Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2019 i Vogue

Karl Lagerfeld was a standard unto himself. He defined what it means to be a twenty-first-century designer, and he did it with humor and joy. It’s doubly painful to have lost him because he never fell out of love with his work or with the world, and his death marks the end of the era of craftspeople who could do it all. Karl was the living soul of fashion: restless, forward-looking, and voraciously attentive to our changing culture. He recognized earlier than most that ready-to-wear wasn’t just couture-lite but the vibrant center of the new, accomplished woman’s lifestyle. And at a time when his peers were seeking shelter in fashion houses, he branched out alone as perhaps the world’s most dazzling freelancer, designing multiple labels with electric energy. I’ve joked…

For the past two decades, fashion director Tonne Goodman has traveled the world for Vogue—from the Great Wall of China to Lima, Peru, to Madrid and (her personal highlight) Kenya’s Lake Victoria with Lupita Nyong’o. Wherever she goes, she comes armed only with her singular eye for elegance, a Dries van Noten coat over her arm, and a carry-on wheelie carefully packed with three pairs of white Levi’s 511s, black and navy Organic by John Patrick sweaters, Brooks Brothers pajamas, Louboutin’s Chelsea boots, black suede Belgian loafers, her father’s leather belts, and a handful of Charvet foulard scarves, which recall the print of her favorite smocked dress that she wore as a little girl growing up on the Upper East Side. Many of these odysseys are revealed in Point of…

The young Irish writer Sally Rooney has invented a sensibility entirely of her own: sunny and sharp, free of artifice but overflowing with wisdom and intensity. Her prose possesses an inside-out quality, with seemingly plain sentences that feel less observed than a direct transmission of their protagonists’ most private feelings. In Normal People, Rooney follows Marianne and Connell, whose tragi-romantic pas de deux starts when they are still in high school and spins into increasingly complicated configurations over the course of their university years at Trinity College Dublin. The son of the woman who cleans Marianne’s house, Connell is self-possessed and popular at the book’s outset, while Marianne is timid and troubled, with a face “like a small white flower.” The novel touches on class, politics, and power dynamics and…

The tears came as soon as I saw my reflection in the mirror. It was 2004, the afternoon of my senior prom, and against my better seventeen-year-old judgment, I had accepted my first full-face makeover. But instead of undergoing a chic transformation, I wound up looking like a clown. A clown with conspicuously pale, cakey skin. I burst out of the room and sprinted the entire half-mile home, disappointed to have my prom-night dreams dashed and my fears about makeup in general confirmed: It was not for girls who looked like me. It would be almost a full decade before any foundation touched my skin again. I have a long-running group chat, home to a range of skin tones, that is full of similar stories. One friend recalls an almost-identical…

At the SAG Awards for BlacKkKlansman, Laura Harrier stepped out in a gown that hearkened back to couture’s golden age and proved that, at least fashionwise, nothing is beyond her range (in the film, Harrier also pulls off 1970s swagger with aplomb). Designed by Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson, the dress’s organza sleeves fall nowhere near the shoulders but into pufflike pools of fabric at the elbows. With film history proffering an abundance of inspiration, Anderson narrowed his muses down to Catherine Deneuve and Marilyn Monroe. No wonder Harrier looks so divine.…

Inside Alex Israel’s Mid-City studio in Los Angeles—a former furniture warehouse that houses the original American Idol sign, which the pop artist rescued from Hollywood-backlot obsolescence—whitewashed walls showcase new work. But rather than discuss his recognizable Self-Portraits series, acrylic and bondo representations of his facial features (an aquiline nose, short sideburns), or Freeway sunglasses, the art project–turned–eyewear brand that Israel launched in 2010, the 36-year-old is focused on another recent undertaking. He is displaying a small, Louis Vuitton–monogrammed flaconnier, emblazoned on both sides with screen prints of his pieces. “And then you open it …” he says, presenting the three colorful perfume bottles inside. The storied brand’s leather accessories have been reimagined by Yayoi Kusama, Jeff Koons, and the late Stephen Sprouse. But collaborating with someone like Israel is a…

