Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2020 i Vogue

When Leo Ghitis, the owner of Nayara Tented Camp, first purchased the hilly landscape bordering Costa Rica’s Arenal Volcano National Park, all the trees had been razed to create a cow pasture—emblematic of a troubling trend, where one-third of the forest in the country has disappeared in the last 70 years. “Bringing back the rain forest was a huge objective. We wanted it to be the way it was,” Ghitis says. So he hired a landscape architect from Australia who specialized in reforesting the land with guarumo trees—a species beloved by the Costa Rican sloths, which had suffered due to the devastation of their habitat. The resort now includes a flourishing sloth sanctuary: So far, 15 furry, three-toed creatures have moved right in, enjoying the care of an on-site naturalist…

Alexander McQueen What makes Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen such a bastion of creativity? It begins with her vast web of influences, most with origins in the United Kingdom—the flora in Kew’s Royal Botanic Gardens; the West Dorset–born paleontologist Mary Anning; shabby old English country houses—and ends with her tailoring, which flits from militaristic rigor to breathless romanticism. Models Ugbad Abdi, Indira Scott, and Abby Champion all wear Alexander McQueen. Hair, Mustafa Yanaz; makeup, Romy Soleimani. Fashion Editor: Jorden Bickham.…

Dries Van Noten Dries Van Noten’s spring collection—a surprise collaboration with the designer Christian Lacroix—represented some of the best that fashion has to offer: euphoric beauty, honest-to-goodness wearability, and a merging of extraordinary (and extraordinarily different) points of view. “It was a very open process,” Van Noten says. “We appreciated each other’s creativity.” Models Ellen Rosa, Vinten, Forrest, Eniola Abioro, and Cara Taylor all wear Dries Van Noten. Hair, Mustafa Yanaz; makeup, Petros Petrohilos. Details, see In This Issue. Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman.…

Although Cardi B could never be accused of mincing words, it’s hard to imagine a Twitter rant as frank on the subject of fame and its discontents as her video for “Press,” the tense, defiant track she released in the spring of this year. In it, a steamy ménage à trois culminates in a gunshot, which in turn gives way to a defiantly glamorous perp walk, a police interrogation complicated by very high heels, a trial that ends in a bloodbath, and, for good measure, a prison-cell toilet-bowl drowning. “Press, press, press, press, press / Cardi don’t need more press,” she raps over a frantic beat.“Walk in, bulletproof vest…. Murder scene, Cardi made a mess.” She’s the antihero of this ambivalent revenge fantasy; as the bodies pile up, her tearful…

Art is terrible as a quick responder to circumstance,” Rashid Johnson tells me when I visit him in late July at his country home on the East End of Long Island. The shingle-style house is set on five acres of wooded land, at a safe distance from the nonstop cocktail parties of the Hamptons. Johnson, still limping from a fractured cuboid bone in one foot, incurred while he played soccer three months ago with his young son, Julius, shows me into the all-in-one kitchen-living-dining room. The house is expansive and relatively new, and the furniture is as laid-back as Johnson, who made the 20-foot-long walnut dining table and the benches we’re sitting on. “After the Trump election, people kept saying, ‘This is going to be a great time for art,’…

It was a Monday afternoon when day turned into night in the city of São Paulo. I was visiting an expensive nursery school for my 13-month-old daughter, trying to look remotely worthy of such a sophisticated institution. Although it was not supposed to rain that day, the sky suddenly disappeared behind a dense layer of low, heavy clouds. A two-year-old boy stepped out of his classroom, rubbed his eyes, and looked inquisitively at the principal, who said, “No, it isn’t night yet, dear, and your father’s not here to pick you up. Go back inside.” Later that day, meteorologists struggled to explain the midday darkness. They eventually blamed low-lying clouds from a cold front combined with smoke from the fires in the Amazon rain forest, thousands of miles away. Many…

In late October, Nicolas Ghesquière posted an Instagram image of Qiyana, a star of the multiplayer online battle-arena game League of Legends, in a limited edition Louis Vuitton “prestige skin.” The Vuitton artistic director of women’s collections isn’t one of the eight million people who simultaneously play the game each day—launched in 2009, it’s one of the world’s most popular esports—or one of the nearly 100 million unique viewers who watched last year’s world championship. But augmented reality—along with an abiding love of sci-fi and time travel—is absolutely a personal obsession. “It’s fascinating—the frontier where fantasy begins and reality ends,” says the designer. “Where it’s especially interesting for us is how a character that was built in the game becomes an influence on the real world, and how people will…

Balenciaga Since his appointment as artistic director of Balenciaga in 2015, Demna Gvasalia hasn’t chafed against the house’s storied archives so much as exploded them, with multiplicity—of silhouettes, proportions, and textures in the clothes and age, ethnicity, and size among models—a priority. “We cast in a new way, with different aesthetic views,” Gvasalia says. What he wants, in the end, are individuals. “Each [model] does something; each of them has the presence I’m always looking for; each of them has their own way of wearing clothes.” Models Marius Courcoul, Nadja Auermann, Sarah Batt, Tanya Katysheva, and Eliza Douglas all wear Balenciaga. Hair, Simone Mason; makeup, Miranda Joyce. Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson.…

Celine The “new” Celine, much like the label under Phoebe Philo, is a meditation on simple pleasures that will last. Since his installment at the house in 2018, Hedi Slimane has made Celine’s fundamental Frenchness his North Star: “I needed to reroot the house of Celine from within,” he says. “Its Parisian essence. I was born and raised in Paris, and there is no ambiguity as to where this historical French house, which was always around as I was growing up, stands for culturally. I am rebuilding the semantics sign by sign, season after season. It is really about foundations and consistency.” Models Selena Forrest and Olivia Vinten both wear Celine by Hedi Slimane. Hair, Mustafa Yanaz; makeup, Petros Petrohilos. Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman.…

