Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2016 i Vogue

When my mother was pulled into a pool in the midst of a raucous party, it was by my father, who was in the process of divorcing her. It was 2002, at a farm in Virginia. The dancing at the party was frenetic, and the two of them, Henry and Lindy, were at the center of it. Even as they were coming undone, they couldn’t stop dancing with each other. At some point someone pushed a guest, fully clothed, into the pool, setting off a cheerful melee of tumbling waterborne partygoers. My mother playfully shoved her soon-to-be ex-husband, and as he fell, he grabbed her arm and she tumbled in on top of him. They were underwater unraveling limb from limb, and when my father emerged to the surface he…

“People will do good if you incentivize them” is how Elizabeth Edelman, 28, describes the core ethos of Global Citizen, a nonprofit created to fight extreme poverty in developing nations. Small actions (dozens of which are curated on its Web site) like tweeting at a world leader, signing a petition, or protesting at an embassy can earn you points; earn a certain amount, and you’re rewarded with free access not only to GC’s massive annual music festival—this year’s, on September 24 in Central Park, will feature Selena Gomez, Kendrick Lamar, and Rihanna—but also to partner concerts all around the world. “If we get someone’s attention with the concert,” Edelman says, “they might realize they care about these issues and take even more action.” Edelman, now a vice president of the…

In an age of manufactured radio sensations, Claire Boucher—more commonly known as her experimental-music alter ego, Grimes—has become something of a DIY pop icon. There's a lot to latch on to when it comes to Boucher's singular appeal: Consider her high-octane live shows, which see the classically trained ballerina bounce across the stage while delivering a stunning stream of self-written, selfproduced dance tracks; or her designer cred, which has earned the 28-year-old front-row seats at Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton, not to mention an Alexander Wang campaign. Butwhile the Vancouver native's 2015 albumArt Angels helped cement her as an alt-influencer in the mainstream music scene (as well as a Stella McCartney fragrance face), it's her chameleon-like hair—which has seen shades of anime-influenced orange, green, pink, and blue—that has become perhaps…

For more than a decade, experts thought that the importance of traditional stretching before exercise was overstated; it could even hinder performance. Now multiple studies are revising that position: Only the most elite athletes could notice the potential detriment. For the rest of us, going beyond knees-toes-done may improve injury prevention, range of motion, and possibly our appearance. Just in time for these findings comes an explosion of classes and studios dedicated solely to limbering up. Heather Andersen’s Stretch sessions at New York Pilates in SoHo include lengthening (without tensing) moves on the reformer. Ropes and bands are the tools of the Stretch Therapy class at Equinox in Beverly Hills, while trainers called “flexologists” manually assist clients into deeper bends and splits at Stretch Lab in Santa Monica and Venice.…

maggie Rogers had not written music for nearly three years when, in a cascade of creativity this past March, it took her fifteen minutes to produce a song called “Alaska.” Four days later, Rogers, then a senior at NYU, played the track—which combines the confessional lyricism of folk music with a trotting electronic rhythm—in a master class hosted by Pharrell Williams. “Wow. I have zero, zero, zero notes for that,” Williams said afterward, almost teary-eyed. “It’s singular. . . . And that is such a special quality.” The video went viral. A few months later, over breakfast at Rucola in Brooklyn’s Boerum Hill (and wearing the silver scarab earrings from the Pharrell clip), Rogers, 22, says that moment still feels like a fluke: “I only had one song to submit.”…

for a few weeks last winter, a pair of rumpled, cranky, decidedly un-PC 70-something bachelors from New York’s Upper West Side—one an unsuccessful actor currently employed as a stand-in for mashed potatoes and other creamed foods, the other the author of Prostate Cancer as a Metaphor for Israel—starred in an Off-Broadway show that became, alongside Hamilton, the hottest ticket in town. The show was Oh, Hello Live! on (Off) Broadway, and its creators, Gil Faizon and George St. Geegland, spent 70 minutes performing a play-within-a-play called We’re Us, You’re You, Let’s Talk, extolling the virtues of Alan Alda, Steely Dan, and Ed Koch, kibitzing about their old friend “Bernard” Sanders (“He’s running for president? President of what? The dandruff-on-blazers society?”), and pranking a rotating series of guest stars by presenting…

