Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2021 i Vogue

THERE’S NO WAY TO OVERSTATE what an astonishing moment in history we’re living through. The country, severely tested as I write this in January, is set to remake itself under a new administration. The losses wrought by this pandemic have been profound. Our lives have been upended and transformed. Everywhere you look, old ways of doing things are being discarded and new ways are taking hold. This is true at Vogue, of course: Change is everywhere. And to be honest, I welcome much of how we’ve had to adapt and evolve. A love of change, in fact, led me to fashion journalism in the first place. And I feel strongly that so much of what is happening now, especially in fashion, is long overdue In this issue, which pays tribute…

Conley Averett—the independent, New York–based designer behind the label Judy Turner—leaned way, way into the concept of working from home during months of isolation. What started with dyeing his yarns in his bathtub led him, in short order, to renting an additional unit in his building as a studio to create the pieces for his spring 2021 season, which he’s showing off via video chat. There are classic pullovers, sure, but also a cushy balaclava, cashmere-silk-wool-blended sweatpants, crocheted trousers, and a slinky knit tank with deep-cut armholes for both men and women. There’s also a custom green-and-charcoal knit zip-up made from leftover yarns that he found in his apartment during lockdown. “Our target is to use everything we have,” says Averett, 30. In perfect Judy Turner form, the piece composed…

At seven o’ clock on a recent evening, I dim the bedroom lights, call out a reminder to my boyfriend to rouse me in an hour with a gentle tap, and close the door. “Have a great trip,” I hear him say from the living room as the two ketamine tablets I’ve pressed into the pockets of my cheeks dissolve, leaving a bitter residue. Minutes later, I’m flying over water that reflects a sourceless golden light. Am I the light? The thought triggers a sensation of being stretched like taffy in all directions. It’s not my body being stretched—I don’t have a body anymore—but the immaterial me moving in tune with the ambient music in my headphones. I stretch and spread until at last I’ve dissolved—pixelated—at which point a small…

Stella came off the train from Scotland smelling of goats,” Isabella Blow remembered back in 2001. Stella Tennant had been scouted for British Vogue’s “London Girls” story, to be shot by Steven Meisel in the summer of 1993. The portfolio was being orchestrated by Blow and stylist Joe McKenna, and they were searching for striking bluebloods. The young writer Plum Sykes had also been enlisted in the hunt and remembers the “tiny little passport photo” of Stella with her septum ring. “She was remarkable-looking—just this really cool, beautiful country turnip,” Sykes said to me when we spoke just after Stella’s death. “Her beauty was in her eyes,” Blow told me. “She was absolutely wild.” Meisel was so smitten with Stella’s achingly cool style that he asked her if she would…

I was killing time outside a fashion show a few years ago when I noticed a woman in the distance wearing a beautiful deep-blue coat decorated with a flourish of fuchsia sequins. I know that coat, I suddenly realized—Dries Van Noten! I had tried it on at Bergdorf’s a couple of seasons back, and part of me loved it, but the other part of me thought it was maybe too flashy, the tiniest bit Honeymoon in Vegas—and it was $2,000. Still, as so often happens, now that I saw it on someone else, it seemed like the most desirable garment in the world. Until recently, it would have been near impossible to turn up this elusive item—if only I had bought it when I had the chance! Not anymore. Some…

The year 2020 began badly for Sarah Cooper—in fact, it threatened to end her career. “I was just feeling like it wasn’t really happening,” Cooper confesses one winter afternoon over Zoom from her WeWork office in Brooklyn. After studying economics and design, she’d spent much of her 30s working in user experience at Google. In 2014, a humorous blog post she wrote, “10 Tricks to Appear Smart in Meetings,” had gone viral, and Cooper quit her job to write and perform comedy full-time. A contract for a book followed six months later. Over six years she did stand-up in New York, released two more humor books, and wrote a pilot that was not produced. Her work had a respectable audience—she had assembled some 50,000 Twitter followers—but not a huge one,…

Equipping the stylish for their travels to and fro is what Louis Vuitton does best (think their icon-making travel trunks). So it makes sense that one of Virgil Abloh’s latest creations can actually help one get from point A to B—with an ollie or a kickflip on the way, if you’re up to snuff. Despite the streetwise painterly splotches, it’s a high-fashion piece so high that it would be a shame not to catch some air on it.…

Sarah Cain, a 41-year-old Los Angeles–based artist whose wildly colorful paintings dominate huge spaces, is about to take over the National Gallery of Art’s soaring East Building Atrium. One of the most heavily visited spaces in the nation’s capital, the building has been closed for several months due to the pandemic but also to allow for a major renovation. The great hanging Calder was removed; the sculptures by Richard Serra, Isamu Noguchi, and Max Ernst stayed put but were enclosed in protective boxes the size of mobile homes. “It’s going to be so deadly in there,” Molly Donovan, the NGA’s contemporary-art curator, remembers thinking when the process began. “No art, just gray construction walls. What can we do?” Her solution: Get artists to transform the atrium while the work goes…

Italians like to wear jewelry,” trills Giovanna Engelbert, the stylist and sultana of street style (remember that?). “It’s in our DNA—we’re not afraid of mixing bizarre things together and putting a lot on—but craftsmanship speaks more to me than carats.” The Milan-born former model and L’Uomo Vogue, Vogue Japan, and W alumna is now the creative director of Swarovski—the first appointment of its kind in the house’s legendary 125 years in business—and it’s a deft hire: Engelbert’s vibrantly colorful self-curation aligns nicely with our current moment, and her positivity sparkles at a time when we all need a little illumination. “With crystal, you can play,” she says. “You can just have more fun, more…everything!” When she was appointed, in May, she felt she had “won this Willy Wonka ticket,” she…

Table of contents: 54: Top (price upon request), skirt (price upon request), and sneakers ($750); loewe.com. Manicure, Wendy Wen. 66: Jacket ($2,300) and pants ($1,450); ferragamo.com. Tailor, Hailey Desjardins. Cover look: 66: Coat, $6,900; prada.com. Editor’s letter: 78: On Geng: Dress ($2,085) and sandals ($960); driesvannoten.com. On Brennan: Dress ($598) and sneakers ($98); ralphlauren.com. On Hadid: Jacket, $1,495; bloomingdales.com. 118: Clockwise from top: Necklace ($679, available fall 2021), earring ($189 for pair), cuff ($429), earrings ($169), ring ($379), earrings ($299), and ring ($299). GIGI IN WONDERLAND 138–139: Hat, $350; harlemsheaven.com. Bodysuit, $2,490; ysl.com. Earrings, price upon request; tiffany.com. 141: Jacket ($3,890) and dress ($14,500); alexandermcqueen.com. 142: Top, $890; proenzaschouler.com. Skirt, $1,490; marni.com. Sandals, price upon request; jwanderson.com. 143: Cape (price upon request), top ($1,500), pants ($3,000), and belts ($2,125–$2,850); all…