Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2019 i Vogue

THIS MONTH WE CELEBRATE everything that defines the West Coast today, from fashion to food, beauty to art, politics to wellness, interior design to sustainability. It’s the first time that an entire issue of Vogue has been devoted to just one place, but as it’s become more and more apparent that all the world’s highways lead back to the Golden State—whether one focuses on the tech giants (Uber, Airbnb) that have sprung up in the last decade, irrevocably transforming our lives, or on Hollywood’s continuing dominance as the global entertainment hub—it feels absolutely right for the times. Of course, the current news cycle that’s spinning as I write this letter—the continuing aftermath of the horrific recent forest fires and their heartbreaking impact on towns and communities; the lightning-rod issues of…

DESIGN In 2012, fed up with the frequent and unproductive tire-burning protests that blocked roads and polluted the air in the Lebanese capital, Beiruti textile house Bokja staged their own form of civil disobedience. They unleashed a load of tires, sheathed in their elaborately embroidered fabrics, throughout the streets. It was a photogenic stunt that echoed the notes of activism subtly woven throughout all of Bokja’s collections. Take a seemingly simple chair that teems with mimosas and graceful sea horses; it’s a quiet celebration of gender equality, as the sea horse is one of a few species in which the male can be impregnated. Named after the traditional Middle Eastern patchwork textiles used to wrap a bride’s dowry, Bokja (pronounced “bubjeh”) was founded almost 20 years ago by Huda Baroudi…

BEAUTY As 2019 gets into full swing, and we solidify what is “so last year,” an unlikely makeup stalwart is getting the wrong kind of traction: mascara. With the proliferation of professional services and extension salons offering semipermanent solutions to a full-on flutter, the go- to desert-island essential—with its lengthening, thickening, inky finish—is being discussed in analog terms. But not everyone is so quick to send these tubes the way of the Walkman. “Like a fierce red lipstick, mascara is never going away,” says legendary makeup artist Pat McGrath, who just released her highly anticipated FetishEyes iteration—Pat McGrath Labs’first attempt at the notoriously difficult-to-formulate product. McGrath’s “major” twist? A jet-black lacquer that delivers both natural definition and runway-caliber drama, results she once layered different products to achieve. Similar innovation is…

My days are normally 16 hours and my foundation and lipstick stayed put.—SARA R., CALIFORNIA My foundation stayed put all day long and the lipstick lasted hours without needing to be reapplied. plied.—ASHLEY L., OHIO Both of these products stay put, literally! Even after drinking, rubbing my face, hugs, kisses, etc., my makeup stayed!—COURTNEY G., MAINE Both products gave a natural finish and lasted throughout my long workdays plus the gym!—AMBER O., CALIFORNIA I received compliments on my makeup even after hours of wearing the foundation and lipstick.—ANGELIQUE S., NEW YORK I was completely shocked at the longevity of these products.—STEPHANIE G., NEW YORK Source: Condé Nast Communities (Allure, BRIDES, Glamour, SELF), December 2018; a product trial was conducted among 300 participants, each of whom received a complimentary foundation and…

HEALTH Four rounds filet mignon; 1 lb. pork sausage, in casing; loaf of sourdough, unsliced; 1 lb. butter, pasture-fed, 84% butterfat. As I gather the items on my shopping list, I try not to meet the eyes of the virtuous women in spandex shopping around me. Whatever prejudices one may hold against the food prescribed by a wellness regimen tweely called the Jane Austen Diet—the title of author Bryan Kozlowski’s clever new manifesto (Turner)—no other plan so well suits those of us who can’t abide deprivation. “It’s really fun,” Kozlowski assures me of the protocol he’s devised by reading between the lines of Austen’s six timeless novels and personal letters, throwing it way back to the early 1800s in search of a simpler, more sensible approach to feeling and looking…

ART When Frida Kahlo—whose sui generis work André Breton described as “a ribbon around a bomb”—died in 1954, her widower, Diego Rivera, instructed that her most personal objects were to be locked up in a bathroom in their Mexico City home. It was not until 2004 that the chambers at the artists’ fabled Casa Azul were finally reopened, revealing a treasury of some 6,500 photographs and 300 well-preserved pieces of clothing. Many of these objects will travel for the first time to the United States—“Gringolandia” to the Communist artist—and will appear in the Brooklyn Museum’s “Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving,” organized by curators Catherine Morris and Lisa Small as an expansion of a profoundly moving exhibition conceived by Circe Henestrosa and Claire Wilcox for London’s Victoria and Albert Museum…

