Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2024 i Vogue

It’s summer in Italy, which means the trains are delayed and the air-conditioning is broken. I arrive in Milan from Rome, disheveled and an hour and a half late, to meet the creative director of Bally, Simone Bellotti, at the label’s atelier in Viale Piave, but Bellotti—despite being in the midst of preparing his next collection—greets me with a humble, calm aura. As we walk through the showroom, a wunderkammer filled with Alpine cultural references and beautiful objects, accessories, and clothes, an elegant model appears and disappears wearing different looks, making me wish I were 20 years younger so I could be brave enough for these sexy Swiss culottes, high-stringed leather boots, and studded handbags. Since becoming Bally’s creative director in May 2023, Bellotti, 45, has been combining the romance…

Three years ago, Francesco Clemente was in his Manhattan studio speaking with a friend, a devoted vegetarian, by phone. “She was asking me if we should go have a meal at Daniel’s restaurant,” recalls Clemente, meaning the much-acclaimed and then newly plantbased Eleven Madison Park, helmed by chef Daniel Humm. “I said to her, ‘I don’t know Daniel.’ And then the bell rang, and Daniel was in the room.” Humm, consistently recognized as one of the best and most innovative chefs in the world, was tagging along with the gallerist Vito Schnabel, a mutual friend, who had some business to attend to with Clemente before he and Humm continued on to the US Open. To Clemente, this was no coincidence. “I’m very good at not second-guessing anything that happens,” he…

It’s a Sunday morning in springtime London, and Rachel Zegler and Kit Connor are standing on a park bench in Primrose Hill. They raise their hands to their mouths in unison, and as the photographer calls, One, two, three, they scream into the void. Over the next few hours, not even the whipping winds of a blustery, overcast afternoon can deter them from giving the camera their all. Eventually, though, a different kind of reality sets in: It’s 55 degrees, and once Zegler’s pink satin skirt has been fluffed for the final time, she’s bundled into a puffer jacket with a hot water bottle and sent to her trailer. That’s where I find them—Zegler with a silk scarf covering her hair, Connor’s cheeks turned ruddy by the weather—leaning on a…

Cap It Off “Does anyone still wear a hat?” That was a question posed in the Sondheim musical Company way back in 1970—but, as Vogue contributing fashion editor Max Ortega observed at the fall shows, the answer in 2024 is a resounding yes. “Hats had recently fallen off, but for fall there were so many exciting new ways to see them,” he says. In his story “Hat Tricks” (page 322), shot by Sean Thomas, the cast of mad hatters included models Abby Champion, Alton Mason, and Ugbad Abdi (above), as well as actors Sarah Pidgeon and Juliana Canfield, whose 1970s-set play Stereophonic fit the theme. As Ortega notes, “The show is about something nostalgic, but staged in a modern way.” Adventure Time This month’s transporting cover story, “The Heist of…

It was the summer of 1984. Republican Ronald Reagan was running for reelection against Democrat Walter Mondale, who had picked a woman, Geraldine Ferraro, for his running mate. I was watching the political conventions on my little pink TV—no cable—in my apartment on East Ninth Street that cost $177 a month, wearing a silky flapper frock bought from a vintage store on St. Marks Place. Let the rest of the world flounce to the ballot box in neon colors, miniskirts, big-shoulder overcoats, and Jane Fonda workout clothes: I was dressed for the occasion as if it were 1924, not 1984, with prohibition in full swing and Republican Calvin Coolidge winning the White House. (The waggish journalist and cultural critic H. L. Mencken once observed that electing Coolidge was like a…

Have you ever spent a really long time looking at a diagram of butanoate metabolism? Or wondered if your Firmicutes are producing butyrate? I’ve been having all kinds of thoughts like this since sending my intestinal microbes to verified labs for identification and testing. I’m a food writer, not a science writer. But as I explain to my husband while googling “how to identify your microbiota,” it’s a logical professional evolution from food to digestion. I’ve long been preoccupied by my colon. My father died of colon cancer when I was a teenager; mine is of the utmost concern. Digestive health has always been rather niche—not to mention private. But suddenly, everyone talks about “gut health.” We talk, specifically, about our microbiomes—the trillions of bacteria that inhabit us, which have…

Recently, in the name of research, I found myself on a waterbed for the first time since elementary school. I put on a set of headphones, and the bed began to pulse in sync with the hypnotic, repetitive sounds blasting into my ears. My entire body was vibrating like the floor of a nightclub. As the tones began to vary, my mind went elsewhere, everywhere, nowhere. When I awoke 40 blissful minutes later, I certainly felt like my molecules had been rearranged. “A spa treatment for your DNA” is the tagline for Quantum Clinic, a year-old wellness center in Los Angeles’s Frogtown neighborhood. The minimalist space may look like a Scandinavian luxury spa, but there are no mani-pedis here: Instead, they offer sound- and vibration-based experiences they call “frequency therapy”—treatments…

Some novelists have a mode, others vary widely. Count Rachel Kushner among the latter, following up The Mars Room (2018), which was set partly inside a women’s prison, with Creation Lake (Scribner), set in the dusty backwaters of rural France. There, a charismatic leader, Bruno Lacombe, has established a kind of commune that someone (their identity remains mysterious) wants to disassemble. Whoever sees a threat in the motley counterculture crew has sent a spook who goes by “Sadie” to infiltrate them. Sadie is confident in her deceptions, seducing her way inside. But as the plot unspools, questions of control and coercion, realism and idealism are layered on top of Kushner’s enveloping noir. Sadie has a brash confidence and a manner of moving through the world that is aloof in the…

