heightened (and hideous) self-obsessed version of herself. ‘It wasn’t great for my career,’ she notes, dryly. Wondering who St.…

The living room of my childhood home in Dallas, Texas, has a mirrored wall. Though usually obscured by my late grandmother’s way-too-big-for-the-room dining table and china cabinet, there were slivers of mirror on either side in which to study oneself. When I was a child, a teen, and then a young adult, I would stand in front of these slivers holding my guitars — astral projecting myself into a future where this ergonomic piece of wood and metal would give me a whole life if only I gave my whole life to it. Whenever I got a new guitar, the first thing I did was excitedly try it on in front of this mirror. What does THIS guitar convey? Is it a weapon or a shield or a portal? How…

Laila Gohar works wonders with food. So it’s a surprise to hear her say that her work is not really about food at all, but rather about human behaviour. Born in 1988 and raised in Cairo, Egypt, Gohar moved to the States in 2009, working in restaurant kitchens and dipping a tentative toe into food journalism, before success emerged thanks to her catering business Sunday Supper, which captured the attention of New York’s art and fashion crowds. Commissions to cater events for the likes of Prada, Hermès and Gucci quickly turned into column inches as word got out about her langoustine towers, artichoke swans, and busts made from butter. From design fairs to fashion parties, she brings food fantasies to life in environments where food is not usually centre stage.…

At the heart of high jewellery collections lies a dedication to showcasing the rarest and most precious gemstones, putting them in the best possible light. For this year’s new releases, high jewellery houses zoned in on colour, eschewing traditional pastels for a generous rainbow of hues, from the muted and abstract to the brilliant and bold. Shimmering prisms are the central focus for Hermès’ creative director of jewellery, Pierre Hardy, who continues his exploration into the brilliant refraction of coloured stones with his ‘Les Formes de la Couleur’ collection. Hardy, who studied colour theory for his art degree, is a master of illusion, conjuring up geometric plays with architectural cuts of an array of precious stones, including rubies, beryls and sapphires. The collection marks the first time in the house’s…

01. Espace Transmission Montreal is a city that lives and breathes performing arts (Quebec is the birthplace of Cirque du Soleil, after all). Enjoy shows, workshops and performances of all kinds at this former garage in the De Lorimier neighbourhood. @espacetransmission 02. Le Violon Montreal chef Danny Smiles’ much-anticipated restaurant opened in June to serious acclaim. Its seafood-focused menu does not disappoint, and neither do Atelier Zébulon Perron’s subtle and refined interiors. le-violon.ca 03. 207 Ouest This new concept store was founded by the owners of ethical jewellery brand Myel, sisters Myriam and Jeanne Élie, who turned to Montreal’s Studio Kiff to come up with a playful space with an industrial edge. 207ouest.com 04. Vogue Hotel Located between the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and Sainte-Catherine Street, this 148-room hotel,…

Free thinker Dior gets into a biker groove with a 1960s-inspired collection The liberated spirit of the Miss Dior line, introduced by Marc Bohan in 1967, infuses Dior’s A/W24 collection. Artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from the fluidity and ease of the line’s garments, reimagining a ‘moment of creative freedom’ in vivid colour and abbreviated, 1960s-inspired silhouettes. For footwear, she turned to the biker boot, which conjures up visions of the open road and a symbolic escape from societal conforms. Meshed here with the ‘house’s couture codes’ (notably a ‘Christian Dior Paris’ emblem, which runs across the decorative strap), the D-Quest boot, in calfskin leather, captures the collection’s spirited mood. It is a vision, says Chiuri, of ‘pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity’, part of her ongoing exploration of…

Studio Anne Holtrop is a practice that revels in uncertainty. Having trained in, or experienced, a number of adjacent disciplines, from engineering to art and architecture, its founder, Dutch-born Anne Holtrop, set up shop in 2010 in Amsterdam, where he worked as an artist’s assistant. ‘Working in the arts gave me a sense of agency, a sense of being able to map out my own path. It gave me the courage to take up architecture as a practice,’ he explains. This freeing sense of flux is a theme that continues throughout his career. Holtrop’s early commissions came from associations made in the art world, including projects such as The Trail House, a 2010 art installation set on a vacant field in Almere, Netherlands, inspired by existing trails and paths across…

There aren’t many interior designers working today who use physical models to guide their decision-making and develop their schemes. Yet for New York designer Giancarlo Valle, these tools are not just key to his studio’s day-to-day operation, but also represent a constant state of flux and experimentation, and a continuation of ideas between each project. This approach to design has remained consistent since he founded his eponymous studio in 2016, as his projects have grown in scale and ambition. ‘It’s quick, it’s intuitive, it’s malleable,’ he says of the clay model-making process. By creating each of their highly detailed maquettes at the same scale, and storing all of them in an archive space at their Canal Street studio, Valle and his team are able to return to earlier designs and…

Towards the end of the 19th century, when Chicago was the fastest-growing city in the world, it was also, arguably, the most architecturally adventurous. Louis Sullivan was creating organically-ornamented towers; Daniel Burnham was building steel-framed mega-blocks; Frank Lloyd Wright was hybridising Arts and Crafts, Japanese and proto-deco Prairie styles; the modern office block and skyscraper were both emerging; and the city’s upper-middle-class houses were a riot of invention and eccentricity. At some point around half a century later, however, the city became enthralled with the work of Mies van der Rohe, newly arrived from Germany and thoroughly worshipped in his adopted home city. Chicago practice SOM began to produce mini-Mieses for the city, and the minimal, Miesian glass and steel block became Chicago’s new architectural motif, steamrollering (almost) everything else.…

Alex Da Corte and I are walking through the Prado in Madrid, surrounded by the treasures of the art world. Yet some, despite their beauty or painterly perfection, are so easy to walk past. Another era. Jesus and Mary. Portraits of nobles, kings and queens. More Jesus and Mary. Alex points out the pre-Renaissance genre of ‘world landscape’, before painters knew how to paint perspective; before there was a vanishing point, before there was scale, where every object in the frame – no matter the importance – carries the same weight. It makes me think of the internet. I say as much to Alex and he laughs. We are not studious tourists or completists. We haven’t brought a checklist. We do not feel compelled to study every brushstroke, read every…

Model: Julia Rambukkana at The Milk Collective Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM Hair: Chloe Frieda using Authentic Beauty Concept Make-up: Sunao Takahashi at St Luke using Dior Forever Foundation and Capture Totale Le Sérum Photography assistants: Fred Barlet, Pablo Gallegos Fashion assistants: Lucy Proctor, Nathan Fox Production assistants: Minna Vauhkonen, Ady Huq, Archie Thomson Retouching: IPP Studio For stockists, see page 305…

X-ray producer: Artemi Kyriacou Set build: London Art Makers Photography assistants: Christina Ene, Laura Heckford Interiors assistant: Archie Thomson Retouching: Jon Gibson-Skinner For stockists, see page 305…