Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2023 i Wallpaper

VITELLI A genderless knitwear label known for innovation and artistry, Vitelli has pushed the benchmark of sustainable manufacturing since it first launched in 2017, using textiles created from discarded yarns and selvedge, handpicked from deadstock fabrics. Says founder Mauro Simionato, ‘For us, the sourcing always starts from the threads. Finding fabrics from knitting labs, yarn spinners and deadstock resellers is like a seasonal harvest. Since we create from what we source, the available leftovers dictate the design of our collections.’ Take, for example, Vitelli’s ‘Doomboh’ textile, a needle-punched, felted knitted fabric that exudes a marbled, multi-dimensional effect, or its fine-gauge deadstock linen, which is treated with leftover cork powder to create a sort of knit-corduroy that is all natural, sustainable and water-resistant. These fabrics work well with Vitelli’s embrace of…

Though Lindberg was founded only 37 years ago, the Aarhus-based eyewear powerhouse has an aura more in common with the generations-old furniture labels that are so integral to our understanding of Danishness. Like many of their timeless designs, the original Lindberg frames were born out of necessity. In the mid-1980s, frustrated by traditional eyewear, involving screws that had to be tightened sooner or later, optician Poul-Jørn Lindberg worked with Copenhagen-based architects Dissing + Weitling to come up with a new design that would require no such maintenance. The solution came in the form of a screwless spiral hinge, which remains a cornerstone of Lindberg today. ‘Screwless eyewear is durable while providing flexibility. It’s truly unique, and the reason for Lindberg’s existence’, says Roberto Vedovotto, president and CEO of Kering Eyewear,…

Having spent three seasons reinvigorating the fashion-focused womenswear line at Jacob Cohën – the Italian luxury denim label founded in 1985 – artistic director and president Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle was insistent on the need for ‘freshness’. ‘Jacob Cohën is a very elegant brand, but it required that kick to move into the fashion world,’ she says. ‘And in order to do this, I needed someone younger than me.’ So Tommasi Bardelle – who began her role after the death of her husband Nicola Bardelle, the son of Jacob Cohën founder Tato Bardelle, in 2012 – asked her team to find ten emerging designers for a then-undefined project. Location or credentials were unimportant; Tommasi Bardelle simply desired a fresh voice that chimed with her own vision for the label. Only one…

Yasmina Dexter is Shazam’s worst nightmare. Also known as Pandora’s Jukebox, Dexter layers up multi-textured soundscapes and mixes for fashion industry heavyweights that are impossible to decode. She assembles diverse genres, samples and original compositions with an artistry that pushes DJing into the realms of sound design. From Ferragamo catwalk shows and Rick Owens after-parties to sets at Paris club Cicciolina, her work is varied and shifting, but the constant is that extra emotional dimension you only get from music. ‘Well, I am called Pandora’s Jukebox for a reason,’ she says over her first coffee of the day at home in Hackney. ‘If you have to define what I do or put me in a box, it’s going to be a box filled with unexpected things.’ Leaving her native Slovenia…

Wallpaper* subscribers enjoy exclusive, limited-edition, artist-designed covers To subscribe, visit wallpaper.com/sub23 A Wallpaper* subscription ensures: * Collectable, artist-designed covers * 12 issues a year for £100/$140/€157 * Delivery every month Our limited-edition covers, available only to subscribers, are created by a leading artist, designer or architect each month. Past contributors range from Jony Ive to Jenny Holzer, Yayoi Kusama to Tom Sachs, Isaac Julien to Karl Lagerfeld. See just a few of our favourites here, and subscribe for many more unique artworks to come. Zaha Hadid W*88 Alan Fletcher W*94 Raf Simons W*126 Karl Lagerfeld W*127 Barbara Kruger W*141 David Hockney W*154 Yayoi Kusama W*159 Linder & Paolo Roversi W*174 Julio Le Parc W*195 Wolfgang Tillmans W*208 Do Ho Suh W*216 Lorna Simpson W*228 Isaac Julien W*243 Virgil Abloh W*257…

Can you tell us a little about your home? I live in south-east London, but my neighbourhood is very leafy and green. There are ponds, Georgian terraces, graceful church spires, and a few hints of modernist architecture. I also really appreciate the independent butchers, fishmongers and bakeries that are all within walking distance. Where and when do you find that you are most productive? It can be anytime, anywhere. I get a lot of my written work done on my train journeys between Suffolk and London. Where is your favourite place at home? Relaxing in my little bathtub with a view of the setting sun on a summer’s evening, listening to In Tune Mixtape on BBC Radio 3. What do you collect? I’m not the kind of collector who goes…

01. CASA PANI Founded by architect Miggi Hood, mezcal brand owner Yola Jimenez and entrepreneur Marie Cazalaa, this intimate six-suite hotel is located in a revamped modernist building by Mario Pani. ‘It is close to everything, but not slap bang in the cacophony and chaos of Roma and Condesa, nor the shopping district of Polanco,’ Hood says of the location. Communal spaces include living and dining areas, a kitchen, and a dipping pool inspired by sculptor Valentine Schlegel. A complimentary Oaxacan-style breakfast, as well as in-room massages and an art concierge programme, elevate the experience. casapani.com 02. MERCADO JAMAICA This covered market is a dinner party planner’s dream: in addition to stalls that sell produce, meat, medicinal herbs, candles and piñatas, Mercado Jamaica is home to more than 1,000 vendors…

