Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2022 i Wallpaper

When Patricia Urquiola – the Spanish multi-hyphenate whose eponymous Milan-based studio spans product, industrial and furniture design, as well as architecture and art direction – got to the point of showing her capsule clothing collection for Weekend Max Mara last February, she decided to break with tradition. Until then, the Italian fashion label had always presented its collections in its own Milanese showroom; instead, Urquiola chose the headquarters of rug manufacturer CC-Tapis, a label with which she has long collaborated. ‘Sometimes you just have to change the rules,’ she says. The collaboration itself marked a first for Urquiola. Despite having forged strong connections with the fashion industry throughout her career (she has worked on projects for Missoni, Salvatore Ferragamo and Louis Vuitton, and had a close working relationship with the…

Nick Cave describes himself as an ‘artist, educator and messenger’. For more than 20 years, he has used sculpture, installation, performance, video and sound to create spaces of memorial, from collecting found objects to express the impact of gun violence in the United States, to fashioning fantastical Soundsuits, first made in response to the 1991 police beating of Rodney King, which conceal the wearer’s shape and identity as a comment on notions of race, gender and class. It has been a busy year for Cave, even by his prolific standards. In May, the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago unveiled his first career-spanning survey. The exhibition, which travels to the Guggenheim in New York in November, not only features unseen additions to the Soundsuits series, but also rarely seen early works.…

I’m not very idle,’ says Sterling Ruby as he walks through a studio that takes up much of a city block in Vernon, an industrial zone south of LA’s Arts District. Wearing a Kelly green bandana and bespoke rubber work boots of his own design, Ruby conducts a tour led by his miniature Bernedoodle, Ruth, named in honour of the late US Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg. A modest viewing room serves as an antechamber to a studio the size of a hangar, loosely divided into zones for each aspect of his unusually diverse art. Examples of his paintings, soft sculptures and other works are leaning against walls, lying on the floor or displayed on shelves. In a barrel-vaulted room, where light pours through skylights in the 39ft-high ceiling,…

For stockists, see page 177 Model: Daniela Kocianova at The Squad Management Casting: Svea Casting Hair: Maarit Niemela at Bryant Artists using Olaplex Make-up: Sunao Takahashi at Saint Luke using Chanel Demander La Lune and Chanel Le Lift Pro Manicurist: Sasha Goddard at Saint Luke using Dior Manicure Collection and Miss Dior Hand Cream Set design: Maya Angeli Set assistant: Lily Purbrick Photography assistant: Kurt Fairbairn Fashion assistant: Kris Bergfeldt…

Imperial College London’s Structures Laboratory, or ‘the concrete lab’, is a slightly daunting place where large machines clang and chunks of grey matter set in moulds. However, everyone here is very convivial and jolly greetings abound. In the midst of this orderly yet experimental zone, a banterous pair of young British scientists, Sam Draper and Barnaby Shanks, head towards a small back room where they are scaling up carbon neutral concrete from tiny cubes to bricks. Wait, carbon-neutral concrete? Concrete has been a strong, convenient and attractive (to many architecture lovers at least) material used for buildings, cities and infrastructure for centuries – yet now, as the second most consumed material after water, it is responsible for around eight per cent of the world’s man-made carbon emissions. Does what’s happening…

As Paris prepares for the 2024 Olympic Games by repainting the Eiffel Tower and ‘re-enchanting’ the Champs-Elysées, so French artist Cyprien Gaillard has also been busy thinking about our perpetual battle for preservation, and how this transitional moment is fertile ground for unpredictability, chaos and disorder. Paris’ neo-Renaissance is at the heart of Gaillard’s major two-part show ‘Humpty \ Dumpty’, simultaneously exhibited at the Palais de Tokyo (‘Humpty’) and Lafayette Anticipations (‘Dumpty’). ‘But this Renaissance is not all-encompassing. Not everyone makes the cut,’ Gaillard explains via Zoom from his Berlin studio. By everyone, Gaillard is referring to buildings and monuments overlooked during Paris’ facelift. ‘The politics of renovation in Paris have their limits and obstacles,’ he says. Born in Paris in 1980, Gaillard has lived and worked in Berlin, on…

