Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2024 i Wallpaper

For the past decade, Mariah Nielson has been working to preserve the heritage of her father, the late sculptor JB Blunk (W*154). Having based herself at his studio in Inverness, California, she has not only been looking at Blunk’s past work, but also exploring how his legacy can inspire curations of future pieces, through exhibitions and special commissions. The latest project is an exhibition featuring 100 hooks, chosen as an example of utilitarian object with a myriad of possibilities. The hooks have been made by an eclectic roster of designers that include industry veterans like Jasper Morrison, Ilse Crawford and Martino Gamper, emerging designers, and artists from different disciplines, from Minjae Kim to Ido Yoshimoto. The exhibition nods to a 1981 project by Blunk, dubbed ‘100 Plates’ and shown at…

ANNE ISABELLA Using largely upcycled fabrics, Berlin-based Anne Isabella Rasmussen takes moments of 1960s and 1970s design and reworks them into a distinctly contemporary wardrobe. FEBEN Known for her twisted, woven garments, Feben looked to artist Carrie Mae Weems for inspiration, screenprinting her own body onto a series of dresses for S/S24. NICKLAS SKOVGAARD Skovgaard creates warped partywear – from sequinned puffball skirts to tassel-adorned gowns – which draws on both Renaissance portraiture and contemporary pop culture. REV Alongside collections defined by a mood of ‘innocence and rebellion’, Rev will also invite seminal 1990s designers, such as Martine Sitbon, to revive past collections in one-off collaborations. TORISHÉJU Torishéju Dumi looks to the iconography and vestments of her Nigerian-Brazilian heritage and Catholic upbringing with layered forms and gently subverted tailoring. TALIA…

The double pillars of time and travel hold equal allure for Swiss brand Vacheron Constantin, which has chosen to mark a long and illustrious history of exploring the limits of both with a new collection of watches. It’s a journey that can be traced back to the company’s inception in the 18th century, when founder Jean-Marc Vacheron’s grandson, Jacques-Barthélemi Vacheron, expressed a keen interest in expanding past the borders of the Geneva-based company into Europe, America, Asia and the Middle East. ‘Vacheron Constantin is rooted in Geneva, which has forever been open to the world, being at the crossroads of cultural and economic development,’ says Vacheron Constantin’s product marketing and innovation director Sandrine Donguy. ‘This openness to the world has pushed Vacheron Constantin to explore new markets that have been…

Porcelain and crystal make beautiful bedfellows as Rosenthal and Swarovski proved when the two luxury brands launched their Signum tableware collection at Salone del Mobile back in 2022. Designed and developed by Swarovski’s creative director Giovanna Engelbert, in collaboration with the German porcelain specialist, the collection includes tea sets, espresso sets and dining ware, decked out in an array of luscious pastel colours and op-art graphics. A stylish celebration of the art of table setting, each piece in the collection is imagined in Swarovski’s signature palette of green, pink, yellow and blue. The Austrian crystal company’s distinctive octagonal framing is interpreted as a sleek graphic motif hand-painted in gold, its design taking inspiration from Austria’s 19th century Wiener Werkstätte decorative arts movement, while lids for jugs, mugs, teapots and sugar…

When chunky chains started dominating this year’s high jewellery collections, the electro-hop beats of Salt-N-Pepa’s 1987 hit Push It pumped around my brain for days. The musical connection also struck a chord with Ehssan Moazen, creative director of Chaumet, one of the oldest jewellery maisons on Paris’ Place Vendôme. ‘Our ‘Tulip’ necklace does have a hint of 1980s streetwear and a touch of punk to it,’ he says of the heavy diamond-set piece from this year’s Le Jardin de Chaumet collection. Yet it’s rare for a jeweller whose business is seriously precious materials to create big, bold pieces that might be confused with street ‘bling’. After all, high jewellery is, by its very nature, designed to last. ‘Being recognised as a traditional house for our history, craftsmanship and the quality…

As we enter 2024, I am delighted to present our Next Generation issue, showcasing our pick of the emerging creatives that are shaping the future. We feature emerging creatives throughout the year, but this special issue provides the platform to shine a spotlight on the new creatives that are shaping tomorrow’s landscape. For our annual Future Icons feature, we have selected 11 designers who come from a diverse range of backgrounds and who are embracing new ways of working and collaborating, experimenting with materials, and playing with traditional design codes to create more abstract forms of furniture and lighting design. Highlights include Rio Kobayashi, who uses traditional woodwork techniques alongside his multicultural heritage to create unexpected and joyful pieces through collaboration and intervention; Giles Nartey, whose research-based practice aims to…