IT’S BEEN SAID THAT A MAN RISKS HIS MARRIAGE by coming home late—and may put it in even greater jeopardy by coming home early. Though he turns 25 this month, Justin Bieber believes that his late nights and their ruthlessly documented excesses are behind him. In their place, at this moment, the uncounted, uncertain hours of marriage stretch out, a red carpet hung like a tightrope. It’s just before Christmas, and white, tinseled trees festoon the lobby of the hotel where for years Bieber has lived when he is in Los Angeles. His suite is not quite in keeping with the holiday spirit, piled instead with the giant suitcases that are hardly worth unpacking only to pack again, and there is nothing much to eat, except for potato chips and…

BY THE TIME YOU’RE READING THIS, Eric Garcetti, the two-term mayor of Los Angeles, has likely announced whether he will run for president, but when we meet in late December, he is still, at least officially, undecided. “I would say I’m more in and more out than I’ve ever been—simultaneously,” he says. “Which is, I think, till the day that I decide, an honest place to be.” Garcetti, 48, has just wedged his basketball-tall frame beneath a table at a coffee shop in Larchmont, just north of his residence at the Getty House, the century-old Tudor mansion that he and his wife, fellow Rhodes scholar Amy Wakeland, have been redecorating since 2013. “We’ll have it done by the time we leave,” he jokes. That will be in 2022. Or sooner,…

WHEN I MEET THE INTERIOR DESIGNER Sally Breer, at the offices of her firm, ETC. etera, she can’t decide whether iridescent curtains will be too much for the Firehouse Hotel, a nine-room boutique hotel opening this year in the burgeoning Los Angeles Arts District. Breer, 30, has already shown me plenty of other lush, maximalist touches: crushed-velvet sofas, striped velvet headboards, rainbow breakfast trays, and heritage millwork referencing the building’s history as a 1920s fire station and later, according to Breer, an eccentric Italian woman’s boarding house. “Someone indulged her and let her do these rooms this way,” she explains, adding that the woman’s daughter also shaped the decor. “She added this little layer of disco and funk, and you’ve got a little punk-rock.” It turns out that only the…

“TO LOOK INTO SUCH a pool is to behold a dark forest,” I remark to the stranger sitting next to me on the plane. I am actually reading aloud from Rachel Carson’s The Edge of the Sea. But it seems a reasonable response to his question about why I’m flying across the country, to California, to forage for seaweed. Plus, the other reasons are mostly boring. An old friend, Iso Rabins, runs a San Francisco–based company called ForageSF, and he has repeatedly invited me to seaweed hunt with him. And Maine, where you can also get good seaweed, is frigid. In Sonoma, on the other hand, it is never truly cold. It is only ever rakishly brisk. Less boring are the innumerable arguments to stop what you’re doing right now…

MAXIMUM EFFECT KNC Beauty founder Kristen Noel Crawley considers her Pasadena home a “sanctuary”—so when guests come to call, only the boldest and most decadent gestures will do. “I like to hire a chef to cook so that I can enjoy my guests without having to worry about feeding everyone,” she says. For decor, a mix of vintage and modern designer pieces keeps things fun, yet refined; luxurious, “but with freshness.” IN GOOD SPIRITS She may divide her time between the coasts, but model and vintner Michele Ouellet is a dyed-in-the-wool California girl. As a hostess, the Lorenza Rosé cofounder takes it easy, opting for loose silhouettes and bare feet at her places in Napa and Venice. “My time here is always restorative,” she says. “I love to look up…

There was a precise moment this season when headbands, once the domain of demure schoolgirls, were reborn: Miuccia Prada sent an array of puffed-up pieces in shades of sherbet satin onto her spring runway, and the humble hair accessory quickly earned It status. At Simone Rocha, models wore not one but two crystalline iterations. “A double headband is quite fun,” says hairstylist Rudi Lewis, who layered the extravagant embellishments shown here. It’s just one unexpected styling device for effectively avoiding “supercute” territory, he continues. Another? Applying a few spritzes of a texturizer, such as Mr. Smith’s Sea Salt Spray, before sweeping the hairline with a kabuki brush for a “soft and undone feel.”…

