Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2016 i Vogue

This fall, two of Vogue’s longest-serving editors publish collections of their favorite work: Grace Coddington with Grace: The American Vogue Years (“Amazing Grace,” page 613) and Phyllis Posnick with Stoppers: Photographs from My Life at Vogue. When Grace and Phyllis showed me early versions of their books, I was filled with both a sense of wonder at their talents and a great deal of gratitude that these two ladies have brought their brilliant visions to this magazine for so long. This issue, we showcase their picturemaking abilities again: Grace with the joyful romanticism she does so well (“New Romantics,” page 708), Goodman, who styled cover girl Kendall Jenner (“The Real Deal,” page 672). You’ll have seen Kendall in our pages before, of course, but with this sitting, Tonne, along with…

You might think, staring up at the plaster roses outlining the cornices in Simone Rocha’s London terrace house, that this whimsical trim was installed by a Victorian lady with a surfeit of imagination. In fact the blossoms, which Rocha calls “broken flowers,” were commissioned by the fashion designer herself, from a moldmaker in Essex. Like every other detail in this delightful family home, the roses are a product of Rocha’s rich imagination. She purchased the nineteenth-century house in 2014: “It’s the first place I’ve ever owned,” she says proudly. And though it was admittedly a wreck—whatever vintage charm the space might once have possessed was swept aside by decades of plastic—it had a number of selling points: It was located in the historic De Beauvoir Town neighborhood, a happy bike…

Antonin Tron’s debut Atlein collection of jersey dresses and separates—which is as thoughtful, pragmatic, and good-looking as the designer himself—garnered this year’s prestigious ANDAM fashion award for best first collection. There are echoes of early-eighties Azzedine Alaïa— and of Jean Muir, the London-based designer who emerged in the swinging sixties with flattering, restrained clothes that earned her an enviable roster of taste-making customers for four decades. Largely eschewing sketches to drape his pieces on a stand, Tron— who presented in his own charmingly Balzacian fourth-floor walk-up in Paris’s multicultural Eleventh Arrondissement—designs liquid clothes with visual interest on all sides. “There’s a sensuality I find in sportswear that I think is nourishing,” says Tron, 32, an enthusiastic surfer and boxer, who was studying modern literature when he first began to notice…

Petite Meller’s career as a singer-songwriter began in 2012, when she uploaded to YouTube a music video made with the help of people whom she’d met online. The song, “NYC Time,” was a dreamy, bouncy anthem of self-realization. The video centered on the image of Meller—waiflike, French, and dressed in sixties beachwear—being carried tenderly by a black man in a brown jacket and hoodie. Soon after it went up, a British manager opened his browser to figure out the time difference across the Atlantic. “He Googled the words NYC time, and he found the video. He called me and said, ‘Please come to London,’ and I’m like, ‘No! I want to be in the U.S.!’ ” Meller recalls. “But here I am in London, with a new album.” That album,…

If you’ve ever wondered what a collision of Gio Ponti, the Doris Day film Please Don’t Eat the Daisies, and the high period of sitcom–as–fashion statement (The Mary Tyler Moore Show, Bewitched) would look like—well, wonder no more. The first collection from Fabrizio Viti, the work of the very talented yet utterly unknown shoe designer of the same name, riffs on all these and more. (What else would one expect, really, from a man whose cultural sweep ranges from early Jean-Luc Godard to early Barbie?) It’s just as well that Viti—who operates from an apartment in Paris chicly appointed with his collection of mid-century Ponti furniture—is able to produce ideas like a Kardashian produces Instagram posts. For when he isn’t focused on his own label, Viti has been occupied, for…

When’s the last time a wedding was just a single day? Increasingly, nuptials more closely resemble a three-day circus, complete with elephants and fountains of golden chocolate, with the bride and groom making their grand entrance via zip line. And, of course, there are as many photographers as there are guests, all using a hashtag for the world to follow along. When everything from your daily workout to giving birth—yes, really—is considered a shareable moment, is there still such thing as a private event? Enter the Instaban. A polite note asking guests to refrain from posting on social media, the Instaban has become a refreshingly popular alternative. “It wasn’t so much about secrecy,” says Brock Collection codesigner Laura Vassar about the Instaban at her Newport Beach wedding. “I wanted to…

Bella Hadid arrives on set casually dressed in jeans and a cropped sweater, a swath of midsection exposed to the summer weather. With curves so astonishing that one’s eyes tend to linger slightly longer than is comfortable in order to process what they are seeing, Hadid is hard to miss. In New York for only a few days, the nineteen-year-old has just flown in from Paris, where the couture season cemented her as one of the biggest models working today. Handpicked—along with such catwalk veterans as Karen Elson and Carolyn Murphy—for Atelier Versace, Hadid also closed Fendi’s Haute Fourrure Trevi Fountain extravaganza in Rome. As the last model Karl Lagerfeld sent down a runway that was elevated above the restored Baroque landmark’s pools, Hadid appeared to be literally walking on…

As humans, we all have needs—for dignity, beauty, love, work, meaning, and peace. Joy comes if and when we happen to achieve several of these things at once. Sparking that alchemy is Leila Janah’s calling. “I’m right on Lake Victoria,” Janah tells me when I reach her in Uganda, one of the outposts of her nonprofit Sama, which is dedicated to bringing work to some of the planet’s most impoverished people. The San Francisco–based tech entrepreneur already runs both Samasource, which offers employment in data services here, in Kenya, India, and Haiti for companies like Google and eBay, and Samaschool, which provides digital job training. But on this particular visit, Janah is tending to her new project: a beauty line called LXMI. Pronounced “lux-me” and named after the Hindu goddess…