For some time, the necktie has been considered an artefact of a bygone era, one of stuffy corporate wear and forced formality. But the tie seems to be making something of a comeback in recent seasons, its death knell stilled by a new generation of designers who are using the classic accessory to represent something altogether more irreverent. It might be in part down to Matthieu Blazy, at Bottega Veneta, who featured a series of nappa-leather ties as part of a playful riff on corporate wear in his A/W23 collection. In its unexpected fabrication, which conjured up a satisfying frisson of kink, it reflectedhis continuing desire to elevate the quotidian into extraordinary and seductive expressions of design. Much of the tie’s appeal lies in its shape-shifting ability and multitude of…

Punk is given an industrial twist in a new collaboration between jeweller Hannah Martin and Coldplay bassist Guy Berryman, founder of fashion label Applied Art Forms. A creative process that began with a chance meeting (Martin noticed Berryman was wearing one of her earliest earring designs on an LA to London flight) allowed them to indulge in a shared love of modern sculptural forms. Their new collection, A Vanitas, references the darkly suggestive motifs of 17th-century Dutch vanitas paintings. Featuring 11 pieces in 18ct yellow gold and silver, the collection intertwines references to skulls, safety pins and razor blades. ‘I wanted to create objects that felt clean, industrial and exciting, without losing their reference points,’ says Martin. Adds Berryman, ‘It was important that the aesthetic sat comfortably alongside Hannah’s existing…

SERGIY BARCHUK An early childhood spent playing in the woods led the Ukrainian-born, US-based Barchuk to form a strong creative relationship with nature. ‘As our climate becomes increasingly less stable and predictable, I hope to echo the interconnectedness and precariousness of the balance between humans and nature in my work. I’m not aiming to make big statements about the planet or how we arrived at this situation, but hope to remind viewers to slow down and investigate surroundings because a struck match or a cracked egg can be a source of beauty and tranquillity.’ Barchuk works across editorial and commercial and has recently collaborated with the likes of Frieze Jacquemus and Balenciaga. @sergiybarchuk IBRAHIM AZAB A curiosity about how we perceive and process information is central to Azab’s practice. With…

There’s a growing school of thought that our creature comforts might not be as comforting as they are made out to be; that actually what we need to lead happy lives is a certain level of discomfort. Not the underground-at-rush-hour kind of discomfort, but something outdoorsy and elemental, such as exposure to extreme temperatures or cold water swimming. Finnish architect Sami Rintala knows this. His Norway-based studio Rintala Eggertsson has created buildings that are immersed in nature without destroying it, such as the Arctic Hideaway in Fleinvær and Safe House in Kalsholmen. And when he’s not working, Rintala likes nothing more than skiing for miles to his sauna in the forest outside Bodø, building up a sweat and rolling in the snow. One of his latest projects is the Panorama…

For stockists, see page 153 Model: Ashley Radjarame at IMG Casting: Ikki Casting at The Art Board Hair: Anna Cofone using Oribe Make-up: Sandra Cooke using Byredo Interiors: Olly Mason Set build: London Art Makers Photography assistant: Arthur Jung Fashion assistants: Kris Bergfeldt, Samela Gjozi Interiors assistant: Archie Thomson Post production: Retouch and Post…

Candleholders by Edmund Davies, for Permanent Collection These wonderfully textured objects are produced by Edmund Davies, co-founder of Norwich studio Helgate Pottery, for Permanent Collection’s line of understated homeware. After studying architecture, Davies began training at East London pottery studio Turning Earth, which led him to focus on the creative possibilities offered by wheel-throwing. Finding inspiration in beachcombing finds, Mexican craft and Roman artefacts, his restrained approach to glazing and colour is apparent in these stoneware candleholders, handmade from British clay sourced from Staffordshire or Cornwall and available in two colours, Flint or Sand. Pair with a beeswax candle for a strikingly ascetic aesthetic. Candleholder in Flint, from £72, by Edmund Davies, for Permanent Collection, permanentcollection.com Available at WallpaperSTORE* wallpaper.com…

