Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2023 i Vogue

Karl Lagerfeld was a dear friend to our founder, René Lacoste. Both of them were visionaries who left their mark on their time and forever on fashion, elevating some of their designs to iconic status. Karl and René shared many common values, putting their high standards at the service of creativity. Karl had a special gift for staying true to the heritage while modernizing wardrobes. This drawing of René through Karl’s eyes is a sacred meeting of two icons. This very special edition of the iconic polo signed by Karl Lagerfeld will be forever cherished and carefully protected within our House. It is our way of ensuring that Karl Lagerfeld’s legacy and the indelible mark he leaves on fashion live on.…

On the first day of shooting Past Lives—the film-festival breakout about a woman torn between the two loves of her life—its star Greta Lee was caught unprepared when a production assistant asked if she had a “set drink.” Lee had never heard of such a thing. “I’m like, ‘Do you mean over there?’” she remembers asking, and pointing in the direction of a craft services table. “I could feel my own panic, like, I’m not playing this part correctly. We’d just started filming, and I felt I had so much to prove.” So Lee, a 20-year veteran of film, television, and the stage, did what any resourceful person would when struck by the bolt of impostor syndrome. “I went to my trailer, shut the door, and googled ‘Brie Larson, Marvel,…

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This Charming Man “My impression was of an emperor at the height of his powers, possessed of an electrifying force that could scan the potential in everyone he encountered.” So writes Amanda Harlech of first meeting Karl Lagerfeld in “Karl & Me” (page 142), a vivid remembrance of her trusted friend. (At left, the two share a moment at the Librairie 7L, the elegant bookshop Lagerfeld established at 7 Rue de Lille in Paris.) Harlech goes on to describe her heady early days with Lagerfeld at Chanel, where her role was to provide “an outside pair of eyes” as new collections came together; consulting at his “wild, exuberant” fittings for Fendi; and the many other ways that they shared space and exchanged ideas—over dinner in Rome, Paris, and Saint-Tropez; through…

On an unseasonably warm, sun-soaked February afternoon, Aurora James is taking a break from the whirlwind of New York Fashion Week at the Italian restaurant Gemma. In the past week she has thrown a gala for her nonprofit, attended shows by Brandon Maxwell and Rodarte, and, presently, is sitting down to discuss her memoir, Wildflower. If this all sounds like a feat of multitasking, it should come as no surprise from James. Over the last three years, aside from writing her first book, she also launched the industry-changing nonprofit Fifteen Percent Pledge—a drive to push retailers toward committing at least 15 percent (the size of America’s Black population) of their shelf space to Black-owned brands—while continuing to run her successful, CFDA-winning label of mindfully made shoes and accessories, Brother Vellies.…

Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino Karl and I met in the early ’90s at Fendi—it was like a star coming to the office. In a way, he brought the news from the world—talking to us about things like how the new beauty is ugliness. These manifestos were absolutely sharp, and delivered without any doubts. I also learned from Karl not to take anything for granted. You can work with everything. You can create with everything. I was always very impressed by Karl’s research into modernity. He was obsessed with modernity—this idea of depicting what was contemporary. He was never nostalgic. The look I created is a melting pot of his words, the modernity, and the sharpness of his look. Worn by Anok Yai on the roof of the Grand Palais. Thom Browne…

Dear Karl… “Karl took me under his wing,” writes Giorgio Armani, “with a kindness I still remember to this day.” Legendary for his notes, faxes, and congratulatory bouquets, Karl Lagerfeld was the consummate communicator. In this issue, a few fashion friends return the favor.…

As a graduate student at the Yale School of Art, Hayal Pozanti vowed that she would invent nothing less than a new visual language. She had arrived in 2009, directly from Istanbul, where she was born, and had been caught up in post-internet art—art that uses the internet as its medium. “I was feeling overwhelmed and bombarded by images and information online,” she tells me. “I made a radical decision to not get the internet installed at my house. I needed to wean myself off the computer so that I could go back to the hand and make something new.” The visual language that she developed over the next decade, called “Instant Paradise,” came from 31 invented, hieroglyphic-like characters, which correspond to numbers and letters in the English alphabet. Her…

