Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2023 i Wallpaper

Everyday items take on a precious significance in the hands of jewellery designer Nadine Ghosn, who brings a cheekiness to eating and drinking accessories in her new collection, Youtensils. From spoons dipped in diamond-encrusted Nutella to straws and forks that wind their way around the wrist, the collection presents a playful take on the quotidian, in Ghosn’s signature tongue-in-cheek style. Although the pieces appear simple in execution, they belie a complexity in their need to imbue an offbeat sensibility with flawless functionality. ‘I’m attracted to the things we may not notice daily that help us to live a better life,’ says Ghosn. ‘The universality of the pieces intrigues me, as they transcend place, culture, language. My mission is to make the ordinary, extraordinary.’ nadineghosn.com…

On a ridge in the Wasatch Back region of the Rocky Mountains, just outside Park City, Utah – where architect Chris Price runs his practice, Klima Architecture – sits a house defined by a series of interlocking gabled masses. It is as informed by earthships as it is by formalism; as influenced by its mountainclimbing clients as it is by Price’s childhood in New Mexico; as sheltered from the elements as it is set squarely within nature. It offers, Price says, a place of solace and protection from which to respect and enjoy this wild landscape. It’s also a game changer for Price, marking an evolution of years of quiet, dedicated practice into a crystallised approach. ‘This is the first opportunity where all the stars aligned,’ he says. Designed for…

If New York is a metaphorical melting pot, then the Russian & Turkish Baths, a New York institution for 131 years, is where the term becomes literal. There, in the basement of an East Village landmark tenement, a cacophony of citizens gather together, strip naked and sweat. Amongst the steam, you can find a tattooed skater next to an elderly rabbi, a yoga instructor next to a clean-cut finance bro, all there for the same reason, ‘the schvitz’. The baths have even attracted a wide roster of celebrities over the years, from Patti Smith and Lou Reed to LL Cool J, Matthew McConaughey and Colin Farrell. It is a New York slice of a tradition that spans continents and centuries. From Moroccan hammams, Turkish baths and Korean mogyoktangs to Japanese…

Welcome to the August issue, Wallpaper’s guide to creative America. We shine a spotlight on a dazzling array of talent who are shaping the future of the creative industries, and compile the 300 names you need to know in our US Directory – from Pharrell Williams to Pamela Shamshiri, and from Nifemi Ogunro to André Balazs. These are the hottest names in the USA today, from born-and-bred locals to the global thinkers who have chosen to make it their home, from the trailblazers and the tastemakers to the rising stars of tomorrow. Highlights of the issue include our profile of Stephen Galloway, master choreographer and creative alchemist, who was captured in a series of intimate portraits by photographer and artist Paul Mpagi Sepuya. According to writer Mallery Roberts Morgan, Stephen…

Currently on view until 22 July at San Francisco’s Jessica Silverman Gallery, artist Jeffrey Gibson explores the medium of collage through the lens of his Cherokee and Choctaw heritage, using offcuts, paper scraps and found Native American objects. For this work, whose title Praying for Time is borrowed from a George Michael song, Gibson subverts the work of Elbridge Ayer Burbank, an American artist, born in 1858, who made portraits of Native peoples, often dressed in garments not of their own tribe or culture. Setting Burbank’s portraits against vibrant beadwork and patterning, Gibson critiques his depiction of Native Americans as a dying race at the time, in a powerful political statement against erasure. jessicasilvermangallery.com…

Jim McDowell, who calls himself ‘the Black Potter’, has spent much of his 35-year-long career making face jugs, a form introduced by enslaved people of African origin in the US in the 19th century. But it took him until almost two years ago, aged 76, to finally get a gas-and wood-fired kiln of his own, despite a lifetime of pursuing what seems not to have been just a passion for pottery, but a calling. Talking from his studio in Weaverville, North Carolina, McDowell says his family knew he was destined to work with clay from the time he was a toddler playing in a sandbox, and dates his awakening to attending a family funeral at the age of 13. ‘My grandfather told us that we had an ancestor named Evangeline…

When LA’s Academy Museum of Motion Pictures opened in 2021, its most popular exhibit spotlighted the ruby slippers from The Wizard of Oz. It’s a shame they’re no longer on view because, in September, John Waters will follow an alternative yellow brick road to his own Emerald City – Hollywood – when the museum honours him with the first comprehensive exhibition of his artefacts, photographs, scrapbooks and movies. Waters quips, ‘The Wizard of Oz is still my favourite movie, but I never understood why Dorothy wanted to go back home to that dreary farm when she had gay lions, winged monkeys and magic shoes.’ Since the 1960s, the Baltimore-born filmmaker has borrowed from the trashiest of B-movies, gore and sex laden offerings by the likes of Herschell Gordon Lewis and…

