Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2021 i Wallpaper

Inspired by the notion of a woodland picnic at dusk surrounded by fireflies, a fairytale setting with flickering roaming lights, French designer Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance conceived the ‘Folia’ portable lamp for glassware brand Saint-Louis. A nod to the forests that surround the crystal powerhouse’s factory in Lorraine, in north-east France, the wood of which fuelled the Saint-Louis ovens centuries ago, the wireless rechargeable lamps are formed either from light or dark ash, an offering from the existing 2019 range, or charcoal black ash, which is new for this year. The wood is then married with a brushed brass or bronze anodised aluminium handle and a glass shade carved with geometric patterns (available in a choice of clear crystal, clear crystal with satin bevel cuts, or crystal lined with amber), which were…

After endless months in lockdown, it’s safe to say that when we do finally re-emerge, we’ll be keen to wear pieces that don’t slow us down, but instead encourage us, metaphorically speaking, to hotfoot it to better days. At the pre-A/W21 collections, a host of Bottega Veneta’s footwear offerings conveyed this mile-a-minute message with a glamorous gait, from practical wellies in glittering rubber to chunky clogs with tyre track soles. But none did it more so than the Italian brand’s ready-to-race roller skates. Creative director Daniel Lee was fascinated by the concept of banal clothing items, and the act of transforming them into performative pieces using exuberant materials – cue dressing gown coats in eyecatching bottle-green faux fur, jeans festooned with feathers, and denim jackets shimmering with metal studs. He…

There is something about the bold, colourful, organic forms of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama’s sculptures that make them seem good enough to eat. So it’s hardly surprising that her pieces have inspired chefs to create dishes that give edible form to the Japanese artist’s works of art. Inspired by her Infinity Mirror Rooms, currently at Tate Modern, Mark Perkins, executive pastry chef at Rosewood London, has devised a Kusama afternoon tea, combining Japanese flavours with traditional French patisserie. The tea, served in the hotel’s aptly named Mirror Room, includes a trio of treats inspired by Kusama artworks and flavoured with the likes of yuzu, matcha green tea and praline. We got our paws on a couple of these colourful cakes and served our own afternoon tea alongside a coupe of…

‘Sapphire crystal is a hard material, but at the same time it is also fragile,’ says Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, who has just unveiled the first Big Bang model featuring an integrated case and bracelet both crafted from the unyielding material. The Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire builds on foundations laid with an earlier model, 2016’s Big Bang Unico Sapphire, but this new limited-edition piece goes one step further, integrating the case and the bracelet to create a streamlined silhouette, hitherto thought to be an impossible technical challenge. The watch is an elaborate puzzle of solid sapphire pieces, with 37 in the case alone – five of which are made solely from sapphire – and 165 parts in the bracelet, a third of these designed specifically to be flexible…

01 MAXIMILIAN A tribute to his Trinidadian roots and self-described mix of ‘West Indian elegance and sex appeal’, Maximilian Davis’ breakout collection featured cut-out dresses and silky shirts inspired by the 19th-century carnival outfits of Trinidad and Tobago. His latest offering, pictured here, is inspired by his grandma’s Sunday best closet and 1960s space fashion. Originally from Manchester, the London College of Fashion graduate launched his label after having worked with Grace Wales Bonner. Expect more ‘Black elegance’ from him very soon. @_mvximilian_ 02 ERNEST W BAKER The Portugal-based brand Ernest W Baker’s latest 1970s-inspired collection features 14 offbeat looks that blend Italian tailoring, Portuguese craftsmanship and American style. Having met while studying in Milan, its founders Inês Amorim and Reid Baker (the brand is named after the latter’s grandfather)…

SCAN ME The photographs in our fashion shoot read as ordinary snapshots of two housemates messing about at home. Except the home is a spectacular concrete monolith, dotted with icons of furniture design; the housemates wear A/W21 Gucci and Balenciaga to eat breakfast, Fendi to arm wrestle, and Bottega Veneta to take selfies; and one of the pair, his lips full and luscious, his brow and cheekbones razor-sharp, is clearly not human at all. The feature is the work of photographer Till Janz, whose experiments in art and technological innovation led to the conception of Hugo, a magnificently antagonistic digital persona, who has entered into this fantasy world explicitly to make Janz’s life difficult. ‘I’ve always been really interested in the intersection of storytelling and technology,’ explains the Germany-born, London-based…

Welcome to our Style issue! September marks la rentrée in more ways than one and, as our attentions turn to fantasy, we invited photographer Till Janz – alongside his fashion-provocateur alter ego Hugo, a 3D avatar – to present us with the ultimate Wallpaper* wardrobe for our newsstand cover and main menswear story. ‘He’s my second half, but he’s the half that I can’t live out in reality,’ Janz tells us. ‘I’ve always been really interested in the intersection of storytelling and technology. It’s not about perfectionism. It’s like creating an alter ego in the digital space. Which feels quite natural nowadays, because the way we present ourselves to the outside world through social media is a new reality. All of us have a second persona.’ Please do explore its associated…