PRECIOUS LEE GEORGIA I was raised in Atlanta, in Fulton County, and grew up knowing that voting is a privilege that was handed to me by the blood of my ancestors. Civil rights activists fought for equality through the power of the vote. I felt so incredibly grateful that I was able to cast my first vote for Barack Obama when I was attending Clark Atlanta University. The entire Atlanta University Center—Morehouse, Spelman, Morehouse School of Medicine, and Clark Atlanta—was bursting with pride and pure joy. We all knew that we were a part of history. That election was all hands on deck, and we made it happen. Fulton County has always been crucial in elections, so no matter where I am in the world, I make sure I get…

Miu Miu pouch and brooch When a spare look wants for a little bounce, a pop of color goes a long way. Miu Miu’s fall 2024 runway had examples in abundance—orange gloves, a baby blue shirt collar, thick green tights—and whether it conceals a smartphone, house keys, or a juicy summer treat, this little pouchette made of mustard yellow silk duchesse satin works a similar magic. (Consider the sparkling brooch an added fistful of fairy dust.) Chanel rings While the Camelia Solaire ring (bottom) presents a Chanel signature in miniature, paving the maison’s forever fleur in white gold, yellow gold, yellow diamonds, and, well, regular diamonds, the No. 5 Abstraction ring (top) is something else: an enchanting crush of 18-karat yellow gold and even more diamonds, set about a large…

In 2006, I started taking Xanax and continued, more rather than less, for the next 17 years. The drug was first prescribed to me after I experienced a panic attack. I had thought that I was dying. My children were two and six years old. We were at home—my husband had gone for the day and the babysitter was late. I started sweating and had this urge to run, to get outside. I didn’t know what was wrong, but my heart felt weird and I didn’t want to die in front of my kids. So I stuffed them in a stroller and went down to the street—West 106th in Manhattan—hoping to intercept the sitter. There she was in the lobby. She took the children. I didn’t explain. On the street,…

The air in San Francisco on a cloudy May day is crisp and predictably cool. Inside the brick façade Jackson Square office of LoveFrom, the creative collective founded by former Apple chief design officer Jony Ive, I’m offered a cup of tea to fend off the morning chill (served hot with milk and sugar, as in Ive’s native UK), and as I sip from a white ceramic mug, Ive waxes poetic—and passionately—about the jackets he and the LoveFrom team have designed with Moncler. “The motivation was so clear and pure,” says Ive, 57, whose work at Apple made him one of the most celebrated tech designers in the world. “We wanted to collaborate… just for the love of doing it.” This, he tells me, is the case with most LoveFrom…

I am an early adopter of the colored-mascara trend. In junior high, I wore a royal blue Maybelline shade; in high school, I was batting around an electric turquoise hue. I’ve hoarded samples of YSL Beauté’s Vinyl Couture mascara, which, true to its name, appears to lacquer the lash. But if the colored mascara of yesterday was about the shock of the unexpected, today’s is about a subtle shift. At the Hermès fall 2024 show, model América González blinked a cherrybrown shade of Trait d’Hermès Revitalizing Care Mascara down the runway, while Lily Gladstone wore a navy lash tint from Le Rouge Français at Cannes. Reportedly, the iris-enhancing optical effect of maroon mascaras has recently caused drugstore brands to sell out. People aren’t wearing as much on their faces, says…

Earlier this year, the New York–based fashion designer Willy Chavarria sprayed Parfums de Marly’s Haltane on not just himself but on his models, the roses he left on the seats, and throughout Brooklyn’s Greenpoint Terminal Warehouse. Afterward, Chavarria pretended to imbibe from a novelty-size bottle of the scent; he drinks it “by the gallon,” he joked. Haltane is an animalic perfume, heavy on the oud—a woodsy, musky smell—mixed with more delicate florals such as lavender and bergamot. It is masculine but not overpowering, and to Chavarria, it served as another portal into his collection. “Willy was combining the power of the visible with the power of the invisible,” explains Yvan Jacqueline, president of Parfums de Marly and Initio Parfums Privés, Americas. “With smell, you can project a message that has…

Table of Contents: 70: On Zegler: dress; available upon request. On Connor: jacket; walesbonner.com. Manicurist: Hayley Evans-Smith. Tailor: Della George. Cover Look: 96: Michael Kors Collection dress; michaelkors.com. Cartier High Jewelry necklace; select Cartier boutiques. Manicurist: Elle Gerstein. Tailors: Carol Ai and Lucy Falck. 96: On De’laney: suit; tomfordfashion.com. On Rae'Jon: Adidas tracksuit; adidas.com. On Raquel and Aubony: Emilia Wickstead dresses; emiliawickstead.com. On Jamie: Dior dress; Dior boutiques. Tailor: Cha Cha Zutic. Contributors: 128: Top left image: The Row coat and hat; therow.com. Top right image: On Lively: Michael Kors Collection dress; michaelkors.com. High Alptitude: 182: Left image: bag; bally.com. Right image: shirt and skirt; bally.com. Joining Forces: 198: Poncho; moncler.com. Kendra Scott earring. Jimmy Choo boots; jimmychoo.com. Manicurist: Hayley Evans-Smith. Tailor: Della George. THE HEIST OF THE HEART 244–245:…