Despite not having any formal design training, Peter B Staples is an industry veteran, having previously worked for the likes of design gallery The Future Perfect and design studio Apparatus. His intuitive understanding of how design and lighting functions in the real world is what led him to set up Blue Green Works in 2020 with business partner James McAvey. The Manhattan-based studio has been steadily championing a new aesthetic in American design, becoming known for its sensual yet masculine approach to form – a signature it established with the debut of its ‘Palm’ and ‘Fiber’ lighting fixtures in 2021, inspired by Horace Gifford’s modernist Fire Island homes and completely designed and engineered during lockdown. ‘I’ve always been interested in design. I grew up in a Gustav Stickley house in…

I‘dropped out’ in 2014. Traded in home in LA for a life in the woods. I bought a commune founded by idealistic hippies in 1971 on California’s Mendocino coast. Eleven handcrafted cabins clinging to logging roads carved into a south-facing slope of second-and third-growth redwoods. I wrote a letter to the 13 remaining shareholders and expressed interest in continuing the legacy and spirit of the place. I offered to preserve their archive, which included correspondence, weekly meeting minutes, documents, maps, plans, press clippings and photographs. It offered a fascinating window into the social structures and stories behind the buildings that remain. I gave up my previous life as a nomadic artist to be rooted in one place. An extended community of friends, friends of friends, and whoever showed up, pitched…

To subscribe, visit wallpaper.com/sub23 A Wallpaper* subscription ensures: * Collectable, artist-designed covers * 12 issues a year for £100/$140/€157 * Delivery every month Our limited-edition covers, available only to subscribers, are created by a leading artist, designer or architect each month. Past contributors range from Jony Ive to Jenny Holzer, Yayoi Kusama to Tom Sachs, Isaac Julien to Karl Lagerfeld. See just a few of our favourites here, and subscribe for many more unique artworks to come. Zaha Hadid W*88 Alan Fletcher W*94 Raf Simons W*126 Karl Lagerfeld W*127 Barbara Kruger W*141 David Hockney W*154 Yayoi Kusama W*159 Linder & Paolo Roversi W*174 Julio Le Parc W*195 Wolfgang Tillmans W*208 Do Ho Suh W*216 Lorna Simpson W*228 Isaac Julien W*243 Virgil Abloh W*257 Mark Bradford W*267 Daniel Arsham W*270 Apple…

If you think a soda float is a relic of retro diners and drive-ins, then think again. This summer we’re championing its revival as the perfect seasonal drink, with our own mixture of cherry soda and vanilla ice cream, topped with some fun accoutrements for good measure. Together, these two cure-alls for summer-induced fatigue create a decadent flavour and texture sensation that is a little bit malty, a little bit sweet, a little creamy, a little bit fizzy, and all delicious.…

For inspiration for his pre-fall 2023 collection, Thom Browne turned to Herman Melville’s seminal novel Moby-Dick, building on his reputation as one of fashion’s most voracious storytellers (the season prior, he staged a Cinderella-inspired extravaganza starring Gwendoline Christie). Scenes from the novel – which charts Captain Ahab’s obsessive pursuit of a great white whale – featured as motifs across the collection, while Browne’s signature shrunken tailoring took on a nautical bent, decorated with miniature sailing boats or matched with off-kilter berets. Completing the look was a version of Browne’s dog-shaped ‘Hector’ bag – named after the designer’s dachshund – here playfully transformed into the shape of a whale. The Pennsylvania-born designer has continually riffed on such American archetypes, most notably, an ever-evolving play on preppy Ivy League dress codes that…

The Golden State has inspired infinite songs, films and paintings, and, now it seems, perfume. Louis Vuitton’s new ‘Pacific Chill’ fragrance takes its inspiration from California’s most ubiquitous drink, green juice. With its blue ombré bottle and refreshing notes of blackcurrant, lemon and basil, it’s practically a detox in a bottle. Celine’s ‘Eau de Californie’, on the other hand, is a more personal ode to the state. A palo santo scent tinged with orris and tree moss, it was designed by creative director Hedi Slimane as a tribute to the place he called home for ten years. Meanwhile, the debut collection of new brand Perfumehead features seven fragrances dedicated to LA, each conjuring up moments that capture the city, from the Chateau Marmontinspired ‘Room No.’ to ‘Cosmic Cowboy’, an ode…

