Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2020 i Vogue

THE CONVERSATIONS BEGAN MONTHS AGO, and they included every global Vogue editor in chief. How should we engage with our turbulent moment? As we look toward our fall issues, what sort of statement should we make? It quickly became clear that what we all longed for—from Britain to Russia, from Mexico to Australia—was optimism, a statement of positivity, even joy. And so all of the editors decided on a common theme: hope. This month every Vogue expresses that idea on our covers, in our pages, and across all of our platforms. There is no uniform notion of what hope means, of course—it can be represented by a glorious sunrise in Hong Kong (see above) or a portrait of an infectious-disease expert in Germany, just two of the international contributions that…

Red is my favorite color,” Rosalía says. “It always reminds me of flamenco.” Born and raised in Sant Esteve Sesrovires, a Catalonian town inland from Barcelona, the singer began studying the art form when she was 16. “When I was a teen,” she continues, “I would draw a really, really long line around my eyes with eyeliner, like Lola Flores”—the Andalusian flamenco performer who appeared in some 40 films. “Lola always had on her gold, had on her eyeliner.” The 26-year-old Rosalía grows animated as she lists her aesthetic touchstones. “Carmen Amaya,” she says, “had a very masculine look; she always had really strong, delineated eyebrows; her lips were always painted. And at a time when the bailaoras always wore dresses, she wore pants.” The appeal of this juxtaposition makes…

Face it: We are living in what, to put it mildly, might be described as interesting times. But there are still certain inevitable developments that bring optimism and a sense of joy—a crispness in the air; that first afternoon when you notice leaves turning from green to gold. When the seasons change, we may actually find ourselves thinking about fashion—even if we are looking at the fall collections with a very different eye. Six months after these clothes first came down runways, though the world is in a place none of us could have imagined, we still want clothes that have the power to do what the best fashion has always done: elevate our spirits, comfort us, and make us feel good about ourselves (even if we have to wear…

VOGUE COVERS TALK TO US about who we are and the world we live in. This year, as our world has been turned upside down by the plagues of coronavirus, racist violence, and presidential incompetence, we invited two Black artists, Kerry James Marshall and Jordan Casteel, to make paintings for our September covers. Artists have created Vogue covers before, on rare occasions—Salvador Dalí, Marie Laurencin, Giorgio de Chirico, and John Currin, who painted Jennifer Lawrence for the September 2017 issue. What’s different this time is that Marshall and Casteel were given complete freedom to decide who would be on their cover and how that person would be portrayed. The only requirement was that they choose a dress by a Vogue-curated designer for their subject to wear. Marshall, 64, whose 2016…

Maybe surprisingly, I’ve never been more hopeful than I am right now. You know, most of history happens very slowly, but then there are these times when you hit an air pocket and—wham—things change in a hurry. I think that’s happening right now with racial equity. I think you have to look back 60 years to find an equivalent. You have to look back to the late John Lewis marching across the Edmund Pettus Bridge. Or fast-forward a few years, and you have Stonewall. Both of these were key moments that kicked off a sudden change—for African Americans and for the LGBTQ community. And I think this is an exciting and hopeful time because as a nation we have struggled with racial equity for our whole existence—and it feels good…

It’s taken me weeks to sit down and try to explain these watercolors. But weeks I have, time aplenty. These are selected from a group of modest-size drawings, each one containing a kernel of my emotional state at the time of their making. I am always reflecting on the state of current events and the overlap of the historical and the mythic—but I realize today that explaining is not needed, as we live in a world of 24/7 explanations, of everyone talking at once. Sitting down to make an intimate drawing is a conversation, a way of listening to what’s grumbling inside my body, and an attempt to transmit, nonverbally, an experience of being. It’s a hopeful act: an attentive and often surprising exercise I forget to do for long…

Overseeing the annual sample sale at her Greenpoint, Brooklyn, boutique, Aurora James is in her element. The minimalist space has been transformed into a kind of ad hoc exhibition of the back catalog of Brother Vellies, James’s accessories label, with glitter-flecked boots and glossy pink sandals spread out on concrete floors as a staff composed mostly of animated Gen- Z’ers unboxes more and more goodies. With shoes arranged in pastel semicircles and iridescent piles, the shop—replete with Hugo McCloud–designed columns and windows festooned with Cleo Wade poems—feels like a confectionery. James sees her handmade pieces as potential pick-me-ups, treats intended to lift the mood. “How can we use these amazing materials, vegetable dyes, and all the gifts Mother Nature gives us to make each other feel better?” she asks. “I…

The actor Jonathan Majors materializes on my computer screen like an Impressionist painting brought into focus: He is sitting in the peach-walled courtyard of a hacienda in New Mexico, and behind him are the slender base of a tree, springy green plants, bright purple flowers, and a blue ceramic vase holding more flowers, yellow this time. I can hear Ella Fitzgerald’s song “Solitude” playing in the background. The 30-year-old star of the new HBO horror series Lovecraft Country, about both the commonplace and supernatural terrors a young Black man encounters while searching for his father in Jim Crow–era America, is wearing a black leather beret and a black T-shirt with the words phenomenally black on it; he is also snacking on pretzels and looking at me with an impish smile.…

