Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2021 i Vogue

WE’RE ALL LOOKING FOR SERENITY, aren’t we? As the news bombards us, as our channels and social feeds fill, as the pace of life ever accelerates, the need for somewhere apart, a place—mental or physical—where everything feels slow and peaceful, has become a bit of a modern necessity. I thought as much over a recent lunch with John Galliano at his home in Gerberoy, a village in Northern France, where he and his partner and collaborator, Alexis Roche, have recently put down roots. What struck me most about his life there, with his Brussels Griffon terriers and his English garden, was how at peace he seemed. John is one of fashion’s most brilliant and restlessly creative minds, and he’s updated Maison Margiela in extraordinarily dynamic ways, yet to him, right…

‘Tis the season for totally transporting photography books, and this year’s offerings are thrilling. Annie Leibovitz gathers her most enchanting fashion imagery into Wonderland (Phaidon), while Simon Upton’s first monograph, New York Interiors (Vendome), takes us inside more terrestrial domains, chronicling the many fashionable homes he’s visited. Speaking of the fashionable: Slim Aarons: Style by Shawn Waldron and Kate Betts (Abrams) teems with photos of the chicest subjects of Aarons’s fascination. From Aperture comes a different perspective with the haunting Gregory Crewdson: Alone Street and the deeply personal Gillian Laub: Family Matters, in which both artists consider questions of space, community, and culture. Nadine Ijewere’s Our Own Selves (Prestel), meanwhile, magnifies an aesthetic vision inspired by her roots. The artist’s perspective more broadly is celebrated in Spring Cannot Be Cancelled:…

The internet runs on hyperbole, so when the tweet “J.Lo SLAYS” flashed before my eyes this past July, I took it with a grain of salt. When I inevitably clicked through to Jennifer Lopez’s birthday Instagram post, her caption—“52…what it do”—sat below selfies of the world’s most radiant middle-aged megastar posing in a string bikini on a yacht in St. Tropez. The online mob was fixated on the shot of Lopez smooching her once-and-current boyfriend, Ben Affleck. But for me, the story was her skin. Maybe it had something to do with the fact that my own birthday was two weeks away, but as I zoomed in on Lopez’s creaseless, perfectly contoured face, I became consumed by the idea that whatever J.Lo had done to fend off the ravages of…

While making the rounds of shows during New York Fashion Week in September, I decided to shake up my wardrobe: Gone were the sweatpants I’d been cocooning in for what seemed like forever, and gone was my all-black, shiva-sitting uniform of the era before that—I wanted to bloom into a butterfly, and I wanted Blumarine to be my rhinestone-embellished wings. In its tiny, faux-fur-collared yellow shrug above low-slung cargos, I was suddenly transformed into a Y2K principessa with a little slice of midriff and a whole lot of attitude, whether on my way uptown to Batsheva or riding a Citi Bike over the Williamsburg Bridge to Eckhaus Latta in Bushwick. There’s just something about Blumarine that makes a woman radiate saucy confidence. The Italian label, founded by Carpi native Anna…

When the first post-vaccine holiday season began to come into focus, I found myself craving makeup of the luxurious and theatrical variety—something to steady me as I navigated the festive closeness of a room full of laughing, dancing, sweating revelers, out of practice but elated to be back. That thing, I decided, was the over-the-top eyelashes you could see from across the venue at Marc Jacobs’s New York Public Library fall show: the thicker, the darker, the longer, the better. “People want to play and have fun,” says makeup artist Diane Kendal, who was behind the “extreme” look on Jacobs’s runway, a study in oversized proportions and code-breaking dressing. “I thought, You know what? I’m going to try these lashes on everyone. Once we started doing it on two or…

In 1995, the Italian brand Diesel created a groundbreaking advertising campaign that included, among other things, an image of two men kissing. Plenty of people sat up and took notice—not least the teenage Glenn Martens, who was living in Bruges, Belgium. “Diesel was the sexiest brand,” Martens recalls. “At high school, everybody was buying it. You could visit the Diesel store and get a catalog,” he continues, “and on the cover of one of them was that gay couple. That was quite revolutionary for me: It really helped me accept and embrace the person I am today.” Fast-forward more than two decades and Martens, 38—the creative director behind Y/Project, the Parisian label known for its rollicking elevation of streetwear and its subversive way with tailoring—has taken on another day job:…