Is it because you’re lazy?” a friend queried, only half-jokingly, when I told her I was investigating the TikTok-propelled skin care trend known as slugging. But her comment left me wondering why a slow-moving mollusk, often encountered in garden lanes after a rainfall, has suddenly become the spirit animal of contemporary skin care. Of course, we’ve all been through a lot: the pandemic, natural and climate change–related disasters, wars and the gradual erosion of democracy. Who hasn’t been feeling a little “sluggish” recently? This new mode, however, involves applying an occlusive, i.e., water-resistant, layer of a petroleum-jellylike substance to the face as the final step (after cleansing and moisturizing) in your evening skin care routine and leaving it on as you sleep. Slugging’s proponents claim that going to bed looking…

Time passes, revealing details like the receding tide. I can see Karl so clearly—the fastidious way he held his glass of Coca Light, or rippled his fingers through the air as if he were playing the piano when he “love, love, loved” a piece of music or a book I had read that he had given me. We do not change, even if age etches us differently, and the first time I met Karl feels like yesterday. It was in the mid-’90s, at one of his notorious parties thrown during Fashion Week for everyone who interested him, any rising star entering the galaxy of his vision. John Galliano had been invited along with some of his team, including me [Harlech worked with Galliano as a stylist and collaborator]. We felt…

They stopped at a metal gate flanked on both sides by a high wooden fence, a voice glitching over the intercom. Simon repeated his name twice before the gate swung open and they drove in on the pale gravel. Directly ahead, a semicircle of cars was parked in front of the main house. Alex could see a tennis court, a pool behind a smaller gate. Alex kept her face blank and mild, though she felt a jolt at the obvious nearness of the sea. She poked her tongue along her top teeth, feeling for anything errant. Simon cut the ignition. “Shall we?” The door of the main house opened and a pug came trotting toward them. A man in a black polo and black pants followed, but the pug got…

Cover Look: 40: From top to bottom, left to right: On Yai: Dress; (800) 550-0005 for information. On Hadid: blouse, skirt, and shoes; (800) 550-0005 for information. On Aoki and Akech: dresses and shoes; (800) 550-0005 for information. On Campbell: dress; fendi.com. On Jenner: tunic, blouse, skirt, and boots; (800) 550-0005 for information. On Vodianova: top, skirt, and shoes; fendi.com. On Wen: dress; (800) 550-0005 for information. On Harlow and Valletta: dresses; fendi.com. On floor: Fendi couture coat; fendi.com. Manicurist: Eri Narita. Tailor: Hailey Desjardins. Story of Her Life: 86: Manicurist: Aki Hirayama. Center of Attention: 98: Dress; givenchy.com. Sophie Buhai earrings; sophiebuhai.com. Manicurist: Merrick Fisher. Lay It On Thick: 110: Manicurist: Miki Higuchi. IN HIS IMAGE: KARL 118: On Vodianova: top, skirt, and shoes; fendi.com. On Hadid: tunic, blouse,…

Marine Serre dress When Marine Serre began a deep dive into Karl Lagerfeld’s work for Chloé to create this custom piece—which echoes a dress from the label’s spring 1977 collection and a top from fall 1973—“I discovered a lot of things I did not know,” the designer says. In particular, the work was “much more sensual than I remembered.” The result, worn here by Jill Kortleve, marries Serre’s signature lunar print with upcycled silk scarves, which are wrapped, twisted, and arranged on a black grounding fabric. “Karl was really living in the present—almost in the future,” Serre says. “And he wasn’t afraid to do the giant work of transforming [a house’s codes] into something that people want to look at again. When I’m making a collection with upcycled garments or…