Wolfgang Tillmans has shaped the world of photography as we know it. Over a prolific 35-year career, the German artist has infused an unvarnished intimacy and a playful sense of observation into his images. The full extent of his wide-reaching influence is palpable when walking through his first major survey in New York, now taking over the sixth floor of the Museum of Modern Art. Titled ‘To Look Without Fear’, the retrospective brings together approximately 350 photography, video and multimedia works, displayed in a loose chronology for the first time. Curated by Roxana Marcoci, MoMA’s senior curator of photography, the exhibition is a profound and emotional look back on Tillmans’ career. Spread over 11 galleries, it charts the artist’s depictions of identity, sexuality and gender, his social engagement, his fascination…

Machines are a recurring subject in the work of UK-based, Argentinian artist Pablo Bronstein: their history, grandeur and ever-shifting role in society. His masterfully-rendered illustrations are rooted in 18th-century aesthetics, yet simultaneously imbued with futurist fantasies, juxtaposing the aspirations, utopias and dystopias of architecture, modernism and the industrial world. It seems natural then that Bronstein would join forces with Swiss watchmaker Breguet to create artworks that celebrate the elegance of machines. ‘A lot of Breguet’s focus is on the moving parts and machinery,’ says Bronstein. ‘I find the exposure of the workings interesting because it’s essentially fetishising the stuff that is normally hidden, the machine as something beautiful.’ As part of a new partnership between Frieze and Breguet, Bronstein was invited to create a series of installations for Breguet lounges…

Widely regarded as the greatest watch designer of all time, Gérald Genta manifested the creative instincts of an artist and the meticulous eye of a trained jeweller (he was both). And nowhere is this more apparent than in the watches he produced for his final venture, Gérald Charles, which achieved a harmonious alliance of multiple disciplines while reflecting his own personal credo – ‘artistic creativity and technical mastery’. It’s fitting, then, that with the relaunch of the dial name in 2019, general manager Federico Ziviani chose to reanimate one of Genta’s signature styles with renowned watch designer Octavio Garcia. The Maestro 2.0 features a custom-finished Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier movement in an ultra-thin 40mm case, handsomely reflecting Genta’s fascination with the ‘sacred geometry’ of Renaissance Italian architecture. Now, the Maestro’s distinctive…

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#137 The recipient of the Hepworth Prize for Sculpture in 2018, Cerith Wyn Evans is best known for searing neon works that dance in space and leave traces on the mind and retina. Infused with poetry and philosophy, his art subverts existing systems of communication to invent an entirely new vocabulary. Contrary to its name, laverbread is not bread but a dish made from seaweed harvested off the Welsh coast, particularly in the south where Evans grew up. ‘I’m made of this. I ate it every single day for breakfast throughout my childhood,’ he says. For him, its beauty lies in its consistency: a rich, globular, gleaming ‘black gold’ that is ‘burgeoning with antioxidants’. For Evans’ recipe, see Wallpaper.com Evans suggests serving the laverbread mixed with organic pinhead oatmeal, accompanied…

Jonathan Anderson’s A/W22 menswear show for Loewe inhabited a surreal realm: a vest illuminated with glowing LED lights, rubber boots in bulbous proportions, jackets and bags covered with plugs as if transplanted from a kitchen sink. It is a reflection of a conceptual mood that permeates the menswear collections this season, where everyday garments have been reimagined with unexpected results. A Church’s loafer is sliced with holes, recalling those in found Swiss cheese and offering a playful glimpse of sock–or foot – beneath. Part of a collaboration between the shoemaker and Off-White, it marks one of Virgil Abloh’s last fashion collaborations. At Raf Simons, a cap is melded with a cape, inspired by a figure in a 16th-century painting by Flemish artist Pieter Bruegel the Elder, refracted through the Belgium…

A bodiless voice with a singsong Swiss lilt rings forth. After a few seconds of staring into the Zoom void, a wonderful burst of colour explodes onto the screen as Pipilotti Rist materialises in virtual form from her studio in Zurich. Much like her immersive video installations, the Swiss artist seems incapable of being confined to pixels: her ebullient character is magnified by the polka dot apron she is wearing. A colourful crochet blanket draped over the orange chair next to her completes the richly polychromatic picture. When we speak in late August, Rist has just returned from a six-week sojourn in Hong Kong installing her major solo show, ‘Behind Your Eyelid’, at Tai Kwun, a former police station-turned-cultural destination in the city’s Central district. Her heady installations sprawl beyond…