Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2024 i Vogue

INSPIRATION CAN COME FROM ANYWHERE—a painting, a piece of music, overheard conversation, an ephemeral moment in our lives. It’s a precious thing, but not the only thing. Creativity requires so much more: follow-through, investment and risk, mettle, heart, courage. I’ve been thinking about all of this in the wake of a fascinating season of fashion shows here and abroad—so many risk-taking collections by so many brilliant designers—and as I have watched the curator Andrew Bolton and his collaborators and colleagues at The Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute prepare the exhibition “Sleeping Beauties.” Their work has reached a fever pitch ahead of the May opening. Andrew has one of the most brilliant minds I’ve ever encountered. And he’s always, always challenging himself. I watched him come up with the idea for “Sleeping…

When the plane lurched violently in the middle of a cross-country flight, I clutched the armrest with one hand. With the other, I reached for my ear. Days earlier, wielding an oversized pair of tweezers, an acupuncturist at New York City’s WTHN clinic had affixed a constellation of tiny crystals to my outer ear. In a quiet, dimly lit room I felt a pleasing sensation when the crystals—each about the size of a large stud—were pressed against my skin. The seeds, as the crystals are called, are intended to stimulate the brain to send various signals to the body when positioned: There’s a point near the inner flap to aid with digestion and another near the top for stress. Once secured, they evoke both the edge of Maria Tash piercings…

It’s an amazing, almost inspiring thing, what happens when Zendaya gets in front of a camera. Before visiting the set of her British Vogue cover shoot in late January, I imagined her regarding the whole ordeal with gracious indifference. (The model in my mind was Ingrid Bergman at the 1975 Academy Awards, dryly telling the audience after her third career win that it was “always very nice to get an Oscar.”) Zendaya has, after all, been working in Hollywood since she was 13; she’s served as an ambassador for Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Tommy Hilfiger, Bulgari, and Lancôme; and, at 27, she’s already won the Emmy for best lead actress in a drama twice. Surely, posing for a magazine would be, dare I say it, kind of boring to her by…

Erdem shoes The blend of doughty practicality and heady glamour espoused by one Deborah “Debo” Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire, was on Erdem Moralioglu’s mind for spring 2024. (Among the socialite and memoirist’s greatest pleasures: reading, shooting, and tending a teeming flock of chickens at Chatsworth.) Erdem’s raw-edged satin kitten heels capture that spirit too: comfortable, charming—and, yes, just a little bit decadent. PHOTOGRAPHED BY AMBER PINKERTON Chanel necklace The origins of Coco Chanel’s obsession with camellias range from the nostalgic (a formative performance of Alexandre Dumas’s La Dame aux Camélias starring Sarah Bernhardt) to the romantic (a bouquet of them brandished by one Arthur “Boy” Capel, Coco’s great love). However they came into the maison’s fold, a gleaming choker with the motif at its center can’t help but inspire instant—and…

The Bees’ Knees In late January, “The Big Short” (page 166) sent photographer Colin Dodgson, contributing fashion editor Max Ortega, model Kendall Jenner, and some of the season’s shortest and sweetest looks to Los Angeles’s Kenneth Hahn park, up in the Baldwin Hills. There, in zippy separates from the likes of Max Mara, Hermès, and Chanel, Jenner frolicked in the grass, hugged a few trees, and played with a dog named Chico (belonging to producer Zachary Higginbottom). Also in on the fun were Ortega’s assistants, Minty Mellon and Conor Manning—both pictured above, with Dodgson at center—who dressed up as beekeepers. Their (very real!) gear? Courtesy of the Department of Agriculture. Making Magic To Hamish Bowles, John Galliano’s spring 2024 haute couture collection for Maison Margiela—shown beneath the Pont Alexandre III…

As a very young South Korean-born girl growing up in Utah, Anna Park fell deeply and permanently in love with drawing. “I just found it very seductive,” she tells me. “It made me feel good.” She still feels that way. Her fluent, immersive, black-and-white images, often 10 feet long, have put her in the forefront of a cohort of Asian artists who are attracting attention from curators and collectors. Her drawings have the power and presence of oil paintings but are made from charcoal or India ink. Many of them feature the smiling, perfect young women in mid-century ads, comics, or movies, but they’re clearly not as dopey as they seem. The result is a whirlwind of abstract and figurative elements that evoke the anxieties and absurdities of popular culture…

Kathleen Hanna may not be a household name within mainstream America, but for the past 30 years she has been a figurehead in what was once called the alternative music scene, first in the ’90s as the frontwoman of Bikini Kill, the feminist punk band from Olympia, Washington, that coined the term riot grrrl; and later Le Tigre, an electronic pop band whose songs were danceable and politically driven. In her memoir, Rebel Girl: My Life as a Feminist Punk (Ecco), Hanna offers short vignettes describing her difficult upbringing, the heady early days of her bands, and the swirl of other musicians who surrounded her. (“Smells Like Teen Spirit” was a phrase she wrote on Kurt Cobain’s wall one night.) Together, the anecdotes capture the life of a young woman…

When Jeremy Frey was growing up on the Passamaquoddy Indian Township Reservation in Maine, he never expected his future to be defined by weaving. Though his grandparents had been weavers, the art had been in decline. It was only when a group of elders began holding classes, and his mother took one, that he began to gravitate toward the craft. In his early 20s he tried his hand at the practice, and now he’s at the forefront of a movement pushing it to new heights. “It’s a joy to expand the definition of Wabanaki basketmaking, but it’s also a challenge,” Frey notes. His trajectory can be seen in all its complexity in “Woven,” a retrospective of his work at the Portland Museum of Art that opens this month (and…

“A piece of clothing isn’t something to just hang on a hanger or put on a mannequin,” says the photographer Nick Knight, who collaborated with Andrew Bolton, curator in charge of The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, on this groundbreaking new exhibition. “We have dreams in it and live our lives through it.” “Sleeping Beauties” uses next-gen technology to reawaken and animate masterpieces from the museum’s permanent collection—many of them very rarely seen before. In the pages that follow, a few friends pay tribute to their own icons.…

I recently had to renew my passport, and when I paged through it, there, staring back at me, was a picture of myself a decade younger—with a side part. What a shock! For the past several years I had been studiously parting my hair down the middle, shamed by TikTokers into believing the style was universally more flattering. Search the internet and you’ll find thousands of #MiddlePartChallenge videos testing its supposedly superior aesthetics. Suddenly, we millennials were dating ourselves, and I didn’t want to look old—who does? So down the middle I went, growing out my layers until I could wear two thick bunches of hair on either side of my face like Emma Stone’s character in Poor Things or a Kardashian in a confessional video. Lately, though, there is…

I leaned against the department store counter, waiting for my mother to finish shopping, my gangly legs outstretched in that particularly teenage way. In the blink of an eye, she turned and then suddenly flew into the nearby underwear display, which was tiered like a wedding cake. Only after scores of lace garments rained down upon us did I realize what happened: I had tripped her. A mixture of embarrassment, laughter, and frustration emanated from my poor mom, still prone as she said: “You and those big feet.” Puppies grow into their paws. For years growing up, my shoe size was the same as my age, and by the time I was 10, my footwear was scaring me. I finally found my groove in my late teens by leaning into…