Early in her career, in 2012, Deana Lawson made a self-portrait—the first and only one she has included in her body of work. In that image, she’s in a formfitting minidress, in a public garden, and her camera is an 8-by-10 behemoth that conceals almost half her body. Although she was in her early 30s when she took that photo, she has the air of a kid with boundless ambition: Her work had just entered MoMA’s photography collection. “I hadn’t totally arrived, but I knew that the work I was making was important in this lifetime and hopefully for lifetimes to come,” she tells me. In the years since Lawson took that photo, she has become one of our most admired contemporary photographers, producing startling compositions, usually more than four…

Table of Contents: 30: Dress and pants, us.burberry.com. Boots, jimmychoo.com. Manicurist: Laura Grieco. Cover Look: 38: Gown, +39 (02) 7788-4730 for information. Bracelets, (800) 929-DIOR for information. Ring, twistonline.com. Manicurist: Gina Eppolito. Tailor: Cha Cha Zutic. Editor’s Letter: 54: Left photo: Dress, balenciaga.com. Libertine hat, ilovelibertine.com. Fred Leighton flower brooches, fredleighton.com for information. Kentshire butterfly brooch, kentshire.com. Bottom right photo: Dress, schiaparelli.com. Contributors: 68: Top left photo: SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker shoes, sjpbysarahjessicaparker.com. Fringe Benefits: 92: Dress, davidkoma.com. Blue Period: 100: Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello earrings, ysl.com. Manicurist: Maria Rosa. Tailor: Laila Soares. CARRIED AWAY 126–127: Hat, +33 (155) 351-600 for information. Earrings, (800) 843-3269 for information. 129: Dress, alexandermcqueen.com. Top (christopherjohnrogers.com) and skirt (bergdorfgoodman.com). Necklace, hautevictoire.com. 130–131: Coat, (800) 550-0005 for information. Dress, (800) 929-DIOR for information.…

THE NORTHWEST CORNER of 28th Street and Fifth Avenue in Manhattan has hosted many ventures in its long history. Once a Gilded Age family home, it was torn down to make way for a bank featuring a separate “ladies entrance” for the discreet transactions of female clients; more recently, it’s been an office building housing everything from the International Silk Guild to the publisher of science periodicals. Soon, 250 Fifth Avenue, which has undergone a seven-year, $200 million restoration, will reopen as the brand-new 153-room Fifth Avenue Hotel. “It’s highly emotional and highly romantic,” 31-year-old owner Alex Ohebshalom says of his NoMad passion project, whose ornate interiors were updated by maximalist designer Martin Brudnizki. Suites are swathed in jewel tones and soft velvets; Murano chandeliers hang from the ceilings. A…

IN EARLY LOCKDOWN 2020, when many were toiling away with amateur handicrafts to quell pandemic anxieties, Laird Gough became convinced she needed to throw pottery. Gough and her family were primarily New York–based, but in the car on her way down to Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, she ordered a potter’s wheel. This was no fleeting distraction—in 2019, Gough, who built a career producing events for Ralph Lauren and Tory Burch, had completed a workshop with renowned ceramist Keith Kreeger, and planned to continue classes. Gough set up shop in a barn near her family’s late-18th-century clapboard farmhouse and resumed her education with YouTube tutorials. The results are striking porcelain vessels meant to complement their organic contents; a graceful lip might echo the petal of a calla lily, a wider mouth…

A rose by any other name would smell as sweet—particularly if that rose was really a pink tourmaline on a pair of dangling earrings also clustered with diamonds, yellow beryls, and morganites. That’s what the poet-jewelers at Chanel intended to do with these earrings from the new Collection N°5, the first High Jewelry collection inspired by the maison’s most beloved perfume—famously composed of jasmines, ylang-ylang, and, yes, roses.…