Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2022 i Wallpaper

01. PIRAEUS ART DISTRICT The port of Piraeus has proven to be the capital’s newest art hub, with a trio of international galleries (The Intermission, Rodeo and Carwan) flocking to the industrial Agios Dionysios neighbourhood to launch an outpost. The landscape here is ever changing as modern workspaces and residential projects are on the cards courtesy of local design-led developer Dimand, which is also reimagining the iconic 20th-century Piraeus Tower. 02. M18 Owned by Oliaros, the real estate powerhouse behind a string of design-led homes on the Aegean island of Antiparos, this rental property, originally built in 1923, is right next to the Acropolis Museum and consists of three units of different sizes. Interiors, sensitively refreshed by architect Argyro Pouliovali of ARP, feature a Gio Ponti dining table, Álvaro Siza…

The ‘Mossi’ vase, which has six rings of clear cabochons studded on its satin-polished surface, is a hallmark of French glassmaker Lalique. Founder René Lalique created the original glass vase in 1933, drawing inspiration from the Mossi people of West Africa, and anticipating a surge of popular interest in modernist design. It has since been produced in crystal, in a choice of four colourways: clear, amber, gold lustre and black. This year, to mark the 100th anniversary of Lalique’s glassworks in Wingen-sur-Moder, northeastern France, a celebratory edition has been launched in cerulean blue: the striking colour is achieved by a precise mix of copper oxide and manganese softened by phosphate, and a highly-controlled cooling down process, reflecting Lalique’s veneration of craft and pursuit of technical mastery. ‘Mossi’ vase in cerulean…

Kwangho Lee became a furniture designer by chance. Originally trained in metal art and design at Seoul’s Hongik University, he created a few furniture pieces for his 2007 graduation show, which caught the attention of a number of design galleries, including Montreal’s Commissaires and New York’s Johnson Trading Gallery. Over the past 15 years, the Korean designer’s body of work has expanded to include furniture, installations and interiors, and he is now launching his first collection outside the collectible design circuit, in collaboration with Swedish furniture brand Hem. The result of fabrication experiments with wood, stone, straw, sculpted styrofoam, knotted nylon cord and enamelled copper, Lee’s heavily process-based work conveys an excitement for materials and craft that has deep roots in his childhood. ‘My grandparents have been a great influence.…

SARAH MOON ‘The years of my professional beginnings – the 1970s – are a time I remember not with nostalgia but with energy: the change was overwhelming and evident, and it ran through all segments of society. I myself was swept up in it, using my work to contribute to what was changing in the female world. Among the most interesting magazines of the time I remember Nova, which had a heavy focus on emancipation. I was particularly struck by the work of a young photographer who would later become my friend and whose work I would showcase at Silos: Sarah Moon. In her early shots, the mixture of romantic yearning and strength is striking. Sarah imagined a new woman, free of any preconceptions and belief systems, but who still…

The summer of 2022, for Margot and Fergus Henderson, has been punctuated by art and travel. When we meet in early July, they are just back from Oslo, where they took in the new Munch Museum and Fergus hadn’t much liked the paintings. In a couple of weeks, they are off to the opening of an exhibition of new work by their friend Peter Doig in the unlikely location of Filicudi, an island 56km off the coast of Sicily. In between, they are sneaking in their regular two-week holiday on another island, this time the Scottish Tiree, a chilly but beautiful place where Fergus had taken Margot soon after they met. ‘Not liking it was not a deal breaker,’ she says. ‘But it helped that I did.’ Now she goes…

The sweeping architectural lines and curvilinear façade of the Harbin Opera House, in the north-eastern Chinese city, provide the starting point for the latest collection from AlphaTauri, a fashion offshoot of Austrian beverage behemoth Red Bull (AlphaTauri is also the name of one of the brand’s two Formula One teams under the Red Bull umbrella). ‘An impressive contemporary architectural masterpiece,’ says the brand of the building’s design by the Beijing-based studio MAD Architects. The Salzburg-based AlphaTauri was founded in 2016, defined by feats of technical accomplishment and construction, and a fastidious approach to design. Much of this comes down to the fabrics used in its collections: cutting-edge, developed by AlphaTauri in-house, and made to protect the wearer from the elements (such tough fabrications include AlphaTauri’s signature Taurobran, a three-layer breathable…

The mirrors in Serge Lutens’ home-turned-foundation in Marrakech are sliver-thin, so you can only see fractions of yourself inside them. They are an apt reflection of Lutens, who likes to speak about the multifarious nature of human beings. ‘We have multiple people inside us,’ he says. ‘That’s what makes us so rich, and what’s surprising about meeting people; to identify these different facets, what their character is built on, how it is shaped.’ To meet Lutens is to discover a man with many, often conflicting, facets. A man who, since 1974, has been building a home to rival any palace in its opulence and beauty, yet which remains largely empty and rarely accepts visitors. A figure routinely lauded as one of the most influential figures in the beauty industry –…