Ralph Lauren is no stranger to crossing frontiers—he’s been doing it for years; decades even—but the territory he’s just lit out for doesn’t come with any signposting. On September 14, Ralph (as with Hillary or Kanye, the first name alone suffices) presented a collection that was available to buy nanoseconds after it was walked down the runway, and globally at that: in his own boutiques, online, and in stores dotted around the world. Maybe the gargantuan scale of the undertaking subconsciously influenced the design process, because what he showed, which you can see here on five very different all-American women, is a virtual ode to vastness—from the wide-open vistas of the mythic West (fringing, buffalo plaid) to the towering, twinkling metropolis that is New York (fluid jumpsuits, Art Deco beading…

Table of Contents 61: On Kloss: Coat ($4,950) and boots ($1,860); Proenza Schouler, NYC. On Newton: Cardigan ($1,698) and shirt ($574); rafsimons.com. Jeans, $249; Baldwin, Kansas City, MO. Clarks boots, $130; clarksusa.com. Cover look 94: Dress, $67,900; select Chanel boutiques. Earrings, $9,190; Barneys New York, NYC. Editor’s letter 108: On Nyong’o: Dress, $2,040; matchesfashion.com. Pichulik earrings, $75; pichulik.com. Lives 130: Tailor, Cora James for Lars Nord Agency. On Quinn: Marni dress, price upon request; select Marni boutiques. Zino Jewellery earrings, $750; daniellezino.com. Sam Edelman pumps, $120; samedelman.com. Talking Fashion 187: Dress, $1,395; modaoperandi.com. 194: Loafers, $1,250; Barneys New York, NYC. 198: Paco Rabanne bra (worn under sheer top), price upon request; pacorabanne.com. Beauty 215: Manicure, Christina Aviles for Dior Vernis. Blazer (part of a suit), price upon request; schiaparelli.com for…

NOVEMBER 13, 10:37 p.m. Melvil fell asleep without a murmur, as he usually does when his mama isn’t there. He knows that with Papa, the lullabies are not as soft and the hugs not as warm, so he doesn’t expect too much. To keep myself awake until she gets home, I read. It’s the story of a novelist turned detective who discovers that a novelist turned murderer did not actually write the novel that made him want to become a novelist. My phone, lying on my bedside table, buzzes. I read the text from a friend: “Hey, everything OK? Are you at home?” I hate those text messages that don’t really say anything. I don’t reply. “Everything OK?” “ . . . ” “Are you safe?” What’s that supposed to…

A rose, to a deer, is like caviar,” observes Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi, greeting me at the end of the milelong, tree-lined drive to her new English country home in Upton Cheyney, Gloucestershire. The eighteenthcentury stone cottage has become a choice destination for roe deer, led by their surprisingly sophisticated palates to the dense rose borders that encircle the magical property. (The extensive lands surrounding the house, meanwhile, include 25 acres devoted to sheep grazing and 30 for an arboretum.) Choi, 43, decamps to the country most Fridays from the Battersea, London, town house she shares with her GREEN PEACE CHOI SHARES A QUIET MOMENT IN THE HAZELNUT WALKWAY WITH HER DAUGHTER PHOENIX. artist husband, Tamburlaine Gorst, and their two daughters, Phoenix, six, and Cyan, three. Breezily dressed…

As you wander through neondrenched Myeong-dong, the whirlwind district in Seoul, South Korea, where beauty trends are born and die, it's hard not to be struck by the sheer number of game-changing ideas that have sprung forth from this place. It's where the BB cream phenomenon took off, and where cotton and coconut-gel sheet masks had their humble beginnings. With its whiplash pace and wildly experimental spirit, the country's expertise in innovation is changing the way we think about color—and cleverness— when it comes to cosmetics. Take stamp pad-inspired cushion technology, for example: Once a formulating coup that could only be experienced a few time zones away, a liquid foundation- or blush-soaked sponge tucked into a convenient compact has now been spun off by almost every big brand worth its…

