Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2023 i Wallpaper

One of our current favourite tipples to indulge in is the newly launched apéritif Pomello. Conceived by Malin Spano, a Swedish-born luxury hospitality consultant who divides her time between London and California, the drink marries the pomelo (a sweeter, mellower relative of the grapefruit, widely grown in California), and elderflower, a popular ingredient in cordials in Sweden. The result is a sweet pink-tinged apéritif tempered by an acid freshness and a bitter floral flavour. Serve it over ice with sparkling wine, a dash of soda or tonic and a wedge of grapefruit. Or follow our lead and shake it up with some gomme syrup, fresh lime juice, egg white and bitters to create a Pomello sour, which we’ve strained into an elegantly stemmed ‘Commodore’ glass designed by Viennese architect Oswald…

When she was growing up, Dutch designer Sabine Marcelis always wanted a lava lamp. ‘I was fascinated by its magical dance,’ she says. ‘I couldn’t understand how it worked, what was inside; it looked like an alien creature.’ So when she was invited by the lamp’s manufacturer Mathmos to interpret the iconic design on the occasion of its 60th anniversary, she didn’t hesitate. Despite being simple in its formula (a food-grade glass bottle is filled with wax and water in contrasting colours), the lamp’s mechanics have always been surrounded by a mysterious aura. ‘I wanted to enhance the idea of mystery by etching the bottle so the lava liquid becomes veiled behind a haze,’ says Marcelis. Her version of the lamp looks all-white when turned off (achieving the alien look…

The Great Pacific Garbage Patch, located between Hawaii and California, is the world’s largest accumulation of ocean plastic, and almost half of it is made up of ghost nets (lost or discarded fishing nets). German social enterprise Bracenet, which reuses the nets to create colourful bracelets, recently partnered with Swiss watch brand Oris in a rethink of their function. The Oris X Bracenet, a new edition of the brand’s Aquis Date diver’s model, features a hypnotising dial made from white, blue and green ghost net offcuts. These are first warmed so they melt together and, once cooled, the material is cut to size and sanded down, avoiding the need for glue or additives, and ensuring each watch is unique. The initiative is the latest in Oris’ Change for the Better…

When Frieze magazine held its first art fair back in 2003, it solidified what had been happening on London’s contemporary art scene for the last decade. The city was buzzing, attracting people from around the world, but until Frieze, there had been no single location to bring them all together. After the arrival of the YBAs in the late 1980s, galleries like White Cube, Sadie Coles HQ and Victoria Miro were on the ascendency, but a central meeting point was needed that could match the verve of what was happening in the galleries. ‘Right from the outset, it was about blurring boundaries and thinking about Frieze as not just a trade fair,’ says Frieze London’s director Eva Langret. ‘It’s also a commissioning outfit with the artists’ projects, it’s an educational…

Liminal House comes by its name honestly. Cascading over the sea wall between the city and the harbour, between dense metropolis and wilderness, land and sand, it occupies a spectacular threshold, and not just physically. The couple who live here were at a juncture in their working and family lives when they hired architects Lisa Bovell and Matt McLeod of Vancouver practice McLeod Bovell. ‘Their lives are like waves on the ebb – they are retreating professionally and personally at a moment when their children are turning into teens,’ says Bovell. ‘This house is a threshold moment for them as well.’ As a result, every element of their collaboration responds to that in-between state. To understand the pivoted arrangement of concrete volumes, and their relationship to the contrasting oak interior,…

In a bid to spotlight the rare gemstones that give high jewellery pieces their star appeal, the designer’s job can become something of an architectural pursuit. Whether a ring, bracelet or necklace, the intricate gold frameworks in which the weighty stones are set must be designed on varying levels to accommodate their volume, which gives this specialist field of jewellery design the baroque character that sets it far apart from everyday fine gold and silver pieces. This year, however, two jewellery houses played with symmetry and white space to achieve a less voluminous, more contemporary look. Patrice Leguéreau, director of Chanel’s Fine Jewellery Creation Studio, took inspiration from heritage fabric for the brand’s latest collection, Tweed de Chanel. ‘We wanted the jewellery to feel as if you are being draped…

