Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2016 i Vogue

This past summer, as people all over the world watched the extraordinary sprinters in Rio, another kind of sprint was taking place in an atelier in Paris: The designer Olivier Theyskens was sitting in front of the TV in his Marais studio, watching the Olympics and embroidering the fierce florals that would later enhance a trio of extraordinary evening frocks in his fall show. The magnificent ball dresses were the smashing finale of Theyskens’s latest endeavor, a collection presented under his own name for the first time since his earliest days in the industry. If the timing seems fortuitous, maybe it’s because at the present moment, when the noisy fashion system is swirling with different theories about the best way to market clothes, there is a craving for the kind…

Not only do Paul Andrew and Brett Heyman make a great pair of friends, but they’ve got a new collaboration quite literally afoot this season. Since meeting in 2003 at Gucci (where Heyman was working as director of public relations alongside Andrew’s boyfriend), the two designers have established their own distinctive brands, run the gantlet of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and garnered rosters of It-girl followers. Now—from their Connecticut weekend homes just minutes apart—the duo has joined forces on a line of footwear that Andrew says “could stop a crowded party in its tracks.” The collection is a seamless combination of their sensibilities: Silhouettes toe the line between sporty and sensual, practical and playful, complete with the cheekily decorative acrylic for which Heyman’s Edie Parker is known. The seven leather…

A bonus of being a part-time It girl in my 20s—part time (a) because I am not very good at staying up late and (b) because I was devoted to my Vogue job—was that trendy photographers occasionally asked to take my picture. A favorite shoot was when Bobbi Brown did my face, and I fell for the American ideal of beauty, “makeup that looks like you’re not wearing makeup,” as Bobbi put it. I have been a fan of the New York mogul’s eye shadows and foundations ever since. So you can imagine my excitement when I heard that Bobbi was adding Remedies—highly potent topical skin “ferments”— to her line of skin care. Apparently these five elixirs would contain foods like Brussels sprouts, kale, and spinach to nourish your complexion.…

Like a scene out of The Endless Summer, a lithe-limbed, shaghaired crew piled into a van and set off to catch the next wave. But on this mid-September afternoon, the crew comprised eighteen willowy models, and the wave was a hyperspecific pitch of Southern California blonde doled out by colorist Victoria Hunter and orchestrated by Alexander Wang. The designer’s spring 2017 inspiration photos were taped up inside Hunter’s Whittemore House salon in New York—a collage of bronzed, bleached, sun-sprayed surfers that looked like a teenage girl’s bedroom wall, circa 1987. “The whole thing was like a party,” the model Katie Moore recalls of the casting-turned-carpooling adventure that culminated at the West Village studio, where just last season Hunter memorably reinvented the nineteenyear-old Texas native as a radioactive redhead. It ignited…

Treachery, jealousy, and a murder-suicide may not say “holiday spirit,” but theater lovers will feel aglow at the thought of New York Theatre Workshop’s all-star production of Othello, starring David Oyelowo as the Moorish general and Daniel Craig as Iago. Or try Othello: The Remix, a hip-hop retelling of the tragedy at the Westside Theatre. The Wizard of Oz gets a remix of its own in the Builders Association’s Elements of Oz, with a mash-up of film, live performance, and smartphone technology. The beloved movie Dead Poets Society comes to the Classic Stage Company under the helm of John Doyle, with Jason Sudeikis stepping in as the teacher at an all-boys prep school. The 2007 film The Band’s Visit, about an Egyptian police orchestra stranded in an Israeli desert town,…

Fans of Game of Thrones won’t want to miss the events that inspired it in PBS’s The Hollow Crown: The Wars of the Roses, the second season of the BBC’s excellent adaptation of Shakespeare’s history plays. King Henry VI (Tom Sturridge) is a pious young man who’s maneuvered by the duplicitous Somerset (Ben Miles) into dumping his most loyal adviser, Gloucester (Hugh Bonneville). This opens the door to one of the all-time-great villains, hunchbacked Richard III, whose malevolent theatricality—he often addresses the audience like House of Cards’s Frank Underwood—is captured with brio by Benedict Cumberbatch. Sophie Okonedo plays Henry VI’s sexy, manipulative French wife, Queen Margaret, with such passionate skill you can almost believe that the Wars of the Roses were all about her. The likable side of this English…

