Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2021 i Vogue

AS THE CFDA/VOGUE FASHION FUND turns 18 this year, I’ve been struck by all the changes we’ve seen—the way the fund has evolved and how those shifts have reflected American fashion writ large. To give just one example: When the fund was launched in the aftermath of September 11, the main way to support emerging designers was to persuade retail stores to take a chance on them. Now, of course, retail is only a part of the picture, and independence is everything. Designers forge their own relationships with fans and followers and collaborators and, yes, buyers. It’s all part of building a community—that watchword for any creative pursuit in 2021. Mentorship and financial support are still crucial, and this year, instead of a competition, we gave grants to all our…

WITH HIS KAMIKAZE humor and soft spot for both 1 percenters and shlubs, Gary Shteyngart is one of our greatest living satirists. In Our Country Friends (Random House), he turns his antic gaze to the pandemic. As a deadly virus spreads, the book’s eight characters retreat to an idyllic Hudson Valley estate where they burrow themselves in an “unconscionably lovely” existence consisting of gossip, gourmet meals, and petty grievances. A mash-up of Uncle Vanya and house-share reality TV, the book bobs along as the players mull their diminishing relevance in a world whose new values are being written on the fly. Composed in what feels like real time, the novel captures the absurd side of the darkness: the aerobically skittish elbow bumps, a prestige restaurant known for its hand sanitizer.…

In 1922, Sophie Taeuber-Arp posed what now feels like an oddly prescient question: “In our complicated times, when the struggle for existence has become so difficult, I have frequently asked myself, why conceive ornaments and color combinations when there are so many more practical and especially more necessary things to do?” The artist’s response was, likewise, comfortingly apt: With moments of crisis, Taeuber-Arp argued, came the “urge to make the things we own more beautiful.” Born in Davos, Switzerland, in 1889, Taeuber-Arp was a textile artist, sculptor, dancer, painter, and marionette maker; her sprawling body of work united in a cheerily colorful abstraction. Her wonderfully varied attempts to inject even tablecloths and cabinetry with beauty and a kind of geometric whimsy constitute “Sophie Taeuber-Arp: Living Abstraction,” a sweeping survey that…

Earlier this summer, the public got its first look at Lady Gaga as the infamous Patrizia Reggiani in the haute tragedy House of Gucci (out later this month) when the studio tweeted a still that featured the star with her lips glazed in frosty burgundy and her hair dyed as dark as shoe polish and fluffed like soufflé. Gaga wore a mink coat and, beneath it, a leather-trimmed tunic in Gucci’s iconic canvas monogram. In short, she appeared every bit the Mrs. Gucci that Reggiani herself had plotted and schemed to be—before she hired a hit man in 1995 to shoot her husband, Maurizio Gucci (played by Adam Driver), scion of the Gucci fortune. (Asked once by a reporter why she didn’t do the job herself, Reggiani responded: “My eyesight…

ON MY WAY TO HEART & HUSTLE, a private gym in West Hollywood, where I will be joining Adele for her Monday morning workout, I get the distinct feeling that the Queen of Hearts is about to put me through my paces. It’s inevitable to some degree. Adele has been doing rigorous weight-lifting and circuit-training sessions every day—twice a day if her anxiety is running high—for three years and counting. It is also true that if, say, the whole world went nuts at the first sight of your significant weight loss, and aired a lot of uninformed theories and loud opinions about your significant weight loss, one way to set the record straight and reclaim the narrative would be to put a journalist to absolute shame at your gym. When…

On the 86th floor of the Empire State Building, looking down at the battered but insanely beautiful city glittering below and waiting for the LaQuan Smith show to begin, even the most jaded fashion professional couldn’t deny it: After 19 months of truncated Fashion Weeks, virtual presentations, and Zoom calls, it felt like a miracle to be back seeing runway shows in New York for the first time since February 2020—a lifetime ago. This sense of relief, of unbridled joy, was even more powerfully felt by this year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists—10 brilliant fashion labels that have weathered these wildly challenging times and were now showing off their collections to live audiences. They run the gamut from Batsheva’s tongue-in-cheek ruffles to Eckhaus Latta’s avant-garde musings, from Theophilio’s riotous palette and…

Bucket hats are back, but then again: You knew that already. They’ve been back—especially Prada’s chic nylon and Re-Nylon (the maison’s recycled-nylon textile) buckets, which can be traced to the label’s 1992 collections. We have not, however, seen a Prada hat quite like this one. Embellished with more than 5,000 chrome-colored rhinestones, it casts off as much twinkle as a disco ball, giving your fall look an effortless glow-up.…