The Lilliputian handbag, a style of petite proportions that is showing no sign of disappearing from the catwalks, has an inherent frivolity. In the era of new extravagance, there’s an allure to flaunting such an impractical accessory, which should ideally hang nonchalantly from the wrist or festoon a finger. We’ve set our sights on a miniscule minaudière, a rigid style that harks back to the vanity cases and cigarette boxes flaunted by Flapper girls during the Roaring Twenties. We particularly like Celine’s bourgeois-inspired take on ostentation. The Parisian maison has swathed the solid silhouette of its minaudière with a tessellation of its Triomphe logo, a motif reintroduced by artistic director Hedi Slimane. The style glints with gold hardware and shuts with a Triomphe-shaped clasp. For everything from chic soirées on…

Chanel continues to mark the centenary of its No.5 perfume in style with the unveiling of a new high jewellery collection, featuring more than 100 pieces. References to the fragrance are intertwined with the hallmarks of Chanel jewellery, with the five facets of the perfume, including the stopper, geometric bottle and sillage (scent trail), providing inspiration. In the asymmetric ‘No.5’ drop earrings, it is the number itself that takes centre stage, its elongated curves drawn in diamond-studded white gold, from which swings a pear-cut diamond. For Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio, this year’s collection is a natural continuation of both the graphic codes of Coco Chanel’s perfume and her 1932 jewellery collection, ‘Bijoux de Diamants’, offering a playful wearability, interpreting olfactory pleasures in diamonds, and…

Pandemic dressing taught us the ease of stripped-back accessorising as we swapped shoulder bags stuffed with a host of everyday accoutrements for a simple card holder and keys tucked into trousers. But, as a new razzle-dazzle world invites us to amp up our ensembles and add flair to function, how do we hold onto that pared-back practicality? We suggest looking to pieces that dovetail extravagance and utility, with Madrid-based house Loewe demonstrating this equilibrium most skilfully for A/W21. Inspired by escapist fashion, creative director Jonathan Anderson conjured up voluminous, dreamlike silhouettes in bold tones, like zigzag-stripe blouses, voluminous sleeve jackets, glittering gowns and gently poufing dresses, accentuated with silk tassels, metallic fringing and folds of fabric. This was a collection for a new normal where knockout style still prevails. Loewe’s…

When Oliver Heilmer, head of the Mini design studio in Munich, called Paul Smith last spring to talk about working together on a new project, neither of them knew quite what they were letting themselves in for. Heilmer had loved Smith’s stripey version of the original Alec Issigonis-designed Mini, one of three commissions (Kate Moss tattooed hers with spider’s webs, while David Bowie went for an all-over mirror finish) unveiled at London’s Design Museum to celebrate the Mini’s 40th birthday in 1999. So he asked Smith to come up with something similar for the new electric Mini. The call came as a welcome distraction for Smith, who was alone in his Covent Garden HQ while his team worked from home. But he wanted to make more of a mark on…

Benin in West Africa and Japan in the Far East. Ancestral pottery and space-age video games. King Houndekpinkou, an emerging ceramic artist based in Paris, pulls together these seemingly disparate influences to create sculptures characterised by bursts of bold colour, playful spikes and cracked surfaces. They are not indebted to any style or school, but instead reflect his background and perspective: a life defined by happy accidents. Of Beninese origin, Houndekpinkou, 34, was born and raised in the suburbs of Paris. As a video game-obsessed kid, he developed a fascination for Japan’s pop culture. ‘My favourite was Zelda for its colours and motion graphics. I also loved the solution-seeking side of the games. For me, Nintendo also meant getting to spend time with my cousin, who was my playmate,’ recalls…

Model: Margherita Boffetta at Select London. Casting: Svea Casting. Hair: Tosh using Bumble and Bumble. Make-up: Victoria Martin using Nars. Digi-tech/photography assistant: Daniel Gurton. Fashion assistant: Kris Bergfeldt…

To subscribe, visit wallpaper.com/sub21 A Wallpaper* subscription ensures: * Collectable, artist-designed covers * 12 issues a year for £100/$140/€180 * Delivery every month Our limited-edition covers, available only to subscribers, are created by a leading artist, designer or architect each month. Past contributors range from Jony Ive to Jenny Holzer, Yayoi Kusama to Tom Sachs, Isaac Julien to Karl Lagerfeld. See just a few of our favourites here, and subscribe for many more unique artworks to come. Offer closes 31 October 2021. For full terms and conditions, visit magazinesdirect.com/terms…

Minimalists, it’s time to rip up your reductionist rule book. Cease your streamlining, restrict your restraint and press pause on a pared-back aesthetic. Moderation has no place this season. Instead, optimism is expressed in ostentatious embellishment and kaleidoscopic colour, and excess is a signal of aesthetic excellence. Anything goes as long as it is exuberant. This was symbolised sublimely at Prada, where co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons layered up looks with shimmering sequins, retro intarsia knits and vivid Crayola colours. The most extravagant silhouette was a wrap jacket that cocooned the body in a double layer of protective paillettes and tactile fake fur. Emilio Pucci, a label that’s synonymous with glamorous getaway locations – be it sun-drenched Capri or snow-topped Gstaad – was also in the mood for…