Anyone who has ever gazed at a Rothko painting—or watched a pink sunset on a summer night—knows that color can be healing. The New York–based designer Tanya Taylor is putting that idea to good use in her new partnership with Memorial Sloan Kettering hospital. A painter since her youth, Taylor has designed head scarves featuring her brushstrokes, which will be given to women on the first day of their chemotherapy treatments. The partnership came about when a friend of Taylor’s was diagnosed with breast cancer and lost her waist-length locks. Inspired by a vintage Norma Kamali wrap, Taylor—a 2014 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist who had already taught color-therapy painting classes for the hospital and designed curtains for its exam rooms—conjured up chic scarves to “bring color and confidence to the…

Table of contents: 30: On Murphy: Sleeveless sweater ($1,500) and skirt ($2,200); Calvin Klein, NYC. Alexander McQueen boots, $1,390; alexandermcqueen.com. On O’Donnell: Jacket ($6,900) and bag ($4,600); select Chanel stores. Dolce & Gabbana blouse, $1,245; select Dolce & Gabbana stores. On Garrison: Jacket ($7,350), skirt ($4,600), and bag ($6,300); select Chanel stores. Salvatore Ferragamo blouse, $960; Salvatore Ferragamo stores. Mizuki earrings, $2,800; Bergdorf Goodman. Gucci boots, $2,300; gucci.com. Manicure, Yuko Tsuchihashi. Tailor, Hailey Desjardins at Stitched. Cover look: 30: Front cover: On Bae: Dress, $5,795; select Dolce & Gabbana stores. On Johansson: Dress, $2,690; Marni stores. On Padukone: Dress, $6,490; Oscar de la Renta stores. On all: Flowers in hair from Michael George Flowers; michaelgeorgeflowers.com. Inside cover: On Seydoux: Top and pants, priced upon request; select Louis Vuitton stores. On…

WHILE WE WERE FINISHING this issue, there was still talk in Congress and from the White House of building a wall along our southern border—a contentious (and, quite frankly, offensive) cause that’s already prompted so much suffering and hardship thanks to the longest government shutdown in American history. Even beyond the political implications of such a thing, though, is the cultural impact: Why should we only gaze inward, when to look outward is always so much more exciting and enriching? Walls—or, more precisely, the absence of them—are what inspired April’s Vogue. At a time when our leaders seem to be trying to close us off from everyone and everything else, we wanted to celebrate globalism through the prisms of fashion and culture. Quite recently our latest digital platform, VogueWorld, did…

Navigating the overcrowded CBD market can be stressful—the opposite of the buzzy ingredient’s reputation for relaxation. There were the legal uncertainties (lauded for its pain-relieving and mind-easing abilities, the nonpsychoactive cannabis extract was only recently permitted in skin salves and ingestible tonics if it is derived from hemp); the physical unknowns (CBD doesn’t have universal dosage guidelines, “which is why you need to look beyond the glamorous packaging and carefully read the label,” cautions Jeanette Jacknin, M.D., a San Diego–based board-certified dermatologist with a focus on holistic and CBD cosmeceuticals); and the fact that seemingly everyone is trying to break into the soon-to-be $22 billion business. Luxury-brand strategist Anthony Saniger launched StandardDose.com earlier this year to sift through the clutter. The site’s edit of CBD-based beauty and wellness aids is…

There aren’t many people who can make you roar with laughter while they endure chemotherapy. But that was my aunt Maya—even visiting her during her treatment, I never felt down. I was too busy giggling and gossiping. She was a confidante, someone I could talk to about my life, boy troubles, things I would never have shared with my mother. And I was not the only one who sought her out. A continual procession of friends and family came to see her. Her strength seemed indomitable, and so it was a cruel blow to lose her at the age of 60, after a hard-fought, six-year battle with cancer. As my mother’s older sister, she was the connecting force in our family: our glue, the center around which all of us…

One evening last summer, I was seated at the Brooklyn hair salon where I spend so much of my waking life. As my scalp was being slathered in a color formula best described as deep espresso with tones of roasted hazelnut, I watched a local jewelry designer settle into the station across from mine. “The regular touch-up?” her colorist asked. “Actually,” she replied tentatively, “I’m ready to grow in my grays.” I cast my eyes away from the mirror, embarrassed to be privy to so intimate an exchange. A few months later, I scrolled past an image of Jocelyne Beaudoin on designer Rachel Comey’s feed and started to rethink my every-five-weeks habit. The 60-year-old prop stylist and interior decorator, who had recently walked Comey’s spring show, brandished silver-wheat curls that…