I’m so off my tits on coffee,” Stella McCartney admits, knocking back yet another cup in the foyer of a boutique hotel a stone’s throw from her home in London’s Notting Hill. “I had four school drop offs this morning,” she explains. “I start at 6:30 a.m., and by the time I get to work [by bicycle], I feel like I’m literally done for the day. I’m a big hot sweaty mess, too,” she adds, having decided that a thick organic cotton flying suit (no pesticides used in its production) was the way to dress for a Monday morning that started grimly overcast but soon turned sultry. “It’s just so difficult being in fashion, isn’t it?” McCartney sighs. “We have to pretend to be so perfect. I’m the one that…

Greta Gerwig is standing in the ground floor apartment of a town house in the West Village, and her attention is split. The house belongs to the mother of her partner, the filmmaker Noah Baumbach, and is a space she and Baumbach use as an editing studio (a plush fox mask Baumbach used in The Meyerowitz Stories (New and Selected) surveils from a corner). On one of the desktop monitors is a freeze-frame from Little Women, Gerwig’s new film, due on Christmas Day, in which Saoirse Ronan, who plays Louisa May Alcott’s revered heroine Jo March, is mid-conversation with her sisters Amy (Florence Pugh) and Meg (Emma Watson). Gerwig is concerned about a metallic patch of sky above the tree line. “That silver—can we get rid of it?” she asks…

There is an Indian Panchatantra—an ancient fable—that tells the story of the tigers and the trees, who must learn to help one another in order to thrive in nature. When Nikita Mehta and her brother Akash were growing up in London, their grandmother would pay frequent visits from India, regaling them with these folktales while she massaged their scalps with oils. “She told us her own versions,” says Nikita, 28—and she came up with her own formulas as well, combining ingredients such as circulation-boosting castor oil, anti-inflammatory ashwagandha, and antiseptic turmeric into a coconut-oil base that lent their hair a healthy luster. “It was a moment of peace,” recalls Nikita, who was in need of similar respite a few years ago when her hair started falling out from stress. “I…

Marine Serre and Atlein For young French designers Marine Serre and Atlein’s Antonin Tron, to build a sustainable business means more than using responsibly sourced materials (although that’s certainly important, too). Also at hand is the challenge of giving their clothing lasting presence—of fighting disposability in truly every way. “I believe in a radical change in our economic system to save our world,” Tron says. “I think our generation has the opportunity to change things.” Model Imaan Hammam wears Atlein. Models Adut Akech and Carolyn Murphy both wear Marine Serre. Hair, Esther Langham; makeup, Petros Petrohilos. Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman.…

Erdem, Pyer Moss, Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, and Rokh With their respective Turkish-British, Haitian-American, English, Chinese-Irish, and Korean backgrounds, several of the industry’s most independent voices are changing how we talk about representation in fashion. At Erdem, Pyer Moss, Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, and Rokh, collections reflecting the designers’ very specific points of view only help to enrich the greater design landscape. Abdi wears Erdem. Model Adesuwa Aighewi wears Pyer Moss. Model Sara Grace Wallerstedt wears Molly Goddard. Model Jill Kortleve wears Simone Rocha. Model Vilma Sjöberg wears Rokh. Hair, Tamas Tuzes; makeup, Francelle Daly. Fashion Editor: Alex Harrington.…

It is mid-September and fall is mere moments away, but on this morning in Brooklyn it is already nearly 90 degrees, a sultry, salty breeze blowing in off New York Harbor. I arrive at DUMBO House, the members-only social club right on the East River, and step up to the lobby check-in at precisely 9 a.m. I am meeting Ashley Graham, I say to the woman at the desk, whose widening eyes are focused just past my right ear. Suddenly I sense a presence, someone standing thisclose. “I’m right here,” says Graham in a faux-husky voice, steaming the back of my neck. Punked, right out of the gate. A fashion-editor friend of mine who’s known Graham for years told me, “She’s the opposite of hard work—she’s the best girl, period,”…

ON A BREEZY FALL MORNING, the filmmaker Chinonye Chukwu walks back into the Harlem café where, in an earlier life, she spent many mornings in tears. A sliver of a space called Il Caffe Latte, the restaurant is warm and sunlit, with small tables squeezed together and a few orange stools in front of a big window. A few years ago, Chukwu lived down the street and would come in almost every day. She was reading a book about Troy Davis, a black man from Georgia who was convicted and then executed in 2011 for the murder of a police officer, despite compelling evidence of his innocence and widespread protests for the state to grant him clemency. “I remember reading in that corner and just sobbing,” Chukwu tells me as…

N0. 19 WASTE NOT, WANT NOT While Brooklyn shops like Precycle and Package Free have renounced all single use plastics, the Spur Jewelry Project creates new pieces from old baubles (#20). N0. 9 PEACE TREATY A sense of optimism powers both the latest additions to the wellness space—from the meditation app Tap In to the Cheval Blanc resort in St. Barts (#18)—and Casadei’s new collaboration with the Ethical Fashion Initiative (#11). N0. 13 JOIN THE CLUB With compositions that recall Old Masters, Kehinde Wiley’s portraits—on view this month at the Brooklyn Museum—place modern black subjects within the art-historical canon.…