Innholdsfortegnelse for Oct-15 i Vogue

QUESTIONS with Lupita Nyong’o The Oscar winner and our October cover girl is about to return to the stage this fall in Eclipsed. She also gives a voice to Raksha, the wolf mother, in the remake of The Jungle Book and will appear in Mira Nair’s Queen of Katwe as well as Star Wars: The Force Awakens, which is out this December. We caught up with her when she came to Vogue for her fitting, and we asked 73 of our burning questions. Denim for DAYS And nights. Fresh takes on the most classic of wardrobe staples are here, with our guide to the best jeans of the season—and investment pairs to carry you beyond, stylishly. Winter blues have never looked better than this. The Collections in REVIEW In the…

ALICIA Vikander “I have admired Annie for a long time, so I felt privileged to see her work in action. I was amazed by how much she knew about our characters. When we stepped into the frame, she made Eddie Redmayne and me feel so at ease.” THE ACTRESS ON HER SHOOT WITH LEIBOVITZ FOR “PAINTER’S PROGRESS,” PAGE 256 MERT ALAS and MARCUS PIGGOTT Mert and Marcus sound as though they could be a comedy duo or some kind of musical act. “One plays while the other sings!” Mert Alas jokes. He and Marcus Piggott are, of course, top photographers who, together, have shot nearly every star under the sun. That includes the flawless Lupita Nyong’o, who, for “Paris, Je T’aime” (page 268), traipsed around town with them in the…

I’d just returned to Charles de Gaulle from a visit to my mother’s house in Los Angeles and had been waiting an eternity for my suitcase. When the baggage-claim belt finally stopped turning, a grounds-crew person showed up with the thing in tatters, wrapped around and around with yellow tape. After much shrugging on his part and paperwork on mine, I returned to my apartment in Montmartre to survey the damage. The still-unwrapped ceramic chef’s knife I had bought in L.A. was missing, as was a favorite sundress, boatnecked and full-skirted, that had served me countless times for drinks with visiting editors. But I was especially dismayed to see what else was gone: a pair of teaklidded vintage Danish-modern spice jars, presented to me by my mother that Christmas morning…

Hidden away in the Ninth Arrondissement of 1930s Paris was a modest doorway discreetly slipped through by a Who’s Who of both Europe and the United States. The Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Mona Bismarck, Mrs. Gary Cooper, Jean Cocteau, the Aga Khan—they all flocked to enter the private salon of Suzanne Belperron. One of the twentieth century’s greatest jewelry designers, Belperron combined the sophistication and style of a Paloma Picasso with the coolgirl buzz of Eugenie Niarchos’s Venyx and the eminent French craftsmanship of Cartier. This month, more than 30 years after Belperron’s death, the doorway of a new, Daniel Romualdez–designed salon—this one high above Central Park on Fifth Avenue—opens to relaunch her brand. The striking beauty and soigné allure of Belperron, who was championed by Elsa Schiaparelli and…

At the end of 2013, a band called Wet released four sparse, doleful songs that set off a small frenzy in the music world. Critic Sasha Frere-Jones compared one of their tracks to Sinead O’Connor and Prince. “It’s completely perfect,” he said. Major record labels competed to sign the singer Kelly Zutrau, percussionist Joe Valle, and guitarist Marty Sulkow, whose genre has been roughly described as everything from folk music to R&B, before the spoils eventually went to Columbia Records. They toured internationally with London Grammar, another trio of indie darlings, and fans played the EP on repeat. And then Wet all but disappeared. Zutrau, Valle, and Sulkow, who met as college students in New York (Kelly was at Cooper Union, Joe and Marty at NYU), return this fall with…

Sophisticated sweets aren’t always what they seem. In earthy hues of slate gray and speckled red, Maison Pécou’s candy-coated almonds, apricots, and marzipan look like polished river stones. Scott Cioe, pastry chef of the Back Room at One57, modeled the hand-painted roses atop his eclairs on a dress print. And these Maggie Louise chocolates with bright swipes of color will have you playing for keeps.…

Fall’s standout memoirs trace the origins of creativity. A journey to self-possession and a portrait of an era, Hunger Makes Me a Modern Girl (Riverhead) is Sleater-Kinney icon and Portlandia cocreator Carrie Brownstein’s sharply drawn observation of the musician’s life, indelible as a song. Actress Mary-Louise Parker explores a series of defining encounters with men, from a father “heavy on the dream space” to the cabbie who witnessed the aftermath of her worst breakup, in the bruisingly honest Dear Mr. You (Scribner). A childhood with an adored, peripatetic father spurred Gloria Steinem to choose adventure and activism over security, as she recounts in My Life on the Road (Random House). The only girl among six brothers, Chicago-born author and poet Sandra Cisneros describes finding a sense of belonging in like-minded…

