Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2022 i Wallpaper

East London jewellery designer Liv Luttrell imbues her pieces with a sculptural sensibility, tracing the natural contours of the human form in whorls of yellow gold and loops of silver. ‘I have always enjoyed the sensuality of shaping metal,’ she says. ‘There is a real feeling of adventure faced with a flat piece of metal that I sculpt with sometimes subtle, sometimes bold moves to create drama and volume.’ By reducing the design to its essential form, she shifts our focus to simple silhouettes and easy wearability. Understated elements in her jewellery make for enticing accents: a juxtaposition of finishes on the silver Vol ring creates a rich texture, the Twist hoop earrings curve around the lobe, while a bespoke clip on the Twist pendants brings functionality to the forefront.…

‘I wanted something erotic, psychedelic, touching on surrealism,’ says Jonathan Anderson of his S/S22 womenswear collection for Loewe. The brand’s creative director looked to artist Man Ray for inspiration, presenting a series of striking stilettos with heels in the form of a rose, a bar of soap, and a candle. ‘There’s an interesting irony within the readymade,’ says Anderson, who also asked us to change our perspective on how we take in someone’s outfit. ‘The eye usually reads a fashion look from the bottom upwards,’ he says. But at Loewe’s Paris show, the models appeared from a trapdoor in the catwalk, encouraging the audience to take in the ensembles head first. As the eye traces the silhouette, it is surprised by a final surrealistic flourish at the sole of the…

Pierre Yovanovitch’s desk accessories collection marks a radical departure for Dior Maison, a brand renowned for its fine porcelain, toile de Jouy patterns and cannage-patterned crystalware. ‘Midi’, as the new 15-piece collection is called, is characterised by sculptural lines and a pared-back material palette. Despite the typically exquisite craftsmanship, there is a refreshing groundedness to the pieces, which the brand describes as ‘an invitation to indulge in the sweetness of life’. This is Yovanovitch’s second collaboration with Dior, following on from the ‘Monsieur and Madame Dior’ chairs, which were a standout attraction of the brand’s ‘Chaise Medallion’ group show at Milan Design Week 2021. Yovanovitch benefits from long-standing partnerships with leading French and Swiss craftspeople, and launched his namesake furniture label in 2021 to critical acclaim (see W*266). So ‘Midi’…

Back in 1972, the architect and designer Mario Bellini conceived ‘Le Bambole’, a playful sofa for groovy living rooms that would go on to become one of the icons of 1970s Italian style. Manufactured by Piero Ambrogio Busnelli and Cesare Cassina’s C&B Italia (which would become B&B Italia in 1973 when Busnelli took full ownership), it is a vital piece of Italian design history that was awarded the Compasso d’Oro prize in 1979, and is still produced today by B&B Italia. Without courageous and far-sighted entrepreneurs who are willing to take risks and put their trust in talented emerging designers to bring forth innovation, ingenuity can fall by the wayside. Bellini and his manufacturer found one another, and the rest is history. And to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Bellini’s…

Huang Wenjing and Li Hu came of age as architects in New York, after they graduated from Beijing’s Tsinghua University in the 1990s. It was there – while Li was at Steven Holl Architects and Huang at Pei Cobb Freed & Partners – that they had the idea of starting their own practice. Having gained more experience and a clearer understanding of architecture, the pair eventually opened their Beijing office in 2008, the year of the Beijing Summer Olympics, on one of the capital’s distinctive hutongs; their office is still there today. The name Open Architecture was inspired by the type of open-source computer hardware or software that allows a simple, free and customisable interchange of components. One of the pair’s earlier projects, Beehive Dorm, a 2009 modular building system…

Models: Elhadji and Ousmane at Amy Mgmt, Aly, Amadou, Babacar, Cheikh, Habibe, Ibrahim, Lamine, Modou Dieng, Modou Diop, Mohamed and Momodou Special thanks to the Malika Surf Camp in Dakar, Aziz, Marta and everyone there who made this possible…

Indian artist Shilpa Gupta is known for her empathetic, poetic explorations of social justice and freedom of expression (or lack thereof). Whether it’s amplifying the voices of incarcerated poets or modifying utilitarian devices to unpick the political weight of language, the artist’s wide-ranging, often participatory approach to media, from found objects to soundscapes, seeks to challenge assumptions on power and truth. Like her work, Gupta’s recipe for methi thepla, a traditional Indian flatbread, is potent, steeped in history and leaves room for interpretation. ‘It can be a snack or a full meal,’ says the artist, who staged her first major London show at the Barbican last year. ‘When rolled up with some lemon or garlic pickle, it makes for the perfect travel food. It tastes delicious when accompanied with cold…