We see how history gets made in Jackie, Chilean director Pablo Larraín’s taut and daringly cool new film about Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, starring Natalie Portman. Centering on the days around JFK’s 1963 assassination in Dallas, the story hopscotches between the First Lady reeling with grief in her famous pink suit, micromanaging the funeral procession for maximum impact, and granting an interview to a journalist (Billy Crudup) willing to hide what Jackie wants hidden. In her best work since Black Swan, Portman gives us a complex woman whose breathy public persona belies her steely resolve in creating the myth of Camelot. History is at work more quietly in 20th Century Women, Mike Mills’s funny, humane film set in a 1979 Santa Barbara bathed in the afterglow of free love and women’s…

It is the beginning of September, and the calm in the Dior design studio on Paris’s Avenue Montaigne is almost preternatural. This is especially surprising considering that the new collection is due to be shown in less than a month and that Maria Grazia Chiuri, the house’s new peroxide-blonde, panda-eyed artistic director, arrived only in mid-July. Ten days later, Europe closed up shop for the summer holidays. Chiuri’s debut collection was designed in two weeks, but even with the demands of fabric research, fittings, and castings—not to mention setting the tone for a brave new vision at the house—she has firmly resisted chief executive Sidney Toledano’s suggestion to postpone showing until November. To speed up the process—and to Toledano’s evident stupefaction—Chiuri also insisted on traveling herself to the factories in…

If I let myself be a little corny for once, I’d admit that I have a Christmas fantasy. I would like my nineyear-old son to sit next to my 83-year-old father at midnight Mass this Christmas Eve in New York as my dad theatrically belts out “Adeste Fideles.” My son has made it clear he’s not interested in another sunny Los Angeles celebration with our it’s-all-good neighbors; Christmas casual, you might call it. He wants the East Coast, his rambunctious cousins, massive amounts of snow, holiday airport drama, the works. I want him to experience one of the few family traditions we have left, the solemn and the cheeky, Our Father and my father. And as the two of them sang, my dad and I would start speaking again and…

A typical painting by Genieve Figgis manages to be both delicate and dramatic, both lyrical and macabre. It’s a particular tension befitting Roméo et Juliette, Charles Gounod’s retelling of Shakespeare arriving at the Metropolitan Opera on New Year’s Eve. Earlier in the month, Gallery Met will debut a suite of Figgis’s figurative acrylics—all fluid swirls, crackling fissures, and blurred lines—inspired by the tragedy of star-crossed lovers. “I used the fifteenth century as my springboard,” the 44-year-old Dubliner says. “But the show just evolved on its own.” Figgis has strayed from the libretto—Shakespeare never put the couple on horseback, or ascending into heaven— but did her research in Verona, the Montague and Capulet hometown. “I went alone to see Puccini’s Turandot in the Roman arena,” Figgis remembers of seeing her first…

Mario Testino’s latest coffee-table tome, Sir (Taschen), is a study in moments—well, moments and, as the title suggests, men. “I wanted to show how lucky we are now,” says Testino. “Growing up, we were expected to fit into the limits established for what was considered a man. Today, anything goes.” To that end, nudes commingle with fashion, which shares pages with famous friends and well-dressed dandies. “I don’t have a favorite image,” he claims, “but I have a soft spot for Bowie.”…