TIES THAT BIND FROM FAR LEFT: Nicola Walker, Mark Strong, and Phoebe Fox in Arthur Miller’s play. Costumes, An D’Huys. Makeup, Celia Burton. Produced by 10-4inc. Sittings Editor: Phyllis Posnick. Barefoot actors on a white stage enclosed by a low wall of glass blocks—otherwise, no scenery, props, or period costumes to evoke a particular time or place. Clearly, this is not your parents’ Arthur Miller. It is, in fact, the brilliant Belgian director Ivo van Hove’s potent, distilled-to-its-essence production of A View from the Bridge, Miller’s 1955 family drama about an Italian-American longshoreman’s fatal obsession with his teenage niece, which, after ecstatically received runs at London’s Young Vic and on the West End (and a slew of Olivier Awards), begins previews on Broadway this month. “Miller himself considered it a…

You never know what will greet you as you pass through the portals of Paris’s Grand Palais for a Chanel show. Will the vast space be tricked out as a Gallic supermarket or a surreal flower garden, a bistro or an iceberg? At the house’s fall couture presentation, the setting was an over-the-top casino, and the roster of illustrious patrons included house muses Kristen Stewart and Julianne Moore. When the models finally emerged, bright-pink blush illuminating their winsome faces, you couldn’t help but wonder: What exactly was going on in the imaginary hotel rooms above Karl Lagerfeld’s ersatz gambling den that resulted in those surprisingly rosy complexions? Were the bold streaks dancing across cheeks due to what Casanova, who knew all about these things, referred to as “amorous fury”? Sitting…

1. Natalia Vodianova, Vogue, 2014. 2. FRAME Denim pants, $1,049; net-a-porter.com. 3. Anthropologie chair, $1,298; anthropologie.com. 4. D.S. & Durga Portable Fireplace candle, $65; dsanddurga.com. 5. Alexander Wang jacket, $1,195; Alexander Wang, NYC. 6. Autumn arrangement by Pretty Streets Botanicals, $275; prettystreets.com. 7. Rupert Sanderson boot, $735; net-a-porter.com. 8. Brunello Cucinelli backpack; Brunello Cucinelli, NYC. 9. BCBG Max Azria jacket, $1,698; BCBG Max Azria stores. The Autumn Classic The Destination: Stowe, Vermont, for the Foliage Arts Festival As the air turns crisp, maple leaves in shades of gold, orange, and scarlet blanket the Green Mountains. Follow suit (and palette) and trek your way up Mount Mansfield— the state’s highest peak—for breathtaking views. October 9–11. 1. Forsyth Park, Savannah. 2. Ryan Roche hat, $470; ryan-roche.com. 3. The Savannah Film Festival at…

On the strength of a single mesmerizing (and Academy Award– winning) performance, Lupita Nyong’o has attained the level of fame where she’s now known by her first name only. This is her second Vogue cover in just over a year, and we’re delighted that she is gracing it with her presence again so soon, especially at a time when she has two very different projects on the horizon. On September 29 she will make her New York stage debut at the Public Theater in Danai Gurira’s challenging play Eclipsed, set during the Liberian Civil War, for a six-week run. Then, on December 18, she will be seen—or, perhaps more accurately, heard—in director J. J. Abrams’s reimagining of the Star Wars universe in The Force Awakens, where Lupita will voice a…

On the last morning of my son’s life I made him a Dutch-baby pancake. We watched with excitement through the window of the oven as the batter puffed to a great height, magically rising inches above the rim of the pan. As soon as I took it out, the pancake began to slump; I rushed it to the table, where I sprinkled its golden-brown surface with confectioners’ sugar. We sat contentedly, my two boys and I, and ate wedges of the eggy pancake with blackberry jam. Lucian had requested this breakfast, his favorite. It had been a hectic week, and on that Saturday I wanted to give him a special treat; I felt so happy to be at home with him and his little brother, Theo, who had just turned…

