Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2020 i Vogue

TOWARD THE END OF LAST YEAR, all the editors in chief of Vogue from around the world gathered to discuss joining forces and to consider what we could achieve if we worked en masse. Our first initiative was the setting out of our Vogue Values, a commitment to stand behind crucial principles—respect, inclusivity, transparency, diversity, and sustainability. But, of course, as with everything in life today, words need to be matched by deeds. The coming together of so many editors inspired an idea for this April’s cover story, which celebrates global beauty in all its infinite varieties. The Vogue editors nominated 28 models from around the world who they felt truly represented their country, and the young women we celebrate here do just that—as much by their grace and their…

FASHION “I think Debo would have had this in Chatsworth,” says Erdem Moralioglu sweepingly in his Shoreditch studio, as he walks me through his new collaboration with British wallpaper house de Gournay. “I think she would go for the pale duck-egg blue—perhaps with a Lucian Freud overhanging.” The London-based designer with a penchant for romanticism and a talent for storytelling is now bringing a new narrative to de Gournay with his own hand-painted wallpaper and an accompanying capsule collection of 11 pieces inspired by the wallpaper design. This is a fashion-meets-interiors union as symbiotic as it is exquisite: de Gournay’s reputation for creating what is essentially couture for the home rests largely on its fantastical, hand-painted chinoiserie wallpaper panels, which were the starting point for Moralioglu’s collection. While chinoiserie was…

SKIN CARE At the recently opened Ever/Body in downtown New York City, where Clear + Brilliant laser facials are offered alongsie Botox injections, jade-colored walls provide the backdrop for potted plants and stacks of Assouline books. It’s chic, relaxed, and bears little resemblance a traditional doctor’s office. Just a few years ago, laser treatments like this one—that target uneven texture and pigmentation with 1,440 nanometers of light—were rarely available outside whitewashed clinical spaces; now, similar high-tech devices are becoming household names. If you recognize “Pico Genesis” and “IPL” from regular appearances on Instagram—not to mention subway ads, sidewalk sandwich boards, and dinner conversations—you’re not alone. “We’re leveraging technology in all areas of our lives,” says Kate Twist, a former executive at Clinique and the CEO and cofounder of Ever/Body. “Why…

FASHION You can learn a lot from gazing at the treadmill screen at the gym while willing yourself to simply keep going. Case in point: On a recent Sex and the City rerun, Sarah Jessica Parker spent a (really) inordinate amount of time cooing over her new crystal-buckled Manolo Blahniks. The very premise seems so preposterous now, and yet…can you remember when obsessing over shoes was the giddiest of delights—something not only allowed but encouraged? There’s something of that escapist feeling to be derived from spring’s new street-level fantasias—Dries Van Noten’s glam-rock platforms, conjured out of the Belgian designer’s collaboration with Christian Lacroix, or Prada’s gilded sandals with straps that entwine and ensnare the foot. Proenza Schouler’s marigold knotted-satin numbers have the same vibe, their sheeny lusciousness balanced with that…

It’s time to untangle our identities from the numbers and years, and to rethink what it means to be BEAUTIFUL. Beauty knows no gender, no size, no limits. It has no one look or shape. To be POWERFUL is to be beautiful; to feel VITAL is to be beautiful. The skin is a canvas of life’s experiences, and to have the CONFIDENCE to share your story with pride is perhaps the most beautiful thing of all. PRESENTED BY…

Karen Williams After a nearly 30-year hiatus from modeling, Karen Williams made a counterintuitive return to the industry to “disrupt outdated notions about aging,” she says. Fashion has undergone a drastic shift around representation and body positivity since Williams got her start at 13, notes the 54-year-old. Still, she says, age nonconformity is the last frontier for true inclusivity—“especially with regard to women of all colors.” The Washington, D.C.–born beauty, who was raised between Toronto and Jamaica, is a vocal and visible advocate for the cause, appearing alongside her 80-year-old mother for H&M, as well as in makeup artist Riku Campo’s upcoming book, which celebrates women 40 and over. Changing the narrative is key, says Williams, who hosts “I AM Conversations,” a web series dedicated to her demographic. “Our thoughts…

WHEN I WAS A CHILD I spent many sweltering summers in my aunt’s Shanghai apartment, which had one air-conditioning unit that was only turned on for the hottest hour of the afternoon. Unused to the heat, I was often weak and nauseated. To assess my health, my aunt would palm my forehead and check my tongue for changes in color and shape. Then she’d clear the hair from the back of my neck and, with a spoon—or more often, her knuckles—press and pull at my skin until a reddish-purple mark appeared. I was suffering from heatstroke, she said, and this friction would draw out the toxins that were making me feel sick. The darker the resulting welts, according to her, the more bad energy had been released. Did it work?…

When your travel trunk is too cumbersome to tote around—yet you want that far-flung, I’m-literally-going-places look—Louis Vuitton has the bag for you. Just what is it, though? Nothing less than a crocodile skin dyed in a trio of summery hues (Caribbean blue, flamingo pink, and leafy green) and neatly wrapped around a box-shaped bag with sturdy, luggage-like hardware and a slithering shoulder strap. Sling it on, and suddenly your morning commute is more like a Grand Tour.…

TELEVISION In the first episode of Mrs. America (FX on Hulu), Phyllis Schlafly (played by a wickedly composed Cate Blanchett) sits in the guest chair of a daytime–talk show host. She’s there to discuss the Soviet nuclear threat, her specialty, but the male host offers her a condescending little reminder: “Don’t forget to smile.” She gives him a tepid curl of the mouth, and then verbally eviscerates him once the lights go up. Schlafly—a failed congressional candidate and mother of five—proceeds to storm the country, proselytizing for what she sees as “traditional values” and becoming America’s foremost anti-feminist. Despise her or idolize her, she was a force—her ardor often paradoxically at odds with the meek vision of womanhood she espoused. Thankfully, though, there are no paper-cutout villains or heroines in…