As the prospect of freedom looms on the horizon, we encourage you to shrug off the ritualistic objects of restriction and indulge in pieces that err towards extravagance – for example, a Gucci suit, the trouser striking in a subtle flare, the jacket sumptuous in suede and boasting golden buttons, in a head-turning colour combination of pillar box red and mauve. Strut in style with a flamingo-pink feathered stole over the shoulder. We agree that exuberance isn’t for the fainthearted, but freedom calls for the fanciful, and liberation for something a little louche. Paul Smith and Fendi also proposed looks that luxuriate in pink hues, the former rebelling against the linearity of lockdown with a collection that blends the style codes of past British subcultures, such as Northern Soul obsessives,…

Long before patchouli was adopted as the signature scent of hippies everywhere, the flowering herb, with its warm, woody, musky smell, was a symbol of opulence and prestige – rumour has it that King Tut was buried with gallons of patchouli oil. Centuries later, Madonna put her own spin on the scent by infusing it into pressings of her 1989 album Like A Prayer, while in 2005, perfumer extraordinaire Serge Lutens launched iconic scent Borneo 1834, which blended patchouli with white flowers, cardamom, cacao and labdanum. Some highly glamorous new fragrances feature this intoxicating plant as their star ingredient. Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s latest creation for Dolce & Gabbana, Velvet Black Patchouli, blends its principle ingredient with notes of Sicilian blood orange, Venezuelan tonka beans and davana oil for a scent…

In Peter Doig’s Two Trees (2017), an impressionistic, dreamlike depiction of three men silhouetted against a moonlit sea, the colourful diamond patterns, camouflage details and citrus shades of their clothing have an intense tactility. The 12ft-wide painting, idiosyncratically ambiguous in its setting, seems to hold secrets within its rich brushstrokes. The figure on the right carries a silver video camera, appearing to film the other two men, who stand next to two twisted, moss-dappled trees. For A/W21, Dior menswear artistic director Kim Jones brought a sartorially-inclined lens to Doig’s oeuvre, zooming in on the bodies in the Scottish-born, Trinidad-based artist’s paintings, which draw from a wide range of photographic and artistic references (boldly hued hockey players, spectral Napoleonic soldiers, fiery lions, and figures that nod to Rousseau and Cézanne), and…

Paul Mpagi Sepuya has one of the most distinctive aesthetics in 21st-century photography. In an age of ripe discussions about representation and identity, Sepuya, who is known for placing himself and his camera in the centre of his portraits, exposes the mechanics of image-making and identity construction with each shutter release. His use of mirrors to explore the unbound possibilities of portraiture reveals the complicated system of self-perception. Thrusting identity into our eyes, he questions and explores the multifaceted nature of humanity, and negotiates the complicated notions of the gaze. How do we see and how are we seen? Sepuya, a Black queer man, explores the intersection of contemporary social discourse in his work. Questioning how categorisation frames our way of seeing, he is turning the mirror on the viewer…

111Skin 111skin.co.uk A Acne Studios acnestudios.com Amara amara.com B Balenciaga balenciaga.com Boss boss.com Bottega Veneta bottegaveneta.com Bulgari bulgari.com C Calzedonia calzedonia.com Carl Hansen & Søn carlhansen.com Cassina cassina.com Celine celine.com Chanel chanel.com Christofle christofle.com Church’s church-footwear.com Commission at Ssense ssense.com Courrèges courreges.com D Dedar dedar.com Dolce & Gabbana dolcegabbana.com E Emilio Pucci emiliopucci.com Emporio Armani armani.com Ermenegildo Zegna XXX zegna.com Ernest W Baker ernest-w-baker.com F Falke falke.com Fendi fendi.com Foreo foreo.com G Givenchy givenchy.com Gucci gucci.com H Hermès hermes.com Horace horace.co I Ines inesgloves.com J Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier jilsander.com John Lobb johnlobb.com L Lanvin lanvin.com Lobmeyr lobmeyr.at Loewe loewe.com Louis Vuitton louisvuitton.com M Malone Souliers malonesouliers.com Maximilian at Net-a-Porter net-a-porter.com Menu menuspace.com MHL by Margaret Howell margarethowell.co.uk Molteni & C molteni.it Moser moser.com N Nina Ricci ninaricci.com…

Marina Abramovic knows the power of a simple idea. Her seminal works, from walking the entire length of the Great Wall of China to locking eyes with 1,000 strangers from across a wooden table, strike an emotional chord with audiences far beyond the art world. Her enormous self-discipline, and her willingness to push the boundaries of the human body and mind, are evident in the dish she has chosen for us, a recipe by Austrian doctor Nonna Brenner. The artist explains that the barely seasoned ‘diet soup’ of flax seeds, oats and oat bran is meant to be consumed on the first day of fasting: ‘Monastic, simple and pure, it is deeply satisfying and keeps your mind peaceful and clear.’ ‘Seven Deaths’, 14 September-30 October, Lisson Gallery, London, lissongallery.com. For the…