Last year, Oregon became the fourth state to legalize the recreational use of marijuana. In my hometown of Portland, people began lighting up on street corners, friends threw pot-themed dinner parties, and I heard whispers about a chef who hand-delivers salted caramel medibles (medical-cannabis edibles). Whenever my husband, an unapologetic marijuana enthusiast, invites me to join him, I decline. Past experiments always gave me a sense of creeping agitation rather than euphoria. I struggle with insomnia, however, and my cocktail of remedies—valerian, wine, and Ambien—has become less and less reliable. Which is how I find myself one recent afternoon at Farma, a dispensary a mile from my house, admiring buds with names like Island Sweet Skunk and Dogwalker that are displayed beneath glass like so many exquisite chocolates. “I’m looking…

LAUREN DUHAMEL Since her arrival in February at ModelFIT, New York’s most au courant fitness venue, Duhamel’s classes have quickly become the last word in the boutique’s groupworkout experience. Her sessions help carve sexy, lean legs through muscle isolation and tools such as the slant board and ankle weights. Superstar model of the moment Taylor Hill enthuses, “Lauren helps me work as hard as I can to build strength.” modelfit.com JASON WALSH Rise Nation, the buzziest workout in Los Angeles, is also one of the most efficient. In 30-minute-long classes, everyone scales a VersaClimber, which mimics a strenuous run (or walk) up to 6,000 feet. “Legs get really strong, but because you’re burning so many calories, they get leaner, too,” says founder and instructor Walsh, whose devout following includes Emma…

I started dyeing my hair in grade school. Going blonde was considered naughty at that time, which was very exciting to a young girl like me. I colored it all through my teenage years in New Jersey, but my hair was brown again when I moved to New York at nineteen or 20— though not for long. I was working in a small salon where we were always doing crazy stuff to our heads, and my friend said, “We should bleach your hair!” It was a good period for experimentation. A lot of the girls downtown were breaking away from what was considered commercial; what we did was recycle a mod-sixties look with more of a ripped-up, tough, street feel. As I walked around the city, people would yell “Blondie!”…

Childhood is a time of wild obsessions—Harry Potter, baseball— but Lucas Hedges, the star of Manchester by the Sea, had an unusual one: memorizing the vital stats of child stars. “My first love was IMDb,” he explains at a café in Brooklyn Heights, where he grew up. “You could ask me, ‘What’s Dakota Fanning’s birthday?’ ” He grins. “And I could literally tell you.” Hedges comes from a movie family (his father, Peter, is the writer-director of Pieces of April and Dan in Real Life; his mother is the actress and poet Susan Bruce), but it was talent, not connections, that got him his big break. Cast as Smike in a seventh-grade production of Nicholas Nickleby, Hedges burst into tears onstage just as a casting director was passing through. He…

Northern Europeans are serious about their Christmas cookies. Almost every country has its own, made only during the holidays, and a household will spend days shopping, baking, and decorating—a seasonal undertaking as important as turning over the garden in the spring or closing up the house for summer vacation. Take, for example, basler leckerli, a spiced cookie with candied citrus, which is a classic part of Christmas in Germany. It needs to be baked several weeks ahead of time and then left to sit and soften—you make it in November to eat in December. A friend of mine from close to Weimar who still uses her grandmother’s recipe from the 1930s puts hers in a deep earthenware crock with a slice of apple and covers them with a wooden board,…

In early 2015, Sasha Lane was reveling in a quintessentially American spring break in Panama City, Florida, when the English filmmaker Andrea Arnold plucked her off a beach and out of obscurity with a simple question: Did Lane—then a nineteen-year-old freshman at Texas State University with zero acting credentials— want to star in the Oscarwinning director’s fourth feature, American Honey? Sure, why not? The movie opens with Lane’s character, Star, dumpster-diving for her next meal, and in short order we’re following her on a reckless road trip through the heartland. The film is raw and vividly atmospheric—think Harmony Korine’s Kids for the Snapchat generation—and benefits immensely from the honesty of Lane’s inexperience. When American Honey won the Cannes Film Festival Jury Prize this past May, Lane—the Texas-born daughter of a…