If you are what you eat, then Sakara founders Danielle Duboise and Whitney Tingle are just as double tap–worthy as their Instagram-approved nutrition program. Raised in Sedona, Arizona, the childhood friends have hair so healthy and complexions so clear, it’s easy to be evangelized by their Manhattan-based meal-delivery service, which launched in 2011 to commodify the nourishing benefits of a no–refined sugar, dairy-free, vegetarian diet. “We wanted to help people understand that eating really well doesn’t have to be torturous,” explains Duboise, 32, whose complicated relationship with food led her to study nutrition science before teaming up with Tingle, 33, a Wall Street alum. As buzz around their colorful daily menus—created in consultation with a science and advisory board that includes renowned functional medicine doctor Robin Berzin, M.D.—quickly spread, so…

The April box features: Vita Liberata Phenomenal Tan Infused Towels (2 pack), Luxie 231 Small Tapered Blending Eyeshadow Brush (full size), Natasha Denona Eye Shadow (full size), Anastasia Liquid Lipstick in Pure Hollywood (full size), Briogeo Farewell Frizz™ Rosarco Milk Leave-In Conditioning Spray or Farewell Frizz™ Blow Dry Perfection & Heat Protectant Creme, Laura Geller INKcredible Gel Liner (full size, shades may vary). Additional products may vary. Plus, all new members will receive a Mally Eyeshadow Stick (full size) valued at $25.…

I HAVE NEVER been much into pink. When I was a girl, my mother avoided the color—turned off by the cliché of girls in pink and boys in blue. (Perhaps in some kind of subconscious revolt, when my younger twin brothers were born, she lacquered just one of their fingernails pink to keep herself from mixing them up.) My father, however, thinking he was doing something nice for his only daughter, painted my childhood bedroom a lovely, cool pink—Millennial, we’d call it now—and found a light-switch dimmer to match. I have no recollection of enjoying this color, only spending the next twelve years hating it. To another teenager, pink might have seemed a cheerful contrast to Seattle’s dreary weather, but I was not looking for cheer. I was looking for…

TARON EGERTON KEEPS HIS cap on throughout dinner at White City House. It’s not that he’s worried he’ll be “spotted”—this West London outpost of Soho House attracts a crowd that would look the other way if the pope were propping up the bar. The 29-year-old actor is simply suffering the aftereffects of a “terrible” haircut; to play Elton John in the forthcoming biopic Rocketman, he had his hair thinned and his hairline raised. It’s a forgivable sliver of vanity from an actor who has spent much of his professional life running away from his good looks. Egerton’s 2015 breakthrough role in the action flick Kingsman: The Secret Service placed him—jawline first—on the conveyor belt of conventionally attractive Hollywood heroes. Almost immediately, he wanted off. “It’s more fun to play things…

ON A WARM SATURDAY evening in Boca Raton, Naomi Osaka sits back in her chair on the deck of a fish restaurant and gently sparkles. She’s wearing a glittering silver sweatshirt with long gray ribbons dangling from the sleeves, bought at a boutique in Tokyo. Osaka was born in Japan and represents the country as a tennis player, but she lives here in Florida, and her sense of style lands somewhere between the two places—“a bit too wild for America, but too tame for Japan,” as she describes it before noting that in Tokyo, women often seem dressed for a movie premiere. “I find that really cool,” Osaka says. She’s drawn to Japanese designers, like Comme des Garçons, with edgy, sculptural sensibilities. Tonight, though, she’s adapted to local customs and…

Hermès sandal, $1,050 When—despite one’s thoughts, prayers, wishes, plans, and sartorial dreams—winter’s chills have still not lifted come springtime, a hybrid is your best mode of practical footwear. Inspired by classical-era Spartan warriors, this Hermès shoe is full of dichotomies: A sporty rubber layer coats a traditional, stacked leather sole; a technical mesh textile is bonded with a smooth-as-honey calf leather. Is it a sandal? A bootie? Frankly, it’s Greek to us—we’re just in love with the way it looks and feels.…