Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2021 i Vogue

HOW SHOULD WE FEEL, at this moment, about the great outdoors? The climate news is frightening (and demands a courageous response from our political leaders), as is the extreme weather around the world—the tragic fires and floods and storms and drought that we are seeing far too much of. And yet there’s a poignance to this uneasy-making time: Our attachment to nature has only grown through COVID. We are more protective than ever of our fragile planet, and (hopefully) more respectful of it too. Fashion certainly has the outdoors on its mind. The collections were full of parkas, puffers, sturdy knits, boots, and other technically minded looks that suggested we throw open the doors and spend a season in the trees, in the snow, under the sun, and by the…

Want to test your relationship with your mother? Design and build a house with her. “It was the most polite and understanding we’ve been to each other—ever,” confides Edie Campbell, slouched in a stripy deck chair on the balcony of the Northamptonshire homestead she recently constructed with her mum, Sophie Hicks. “In the past we’ve had a slightly fractious relationship. You’re always ruder to your mother than you are to your friends. But suddenly we were in this professional situation, and we were quite agreeable to each other.” It helps that the 30-year-old English model—an art history graduate who has fronted campaigns for Fendi and Versace, and is a regular presence in the pages of Vogue—has a sophisticated understanding of contemporary architecture. And that 60-year-old Hicks is a former British…

JONATHAN FRANZEN’S PLEASURE BOMB of a novel Crossroads (FSG) takes place in New Prospect, an Illinois suburb that could be a Norman Rockwell backdrop were it not for the rumblings of the women’s liberation movement and the war in Vietnam. It’s 1971 and the Hildebrandt family lives in a drafty house that the local church provided to patriarch Russ, a God-fearing and self-loathing associate minister who has not only fallen for a pixie-like widow but blames his desires on his wife, Marion. They have four children: young Judson; Becky, the golden-girl cheerleader who isn’t half as boring as she might seem; college-age Clem, tormented by guilt over the inequitable draft and his lust for a worldly older student; and Perry, whose extraordinary mental wiring leads to the manic episode that…

When Alexandre Arnault moved to NewYorkCity in January 2021, it was a different metropolis from the one he’d grown up visiting. The city, of course, was in the throes of the winter surge of the pandemic—muted streets, shuttered theaters. But the emptiness gave the 29-year-old LVMH scion a chance to see the urban landscape anew—and to absorb a little on-the-ground inspiration, which he promptly funneled into his new role as executive vicepresident of product and communications at Tiffany & Co. (LVMH had bought Tiffany that same month.) It was an essential reeducation. “If you were to ask anyone in the world to name three New York brands,” he says, “probably the first one that comes to mind would be Tiffany.” The label’s new Knot collection, which launches this month, does…

CAMILLE COTTIN HURRIES into the café, crunching on a nibbleddown apple core. It’s early summer in Paris: windy, wet. Cottin shakes off her umbrella, takes one last bite of the apple, and, flying breakfast finished, orders a double espresso at the bar before settling in at a window table. The Art Deco façade of the Folies Bergère glints behind her, infusing the clattering breakfast hour with a reminder of the intimate, tangled world of the French entertainment industry, against which Call My Agent!—the Netflix comedy-drama in which Cottin stars as the truehearted talent agent Andréa Martel—is set. Cottin, a lifelong theater rat, lives in the neighborhood. She was up late the night before, watching France fall to Switzerland on penalty kicks in the Euro championship. “It’s just crazy,” she says,…

GROWING UP, the model Quannah Chasinghorse—whose Indigenous ancestry is both Hän Gwich’in (from Alaska and Canada) and Oglala Lakota (from South Dakota)—rarely saw her culture represented in the fashion she voraciously consumed. “I was obsessed with watching runway shows on television—Dior, Chanel, Prada—and I was always posing for pictures,” she says, but because of this lack of representation, “it was really hard for me to feel like I had the potential to be a model.” Fast-forward a few years, though, and Chasinghorse, 19 and now living in and working from Fairbanks, Alaska, is one of modeling’s freshest new faces after first being cast in a 2020 Calvin Klein campaign that stressed the importance of voting. A few months later, she signed with IMG Models, and it’s about time. Chasinghorse is…

The day after I gave birth to twins, a lactation consultant came to my hospital room to see how the babies were feeding. My mother was holding one baby, while I breastfed the other. The consultant tried to teach me how to feed both of them at the same time. Then she looked at me curiously. “Your eye looks droopy,” she said. Taken aback, I tried a joke, “Yes, my eyes are a little droopy,” I acknowledged. “I’m Irish.” “That’s not what I mean,” she said, kind but firm. “Go look in the mirror.” The left half of my face had fallen down. Eyebrow, fallen; eyelid, fallen; lip fallen, frozen, immovable. A stroke? I was astonished—my face hadn’t felt any different before I looked in the mirror. I tried to…

Is there any makeup more ephemeral than blush, or whose promise, through the ages, has proved more alluring? “They wish to find the springtime of their earliest years hiding in a pot of rouge,” an 18th-century social critic observed of the ladies at the court of Versailles, whose vermilion cheeks, floridly blooming in artificially snow-white complexions, signaled their allegiance to the aristocracy. These days, after years of heavy-handed “shake and bake” contouring, fashion is embracing the freshness of blush anew. But this is not your grandmother’s rouge. On the Chanel cruise runway, makeup artist Lucia Pica draped intense pink tints from models’ cheekbones all the way up across their temples. The look was “punky, almost rebellious,” Pica tells me, “tough and soft at the same time,” and a tribute to…

If any shoe designer has a Midas touch, it’s Manolo Blahnik. Since he started out in 1971, he’s set a gold standard—and he’s now marking his 50-year career with a golden collection that riffs on his classic silhouettes, from boots with tiers of fringe to feathered metallic mules, pumps of handwoven macramé, and four pairs with bells on (inspired by a bracelet Blahnik’s mother wore, with four bells representing the members of their family). We asked a few of his friends about the power of Manolos—and Manolo. ANJELICA HUSTON, Actor I was in the South of France in 1974 doing pictures for British Vogue when Manolo and I met for the first time. I remember him telling me that one of his favorite scenes in the movies involved Marilyn Monroe…