Years ago, the architect and designer Tobia Scarpa was asked what he dreams about. He replied, ‘One of my dreams would be to have my own little boat next to my house, or a boat big enough to hold me for a lifetime and drift away.’ Now 87, Scarpa’s boat-owning days are over, though his passion for boatbuilding remains undimmed. The image of water, as well as the sense of sunlit solitude that one associates with sailing, continues to be present in his work. The son of leading modernist architect Carlo Scarpa (1906-1978), Tobia Scarpa was born in Venice in 1935, and has always had a privileged relationship with water. Fittingly, his current studio in Treviso is located near the Sile river, which was once used to transport goods to…

Alan Fletcher W*94 Yayoi Kusama W*159 Tom Sachs W*215 Dieter Rams W*95 Richard Rogers W*172 Jenny Holzer W*220 Noé Sendas W*192 Linder & Paolo Roversi W*174 Jony Ive W*225 Karl Lagerfeld W*127 Rick Owens W*186 Lorna Simpson W*228 Barbara Kruger W*141 Jeremy Deller W*189 Isaac Julien W*243 David Hockney W*154 Conrad Shawcross W*205 Doug Aitken W*248 Offer closes 31 December 2022. For full terms and conditions, visit magazinesdirect.com/terms A Wallpaper* subscription ensures: Collectableartist-designed covers 12issuesa year for £100/$140/€157 Deliveryeverymonth Our limited-edition covers, available only to subscribers, are created by a leading artist, designer or architect each month. Past contributors range from Jony Ive to Jenny Holzer, Yayoi Kusama to Tom Sachs, Isaac Julien to Karl Lagerfeld. See just a few of our favourites here, and subscribe for many more unique…

By the early 1990s, Margot was living in London, working her way round its most fashionable restaurants, including The Eagle, London’s first gastropub, and the nearby Quality Chop House (a design-world favourite – Peter Saville rarely ate anywhere else). Meanwhile, Fergus had completed seven years of studies at the Architectural Association, but ever more at home in the kitchen, converted himself into a chef of rigorous convictions. Then Fergus met Margot. Here, family and friends from every part of London’s creative community tell their story. In order of appearance Annabelle Harty, sister of Fergus. Runs architecture practice Harty and Harty with her husband Stephen Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, chef and food campaigner James Moores, owner and developer of Rochelle School. Runs Linley Farm with wife Diana Guinness, providing organic meat, vegetables and…

1 ‘2.55’ bag (2022) by Chanel Few handbags are as coveted or copied as the ‘2.55’, Chanel’s signature quilted flap design first created by Coco Chanel in February 1955 (the month and year from which it takes its name). Over half a century on, creative director Virginie Viard continues to explore Chanel’s timeless accessory, here reimagined in shocking pink cashmere tweed. 2 ‘Skeleton’ cutlery (2018) by Nendo, for Valerie Objects Asymmetrical and idiosyncratic, Nendo’s ‘Skeleton’ cutlery set demonstrates the Japanese studio’s exceptional ability to reinvent conventional forms. The lighthearted charm of each piece makes it an irresistible addition to the dinner table. 3 ‘CH24 Wishbone’ chair (1949) by Hans J Wegner, for Carl Hansen & Søn A hallmark of midcentury Danish design, the ‘CH24’ was architect Wegner’s first contribution to…

01. ARIES Never design anything that cannot be made. —Jean Prouvé, born 8 April 1901 The new year wants you to be pragmatic, energetic and combative: Jupiter will be by your side, giving you luck and optimism. You have a very good chance of success if you carefully evaluate the timing of your projects. The challenge will lie in thinking before acting, a skill that is not exactly congenial to your sign. To accomplish this mission, you can count on the help of Saturn in Aquarius, which will give you clarity of mind, and Venus in Aquarius, which will give you new friends. Those who are already committed will find new momentum and connections. 02. TAURUS Architecture isn’t just about creating new buildings, sometimes it’s about retuning what’s already there.…