Model: Karim Turk at IMG Models Casting: Svea Casting Grooming: Michelle Harvey at Opus Beauty using Phyto and Skinceuticals Fashion assistant: Kit Swann Thanks to Downtown LA Proper Hotel Shot on location at Clear Oak, Encino, by Woods + Dangaran (see page 160)…

STATIC VISION New Missoni creative director Filippo Grazioli’s debut womenswear collection sees the designer riff on the house’s signature stripes and zigzags. Vivid colour predominates, interspersed with black-and-white pieces, their distorted prints evocative of TV static. IN THE CLEAR ‘A celebration of the beauty and complexity of the human body,’ says Christopher Kane of his latest collection. A stream of pieces in clear PVC – some decorated with anatomical drawings – continue Kane’s penchant for sensually-charged subversion. OUTDOOR PURSUITS Kim Jones looked to nature for inspiration for Dior menswear. Accessories are primed for outdoor pursuits, whether colourful trekking boots, latticed gardening hats or sleek wraparound sunglasses, rendered in Jones’ typically futuristic style. SIZED UP Nicolas Ghesquière has taken Louis Vuitton’s most recognised elements, such as the monogram and luggage tag,…

Italian flair meets horological acumen in Gucci’s newest additions to the 25H watch collection. Originally launched in 2021, the 25H family – named for former creative director Alessandro Michele’s favourite number – marked both Gucci’s centenary and the fashion brand’s entrance into the world of high watchmaking. Cutting strong architectural silhouettes, the watches take their cue from luxury sports watch traditions, marrying classic principles, such as an integrated five-link stainless steel bracelet and slender profile, with a juxtaposition of textures. Here, the horizontal lines and distinctive interlocking G motif on the dial are rethought, imbuing the sporty design with colour, including, this season, sorbet shades from minty blue to candyfloss pink.…

Geometry and symmetry pervade Loro Piana Interiors’ latest collection, unveiled at Paris Déco Off in January 2023. It is a gathering of refined materials including velvet upholstery, silk wallcoverings and Japanese igusa (the rush traditionally used to make tatamis), with each of its elements inspired by nature, its textures, colours and warmth. Francesco Pergamo, director of Loro Piana Interiors, says the brand ‘has always stood out for its expertise with natural fibres, which enable us to turn extraordinary raw materials into even more exceptional fabrics and accessories. In this case, we wanted to develop an especially original interpretation of the chosen fibres, and the result is a very polished collection with a modern, urban spirit.’ Among the new launches is the ‘Gleaming Velvet’ family of upholstery fabrics, which includes ‘Ballroom’,…

There is a sublime, otherworldly quality to Liam Lee’s organic works. The Brooklyn-based artist has shot to fame with the biophilic yet functional forms that he sculpts out of colour-saturated felt. Only five years into his practice, and at just 29 years old, the former set design assistant demonstrates a clarity and individuality well beyond his years. Working with fibres fabricated by a small wool mill in Ireland, Lee uses an intensive needle-felting process to create a variety of textile-based works. Initially producing large-format fabric panels featuring abstractions of microscopic and topographic forms, Lee soon moved into designing furniture pieces with dramatic surfaces that nod to familiar, biological forms. ‘Although I really enjoyed working in set design, I didn’t have my own creative outlet, so I started making textile pieces,’…

Designer James Shaw had been looking for a spot to build a house in London for a while when, in 2017, he came across an overgrown plot near his flat in east London. Fast forward five years and the 60 sq m parcel has become home to him and his partner. Designed in collaboration with architect friend Nicholas Ashby, the house develops over two floors (with the living area taking over the basement, and a bedroom on the ground floor) accessed from a courtyard facing a quiet street. ‘The house design was a reaction to the irregular plot,’ Shaw explains. Despite being largely underground, the house is designed with light in mind. ‘When I moved in, there was no staircase, no floor. It was basically a concrete shell,’ recalls Shaw.…

During her 35 years as artistic director of Hermès’ men’s universe – the longest tenure of any current creative director in Paris – Véronique Nichanian has entered the house’s historic archive only twice. She is steadfast that her vision is one of forward movement – each collection, she insists, is about looking ahead, never back. ‘We don’t have the same materials, we don’t have the same life,’ she says. ‘So we are always thinking: what is the classic of tomorrow?’ It has made Nichanian an undeniable force with an innate understanding of Hermès and a fastidious approach to creating a garment, which can hinge on centimetres of cloth (‘a centimetre can change the entire cut of a pair of trousers’). At the centre of her approach is the assertion that…

The key to a successful cacio e pepe, says New York-based artist Landon Metz, ‘is for each ingredient to be of the highest quality: punchy peppercorns, unsalted butter, a sharp pecorino Romano.’ Like Metz’s paredback paintings, which involve the application of thin washes of acrylic dye onto raw canvas, his favourite dish is proof that the precise execution of a simple formula can yield remarkable results. It’s about ‘stripping back the noise to have a raw experience with life. I’m interested in experiences that manage to transcend the sum of their parts,’ he says. ‘Sometimes the simplest things can be magic.’ landonmetz.com, waddingtoncustot.com. For Metz’s recipe, see Wallpaper.com…