Intent on making finely-cut crystal objects that are suitable for an everyday landscape, Saint-Louis and French designer Pierre Charpin collaborated to create ‘Cadence’, a 29-piece collection that spans everything from carafes to candlesticks. The pieces, elegantly adorned with vertical and horizontal lines, are heavy enough to not feel intimidatingly delicate, but light enough to be used for long stretches of time. ‘I think we want to have objects around us that make sense, that fit in with our everyday lives,’ says Saint-Louis’ artistic director Anne Lhomme. ‘Even if these objects have a pretty aesthetic and are made of crystal, they are objects you will use regularly.’ saint-louis.com…

Rare is the fashion house that finds the elixir to longevity: a leader inextricable from the brand’s identity, a timeless appeal, and an ability to pivot across creative disciplines with conviction. One such brand is Giorgio Armani – founded almost five decades ago, it continues to be steered by its razor-sharp founder, and its blend of geometry, clarity and quality remain as intact and alluring as ever. In 2000, the brand unveiled Armani Casa, a full-scale expansion into the interior design world, with wide-ranging offerings in furniture, accessories and decorative objects, and later, an in-house studio in charge of Armani-branded hotels and residences. Now, Armani Casa is entering another creative sphere: art, with a new project aptly titled Art & Armani Casa. Art directed by Nick Vinson of Vinson &…

Graffiti and Italian furniture making might appear worlds apart, but a new collaboration between Poltrona Frau and Argentine-Spanish artist Felipe Pantone proves that creative cross-pollination knows no boundaries. As part of its 110th anniversary celebrations, the Italian brand has invited Pantone to create a graphic treatment for Jean-Marie Massaud’s 2009 ‘Archibald’ chair, offering a fresh take on what has become a design icon in just over a decade. This is Poltrona Frau’s first collaboration with an international contemporary artist, and the piece also represents an ongoing move towards sustainable furniture making, specifically in its use of the company’s new Impact Less leather. Impact Less is specially developed to reduce leather’s environmental footprint. Poltrona Frau has worked with two local tanneries that avoid the use of heavy metals, reduce the use…

Hublot Hublot’s futuristic ‘Big Bang Integral’ cuts a smooth silhouette thanks to its seamlessly-integrated bracelet. This new piece is cast in grade five titanium, the strongest available and chosen for both its lightness and strength, while its practical anti-corrosion properties make it comfortable to wear on the skin. ‘Big Bang Integral Time Only’ watch, £14,700, by Hublot Bell & Ross Usually inspired by military history, Bell & Ross takes a more urban bent with its new ‘BR 05 Horolum’ model, a reworking of 2017’s ‘BR 03-92 Horolum’. This new watch takes inspiration from cityscapes in a micro-blasted steel that recalls the unpolished tones of concrete. ‘BR 05 Horolum’ watch, limited edition of 250, £4,500, by Bell & Ross TAG Heuer Epitomising sporty functionality, TAG Heuer’s new ‘Aquaracer Professional 200 Date’…

Going to the right schools, finding the right work placements and mixing in established circles is often key to success in the design industry. None of that applied to Tariq Dixon, the founder of the New York City-based Trnk, which launched as an online store for vintage furniture in 2013 before expanding into a platform for international contemporary design. An extension of Dixon’s personal love of collecting objects, Trnk has become a stealth resource for the discerning, particularly since it launched its namesake furniture line in 2017. Dixon, a former menswear buyer, considers himself as an industry outsider in more ways than one. ‘Design wasn’t my original career or education,’ he says. ‘At Trnk, we always apply a level of approachability. We like celebrating the ways in which objects inform…

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A perennial fixture in our wardrobes, thanks to its power to transition from one season to the next, the trench coat has been reimagined over the years in a myriad of guises, ranging from timeless staples to fully outré interpretations. For S/S22, designers delivered some exquisite new ideas. Satoshi Kondo, creative director at Issey Miyake, created a ‘reveal and conceal’ buttoned-up, peek-a-boo asymmetric front, while Aspesi’s offering was generously long. Loro Piana, ever the expert in refined understatement, layered a tantalising flash of lemon yellow as an undercoat beneath its single-breasted overcoat, and Celine’s precise cut was a best-in-class ‘if it ain’t broke’ classic. At Anest Collective, the Shanghai- and Milan-based label that specialises in unconventional tailoring executed with expert craftsmanship, contributing creative director Brendan Mullane reworked the signature single-breasted…

Since the Russian invasion of Ukraine in February, many around the world have sought ways to help those at risk. One such initiative is a solidarity print sale, featuring leading artists, that has been organised by artist Adam Broomberg in partnership with Artists at Risk (AR), a non-profit organisation operating at the intersection of human rights and the arts. For the first round, each artist has donated an open-edition print, priced at €200 and available to purchase until 30 April. All proceeds from sales will help to facilitate emergency travel, shelter and financial support for affected artists in Ukraine, Belarus, Russia and beyond. Featured artists include Nan Goldin, Isaac Julien, Tacita Dean, Luc Tuymans, Rosemarie Trockel, Thomas Demand, Jeremy Deller, Camille Henrot, Thomas Struth, Rirkrit Tiravanija, Matthew Barney, Hito Steyerl…