FRAGRANCE When Baptiste Bouygues was looking for a partner for his first fragrance venture, he did something a lot of us would run away from, screaming: The 30-year-old called his mother. “I went to see Maman, and I told her I had this creative dream,” Bouygues explains, recalling how he sold Marie-Lise Jonak on the big idea: What if they could build a luxury perfume maison on fine craftsmanship and sustainable production practices, a line that relied solely on pure, unadulterated materials? And what if they offered this olfactory triumph in heart breakingly beautiful recycled packaging, worthy of a museum vitrine? If the preoccupation with purity seems a particularly millennial concern—“There is something about nature that touches your soul,” Bouygues tells me—his ridiculously youthful-looking Maman totally gets it as well.…

BEAUTY “We are our choices,” Jean-Paul Sartre is often credited as saying, which is remarkable considering Sartre never went on a three-day luxury cruise to the Bahamas. Cruising (a verb that means something entirely different on land than it does at sea) has long been about providing infinite offerings disguised as choices—restaurants, fine-jewelry stores, game nights, origami classes—to distract from the one choice you entered into willingly: to board a cruise ship in the first place. Although I had read and reread David Foster Wallace’s hammer-dropping 1996 essay on “the (nearly lethal) comforts of a luxury cruise,” the idea of relaxing in captivity still piqued my interest. After a year of back-to-back work trips, there was something appealing about powering down my brain. No maps, no rental cars, no guilt-inducing…

Long before Saoirse Ronan (right) debuted this gossamer gown, designer Wes Gordon mined histories near and far for inspiration. The high neck smacks of the sixteenth century’s quest for elongated necks via the ruff, the hand-down smocking nods to shirring details à la Eastern European folk blouses, and its high-watt glamour was inspired by sepia-tinged photographs of Mrs. Herrera herself. The elements, as Gordon explains, “give historical romance to a modern dress.” It’s perfectly suited to Ronan—who, as it happens, recently took a turn as Mary Queen of Scots.…

HAMISH FILES At the age of six, I was already an habitué of the Victoria and Albert Museum’s Costume Court. I walked around in wide-eyed wonder trying to imagine how Victorian gentlemen could get anywhere near a woman marooned in full skirts buttressed by crinolines, or how Regency ladies could survive England’s cold while dressed in filmy muslin nightgowns cut on Ancient Roman lines. I spent hours coloring in the paper dolls from the museum’s shop and imagining the exact clothing that the characters in Jean Plaidy’s historical novels would be wearing. Family holidays were soon subsumed to visiting storied English country houses and museums that cradled evocative costumes in their converted stable blocks and state bedrooms. All the while, I was collecting whatever I could afford with the pocket…

BEAUTY “Primers are for when I can’t be in control,” says makeup artist Hung Vanngo, who swears by the smoothing skin-prep to keep makeup in place on the red carpet for clients such as Selena Gomez and Emily Ratajkowski. That professional pedigree is also why I have always avoided the now-ubiquitous products; without the flashbulbs—or the bright lights of a YouTube tutorial—who needs the extra step? But the beauty of a new class of “smart” primers, says New York–based dermatologist Ellen Marmur, M.D., is that they’re packed with powerhouse ingredients, such as the moisturizing hemp-derived cannabis in Milk Makeup’s Hydro Grip Primer (out this month), or the brightening banana powder and vitamin C in the latest from Scandinavian skin guru Ole Henriksen. Potent enough to replace certain daytime serums, these…

THOMAS DE KLUYVER Teenage rave parties in Australia are an unlikely place to seed a career, admits de Kluyver, flashing back to the early 2000s. “I was doing makeup on all my friends, just with neon paints, very naive,” he says, “but it had a good personality to it.” To those familiar with the London-based makeup artist’s work, that freewheeling start sounds right. The 33-year-old is behind a spate of coolly adventurous looks on recent runways, from clashing eye shadows to kaleidoscopic glitters. For spring at Richard Quinn—the upstart designer hailed by the queen herself—de Kluyver paired supermodel polish (waterline kohl, metallic shimmer) with eerily foggy contact lenses, as if redefining beauty in the eye of the beheld. For all his hands-on beginnings, de Kluyver has long found inspiration on…

