Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2022 i Wallpaper

For S/S22, Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri had feisty footwear shapes in mind, crafting a striking shoe style that laced delicately around the leg and called to mind a battle-ready boxing boot or gladiator sandal. Chiuri was also captivated by the liberated spirit of the 1960s, serving up mod-centric looks that celebrated the slim signature silhouette that then-creative director Marc Bohan pioneered in 1961. Proportions were short, and Dior’s colour palette was positively prismatic, revelling in lime, tangerine and lavender. Chiuri’s lace-up boot sparkled down the catwalk, glinting with graphic sequins and exuding a fantastic frivolity. After a period of style sobriety, there’s a new strength in shimmer, which we guarantee will score you style points, whether you’re boxing, battling or breaking moves. dior.com…

Technical prowess is synonymous with Danish eyewear brand Lindberg, which pushes the boundaries of design to create its opticals and sunglasses with industrial precision. Taking titanium to new heights, the brand’s latest collection, ‘Thintanium’, offers flexible and durable designs that weigh as little as 3.3g. All styles in the collection boast a screwless cylinder hinge and their interlocking parts fit precisely together using friction. Named after the revolutionary thin titanium strip developed by Lindberg, the collection is minimalist, light and elegant, and features everything from modern round shapes to edged square designs. We’ve particularly got our eye on these ‘5507’ sunglasses – created with an ultra-thin rim in striking turquoise, they fuse a classic aviator silhouette with cutting-edge engineering. lindberg.com…

Boghossian brings a subversive subtlety to designs that riff off sharp technical expertise and luscious gems. The Geneva-based high jewellery brand is famously bold in its design methods, carving priceless gemstones into intricate forms and hovering stones in invisible settings so they appear to float, magically, in thin air. Here, a geometric clash and play on pastels adds an edge to a necklace and earrings set featuring aquamarines, morganites and green tourmalines. Cast in sorbet shades and laced with diamonds, this is hedonistic high jewellery for summer and beyond. boghossianjewels.com…

Alexandra Bircken often compares her work to skin. For her, it’s a membrane between internal and external; it’s what protects us, what makes us permeable and what functions as the canvas we dress and exhibit to the world. It seems logical, then, that the German artist began a career working with the second skin of humanity: fashion. In the early 1990s, Bircken left Remscheid, her hometown near Cologne, for the UK, with her lifelong friends Wolfgang Tillmans and Lutz Huelle (she and Huelle will stage a joint show at Paris’ Fondation Pernod Ricard in November). In London, she studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins. ‘I had been reading i-D and The Face, and [London] is where I wanted to be. The underground fashion and eccentricity didn’t exist – and…

Gabriela Hearst compares operating a Parisian womenswear brand with a sustainable ethos to making an Italian Caprese salad. ‘You need to be working with the best ingredients, great tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella,’ she explains. ‘Before I joined Chloé, there was an oversight in the ingredients being used to create its final product.’ Before the Uruguayan designer became creative director of Chloé – a brand associated with an insouciant spirit and beachy bohemianism – in December 2020, she had been running her eponymous New York men’s and women’s label like a cult zerowaste trattoria. Founded in 2015, the same year Hearst began remotely running her late father’s 17,000 acre ranch in Paysandú, western Uruguay, it had an environmentalist approach from the outset. Timeless and uncompromising in its aesthetic, the plastic-free brand…

Wallpaper* subscribers enjoy exclusive, limited-edition, artist-designed covers To subscribe, visit wallpaper.com/sub22 A Wallpaper* subscription ensures: * Collectable, artist-designed covers * 12 issues a year for £100/$140/€157 * Delivery every month Our limited-edition covers, available only to subscribers, are created by a leading artist, designer or architect each month. Past contributors range from Jony Ive to Jenny Holzer, Yayoi Kusama to Tom Sachs, Isaac Julien to Karl Lagerfeld. See just a few of our favourites here, and subscribe for many more unique artworks to come. Offer closes CREDITS 31 December 2022. For full terms and conditions, visit magazinesdirect.com/terms…