Christopher John Rogers, New York City Since winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award last year, Christopher John Rogers has been on a roll. The Baton Rouge–bred, New York–based designer kicked off 2020 by putting a new twist on old-world glamour. Filled with classic silhouettes and the iridescent fabrications that have become his trademark, his Madame Grès–inspired fall collection showcased the heights of his creativity. “We poured all of our hearts into the work,” Rogers says, “and it paid off.” After a successful postseason trip to Paris, where he introduced his work to a European audience, Rogers was riding high until the pandemic hit. Like many small-business owners, he was forced to make major changes amid the shutdowns. “Going from an adrenaline rush to a halt in work,” he says, “allowed…

Table of contents: 57: Dress, price upon request; alexandermcqueen.com. 76:Coat, $2,200; asatamaise.com. Shirt, price upon request; coach.com. Skirt, $2,110; miumiu.com. Cover look: 76: In artwork by Kerry James Marshall: Dress; off---white.com. In portrait of Aurora James by Jordan Casteel: Dress; $7,500; pyermoss.com. Shoe, $795; brothervellies.com. Editor’s letter: 86: On Gallina: Alexander McQueen coat (price upon request), earrings (price upon request), and harness ($890); alexandermcqueen.com. Birkenstock sandals, $100; birkenstock.com. On Grace: Gucci dress and shoes, priced upon request; gucci.com. Calzedonia socks, $6; calzedonia.com. PROTECTIVE MEASURES 148: Dress, price upon request. 18K-gold hoops with smoky-topaz charms, $6,400; ninarunsdorf.com. Huda Beauty Matte & Metal Melted Shadows in Limelight & Gold Chains, $25; hudabeauty.com. 149:Turtleneck; (212) 249-6552. Hijab, $20; hautehijab.com. Gold vermeil hoop earrings, $480; agmesnyc.com. Necklace, $6,500; available starting November at (800) 843-3269.…

Early this spring, in the first months of the pandemic, an interesting trend emerged in the data: Countries led by women appeared to be controlling the outbreak more successfully than countries led by men. Certain women leaders—Chancellor Angela Merkel of Germany and Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern of New Zealand, in particular—received praise from all corners of the globe for navigating impossibly challenging times with skill and vision. There’s something quite incredible about that: At a critical moment in world history, effective leadership had a woman’s face. Of course, what happens at the highest levels of power is only part of the story. Women’s leadership takes many forms and manifests in many ways. There are so many examples I could point to. Activists like Greta Thunberg, a voice of conscience on…

Ugbad Abdi, Model Brands should understand the importance of assembling a team that is diverse and inclusive, both in front of and behind the camera. I’d like to see more thought being put into making models of color feel comfortable backstage, whether that’s in terms of the hairstyling or in creating safe spaces in which models feel they can speak up and be heard. More and more, I’m considering the brands I work with and whether their values align with my own. This is a moment in which we should all feel more empowered. Virgil Abloh, Designer, Off-White and Louis Vuitton (men) I’m 39 years old, and it’s taken 39 years to get here, to prove my pedigree. I’m one of the few Black designers on the Parisian fashion calendar.…

When the art collector Liz Swig approached the American artist and filmmaker Rashid Johnson in January about a jewelry collaboration, she could little imagine that by summer, Johnson’s frenzied Anxious Men drawings—on which she’s based a collection of cuffs, ring bands, signet rings, and military tags, available this month—would become a startlingly effective shorthand for the national mood. Since 2014, Swig has partnered with the likes of Kara Walker and Cindy Sherman to offer porcelain tableware, cameo jewelry, and other objets d’art through her creative platform, LizWorks, and after asking seven women artists (including Mickalene Thomas and Rachel Feinstein) to reimagine the charm bracelet in 2016, “I wanted to explore male energy in the realm of jewelry,” Swig says. She found a good way in through Anxious Men, a rare…

In 2006 I was dispatched to Marrakech to document Ain Kassimou, the storied estate of the legendary tastemaker Marella Agnelli. The adventure was made all the more delightful by the presence of one of Agnelli’s houseguests, her beloved friend Federico Forquet, who proved to be a very witty raconteur. “Senti,” he will whisper conspiratorially—“Listen”—and the stories begin. I knew that Federico, a patrician Neapolitan, had been a couturier who apprenticed with Cristóbal Balenciaga in the 1950s before establishing his eponymous couture house on Rome’s Via Condotti in 1961. I also knew that he was the owner of a remarkable house and gardens of his own in the Tuscan countryside, to which he graciously invited me. Because of our relentless mutual jet-setting, it took me a decade to make a pilgrimage…

VOGUE AUSTRALIA As both an artist and a Ngangkari—one of Australia’s traditional healers—Betty Muffler creates pieces that are meant to restore. Here she dedicates a painting colored with a red ochre pigment to her native Australia—a country ravaged by wildfires earlier in the year. The lacelike brushstrokes evoke the cascade of water collected into tjukula tjuta (rock holes) when it rains. Ngangkari Ngura (Healing Country), by Betty Muffler, 2020. BRITISH VOGUE This spring, Captain Sir Tom Moore, a 100-year-old British World War II veteran, completed 100 laps around his Bedfordshire garden in the hopes of raising £1,000 for the National Health Service. In total, his walks raised more than £32 million and earned the captain a knighthood. VOGUE SPAIN “Did the waves pass yet?” reads the note scrawled beneath this…