FASHION “I am always on the lookout for something that touches me in a special way,” says Cherine Magrabi Tayeb, showing off her spectacular flat overlooking the Arc de Triomphe and describing 13BC, her new, deeply personal line of minaudières rendered in gold plate and enamel. 13BC is a play on words—it references the era when the technique of enameling was invented, and it also means “13 by Cherine,” since each collection will feature thirteen examples, with images culled from Magrabi’s own bright paintings. If the sensibility is cheerful (her palette is almost Technicolor), the technique is deadly serious, with each leather-lined rectangular reticule packaged like a jewel meant to be treasured and handed down—the furthest thing from throwaway fashion. Magrabi has just arrived in Paris from Beirut, where she…

Mini IVF Often half the price of a regular cycle of IVF, which can start at $15,000, this big-in-Japan treatment is for women willing to have fewer eggs retrieved per cycle. Slightly more time-consuming but gentler on the body, Mini-IVF requires less medication and has far fewer side effects (nausea, headaches, mood swings).“It has dramatically transformed the landscape of how we practice medicine at our center,” says Andy Huang, M.D., noting that studies are now showing that more eggs aren’t necessarily better for success rates. $5,750 and up. ZyMōt Sperm Separator Device Men are accountable for one-third of infertility cases, and their genetic material often faces further complications in labs due to centrifugation, or spinning, a technique that isolates the healthiest sperm but in so doing can cause DNA damage…

How to be Miss Dior? Be graceful-like Pina Bausch, Martha Graham, and Isadora Duncan, three women whose ineffable elegance inspired designer Maria Grazia Chiuri in Dior’s latest collection. Or perhaps like a butterfly: Prints of the delicate creatures appeared on floaty skirts that seemed to take flight with each step-as well as here, where adroit craftsmen transformed the classic Lady Dior bag into a mesmerizing, color-rich confection. Complex silk-thread embroideries virtualy dance to create the dazzling silhouette of the winged bug. One could call it a beguiling metamorphosis.…

FASHION “What I really like is to make things,” says Bottega Veneta’s new creative director, Daniel Lee. “From a very young age, I spent my spare time knitting and making any other kind of craft.” Lee, 33, was raised in Bradford in Yorkshire, the northern English county famed for its rolling landscape and doughty, no-nonsense citizens. By the age of eighteen, though, he was intrigued by fashion, feeding his appetite with issues of Vogue and reports on Alexander McQueen’s and John Galliano’s epic shows on fashion television—all he had access to until he moved to London later that year. “Now I try and play catch-up with culture,” he says. Lee was an academic student, and his parents (his father is a mechanic, his mother a homemaker) “were quite surprised that…

THEATER “A lot of my friendships quickly become codependent,” the playwright Jeremy O. Harris tells me over cucumber sodas at a Tribeca bar. “Drynuary,” he explains—though he’s allowing himself a celebratory toast when his Off-Broadway hit, Slave Play, closes later in the month after a sold-out, packed-house run. “With me it’s either zero or 100.” The 29-year-old is telling me about the eighteen months he spent hotel-hopping with the indie pop duo Florence and the Machine earlier in his 20s, more professional friend than groupie to the band’s keyboardist, Isabella Summers, but it’s an all-in attitude that extends to his work as well. The project currently consuming Harris—when he’s not focused on his course work at the Yale School of Drama, where he’s currently finishing up his final semester—is Daddy,…

To cruise or not to cruise? If you’re ready to set sail—and bask in the hydrotherapy circuit—here are the basics for living your best #boatlife. Where to Go Next month, the Edge heads to the Western Caribbean for 7 nights, followed by a 15-night transatlantic trip. May brings 10 nights around the Iberian Peninsula, then 11 to the Amalfi Coast and Greece, with summer cruises in the Mediterranean. Visit celebritycruises.com/edge for more route information. What It Costs Celebrity Edge Caribbean cruises in November and December start at $1,149 per person; a late-spring peak-season trip to the Amalfi Coast and Greece starts at $5,039. What to Book The Ocean Spa Wave massage, on a swishing water bed, is an on-theme entry point to total relaxation at sea ($259 for 75 minutes),…

With no job and only 119 Instagram followers to her name, 29-year-old June Bloom hops into a chauffeured SUV bound for the country compound of her former boss, late-night comedy legend Hugo Best in Erin Somers’s zippy debut Stay Up with Hugo Best (Scribner). June’s quick wit keeps the banter flowing over a bizarre Memorial Day weekend during which the larger-than-life figure reconciles himself to the cancellation of his show. The millennial and the magnetic celebrity are surprisingly well suited, two sardonic souls who find themselves connecting. “A crazed billionaire lurked in all of us, ready to have the lawn mowed on the hour,” June realizes midway through her stay. The ending doesn’t quite live up to the book’s magnificent opening, but it’s a devilishly fun ride along the way.…