Conceived in 2000 as a global index of emerging design talent, the Wallpaper* Architects’ Directory is our annual listing of promising young practices from around the world. Over the years, the project has showcased inspiring work with an emphasis on the residential realm. Now including more than 500 alumni, the Directory is back for its 22nd year. Visit Wallpaper.com to check out this year’s survey, which highlights the work of 20 studios from Australia, Belgium, Canada, Chile, China, the Czech Republic, Ecuador, France, Greece, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Japan, Nigeria, Paraguay, Thailand, the UAE, the UK, the US and Vietnam, all offering plenty of promise, ideas and exciting architecture. Alcorn Middleton Australia Architensions US ARP Greece Atelier Luke Australia and Japan Equipo de Arquitectura Paraguay Estudio Felipe Escudero Ecuador HAS…

Cosmetic dermatologist Dr Frances Prenna Jones calls the waiting room of her office in London’s Mayfair her ‘disco room’. There are glitter balls on display, alongside an incongruous collection of other items including department store-style vanity tables and a Fritz Hansen chair, all of it bathed in an ambient neon yellow light. It seems odd at first – especially considering that the room is regularly visited by some of the city’s most famous faces – but it soon becomes clear that this relaxed, jovial space is a reflection of the Dr Jones philosophy. ‘Everybody wants to feel seen and everybody wants to feel well,’ she says. ‘I wanted to create an environment where people don’t feel guilty or intimidated. I want people to come into this space and think it…

Rochelle Canteen: a story in four courses, photographed by Oskar Proctor Lindberg puts inclusivity at the heart of its design ethos. The Danish brand conceives its eyewear on the premise that most people will require spectacles during the course of their lives, and the design of its lightweight titanium frames can be personalised and adjusted to suit any and all faces. Lindberg’s extensive modular system currently offers a multitude of different combinations of colour, lens shape and temple design from which to build a pair of glasses to suit the unique needs and preferences of the individual customer. Other frame choices – temple inclination, width of clips or nose bridge, length and shape of nose pad arms – are predicated on the wearer’s facial features. A low temple inclination, for…

‘Andrés is a visual poet and a true pioneer of the digital realm’ ‘Dion has a truly unique sensibility. He’s able to construct sexy designs that are not only fluid, but also architectural and sculptural’ ‘Honor is one of the most coveted artists working today. His paintings feel both fresh and timeless, they are clearly part of a tradition, but are also full of life’ ‘Brent’s music transcends R&B. He’s truly in his own lane when it comes to sound and songwriting’ ‘Mary’s juxtaposition of neon lighting among painterly strokes evokes incredible tension’ Andrés Reisinger At just 32, the Argentinian is one of the most sought-after 3D artists in the world Since establishing his eponymous studio in Barcelona in 2018, Andrés Reisinger has helped to define the look and feel…

William Kentridge has been a global creative powerhouse for the best part of two decades, yet it feels like he’s only just entering his stride. South Africa’s most influential contemporary artist is the subject of a major autumn exhibition at London’s Royal Academy of Arts, which will fill its Main Galleries with works spanning Kentridge’s wide-ranging practice, from drawing, etchings, collage, printmaking, film and sculpture to tapestry, theatre, opera, dance and music. Kentridge’s performative, poetic and literary output mark him out as a Renaissance man, but in a distinctive sense that is at once African – he identifies simply as African – but which also bears traces of his Lithuanian Jewish heritage. Kentridge was born in Johannesburg in apartheid South Africa in 1955. His father, Sydney Kentridge, became a leading…

In Helsinki, it’s hard to miss Marimekko: the bold, joyful prints of the much-loved textile house appear in restaurants and bars, on billboards and trams, on cushions and cutlery. They are as Finnish as reindeer and sauna. Ask any Finnish woman, and she will have an item of Marimekko, vintage or otherwise, tucked away somewhere in the wardrobe. Today, the poppy print Unikko is the most familiar of Marimekko’s designs, but the brand was already famous by the time it was launched in 1964, thanks to the entrepreneurial force of its female founder Armi Ratia and her young designer Vuokko Nurmesniemi. Their unstructured dresses and unisex shirts and overalls, printed with stripes, zigzags and ovals in pink and orange and blue and green, brought colour and joy to a dark,…

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For more than 60 years, Pasadena-based artist Helen Pashgian has toyed with the limits of optical perception and material perfection. A pioneer of California’s Light and Space movement, she is best known for hyper-polished spherical sculptures that trap light and radiate colour. Pashgian kept us eagerly waiting while she ‘recalibrated her oven’ to fine-tune a family recipe for meringue. When the oven wouldn’t play ball, the artist herself recalibrated with an innovative corn dish that she learnt from her grandmother at age ten. ‘This works great for a barbecue. The quick cooking retains the flavour of the fresh corn,’ she says of the dish, which falls ‘somewhere between eating a corn soufflé and corn on the cob’. lehmannmaupin.com. For Pashgian’s recipe, see Wallpaper.com…