Channelling his longing for his Tuscan holiday home in Lucca, Paul Smith’s menswear offering for S/S22 exuded breezy tailoring and tones synonymous with balmy escape – the magenta hues of a tropical cocktail, the sugary pinks of a sorbet, the zesty oranges of sunset and the vibrant yellows of a sunflower. Elsewhere on the catwalks, designers celebrated the carefree frivolity of out-ofoffice ensembles, serving up a spectrum of beach-ready silhouettes for your suitcase. Among them were Prada’s floral motif towelling jacket, which serves as a tactile post-swim cover-up, and the brand’s signature nylon bucket hat, in mouthwatering lime. At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson’s collection evoked the bohemian decadence of Ibiza, flaunting the energetic neons and high-energy hues of the party island’s famous rave culture. The Spanish brand’s tangerine beach bag, which…

When we’re people-watching by the pool, we want to ensure we always have the best view. Which is why we’ve added this lounger, part of Paola Navone’s ‘Sunset’ collection for Italian luxury outdoor brand Exteta, to our wishlist. The collection encapsulates the spirit of the Mediterranean with pieces that combine rigorous craftsmanship, honest materials and a bit of playful fun. And we think the lounger is the collection’s most versatile and eclectic piece. Featuring bold forms and a shapeshifting attitude, it easily transforms into a chaise longue or a chair for two just by rolling the central pivoting cushion. Made of white, polished sapele mahogany and featuring a brickpatterned cover, the sunbed is a feast for the eyes and a sure way to bring a bit of Mediterranean splendour to…

Milan has taken the art of the puffer to the next level. Understandably so, since it’s only a short drive from the Alps, and on winter Fridays, city dwellers can be seen loading skis onto their car roof racks. Those bitterly cold months mean the Milanese know how to dress up their down, and if you spot someone looking especially neat in their winter warmers, there’s a high chance they’re kitted out in one of Herno’s many bombers, gilets, windstoppers, capes, parkas, trenches, blazers or raincoats. The Italian brand, which was set up in 1948 by Giuseppe Marenzi and Alessandra Diana, began as a manufacturer of raincoats, waterproofed using castor oil from the planes abandoned after the Second World War. Now it’s a global behemoth, finding infinite new ways to…

‘Jiamini means believe in yourself. I want every woman to believe in herself and focus on her success,’ says Jennifer Mulli, creative director and founder of Jiamini, in a joy-filled Zoom call. Her ebullience stems from what can only be described as an extraordinary rise for the sustainable luxury jewellery and accessories brand. Selected for the Ethical Fashion Initiative, part of the United Nations Development Programme, and also featured on Beyoncé’s Black Parade music video and directory, it has gained a devoted fan base among collectors who have fallen in love with its modern take on Kenyan artisanal jewellery. For Mulli, this has only reaffirmed her mission to create a luxury brand that is also a social enterprise and an exemplar of sustainable practices for Kenya and beyond. ‘I feel…

The polychromatic clay vessels of Japanese artist Kazuhito Kawai are quite spectacular, the cascade of small, amorphous, textured forms like lava erupting from a volcano. Kawai’s path to ceramic art was far from linear. Born in Kasama, in Ibaraki prefecture, Japan, he studied at London’s Chelsea College of Art and Design, graduating with a degree in fine art in 2007. That year, disillusioned with his future as an artist, he returned to Japan with a sense of failure and spent several years in Tokyo. He recalls, ‘Having stepped away from art, I worked as a salaryman [a Japanese term for white-collar employees that has pejorative connotations, describing men who reluctantly keep on with their boring routine]. But then I applied for a ceramics course at a local college with the…

A Acne Studios acnestudios.com Alaïa maison-alaia.com Alexander McQueen alexandermcqueen.com Amara amara.com B Balenciaga balenciaga.com Berluti berluti.com Boghossian boghossianjewels.com Boss hugoboss.com Bottega Veneta bottegaveneta.com C Carl Hansen & Søn carlhansen.com CC-Tapis cc-tapis.com Celine celine.com Chanel chanel.com Chopova Lowena chopovalowena.com Church’s church-footwear.com Comme des Garçons Homme Plus at Dover Street Market doverstreetmarket.com Commission at Ssense ssense.com Connor McKnight connor-mcknight.com Coperni coperniparis.com D Dedar dedar.com Dior dior.com Diotima diotima.world Dolce & Gabbana dolcegabbana.com Dsquared2 dsquared2.com Dunhill dunhill.com E Emporio Armani armani.com Exteta exteta.it F Fendi fendi.com G Gentle Storm gentlestorm.paris Givenchy givenchy.com Gucci gucci.com H Head of State headofstateny.com Hermès hermes.com Hoka One One hoka.com Homme Plissé Issey Miyake isseymiyake.com I Interior interior.nyc J John Lobb johnlobb.com K Kährs kahrs.com Kenneth Nicholson kennethnicholson.us L Lanvin lanvin.com Lindberg lindberg.com Little Greene littlegreene.com Loewe loewe.com Loro Piana loropiana.com Louis Vuitton louisvuitton.com M Manolo Blahnik manoloblahnik.com Margaret…