Spring is in the air, and what better way to revitalize than with pink and peach hues reminiscent of an English garden in bloom? Curate your spring essentials with ambrosial accents head to toe—from Pantene Pro-V Rose Water Shampoo Soothing Moisture Wash and Conditioner Restoring Moisture Milk, both using a sulfate-free formula and packed with pro-vitamin B5, rose water, and antioxidants to nourish hair, right down to pink velvet heels as plush as a petal.…

MOVIES It’s a sad reality that as some women get older, they can feel less visible in the world—particularly in the movies. The protagonist of Sebastián Lelio’s Gloria Bell is a bracing exception. Set in L.A., this finely etched character study stars Julianne Moore as the titular heroine, a 50-something divorcée who spends her days working in an insurance office and her nights at the disco looking for love. She thinks she may have found it in Arnold (John Turturro), who woos her with an ardor that’s warm if a tad needy. In remaking his 2013 Chilean film, Lelio (who won last year’s Best Foreign Language Film Oscar for A Fantastic Woman) pays loving attention to the details of Gloria’s life and absolutely nails the big scenes. Tender but unsentimental,…

REMEMBRANCE “Penn once said he spent more time with me than anybody in his life, and he didn’t say it with joy, either.” Those are the words of Babs Simpson, fashion editor at Vogue from 1947 to 1972. By the time I became her assistant—late in her career—she had already collaborated with Irving Penn on scores of his most iconic photographs from the fifties and sixties, not to mention other memorable shoots with William Klein, Erwin Blumenfeld, and Clifford Coffin. She had dressed Marilyn Monroe for “The Last Sitting” with Bert Stern, and had traveled through Ireland with Richard Avedon when he photographed Anjelica Huston. I knew none of this when she interviewed me. I had just graduated from Syracuse University and had been working in London as an assistant…

WHEN ELISABETH MOSS WAS SIX, she appeared in a miniseries called Lucky Chances, playing Sandra Bullock’s daughter. “I had to find her dead in the pool,” Moss says. “And I was hooked. I was like, ‘I love this!’ I took it as seriously at that age as I do now.” She was also serious about ballet, and, growing up in Los Angeles’s Laurel Canyon, she balanced the two—practicing at the barre after school and auditioning for commercials and made-for-TV movies. She considers herself lucky, in hindsight, that the big break never came. “I never got a WB show,” she says. “Remember WB? Before it was CW? I never got one.” Eventually she was cast as the president’s daughter on The West Wing, but playing at the margins of Hollywood all…

When I was in high school in the Pennsylvania suburbs in the early 2000s, there was a teenage girl who I didn’t know but always noticed. She was Latina—more visibly than me, the daughter of a white mother and biracial, half-Cuban father—in a way I envied. She kept her curly hair large and gelled to glossiness. She wore flannel tops and a gold nameplate necklace and bordered her maroon lipstick with brown-black liner, a look that I’d never seen before. I didn’t have much fashion sense, and what I did have was shaped by my Midwestern mother, who had always told me to match liner and lipstick, even though I wore neither. When I looked at my classmate, I felt both distance and awe. I watched her with rapt attention,…

Table of contents: 66: On Ceretti: Marni dress ($1,950) and bra ($350); Marni stores. Chloé bracelet, $595; similar styles at Chloé stores. Brinker & Eliza necklace, worn as belt, $318; brinkerandeliza.com. Paco Rabanne sandals, price upon request; pacorabanne.com. On male model: HUFWorldwide T-shirt, $38; hufworldwide.com. 124: Dress, $11,700; fendi.com. Earrings, $3,960; pomellato.com. Tailor, Susie’s Custom Design. Cover look: 124: On Justin: Shorts, $790; Dior Men stores. On Hailey: Dress, price upon request; select Prada stores. Earring, price upon request for pair; tiffany.com. Manicure, Emi Kudo for Dior Vernis. Tailor, Susie’s Custom Design. Editor’s letter: 140: On Ward: Marni dress, $2,590; Marni stores. Maison Margiela boots, $1,295; Maison Margiela, NYC. On Ratajkowski: Julien Macdonald minidress, $15,991; Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection bangles, priced upon request; caroletanenbaum.com. Michael Kors Collection…