Call it the Oval, the Almond, or the Adele. This season’s chicest nail is all about feminine length, soft edges, and carefully considered gestures. “It forces you to act very ladylike in your movements,” manicurist Madeline Poole says of the elliptical style seen on Gigi Hadid and Selena Gomez, whose recordbreaking Instagram—featuring crimson tips curled around a Coke—suggested that opening a soda should always require assistance. “The truth is, it never really left,” Rihanna’s nail artist Kimmie Kyees notes of the popular-again shape. While acrylics (glued and sanded into conical obedience) and press-ons (a gentler drugstore mainstay) offer instant gratification, there’s an uptick in women who are nurturing their own nails to keyboard-defiant lengths. “My friend Carlotta Kohl spent all summer growing hers out,” Poole says of the New York–…

It’s the morning after yet another high-profile shooting by police of a black man, and Brit Bennett’s tank top, with a line drawing of Beyoncé throwing up her middle fingers, perfectly suits the mood. On Skype from L.A., the 26-year-old is discussing The Mothers (Riverhead), her buzzed-about debut, set in an African-American community in a Southern California beach town. Partly narrated by a group of gossipy church ladies, it focuses on teenage Nadia—“Like most girls, she’d already learned that pretty exposes you and pretty hides you”—who gets involved with the pastor’s son after her mother’s suicide. With echoes of James Baldwin’s Go Tell It on the Mountain, The Mothers is not your typical coming-of-age novel: It begins with Nadia’s abortion, an experience often absent from our culture’s stories, and goes…

AS THE ELEVATOR DOORS PARTED, I ROLLED my suitcase onto the polished concrete floor and took in my friend’s airy new loft: recessed lighting, chrome accents, the modular de Sede sectional where I’d be sleeping during an early-summer West Coast getaway. Exactly the kind of graphic, minimalist decor you’d expect from a successful Bay Area techie. There was one outlier, though. On the desk in the corner, a pink salt–crystal lamp was stationed beside an open laptop. It emitted a warm glow. “What’s that about?” I asked. “Ions,” she replied, walking over and touching a hand to the crystal. “Ions.” That was my first encounter with pink salt, and I haven’t been able to avoid the stuff since—salmon steaks grilling on a pink-salt slab in Montauk; jars of edible pink…

Just to be clear: While social media didn’t start the fire that is street-fashion illustration, they certainly fanned its flames. Unlike in the seventies and eighties, though—the last time illustration was this huge—the hottest illustrators posting today are predominantly female, and in their new relationships with designers and brands they’re having some fun with fashion. The London-based painter Helen Downie began quietly putting her work on Instagram three years ago; 220,000 followers later, her illustrations are collected by Alessandro Michele, the Gucci creative director—and, in their touched-by-the-hand quality and their link to an earlier tradition, are even seen as a kind of encapsulation of the Gucci moment. “I love Helen’s work,” Michele says. “Her illustrations immediately get me in touch with my inner child—the dreamlike, fairy-tale part of me.” And…

You must excuse my hair,” says nineteenyear-old Ellie Bamber, pushing back her damp auburn locks. Dressed in only an oversize Calvin Klein T-shirt thrown over her bathing suit, the energetic British actress is taking a break from promoting Tom Ford’s film Nocturnal Animals (page 288) when I reach her via Skype at a villa with her family on Spain’s Costa Brava. Even post-swim, Bamber’s tresses against her pale skin create an Egon Schiele effect—and Ford, meanwhile, seems to be developing a propensity for redheads akin to Hitchcock’s for blondes. Bamber, though, freely admits that the color isn’t natural. “I turned red for the film—but it suits me.” As the on-screen daughter of Jake Gyllenhaal and Isla Fisher, Bamber is brazen, vulnerable, and at the epicenter of the film’s violent story…

NILI LOTAN I need those jeans,” my friend Stella says of my darkwash, slouchy style—replete with buttons that climb the leg—over dinner at the Soho House’s newest location, the Ludlow. Despite some apprehension (I hadn’t donned wide-leg flares since junior high school), I was instantly sold. She tries to guess the label, rattling off a few usual suspects without success. But this pair came from a new and unlikely source—one that’s sure to inspire obsession among denim-heads everywhere. Nili Lotan has always been grounded in realness; the Israeli-born designer built her brand of covetable basics on stripes, slips, and crisp white shirting. Given her highly personal approach to dressing (Lotan is the first to admit that she designs for herself), it makes sense that she is finally embracing blue as…