A Wallpaper* subscription ensures: * Collectable, artist-designed covers * 12 issues a year for £100/$140/€157 * Delivery every month Our limited-edition covers, available only to subscribers, are created by a leading artist, designer or architect each month. Past contributors range from Jony Ive to Jenny Holzer, Yayoi Kusama to Tom Sachs, Isaac Julien to Karl Lagerfeld. See just a few of our favourites here, and subscribe for many more unique artworks to come. To subscribe, visit wallpaper.com/sub23 Offer closes 31 December 2023. For full terms and conditions, visit magazinesdirect.com/terms…

Hair: Maarit Niemela at Frank Agency using Charlotte Mensah Photography assistants: Federico Gioco, Emre Cakir Hair assistant: Gordon Chappels Retouching: MGS Post…

‘Compound’ vessel by Completedworks and Ekaterina Bazhenova-Yamasaki Although London-based brand Completedworks is better known for its statement jewellery collections, it is increasingly getting noticed for its unusual take on homeware, which ranges from pared-back vases with soft, almost draped forms to fun ‘Bumpity Bump Bump’ mugs adorned with what look like thumbprint indents. Among our favourites is this ceramic vessel, part of a series of textured designs with expressive silhouettes produced in collaboration with interdisciplinary artist Ekaterina Bazhenova-Yamasaki. The vessel’s flowing shape is meant to convey movement, referring both to the art of choreography and the idea of serendipity. ‘Compound’ vessel, £345, by Completedworks and Ekaterina Bazhenova-Yamasaki, from Mytheresa, mytheresa.com…

‘It was important to go back to the garments,’ says V&A fashion curator Oriole Cullen about the museum’s latest blockbuster fashion exhibition, ‘Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto’. ‘Coco Chanel’s personal life is something that people are very drawn to and interested in. But less is said about the clothes.’ It is not difficult to see the appeal of Chanel’s colourful life story. There was her poor upbringing in a French nunnery, a youth spent as a shop girl and café singer, and the opening of her first millinery shop on Paris’ Rue Cambon in 1910. Or her dalliances with high society, fated romances, summers on the French Riviera with Pablo Picasso and Jean Cocteau, and journeys to golden age Hollywood to costume its biggest stars. And though ‘Fashion Manifesto’ uses these…

Gregoris Pyrpylis fell in love with make-up the way most of us did – young and getting ready for a party. For him, that specific moment came in 2004 when, on a lark, he asked a friend if he could try applying her make-up. Even though the results were, in his words, ‘a bit mixed up,’ he has since found his footing, relocating to Paris from his native Greece to become Tom Pecheux’s assistant, before being named the Hermès Beauty’s creative director in 2022. A year on and Pyrpylis is about to launch Hermès Beauty’s latest collection, Le Regard. It is the fifth chapter in the brand’s beauty line, which began with Rouge Hermès lipsticks in 2020 and gradually expanded to include nail polishes, foundations and highlighters, blushes and, now,…

‘CUBICLE’ SEATING by Form Us With Love, for +Halle When Danish brand +Halle tasked a group of designers with investigating new ways for furniture to help induce productivity, its aim was to create pieces that would foster a sense of concentration and creativity while still allowing workers to remain connected to their environment. Mission accomplished for Stockholm studio Form Us With Love, whose ‘Cubicle’ seating takes inspiration from Gunnar Asplund’s fixed wooden benches, built in 1935 for the architect’s Woodland Chapel in Stockholm. The bent plywood design challenges people’s perception of concentration and the space that surrounds them; a familiar frame where you can be alone with your thoughts, yet still right there in the open-plan workspace. plushalle.com ‘BAY’ SYSTEM by Foster + Partners, for Poltrona Frau This flexible seating…

In 1997, Silvia Venturini Fendi introduced the Fendi ‘Baguette’ bag, named for the way it nestles under the arm, as one might carry the French loaf after a trip to the boulangerie. As part of her A/W23 menswear collection for the Italian house, this year Venturini Fendi playfully revisited the bag’s inspirations, with models carrying a gleefully surreal baguette, rendered in luxurious shearling. Poking from tote bags, grasped under the arm or slung across the back as a case for an umbrella, it epitomised the irreverent approach Venturini Fendi brings to her menswear collections. This season, she conjured up an after-dark mood, the collection’s languid silhouettes and swathes of shimmering embellishment recalling rollers discos and Studio 54, with the bread-shaped accessory providing an unexpected but satiating juxtaposition.…

