Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2020 i Vogue

THIS MONTH, we bring you three covers, each shot by a different photographer—along with many more images and works of art inside—of our March cover star, Billie Eilish, the young pop singer who has become rather a cultural provocateur in the last year or so. Not that she’d ever define herself that way: Billie told writer Rob Haskell as much when they met at her home in California—her parents’ home, in fact, where she still lives, as Billie only turned 18 at the end of last year—that she bristles against the very idea of being considered a rule-breaker. It’s very rare that we would choose to give the accolade of a cover so soon in anyone’s career, but there is something about Billie that is completely compelling, as you will…

Click. Click. Click. That’s the sound of millions of American women tapping on web links with headlines that read, the french girl’s guide to x, where X is whatever mystical Gallic property you prefer. Frenchwomen don’t get fat! They wake up with impeccable bedhead! They meet their lovers in insouciant-yet-polished ensembles like the ones in Hedi Slimane’s Celine spring 2020 show, that paean to the discreet charm of the ’70s-era French bourgeoisie. We, les américaines, can’t get enough. What’s their secret? we wonder—and on we click. Since the dawn of the Republic, American women have looked to the City of Light for beauty, fashion, and lifestyle cues. The Belle Époque aesthetic that Nicolas Ghesquière referenced at his Louis Vuitton show this season is the same one that dazzled Gilded Age…

In designing this dress for Aussie actor Thomasin Mckenzie, Alexandra O’Neill of Markarian, the NYC-based label making girls-about-town even more enchanting, mined past Italian holidays—whether her own or the ones seen in The Talented Mr. Ripley. “There’s something about summer in Italy,” she says, and more specifically, Tuscany’s Villa di Geggiano, where every wall is “beautifully frescoed or covered in delicately printed fabrics.” Much like the Lily of the Valley lace she used to construct this waist-nipping, hip-hugging frock. SUMMER LOVE O’NEILL WAS INSPIRED BY THE ATMOSPHERIC ITALIAN SCENERY OF THE TALENTED MR. RIPLEY. BUDDING ROMANCE THE DRESS IS MADE OF LACE SPRAYED WITH BERRY-COLORED LILY OF THE VALLEY CLUSTERS. WONDER WALL THE DESIGNER SNAPPED THIS PHOTO OF THE 18TH-CENTURY TROMPE L’OEIL WALLPAPER AT VILLA DI GEGGIANO.…

Almost a decade ago, while making a pitch for what would become Drest—“the world’s first interactive luxury styling game,” launching this month—Lucy Yeomans, then editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar UK, got the kind of reaction that makes sense only when you remember that in 2010, smartphones were young, apps were just catching on as shopping tools, and games were primarily the provenance of teenage boys. “They were like, ‘Oh, this is a wonderful idea—why don’t you do it with Mr. Porter?’ And I said, ‘No—this is for women!’” Yeomans, whose own gaming experience is mostly limited to Scrabble, had watched FarmVille, the agriculture-simulation social network, rack up 38 million likes. “I saw people I respected playing this game where they had to grow strawberry patches and herd chicks and…

Once upon a time, long before Armani Beauty’s Luminous Silk Foundation changed the way women thought about full-coverage cosmetics, you had to cocktail different formulas together to get shine and dimension. “We had to cheat to get the glow,” Armani Beauty’s international makeup artist Linda Cantello recalls of life without the best-selling product, which launched in 2000, inspired by the texture, weightlessness, and translucency of charmeuse silk. The formula heralded a lightweight, natural-looking, lit-from-within skin finish for the new millennium, appealing to everyone from Serena Williams to the Duchess of Sussex. “It was ahead of its time,” Cantello suggests, nodding to the skin care–first, makeup-second mandate from brands such as Glossier that has made full-coverage dirty words in 2020. Those light-reflecting, pearlescent pigments that melt into the skin have already…