Take a deep breath: The corset has returned, along with its equally coquettish friend the waspie belt. For me, both so easily blur the line between ladylike and lady of the night that I’ve always reserved them for low lighting and fancy-dress parties—a floral leather Alexander McQueen corset over a Titania-esque ruffled dress for dancing around the Atlas Fountain at Castle Howard on an early-September evening, say, or the restrictive cinch of a historic gown at a Les Liaisons Dangereuses party in Rome’s Palazzo Taverna. Though the last time we saw the corset so out and about was in the supermodel heyday, the 2016 corsets seem to be less of a symbol of female confinement and more of a coup de maître styling trick to dial up contrast and intrigue…

A s a food editor in New York, I think about restaurant lighting. A lot. But always in terms of the mood it sets and whether I can read the menu, not necessarily how it makes me look. It turns out that those newly trendy Perriand sconces with their candelabra bulbs that I covet at Dimes café in Chinatown aren’t doing my skin any favors, as I learned on a recent Thursday evening when my pocket mirror revealed an ashen complexion. And as much as I’d love to be illuminated by candlelight at Daniel Rose’s Le Coucou every night, I’d fill an entire banquette after a month. Japanese geishas felt a similar panic around the turn of the last century, when electric lights replaced the warmth of gas lamps in…

What do deposed Ugandan dictator Idi Amin and Italian Renaissance painter Sofonisba Anguissola have in common? They’ve both appeared in series by the British artist Annie Kevans, whose delicately painted oil-onpaper likenesses—of U.S. presidential mistresses dating back to Colonial times, say—upend our assumptions about portraiture while bringing alternative visions of the past to life. “History repeating itself is quite a big theme in my work,” says Kevans, who was raised in France and lived in Mexico before attending London’s Central Saint Martins school. While a student, she began “Boys”—30 small paintings of political tyrants in their youth, juxtaposing evil with childhood innocence. (Charles Saatchi bought the whole lot.) “The History of Art,” at New York’s Danziger Gallery, features women artists renowned in their day whose works have since languished in…

“The decor speaks the language of the local environment,” says Samuel Leizorek of Las Alcobas, Napa Valley’s newest resort, set in verdant wine country in walking distance of downtown St. Helena. In addition to refurbishing the main building (a 1905 Georgian Revival farmhouse), the hotel added a barn for events, a full-service spa, and more guest rooms. Yabu Pushelberg’s design team kept the interiors simply chic with greige upholstery, natural wood finishes, and floor-to-ceiling windows. After a day of hiking, biking, and exploring local wineries, take in the view from your private terrace, enjoy a customized aromatherapy massage, or dine at chef Chris Cosentino’s Acacia House, where seasonal produce is sourced from an on-site potager. A quaint overpass connects the property to Beringer Vineyards—the area’s oldest—and doubles as a private…

As I live-streamed Hood By Air’s spring show in my Brooklyn apartment back in September, I found myself frozen in astonishment by the time the third or fourth look hit the runway. It wasn’t Shayne Oliver’s gleefully subversive Hustler-logo polo shirts that caused me to gape, nor was it his mutant double-facing cowboy boots. What sent me to a paralytic place was the substance that was slathered on models’ heads and that dripped onto their foreheads. The years spun away. Suddenly I was transported to the eighties—to my teenage bathroom in New Jersey, where I regularly preened for suburban basement parties with a hefty bottle of candy-colored L.A. Looks in hand. How else could I maintain my signature towering coif, which would have humbled a courtier at Versailles? Standing in…

This mesmerizing, almost hypnotically alluring bag is positively demanding to make an appearance at any one of a thousand holiday parties. Decadent without being too outré, overstuffed but not quite over-the-top, it’s definitively, glitteringly an heirloom-to-be. Hand-beaded and embroidered with a Japanese garden– inspired motif, this Technicolor clutch takes the best of Fendi—which, of late, has been elevating leather goods to garish and girlish heights—and consolidates it into one ultra-unique, eye-catching piece.…