Taking the maxim ‘Life’s a beach’ to heart for S/S22, a heady host of designers created body-flaunting numbers that were as fit for dancing under a disco glitterball as barefoot on the sand. Fendi’s artistic director Kim Jones was captivated by a series of archive drawings by illustrator Antonio López, who was a regular at Studio 54 in New York before he swapped its dancefloor for the white sandy shores of St Tropez in 1970. The drawings, which featured flowing haired beauties and rainbow stripes, were emblazoned across glittering strapless dresses, best worn with no shoes. Celine also looked to the spirit of the French Riviera, staging its collection reveal on Nice’s Promenade des Anglais. Its suggested silhouette for a beach party? A gown glittering in sequins and beads, slashed…

This season, we encourage you to get creative with the self-tanner application and embrace the lines. We recommend Omorovicza’s Glam Glow self-tanner, which includes the Budapest-based brand’s patented Healing Concentrate, as well as apple pectin and almond oil, to leave skin feeling firmer and more supple. Designed to suit all skin tones, it can also be paired with the brand’s Gold Shimmer Oil and Daily Vitamin C serum for added glow. omorovicza.com…

For some, the piña colada may conjure up visions of gaudy concoctions festooned with paper parasols and straws, but for others, this is tropical sunshine in a glass. The exact history of the cocktail is somewhat disputed, but there’s no arguing with the fact that its three main ingredients – rum, pineapple juice and coconut cream – make its Caribbean origins crystal clear. Judging by the number of versions we’ve spotted around London (Oblix at The Shard does one with white chocolate, Coupette adds champagne, while Dishoom’s features chai syrup and lime juice), everyone seems to be having wistful thoughts of magical farflung getaways, but we prefer ours classically elegant, topped with a maraschino cherry. For our piña colada recipe, see Wallpaper.com…

01 CONNOR MCKNIGHT An alumnus of Bode and Kith, Brooklyn designer Connor McKnight launched his own line in 2020, focusing on what he calls ‘the Black mundane’. ‘In fashion, we have this tendency towards something that is either extremely over the top or very minimal – but I grew up in a middle-class household in the Washington metropolitan area and a lot of the things I pull come from that,’ he says. Featuring classic nylon and wool top coats and 1960s workwear trousers in luxury sports wool, his S/S22 collection is a sort of parody of the clothes the average American lives in, from sportswear to Sunday best. 02 PUPPETS AND PUPPETS Imagine a handcrafted black leather purse with a hyperrealist chocolate chip cookie made of resin stuck to its front. It…

Julien d’Ys is saying goodbye to fashion. The influential hair stylist has been one of the industry’s great renegades since the early 1980s, sporting a portfolio that includes a decades-long collaboration with Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo, wig designs for the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute, the creation of Linda Evangelista’s bob (which she credits with quadrupling her rate), and the hair on Madonna’s Re-Invention tour, as well as working with some of fashion’s greatest photographers, such as Irving Penn, Peter Lindbergh, Annie Leibovitz, Paolo Roversi and Steven Meisel. But d’Ys (born Pierrick Le Verge) always thought of himself as an artist first, and he’d been growing increasingly disappointed with an industry he feels hems him in. ‘My whole life, working for magazines and designers, I’ve created for them,’ he says.…

#129 Mickalene Thomas’ provocative depictions of Black femininity and sexuality have made their way around the world, quite literally. For the latter half of 2021, the Brooklyn-based artist showcased unseen bodies of work in ‘Beyond the Pleasure Principle’, an ambitious four-part, multi-city presentation at Lévy Gorvy galleries in New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong. Here she has put her own spin on a much-cherished dish, Ferran Adrià’s duck with chimichurri, from his book The Family Meal. ‘I’ve been cooking this for over ten years,’ says Thomas. ‘The recipe is delicious and reminds me of my travels. The way I cook it makes everyone love it, even if they don’t eat duck – some people think it’s chicken.’ For Thomas’ recipe, see Wallpaper.com…