EARLIER THIS YEAR, I took an afternoon walk with my grandmother in Yongin, just south of Seoul, winding our way toward a stream called Tancheon. It was a warm mid-winter day, and we linked arms. I hadn’t seen her in several years since phasing out my childhood visits to Korea. She didn’t look much older than I remembered, but she moved a bit more slowly, a bit stiffer at the knees. We watched children ride past on blue and yellow bicycles, and I thought of the summers I once spent in Seoul, running along the Han River, my grandparents following close behind. Stopping to rest on a wooden park bench, she posed a question she had asked me before, when I was a teenager: Did I want to get my…

“I don’t feel well,” I told my partner earlier this year, repeating a refrain that has become as commonplace in our house as “please pick up your socks.” I didn’t know exactly what was wrong, but I just didn’t feel right: brain fog, low energy, even lower motivation. And then there were the unpredictable breakouts and off-calendar periods. A friend suggested I get a comprehensive hormone panel (a blood test that checks your estrogen, progesterone, and testosterone levels, among other things), which is traditionally prescribed by a doctor and requires a visit to a laboratory. “The results were so helpful for me,” she insisted, sending me down a Google search rabbit hole. I couldn’t find an appointment scenario that eased my concerns about venturing back into a clinical environment during…

Olivier Rousteing is sitting in a makeshift greenroom, talking with a group of business founders trying to reimagine the future of France. “There have been so many projects on my waiting list, and now finally we can make them happen,” he says, eyes wide. He is dressed, as usual, in black: black coat, black trousers, and, on his feet, clogs like black lapdogs, covered with faux fur. His fingers are shielded in long golden rings, giving his hands a mechanical fascination: half bling, half armor. When an attendant leads him to the stage wing, he leans against the wall and scrolls through Instagram. Rousteing became creative director of Balmain in 2011, at 25, and since then has consolidated the house’s power by courting the gaze of an extremely online demographic.…

When I awoke in Buckingham Palace, it was as if I were still in a dream. I turned my head to the tall, narrow windows, where sunlight was just beginning to peek through the gray clouds. I had drawn open the heavy drapes the night before so that I would rise with the first light and see the view of the Queen Victoria Memorial and gardens. It was early, but the fatigue I had been experiencing over the last few weeks felt like a distant memory. I pulled the sheets down to stare at my belly. My long, fitted gown for the evening’s white-tie dinner hung on the bathroom door, and I hoped I would be able to get the zipper all the way up. At the foot of the…

Table of Contents: 18: Earrings and necklace, khiry.com. Cover Look: 18: Dress, +33 (155) 351-600 for information. Earrings, (800) CARTIER for information. Editor’s Letter: 24: Top right photo: Dress, batsheva.com. Salvatore Ferragamo silk foulard, ferragamo.com. Top left photo: Shirt, ralphlauren.com. All Over the Map: 34: Bottom left photo: Illesteva sunglasses, illesteva.com. 38: Bag, markcross.com. THE OTHER SIDE 69: Blazer, gucci.com. Shirt, ralphlauren.com. 70–71: Dress, balenciaga.com for information. Earrings, jenniferfisherjewelry.com. 74: Blazer, gucci.com. Shirt, ralphlauren.com. Watch, Cartier boutiques. 75: Shirt, ralphlauren.com. Pants, Dior boutiques. Cartier earring, (800) CARTIER for information. W.Kleinberg belt, wkleinberg.com. 76: Shirt and pants, nkimode.com. Earrings, (800) CARTIER for information. 78–79: Dress, +33 (155) 351-600 for information. BIENVENUE! 86–87: Shoes, Dior boutiques. Bag and luggage, Louis Vuitton select boutiques. 88: Boots, gucci.com. 89: Shoes, Dior boutiques. 90–91: Bags,…

A TENTATIVE SMILE spreads across Eddie Redmayne’s face. “Anxiety is something that drives me,” he says quietly. “It has for a long time. Ultimately, I think, you only live once. If it’s a catastrophe, I got to play a part that always felt unfinished in me. If I don’t do it, then perhaps I will just live with regret.” We are sitting in the gilded splendor of Fischer’s, a restaurant specializing in Austrian food in the Marylebone area of London, discussing Redmayne’s bold decision to return to the stage as the charismatic and mysterious Emcee in Cabaret. (Redmayne was last seen onstage 10 years ago, as Shakespeare’s Richard II; before that he starred in Red, as the fictional assistant of Mark Rothko, winning a Tony.) He’s chosen the restaurant because…