New flame A Mayfair restaurant plays with fire to push the flavour boundaries This issue, we’re all fired up by the next generation of design wunderkinds. So it seems fitting that we toast their future success at hot new London restaurant Humo, headed up by chef Miller Prada. Taking its name from the Spanish word for smoke, Humo only uses fire to cook its dishes, using a wide variety of woods, including juniper, birch and apple, and an impressive range of methods. Prada says his current favourite dish is a prawn mazzancolle cooked with a flambadou. ‘We use Japanese beef fat that we let drip, on fire, over the prawn. Guests love the results. It just adds different layers of flavours that are very surprising.’ humolondon.com…

Despite its sleek, minimal exterior – the effect of which is wholly contemporary – heritage German luggage house Rimowa’s new ‘Distinct’ line actually represents a journey back to its roots as a saddlery shop and case manufacturer in Cologne at the turn of the 20th century. That’s because, instead of its now-signature ridged-aluminium casing, the ‘Distinct’ line is clad in leather, a material which Rimowa says has not been used by the brand in this way for more than 100 years. That said, the ‘Distinct’ line – which currently comprises a version of its ‘Cabin’ suitcase, available in either black or navy leather – nonetheless marks yet another technological leap forward for the brand, which prizes continuous innovation and an ongoing evolution of its signature pieces. As such, each ‘Distinct’…

01. Parti Studio For a studio that has been predominantly practising architecture for the past eight years, it is an exciting moment for Parti to start designing its own objects. ‘We have always been interested in work of a variety of scales,’ says Eleanor Hill, founding director of the London-based studio, which she created with Tom Leahy in 2015. Parti’s first foray into lighting, the ‘Puddle’ collection, was the result of a residency at experimental fabrication workshop Grymsdyke Farm in Buckinghamshire, where a series of creatives were invited to design site-inspired dining homewares for the exhibition ‘The Farm Shop’, held at Fels Gallery during London Design Festival. Parti chose to design lighting, influenced by that common muddy farmyard sight, the puddle. But unlike the murky rainwater found on the farm,…

Origin stories hold a lot of clues to a designer’s beliefs and consequent trajectory, and Ibiyane’s is no different. ‘We started in 2020, during lockdown,’ explains Tania Doumbe Fines, who co-founded the studio with Élodie Dérond. ‘I basically had a notebook with things I wanted to do in my life, a bucket list I guess. And with my background in interior design, I wanted to make a chair. So I started designing an African birthing chair, and from that a friend of ours invited us to make a seat for an exhibition. Élodie started helping me and we just love the process of working together and bringing our ideas from our minds into actual objects crafted with our hands.’ While others across the globe allowed the pandemic and its attendant…

A series of common connections led to the building of this house for a private client in the leafy, affluent Athens neighbourhood of Filothei. Set in a typical rectangular plot, this exercise in restraint and spatial mastery, by London- and LA-based architecture studio Kallos Turin, came about thanks to private collection curator and adviser Emily Tsingou, a common friend and collaborator of both the architect and the client, who has an extensive contemporary African and African American art collection. Then it turned out this wasn’t the only connection between them as it soon came to light that Kallos Turin co-founder Stephania Kallos’ grandfather had been in business with the client’s grandfather for about 40 years in South Africa. More connections were later discovered, and the project started to feel like…

Alaïa maison-alaia.com Anne Isabella anneisabella.com Aram aram.co.uk B&B Italia bebitalia.com Bottega Veneta bottegaveneta.com Burberry burberry.com Carl Hansen & Søn carlhansen.com Cassina cassina.com Celine by Hedi Slimane celine.com Chaumet chaumet.com Completedworks completedworks.com Dior dior.com Edra edra.com Ege Carpets egecarpets.com Falke falke.com Feben feben.co Ferragamo ferragamo.com Flexform flexform.com Fredrikson Stallard fredriksonstallard.com Fritz Hansen fritzhansen.com Ghidini 1961 ghidini1961.com Giorgetti giorgettimeda.com Givenchy givenchy.com Gucci gucci.com Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier jilsander.com Knoll knoll-int.com L’Objet l-objet.com Maison Margiela maisonmargiela.com Margaret Howell margarethowell.co.uk Marwood marwood.life Meryll Rogge meryllrogge.com Minotti minotti.com Miu Miu miumiu.com Molteni & C molteni.it Monument Store monumentstore.co.uk Nicklas Skovgaard nicklasskovgaard.com Paul Smith paulsmith.com Poliform poliform.com Poltrona Frau poltronafrau.com Pomellato pomellato.com Porada porada.it Prada prada.com Rev revofficial.com Riluc riluc.com Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello ysl.com Standing Ground standing-ground.com Stella McCartney stellamccartney.com Talia…