In her 23 years, Bel Powley has indulged in her share of youthful fashion dalliances. “When I was fourteen, I went through a Gothic stage,” says the actress. “Then came grunge—followed by an odd time when my friends and I would only wear fifties vintage dresses.” Powley, currently in the midst of a self-described “Scandinavian tomboy” phase, now favors scene-kid labels like Acne and A.P.C., though she has also transitioned seamlessly to the sort of red-carpet glamour apropos of an ingenue, thanks to her recent star turn in The Diary of a Teenage Girl. The film, which was set in the high-waisted and furcoated seventies, was a sartorial treasure trove—something Powley didn’t realize until too late. “I wish I’d kept all those bell-bottoms,” she says wistfully. “I’m sure they’re languishing…

It may be Gisele’s sheer versatility that best accounts for her long reign as the top model—various photographs in the forthcoming book Gisele Bündchen (Taschen) require double takes and long stares before she becomes recognizable. But most captivating are the images in which she is undoubtedly herself—or that towering blonde with a paradoxical mix of guilelessness and attitude we’ve come to know. Even then, the girl’s got range, sporting an icy stare and a tulle petticoat as she leaps through the desert in one photo, beaming in a bikini at her childhood home in southern Brazil in another. The career-spanning book, edited by Giovanni Bianco, also includes a simple black-and-white test shot taken when she was only fourteen. From there, it wasn’t long before Gisele was “living inside airplanes and…

Last year, on his way to racking up more than 350,000 miles of air travel, Virgil Abloh made it to the gate for 200 or so flights while working under an array of professional titles: graphic designer, DJ, architect, designer, and creative director to Kanye West. When Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh debuted in late 2013, Abloh quickly became known for reimagining the street through the lens of architecture in clothes for men and women that might be called “practical conceptual”: crisply cut pants and tops and ponchos that walk the line between eighties Pop and ancient Japanese warrior with an athletic swagger. Imagine Josef Albers working for Champion, or Eero Saarinen producing a women’s line. (Off-White’s fall 2015 women’s collection, meanwhile, plays with political slogans from the sixties.) For Abloh,…

Well, obviously, after I left Mulberry, I took some time off to defibrillate and bake cakes.” Emma Hill, the British label’s former creative director, lets out one of her trademark gorgeously voluptuous laughs. Still, Hill could bake tarte Tatin for only so long. She has swapped the kitchen of her Holland Park, west London, home, its wildly colorful decor part Bridget Riley, part Walt Disney, for a bright, open-plan design studio in Mayfair. By the time you read this, Hill & Friends, her newest venture, will have made its debut during the spring 2016 London collections. Hill & Friends is, to start with at least, a six-strong made-in-England collection of bags, though other items are likely to be added in time. (As are more friends: Currently the collaboration is between…

The rise of the individual was one of fall’s biggest takeaways, a mandate made clear not just by the array of fresh faces gracing a number of influential runways but by the varied haircuts that often accompanied them. At shows like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Céline, the backstage lineup was a wild topography of coifs that ranged from seemingly self-inflicted shags to free-form halos of curls. Yet the lasting image of the season came via an influx of ethereal, untrimmed waves. Who could resist Danish newcomer Frederikke Sofie Falbe-Hansen, her face framed by bends of corn silk as she opened Céline, or Olympia Campbell, every bit the languid Londoner at Vuitton? Call it fatigue from the ubiquitous bobs of years past, but the message seemed clear: Long live long hair.…

One recent Sunday morning, after lingering over my newspaper and coffee a moment too long, I grabbed my water bottle and rushed to the lengthening-and-toning class where I’d reserved a spot. Most of the women in the studio—in high-tech leggings and effortlessly pulled-back hair—had strong, lithe physiques like the ones Gigi Hadid and Miranda Kerr are known for. The instructor led us through a battery of core-targeted exercises: sitting in a V-shape while clenching our midsections, endless iterations of front and side planks, and lying on our backs while lifting each leg ever so slightly off the floor. Finally we stood up and performed a few brief pliés and arm lifts. Getting to the studio had been more strenuous than the exercises themselves. I longed to move my limbs more,…

More than ever, TV series like to drop us into worlds with their own quirky logic and lingo. Take Please Like Me, a hilarious Australian comedy created by the hyperverbal Josh Thomas, beginning its third season on Pivot. Thomas plays the witty, awkward Josh, whose life was in flux even before his girlfriend told him he was gay. He spends his time wading in dysfunction—looking after his bipolar mum, managing his decentbut-lost dad, hanging out with his fellow Melbourne 20-somethings. If the show’s generational portrait recalls Girls—a brainy hero hopscotching between light and darkness—Thomas views his characters with a warmth all his own. The world is literally and metaphorically colder in FX’s Fargo, Noah Hawley’s Emmywinning riff on the Coen Brothers movie known for its heavy Oh, yah Minnesota dialect.…