In the space between contemporary and classic, formality and comfort, fashion thrives. A feminine, scene-stealing look meets street-ready sandals. A sophisticated take on the track suit pairs with a statement-making slip-on. Here German model and lifelong Birkenstock devotee Maya Stepper shows us how the timeless footwear transcends traditional rules, playing just as well with dresses as it does with denim, making it the most transitional style of all. The new Birkenstock Siena Sandal is currently available only at Nordstrom. Today’s fashion ethos gets its fluidity from effortless, seasonless, timeless styles that go everywhere. PRODUCED BY VOGUE WITH BIRKENSTOCK…

Table of contents: 72: Knit top ($840), earrings ($495), and shell necklaces ($1,100–$2,850); prada.com. Pearl necklace, $7,140; mikimotoamerica.com. Manicurist, Marisa Carmichael. Tailor, Susie’s Custom Designs. 114: Dress (price upon request) and loafers (price upon request); select Louis Vuitton stores. Socks, $96; Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. Manicurist, Ama Quashie. Tailor, Della George. Cover looks: 114: 1. Jacket ($2,980) and sterling-silver necklace (price upon request); gucci.com. Sterling-silver earrings, $130; themjewelersny.com. Manicurist, Emi Kudo. Tailor, Karla Miranda. 2. Parka ($2,450) and shirt ($895); versace.com. Diamond earrings, $77,000; Jacob & Co., NYC. Manicurist, Emi Kudo. Tailor, Karla Miranda. 3. Jacket, $2,690; select Prada stores. Earrings, $1,175; select Chanel stores. Diamond ring, price upon request; Jacob & Co., NYC. Manicurist, Emi Kudo. Tailor, Karla Miranda. Editor’s letter: 118: Top left photo: Shirt ($850) and pants ($950);…

Dior tote, $3,900 How green does your garden grow? Well, Christian Dior is here to ensure it fairly shimmers like an emerald. Vogue commissioned this special-edition canvas gardening bag—shown first on Dior’s most recent runway in the maison’s indigo monogram—done up in a toile de Jouy. (The inspiration: Catherine Dior, M. Dior’s sister, who was not only a gardener but a botanist to boot.) No land to tend? No matter: Stick a baguette in one of the eight pouches (as our ingenious photographers did) for a picnic in the park. It’s all about celebrating the great outdoors.…

In the fall of my senior year in college, a guy from my 17th century–literature class asked me out. We saw a movie about the Vietnam War and went back to his rented house for a beer. He was quirky and cute, but we were stiff and unnatural together, and I remember thinking, as I sat on his couch, that we probably shouldn’t go out again. Then his roommate, Henry*, came home from his date. It was the ’80s in North Carolina, and everyone had a date on Saturday night. Henry behaved like he’d just gotten out of jail. He came into the living room and acted out the goodbye at his date’s sorority house, how he’d put the screen door between them before he’d have to kiss her. He…

For 14 months, Athena Calderone ping-ponged between the East and West Coast and farther off to Copenhagen and Lyon for her latest book, Live Beautiful (Abrams), produced with photographer Nicole Franzen. By the end, she was left with a collection of design magazine–worthy photographs, but also a number of shots that captured her from a less glamorous vantage. “I was looking at the behind-the-scenes photos, and there were all of these images of me in somebody’s shower,” she recalls with amusement. After studying interior design at Parsons, Calderone launched her website, EyeSwoon, in 2011 to disseminate original photography of her unpretentious but elegant at-home life. Her rise coincided with that of Brooklyn as an aesthetic, not just an alternative borough, and she has hordes of disciples who home-make à la…

The Coachella music festival, not necessarily known for its adorable moments, offered up the pop equivalent of two baby pandas playing when, under the pink arena lights and to the accompaniment of the cheering and frantic uploading of a thousand teenage witnesses, Billie Eilish met her idol, Justin Bieber, for the first time last April. The scene, touching as it was, begged consideration of its broader culture significance. Here were two pop prodigies, ages 17 and 25, at rather different points in their career arcs. The walls of Eilish’s childhood bedroom were once papered with images of Bieber, and when he enfolded her oversize denim bootleg Louis Vuitton–logoed self in a long embrace, a chasm seemed to yawn underneath their adjacent but distinct generations. Eilish, whose full-length album, When We…