Before the Olympics came to town, Louis Vuitton brought its athletic-inspired resort-2017 collection to Rio. It was hard to compete with the show's dramatic ocean backdrop, but the electric-blue cat eyes worn by a select group of models still managed to stand out, offering a futuristic complement to modern, racing-striped graphics. Chromat's experimental designs have made fast fans of stylc-sawy stars like Nicki Minaj, Taylor Swift, and FKA Twigs. The New York label's breakout fall-2016 show took a more streamlined, architectural approach, enhanced by linear blue eyeliner motifs that evoked the collection's fitness-friendly pieces. For his Gucci resort-2017 show, creative director Alcssandro Michelc took over Westminster Abbey and sent a parade of English eccentrics through the landmark building's hallowed halls. Among Michele's subversive touches: shimmering blue lips, which further emphasized…

EDITOR: CELIA ELLENBERG T here are plenty of essentials in Isamaya Ffrench’s “kit,” as the makeup artist refers to the multitiered suitcase currently overflowing in a Hollywood photo studio: cream foundations, concealers, mascaras, and an impressive collection of HD makeup that Ffrench loads into her trusty airbrush gun with habitual ease. But the bulk of the contents are less familiar: Kryolan’s wax and latex; a selection of Temptu’s Dura Color, alcohol-based waterproof liquids that Ffrench uses to make prosthetics look “more believable”; and a bountiful supply of clay. “It’s good to mix in for cracking effects and texture,” she says casually. Despite having logged just five years in a highly competitive industry, the 27-year-old Ffrench, a petite brunette with clear blue eyes, full lips, and a newly cut chin-grazing bob,…

Gwyneth Paltrow: yes. Daria Strokous: on board. Dree Hemingway: “Always.” The proclaimed benefits of probiotic supplements are hard to resist. Said to boost levels of beneficial bacteria that live in the gut, they are credited with helping to regulate our immune system, mood, weight, and complexion. Claims of an improved sense of irony should be rolling in any day now. A new study led by Oluf Pedersen, M.D., at the University of Copenhagen, however, suggests there is no merit to them for the average person: No consistent effects were found on the bacterial makeup of healthy adults taking probiotic supplements versus those who were not. According to Pedersen, “There is scientific evidence that probiotics have beneficial effects in some forms of colitis and irritable-colon diseases.” For the unafflicted, he tells…

The gum ball–machine toy gets a fresh spin with artist Anandamayi Arnold’s surprise-filled fruits, inspired by vintage botanical prints, her own travels, and a sense of whimsy. Found exclusively at the cult Berkeley-based boutique Tail of the Yak, where the designer began selling ribbon flowers at fifteen, each one is crafted out of crepe paper and vibrant inks and contains ten little gifts, from novelty toys to glass-bead necklaces from India. As with this autumnal blood orange, Arnold likes to stay in season. “I wouldn’t do holly in July or watermelons in December,” she says.—SAMANTHA REES…

It was a feast to remember, 22 courses, all chosen and prepared by the chef himself, right then and there, plus three wines poured in generous amounts. The restaurant was Shuko, a relatively new place on East Twelfth Street in Manhattan. There was no written menu, so every course was a surprise. We started with a bang, a tiny bang: one Kumamoto oyster, small and briny, nearly frozen and topped with chopped apple; next, a one-inch square of mochi heaped with bright-green pistachio miso; and then a small, flat bowl filled with the youngest, earliest spring vegetables and cubes of raw scallop, all glistening under a mild vinaigrette. The next dish was a bit more substantial—sweet translucent strips of raw trout laid on a thick oval of rice, and over…

Proenza Schouler bag, $1,595 The unflashy flash of yellow on this otherwise subdued bucket tote is just what we’ve come to expect from the boys at Proenza Schouler—pieces that coolly stand out without showing off. In this bag’s case, the sunny leather whipstitch is the first of many unusually charming details: The snakeskin edging on each panel lends a hint of the exotic, while the discreet silver toggle closure adds some fine-jewelry finesse. This cleverly constructed carryall has been dubbed the Hex for its geometric shape (the swirling canvas slices emerge smoothly from a six-sided base) and has become an anchor piece for a brand known for its best-in-show bags. It’s wearable minimalism at its chicest max. PHOTOGR APHED BY ERI C B OMAN…