SPACE INVADER Musk, in a SpaceX prototype helmet, believes his company will be able to send passengers to Mars in approximately ten years. Sittings Editor: Sara Moonves. The name sounds like a men’s cologne. Or a type of ox. It sounds possibly made up. But then, so much about Elon Musk seems the creation of a fiction writer—and not necessarily one committed to realism. At 44, Musk is both superstar entrepreneur and mad scientist. Sixteen years after cofounding a company called X.com that would, following a merger, go on to become PayPal, he’s launched the electric carmaker Tesla Motors and the aerospace manufacturer SpaceX, which are among the most closely watched—some would say obsessed-over— companies in the world. He has been compared to the Christian Grey character in Fifty Shades…

Cover look 58: Dress, price upon request; (212) 355-5811 for information. Vogue.com 88: Dress, price upon request; (800) 550-0005 for information. Chanel Fine Jewelry 18K white gold–and–diamond earrings (worn in hair), priced upon request; Chanel Fine Jewelry boutiques. Editor’s letter 106: Dress, price upon request; Maison Margiela boutiques. Up front 134: Iro top, $270; iroparis.com. Derek Lam skirt, $1,395; dereklam.com. Manolo Blahnik shoes, $795; by special order at Manolo Blahnik, NYC, (212) 582-3007. Lives 142: Coat, $1,000; American Rag Cie, L.A. Blazer, $925; Dover Street Market New York. Steven Alan shirt, $178; stevenalan.com. Flash 158: Dress, $2,900; select Gucci boutiques. Bass shoes, $128; ghbass.com. View 184: On Strijd: Anorak, turtleneck (priced upon request), and heels ($867); off---white.com. Skirt at the Webster, Miami Beach. On Preston: Coat ($2,075), anorak ($1,310), long-sleeved…

THE BOLD AND THE BEAUTIFUL To me, Cara Delevingne has always been an admirable woman [“Cara Out Loud,” by Rob Haskell, photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, July]. I think she has a rare personality, strong talent, and seems like a completely genuine person. Nevertheless, reading her interview was eye-opening. Its rawness and pure honesty pulled me in. Too often such pieces tend to feel artificial, mainly because actors and actresses want to appear relatable. But that wasn’t the case here. I hope all future VOGUE profiles have the rawness that this one had. Anira O’Bannon Bel Air, MD Cara Delevingne’s ability to be honest about who she is, not only with herself but also with the world, is a quality rarely seen in everyday people—let alone those in the spotlight. Most…

GO TO VOGUE.COM TO VOTE FOR YOUR FAVORITE LOOK IN OUR 10-BEST-DRESSED LIST, POSTED EVERY MONDAY…

We cast five girls for the show from here—we really couldn’t go to an agency,” Demna Gvasalia, the head designer and founder of Vetements, explains over an espresso at the Café Crème, in the heart of the Haut Marais. It’s the kind of spot where dogs run freely under customers’ legs, the squalls of hipster infants add to the din, and lanky young patrons might just be pressed into service as models. These newly hatched mannequins walked a makeshift runway a few nights previous at Vetements’ fall 2015 show, in the unapologetically seedy confines of Le Depot, a legendary Paris gay bar. The audience, including Kanye West and Jared Leto, was treated to a breathtaking array of retooled biker jackets, oversize overcoats, slouchy jeans, hoodies, and floral dresses slashed with…

Miuccia Prada and her trusted perfumer Daniela Andrier are flipping the fragrance industry’s well-rehearsed script with a new collection that celebrates the spirit of free association. Rather than familiar flower names or signature numbers that can dictate how we perceive perfume, the ten unisex eaux in Prada’s new Olfactories range are named for pop songs and movies of decades past, selected as triggers for the imagination. Some—like the Motown hit “Heat Wave” or the New Wave single “Tainted Love”—come with immediate, emotion-conjuring recognition; while others, like “Nue au Soleil,” the title of a forgotten (to most of us) Brigitte Bardot hit from 1970, may take a little more detective work. What exactly you’re smelling may, too. Andrier is deliberately evasive about what notes are included in each watercolor-hued offering as…