Pieces of Mind NESTA COOPER WAS INTO “clean beauty” long before it became an industry buzzword. “Those types of things have always been in my routine,” the 26-year-old Canadian-Jamaican actress says of plant-based products such as African black soap and soothing castor oil, which were staples in her childhood home on Vancouver Island. Now based in Los Angeles, Cooper—who got her big break in Netflix’s 2017’s teen dramedy #RealityHigh—is still committed to a low-impact lifestyle. “I’m constantly thinking of different ways to do better,” she continues. The less-is-more philosophy is fitting for her role as a “cave girl with dreads,” as she puts it, in Apple TV+’s See, a post-apocalyptic series in which resources are scarce. Cooper also frequents L.A.’s secondhand shops in a nod to upcycling—one of the major…

Jane Fonda is the most intimidating person I’ve ever met. It was nearly 20 years ago, a week before George W. Bush’s inauguration, when I arrived at the door of her hotel suite in Santa Monica to interview her for Vogue. I remember an outstretched arm—Hi, I’m Jane Fonda—a rigid handshake, and a once-over. No phony smile or how nice to seeeee you. As we sat down, I asked how much time I had. “Let’s start with an hour,” she said, curtly. No amount of friendly chit-chat—how about this rain?—changed the dynamic. Indeed, I had to fight the urge to flee. Only once I started asking direct, pointed questions (and stopped wasting her time) did things turn around and she talked animatedly, sometimes wildly gesticulating, for well over an hour.…

When Agnes Pelton’s airy, luminous abstractions arrive at the Whitney Museum in New York this month for Agnes Pelton: Desert Transcendentalist, it will be something of a homecoming for the artist, who spent much of her childhood in Brooklyn and developed her enigmatic style while living in an abandoned Long Island windmill in the 1920s. You could be forgiven, however, for not discerning these roots. At 50, Pelton, a devotee of theosophy and Agni yoga, permanently decamped to Cathedral City, California, a dusty town outside Palm Springs, and her work took on the expansive feel of the desert. Curator Gilbert Vicario, who organized the Phoenix Art Museum’s traveling survey, calls her paintings “metaphysical landscapes,” and the Whitney curator Barbara Haskell says the canvases were “vehicles for Pelton’s own insight into…

“I really want to go back to an idea of smiley fashion,” says Guillaume Henry, smiling broadly. Henry, the creative director of the newly relaunched Patou, is determined, as he puts it, “to wake up this sleeping beauty”—by which he means Patou, a brand from the Jazz Age that has been lying dormant since 1987. Henry says that he wants to make impeccable clothes that are sleek and fun and pretty—serious in execution but playful in personality. “It’s about desire, about being spontaneous—everything I love!” The designer, who has astonishingly blue eyes and looks a little like a grown-up Tintin, previously reinvented Carven a decade ago, making that label a destination for young Parisiennes (and Parisienne pretenders around the world) and served for three years as creative director of Nina…

When Fanny Singer was a baby, her mother, the culinary demigod Alice Waters, would take her to Waters’s famed Berkeley restaurant, Chez Panisse, swaddle her in fresh dish towels, and place her in an extra-large salad bowl while she worked. Singer attributes her lifelong love of greens to these “early kitchen cribs.” “It was definitely an unconventional upbringing,” concedes the 36-year-old by phone from San Francisco. Singer’s memoir, Always Home: A Daughter’s Recipes & Stories (Knopf), out this month, is a tender portrait of the woman better known to the world as the mother of the farm-to-table movement. The book is organized into chapters mostly named after seemingly simple dishes, such as “Chicken Stock” or “Potpie” (transformed, of course, under Waters’s precise care, into something transcendent), and punctuated by recipes.…