First designed in 1923 for cross-country drivers to carry their belongings as they sped around the world, Hermès’ Bolide holdall has long encapsulated the spirit of adventure. For S/S22, the house’s menswear artistic director Véronique Nichanian looked to a more contemporary mode of transport, exchanging the bag’s leather base for the gently curved deck of a skateboard, with four metal studs in lieu of wheels. Says Nichanian, ‘It aims to encourage people to get out and roam.’ This is the type of hybrid that Nichanian has proved adept at dreaming up, the bag’s colourful underside (a fusion of three silk twill scarf prints from the Hermès archives) revealed only when the bag is held aloft, a playful design trick as captivating as a skater mid-flight. hermes.com…

Dries Van Noten likens smelling his perfume to eating olives. ‘The first one makes you go, “Ooh, what is this?”’ he says over Zoom from his Antwerp studio. ‘But after that, you always like it. I think you have to learn to appreciate things, and sometimes you have to learn to appreciate my vision of beauty.’ That beauty can – and often should – be consciously attained rather than instantly perceived has been a defining feature of Van Noten’s work since he showed his first fashion collection in 1986. The Belgian designer is a connoisseur of contradictions, with a matchless ability to synthesise sartorial opposites. Collections are influenced by the high-brow (he once based an entire season on Elizabeth Peyton’s painting, Democrats Are More Beautiful) and the mundane (prints made…

In 1946, when Christian Dior saw the four-storey hôtel particulier at 30 Avenue Montaigne, built in the 1860s for a son of Napoleon, he knew he had to have it for his new fashion house. It was elegant, of manageable size, and located close to potential customers staying at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée. In 2018, when Pietro Beccari, the newly-arrived CEO of Dior, was formulating a strategic plan for the company’s future, he looked back to this beginning. ‘I was thinking of ways to make Dior even more exceptional. I thought the answer was under my nose. It’s rare to have a building where the history of your own maison started, and where you still feel the owner, Monsieur Dior, in the walls.’ This was right after the ‘Christian Dior:…

The creative director and founder of jewellery brand Laud, Awah intertwines contemporary jewellery techniques with historical influences, drawing inspiration from the clean lines of African glass art. Individually hand-carved jewellery pieces have curved facets that nod to fragmented panels of stained glass, and classic designs in yellow gold – a carabiner, a simple hoop – become modern adornments when subjected to his signature hammered finish. ‘Visually, there’s a perpetual homage to stained glass in all Laud jewellery and objects,’ says Awah. ‘Because each piece is carved by hand, no two pieces have the same finish.’ The paved settings, sitting on the angles of facets, refract light in the same way as stained glass panels, creating a dazzling distortion. ‘It is directly inspired by dalle de verre stained glass, a time-honoured…

Bodil Kjær is as precise as the architectural lines of her furniture. Ahead of an interview, she sends talking points that read like a manifesto: ‘I am not a furniture designer; I am a designer of environments. I am concerned about solving problems of the kind that can be defined. I am concerned about delight and beauty rather than opulence and vulgarity.’ She turned 90 in March and is as clear, forthright and consistent as the texts that she wrote 45 or more years ago. When asked if she is surprised about the full-on revival of interest in her designs, Kjær says, ‘No, I have done the same thing all along.’ It just took a while for a new generation to catch up. ‘I go out, I see a problem…

A Adidas adidas.com Alexander McQueen alexandermcqueen.com Anest Collective anestcollective.com Aspesi aspesi.com Audemars Piguet audemarspiguet.com B B&B Italia bebitalia.com Bell & Ross bellross.com Berluti berluti.com Burberry burberry.com C Carl Hansen & Søn carlhansen.com Cassina cassina.com Celine celine.com Comme des Garçons at Dover Street Market doverstreetmarket.com D Dedon dedon.de Desalto desalto.it Dior dior.com Dries Van Noten driesvannoten.com E Emu emu.it Ernest W Baker ernest-w-baker.com Ethimo ethimo.com Expormim expormim.com Exteta exteta.it F Ferm Living fermliving.com Flexform flexform.it G Gubi gubi.com H Hermès hermes.com Hublot hublot.com I Issey Miyake isseymiyake.com K Kettal kettal.com Khaite khaite.com L Lacoste lacoste.com Lanvin lanvin.com Le Vif levifparis.com Living Divani livingdivani.it Liv Luttrell livluttrell.com Loewe loewe.com Loro Piana loropiana.com Louis Vuitton louisvuitton.com Luceplan luceplan.com M Margaret Howell margarethowell.co.uk Minotti minotti.com Monument monumentstore.co.uk P Passage Paris passageparis.com Paul Smith paulsmith.com…