MAKEUP When Erika La’ Pearl was just starting out in Miami in the early 2000s, before she became Cardi B’s lead makeup artist and before she touched up Brazilian pop star Ludmilla’s signature lashes and lids, she had a hard time finding foundations. “Most of my clients at the time were brown-skinned women,” says La’ Pearl, and there just weren’t enough shade options—and certainly nothing that worked with her budget at the beginning of her career. Then she found Black Opal at a local beauty-supply store. “It was one of my first beauty products,” she says. “At the time, they only had a small range, but their colors matched everyone.” La’ Pearl’s experience was not dissimilar to my own. While Fenty Beauty’s arrival has inspired an industry-wide mandate for inclusive…

I grew up in Tennessee, playing chase out in the country and riding horses from a very early age. I won the Miss Teenage Memphis pageant when I was 16, though I didn’t even make it into the finals at Miss Teenage America. The woman who took the crown did the hula for her talent, and I couldn’t compete! But it was all based on how photogenic you were, and two years later, I won Model of the Year on a network television pageant; I was blessed. It was just a roll of the dice that my face would be so symmetrical. People in the industry suggested I come to New York, but my parents and I both agreed that I should graduate from high school first. My grandparents gave…

BOOKS It’s one of the great mysteries: What becomes of the woman who existed before baby came along? Is motherhood a zero-sum game, or is there room for self-preservation among all the new passions and anxieties? In Emily Gould’s Perfect Tunes (Avid Reader Press), a young musician has a baby before she’s had a chance to realize her own ambitions, laying bare the tensions between her desires for herself and her daughter. The recently expelled doctoral student at the center of Rebecca Dinerstein Knight’s Hex (Viking) is caught up in a different kind of aspiration gone awry. A scientist illicitly studying poison, she is also indulging an obsession with her former adviser, a woman whose academic ruthlessness she worships but cannot emulate. Hex isn’t experimental, exactly, but with its meticulous…

TRAVEL When Alyssa Ravasio founded Hipcamp in 2013, she wanted to create a website that not only made campsites, log cabins, tree houses, and the like easier to book, but welcomed those who didn’t fit the “man with beard conquering nature” archetype, as she puts it. “I never felt super-included in those images—I like being outside with my watercolors.” In 2019, her company was valued at $127 million. “Women today have the money to travel alone, and it’s socially acceptable to do so,” says Cece Drummond, a managing director at travel company Virtuoso. “That didn’t exist decades ago.” Google Trends reported a 35 percent increase in worldwide searches for “female solo travel” from 2018 to 2019, and booking platform Hostelworld saw an 88 percent rise in single women travelers over…

On a brisk morning in early January, the setting is ostensibly a photo studio in midtown Manhattan—though it could just as well be an arrivals terminal at JFK. Adut Akech, the gorgeous, gap-toothed South Sudanese–Australian model, has just arrived, carry-on in tow, after a 30-hour flight from her hometown of Adelaide. French model and engineering student Mariam de Vinzelle is nestled on the sofa, her head buried in a pile of textbooks as she studies for the classes she’ll take in Paris later in the week. Above the hum of hairdryers, models Jill Kortleve and Imaan Hammam—both transplants to New York from the Netherlands—can be heard chatting in Dutch. “Where else can you walk into a place and find people from all over the world?” observes Kaia Gerber—one of the…

DINNER STARTED WITH a fried skate wing. Upon closer inspection, it was skate-wing cartilage—the fish itself having been dispatched earlier to a less liberal-minded eater. What remained was salty, crisp, and delicately unctuous, especially dipped into smoked fish head–infused tartar sauce. Next was a precise and refreshing dice of bruised apples, bok-choy leaves, and fennel tops with an airy chickpea-water pistachio foam; then a restorative beefend broth; then a lightly cooked egg from scrap-fed hens. This was all back in the spring of 2015, when chef Dan Barber briefly turned the tiny West Village restaurant Blue Hill into a performance-art piece called wastED. Barber’s cooks used juice pulp from Liquiteria, fish skeletons from Acme fish, kale and cauliflower stems from produce wholesaler Baldor. They simmered, steamed, puréed, pressed, fried, and…

Table of contents: 26: On Champion: Crocheted dress ($7,200) and ivory dress underneath ($3,190), made to order; (212) 257-6907. Alexander McQueen earring, $790 for pair; Alexander McQueen, NYC. Bag, price upon request; bottegaveneta.com. At right: Hermès bag, $8,000; Hermès stores. Tailor, Hailey Desjardins. 36: On Copeland: Bodysuit, $88: skims.com. In this story: Tailor, Christy Rilling Studio. Cover look: 36: On Abdi: Denim vest, $50; ae.com. Dress, price upon request; Saint Laurent, NYC. Scarf (on head), $640; similar styles at celine.com. On Akech: Bra, bustier, and corset, priced upon request; Vera Wang, Beverly Hills. Jeans, $298; diesel.com. On Gerber: Bolero jacket (price upon request) and blouse ($1,700); celine.com. Jeans, $790; select Ralph Lauren stores. Manicurists, Dawn Sterling and Yuko Tsuchihashi. Tailor, Francisco Chaydez, Martin Keehn, Christy Rilling Studio V Life: 62: Manicurist,…