Tom Ford revolutionised fashion with his glamorously sexy A/W96 collection for Gucci. Ten years later, he did the same for beauty, launching his eponymous brand one year after leaving the Italian fashion house. Now, Ford is stepping down from the brand, with his longtime colleague Peter Hawkings announced as its new creative director. Ford aimed high from the get-go and, by 2014, he had built his beauty brand (not including his label’s fashion divisions) into a multi-million pound behemoth. And while his assertion then that he wanted to build it into a $3bn business might have seemed a reach too high, it turns out he was right on the money: last year, Estée Lauder made one of the biggest acquisitions in industry history by purchasing Tom Ford for $2.8bn. As…

A few times a year, we’ll find ourselves in Cape Cod or New Jersey or Maryland in a holiday home of whomever’s parents made the best life choices. In these coastal rooms, the same scenes play out. Molly enters the house and sets up various candles and cheeses by a window. Dave shuffles people together, saying, ‘We gotta get a pic of these two!’ Bobby puts an apple on someone’s head and a softbox as close to their face as possible. Tim finds an exploded car to photograph at dusk. Chris already took pictures of a gas station on the way up. No one really knows what Corey is up to, but he’s getting very close to something on the ground. I’m waiting for the sun to set when everything…

In any creative process, there’s a search for that magical moment when you hit the mark. And in any creative process, the stage can be perfectly set – so to speak – yet that special moment never comes. Which is why today’s most sought-after creatives – whether working on a photo shoot, music video, TV commercial or the catwalk of a fashion show – rely on Stephen Galloway as a guarantee to bring the magic. Using the roll of a shoulder, the twist of a head, the exact placement of an arch of a foot, Galloway has pioneered a singularly unique profession as a creative movement director. ‘I try to capture magic, you know, that’s all I try to do,’ says Galloway of his work rooted in two decades of…

American cuisine might be first associated with the indulgent heartiness of, let’s say, a juicy burger slathered in cheese, and then next perhaps with the newfangled inventiveness that comes with that burger’s plant-based, lab-developed sibling. But if we were to delve back into the true origins of American food, the menu at The Commerce Inn, an early American tavern located in New York City’s West Village, is more likely to be a closer match. Opened at the end of 2021 by chefs Rita Sodi and Jody Williams, the well-loved couple behind Manhattan stalwarts Via Carota and Bar Pisellino, all located in arm’s reach of one another, The Commerce Inn is a moody, wood-panelled restaurant inspired by the heirloom recipes, craftsmanship and design heritage of the Shakers, a Protestant sect that…

COMMISSION Formed in 2018 by Dylan Cao, Jin Kay and Huy Luong, Commission has built a cult following for its gently subversive collections that riff on corporate attire, 1990s sportswear and vintage Americana. Luong has now left to pursue a career in photography, but the label presented its tenth collection this year, a play on the New York archetypes spotted around its Times Square studio. ‘American fashion is an ever-changing concept as it’s been historically shaped by the many cultures and subcultures arriving from elsewhere’ AREA Founded by Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg in 2014, New York label Area is known for its poppy 1980s-tinged motifs. The duo’s designs have become a popular choice for celebrities seeking outré attire – from Michelle Obama to Beyoncé – with their most recent…

Area area.nyc Bode bode.com Celine celine.com Chen Chen and Kai Williams cckw.us Christofle christofle.com Christopher John Rogers christopherjohnrogers.com Commission commission.nyc Design Within Reach dwr.com Egg Collective eggcollective.com Ferm Living fermliving.com Jialun Xiong jialunxiong.com Linn linn.co.uk L’Objet l-objet.com Louis Vuitton louisvuitton.com Nadine Ghosn nadineghosn.com Perfumehead perfumehead.com Soft-Geometry soft-geometry.com Sophie Lou Jacobsen sophieloujacobsen.com Telo telotrucks.com The Future Perfect thefutureperfect.com Thom Browne thombrowne.com Tiffany & Co tiffany.com Tom Ford tomford.com Willy Chavarria willychavarria.com…

‘Neutra Modern House Numbers’ by Richard Neutra, for House Industries First impressions count and a striking door number makes a promising start, so for ours, we looked to modernist American icon Richard Neutra, who emigrated from Austria to the US in the early 1920s, and became the country’s master at indoor-outdoor architecture. His unique approach saw him seamlessly merge the natural with the man-made, evident in some of his designs, such as the Lovell House (1929) in LA and Kaufmann House (1946) in Palm Springs. In 2001, design studio House Industries partnered with the late architect’s estate to create a typographic font referencing the same letters and numbers that Neutra specified across his buildings, and the resulting Neutraface became the official typeface of modernism. Made of anodised or brass-plated aluminium,…