It is said that when Object, a fur-covered teacup, saucer and spoon by Swiss surrealist artist Meret Oppenheim, was displayed at New York’s Museum of Modern Art in 1936, such were the visceral reactions that one woman dropped to the floor and fainted. This season’s faux fur- or shearling-covered footwear might not have prompted such reactions when they appeared on the catwalks earlier this year, but in their underlying strangeness and seductive subversiveness, they nonetheless recall the surrealist spirit of Oppenheim’s work. There are the sprouting soles of Gucci’s elegant horse-bit pumps – which give the effect of permanently walking on a soft-pile rug – or Daniel Lee’s shaggy shearling mules, part of his debut collection for British house Burberry, where he once again showed his prowess when it comes…

Giorgio Armani has long cultivated a passion for flowers. A new volume, bearing the same name, Armani Fiori, as his brand’s floral boutiques (which made their debut in Milan in 2000, with later outposts opening in Dubai, Kuwait City and Hong Kong), charts the history of his floral tastes through 200 photographs of minimalist yet ebullient compositions, often presented in connection to his fashion and design pieces to showcase the impact flowers have had on his work. ‘I love sharp lines,’ says Armani. ‘And I like geometry: both in the cuts of the leaves and in the vases, which always have regular shapes such as cubes and spheres, with asymmetries that make everything so elegant, vibrant and pure.’ The book takes viewers on a chromatic voyage through vivid greens, bright…

Now in its eighth edition, the Dior Lady Art project invites international artists to put their unique stamp on what is perhaps the fashion house’s most recognisable handbag, the ‘Lady Dior’. This latest iteration comes courtesy of British art’s foremost provocateurs, Gilbert & George, who chose to adorn one side of the bag’s printed and embossed calfskin exterior with their likenesses, criss-crossed and staring contemptuously outwards at the wearer. On the other side, ‘Love always and all ways’ is printed alongside the artists’ signatures. The launch of the handbag – which will also see editions by Mircea Cantor, Ha-Chong Hyun, Jeffrey Gibson, Mariko Mori and Mickalene Thomas, among others – coincides in part with the opening of the Gilbert & George Centre earlier this year. Located on Heneage Street, just…

For the better part of the last three decades, Takashi Murakami has dominated popular culture with his bounty of recognisable symbols. From his nowubiquitous Flowers to his equally endearing Mr DOB alter-ego, Murakami’s brightly coloured universe has expanded the reaches of art well beyond the canvas. Through his influence, Vans slip-on sneakers, Perrier bottles and T-shirts for Uniqlo, as well as music videos for Billie Eilish, cushions for the Museum of Modern Art and collectible timepieces (both IRL and NFT) for Hublot, have all become veritable platforms for art. And while he has made his work available to as many people as possible, Murakami still continues to retain his standing at the pinnacle of the art world. If it is possible to surpass this peak, Murakami is about to do…

The product of a harsh winter, intense August sunshine and 12 years in the cellar, Dom Pérignon Rosé embodies a dedication to creation and the radical exploration of new possibilities. When Vincent Chaperon was inducted as chef de cave (cellar master) at Dom Pérignon, he was offered some learned advice: ‘Push the limits of creation. Question everything. Embrace risk and the element of surprise. Experiment freely. Prepare for a job that will be as much a matter of art as of technique.’ This job was to form an intimate relationship with Dom Pérignon’s wines and vineyards, creating assemblages that honour the quality of the grape and the harmony of the wine. He set out to draw inspiration from the maison’s heritage and history but to also reinvent with new vintages.…

Jeremiah Brent was always the coolest dad at nursery drop-off. I have a vision of him, picking up his daughter Poppy while my son Ford looked on balefully. So well dressed, so collected, almost always in white or beige or black in fantastic drapey fabrics. He was ‘quiet luxury’ incarnated before that term became a pop culture phrase. It was this quality that made me instantly think of hiring him when it came to doing a new office compound for me and my 50-strong employees. Previously, I had done my office on the Fox Studio lot in a sort of Californian earthy aesthetic – all tobacco silk rugs, industrial tables and odd art mixed with vintage Nakashima lamps and artefacts. But this time around, I wanted something new and modern.…

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