The over-the-counter painkillers we reach for when we have a headache, cramps, or fever— Motrin, Aleve, Advil—have always seemed a benign form of self-medication. But the FDA is now advising us to think carefully before popping these pills. In light of new data, the authority strengthened its warning in July that nonsteroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDs)—as these medications are classified—can increase the risk of heart attack and stroke. The only exemption is aspirin, which thins the blood. Tylenol, meanwhile, carries its own risk: Excessive use of acetaminophen is linked to liver damage. Before you respond by ramping up your aspirin intake, you need to use caution. “Aspirin inhibits clotting, so continued use and high dosage increase the risk of bruising and bleeding,” explains Mark Creager, M.D., president of the American Heart Association.…

for a long time I steered away from leading roles because I didn’t know if I could handle it,” says Brie Larson, then laughs. “Now I’ve got a good therapist.” Audiences have seen flashes of that honesty and humor in the 26-year-old’s supporting work (she plays Amy Schumer’s “normal” married sister in Trainwreck), but industry people have been predicting stardom for Larson ever since her appearance in 2013’s Short Term 12, where her startlingly real presence felt like a throwback to seventies-era actresses like Sissy Spacek and Jessica Lange. Now Larson gracefully takes the lead in Room, a tautly hopeful adaptation of Emma Donoghue’s best seller about a tough, resilient mother and her five-year-old son, who are held hostage. To prepare, the actress had to eat a special “malnutrition” diet,…

DOUBLE OR NOTHING Snowy feathers, ribbed knits, and delicate lace work well for a dash around artist Joaquín Torres-García’s new retrospective, “The Arcadian Modern,” at MoMA in New York. Edie Campbell (far left) wears a Céline embroideredwool dress; Céline, NYC. Raquel Zimmermann wears a Victoria Beckham sweater ($1,495) and midi dress ($4,500); sweater at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC, and dress at net-a-porter.com. Céline sneakers on both. Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson. KICK UP YOUR HEELS Embrace the lean elegance of a pleated skirt for the revival of Caryl Churchill’s Cloud Nine—the legendary play about sexual politics from colonial Africa to seventies-era London— in New York. (A shaggy coat will come in handy afterward.) Andreea Diaconu wears a Stella McCartney faux-fur coat; Stella McCartney, NYC. No. 21 skirt, $1,033; Stanley Korshak, Dallas. Louis…

BLUE BELLE Nyong’o stars in December’s Star Wars: The Force Awakens as a pirate named Maz Kanata. Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci Haute Couture lace dress, earrings, and bag. Tiffany & Co. necklace. Photographed at Bouillon Racine. Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman. GOLDEN YEARS “It didn’t ring true,” Lupita says of being discouraged to act in Kenya because of her skin tone. In Elsa’s apartment in the Schiaparelli couture house, Lupita wears a Schiaparelli Haute Couture velvet dress. Details, see In This Issue. It’s the Monday morning of Paris Couture Week, and Lupita Nyong’o appears, right on time, from the elevator of Le Bristol hotel. Never mind that she’s come direct from a trip to her native Kenya, which she just happened to combine with an elephant-saving mission. Or that her flight…

POP GOES THE PLUMAGE Bundle up with flair—and wild, showy displays of color. Model Aya Jones (with a finely feathered crimson rosella) carries a Tod’s mink clutch with a Sacai wool–and–fox fur overcoat in firebird red and damson purple; sacai.jp. Fashion Editor: Tabitha Simmons. NIGHT OWL The essence of chic is individuality. Think of this scarf of giant fox-fur pom-poms, then, as a golden opportunity to assert your uniqueness. Model Sam Rollinson (holding a scops owl) wears a Proenza Schouler swakara fur coat; Proenza Schouler, NYC. Céline scarf. Carolina Amato leather gloves. Details, see In This Issue. PUFF PIECE Face-framing fur trim delivers a touch of Hollywood drama. Model Hollie-May Saker (here with a Polish chicken) wears a Louis Vuitton leather jacket with shearling collar, knit top, double-buckle miniskirt, and…

Eddie Borgo bracelet, $980 “It’s a cut-and-paste of shapes,” says Eddie Borgo of this decadently geometric cuff, constructed from linked and meshed citrine spurs and quartz orbs. “I was inspired by collage, by layering the familiar.” Consider it the final piece in the jewelry-box puzzle: The bracelet is bold yet gentle (a signature Borgo balance) and playfully versatile—as chic with a black evening dress as with a white T-shirt. “It has the spirit of fine jewelry,” says the designer, “but without the responsibility!”…