There are some scents that Margaret Qualley recalls easily: eucalyptus at her father’s house in Asheville, North Carolina, and sweat in the nearby ballet studios where she used to train; Christmas trees at her childhood home in Montana, where her mother, the actress Andie MacDowell, still lives part-time; patchouli on the set of her first major film, The Nice Guys. The 21-year-old’s olfactory profile is a far cry from that of a typical American woman. But Kenzo creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon weren’t looking for typical when they cast Qualley as the face of Kenzo World, a refreshingly offbeat creation that marks the designers’ first fragrance since they joined the French brand five years ago. “We wanted a thinker, a doer,” Leon explains of the X factors that…

1 This month, Villa Lena, the artists’ colony in Tuscany, plays host to the globe-trotting Secret Yoga Club. Along with daily asanas, there will be sound therapy (vocal toning, Himalayan singing bowls) with the multidisciplinary practitioner Lani Rocillo, and farm-to-table cuisine from the property’s groves and vineyards. secretyogaclub.co.uk. 2 South Beach’s pulsing beat takes a restorative turn at The Standard Spa, Miami Beach, where vibrating crystal bowls accompany a massage for a deeper sense of mind-body balance. Upcoming events include a full-moon kundaliniyoga celebration with an immersive sound bath. standardhotels.com/miami. 3 London-based mindfulness group Fresh Perception heads to England’s verdant Lake District this month for a sound-bath retreat held at a bucolic Georgian-era farmhouse. Hungarian Szilvia Gardian will lead sessions with gongs and singing bowls, after which you can…

perhaps no more than 50 people watched Alexander Zverev clinch his second-round victory at this year’s Wimbledon. It was a misty middle Saturday, and while eventual champion Andy Murray was playing under a roof at Centre Court, rain delays had forced Zverev and his opponent, Russian veteran Mikhail Youzhny, to slog through their five-set battle over two days. Court 8 might have had a few more spectators that rainy afternoon if people had only known that this quiet nineteen-yearold is anticipated to be the biggest thing out of Germany (he’s a Hamburger) since Steffi Graf came up, long before Zverev was born. “This, if you like, is the weakest Zverev we’ll ever see,” Roger Federer said after falling to him earlier this year. “He will only get better from here.”…

it didn’t seem that special,” says Jorja Smith. “It just seemed like another song.” Smith was at home in Walsall, a gritty town in England’s West Midlands, doing coursework for her A-levels in media studies. She’d been analyzing grime videos, including the propulsive Dizzee Rascal track “Sirens.” Needing a break, she quickly composed a melody—improvising lyrics on her smartphone voice recorder about a young person’s fear of flashing police lights: “I want to turn those blue lights into strobe lights . . . maybe fairy lights.” “I went downstairs and said, ‘Mom, Dad, listen to this.’ ‘Ah, that’s good,’ they said. And that was it.” Adding a sinuous beat and a sample from “Sirens,” Smith later uploaded the track to SoundCloud, the teeming social-media platform where users around the world…

freedom was a thing that shifted as you looked at it,” thinks Cora, the motherless heroine of Colson Whitehead’s spectacular new novel, The Underground Railroad (Doubleday). An obsessed slave catcher at her heels, Cora flees north from a Georgia plantation on the Underground Railroad— in Whitehead’s Swiftian twist, a real system of makeshift tracks and tunnels beneath the Earth’s surface. Heartcracking and propulsive, Cora’s journey illuminates “the true face of America”: a network of hidden stories, with spurs to horror, detours for love, and an untold distance left to be traveled. A bottle of gin and a stolen kiss at a christening upends two families in Ann Patchett’s Commonwealth (Harper)—her most personal novel to date, in which a wayward law student makes the mistake of falling for a literary lion.…

Con tutti boni—“with all good things”—is the phrase that Little Park’s Andrew Carmellini has chosen to inscribe upon the menus of his new southern Italian–inspired venture, Leuca—his first Brooklyn restaurant—in the William Vale hotel. “Williamsburg is so different now,” says the chef, who used to spend time there for band practice in the nineties. “My goal is to be an anchor for the neighborhood for years to come.” Wood-fired dishes like romanesco with black olives and grilled orange, and views of the city from the rooftop bar, will certainly help. Meanwhile, on the Upper East Side, Majorelle is set to open in the Lowell hotel. Charles Masson, formerly of La Grenouille, has brought chef Christian Delouvrier (La Mangeoire) out of retirement to head up the French-Moroccan kitchen, while Masson will…

On a Tuesday morning in June I meet Kendall Jenner in the lobby of her high-rise in Westwood, that weird part of L.A. that seems to want to be part of a different city, like Dallas or Atlanta. The neighborhood is sandwiched between Beverly Hills and Brentwood, and for most of the Angelenos I know, it is just a dreary canyon of ugly condominiums that one must drive through to get to the groovier shores of Venice or Malibu. Kendall, who grew up in the Valley, bought a two-bedroom condo here for $1.4 million with her own money when she turned eighteen, partly as a way to announce her independence from the Kardashians of Calabasas—and her building looks nothing like the monstrosities nearby. Indeed, from a distance it tricks the…

In 2003, Nate Parker was a college athlete in the depths of Oklahoma, worried that his glory days would soon run out. He took a degree in computer science—that seemed promising—but never found his heart in it. His girlfriend dreamed about modeling, so one day he accompanied her to a tryout, for moral support. Someone there asked if he was interested in getting in front of the camera himself. As a test, he read a monologue, and—zing!— realized, with eerie certainty, that this was his vocation. On he went to L.A. When an audition for a big part came up, he typed a 100-page report about the character’s back story, to submit with his bid. He grew successful, even semi-famous, with parts in The Secret Life of Bees, Arbitrage, and…

Ten years ago, in the middle of an ugly divorce, the most banal of realizations came upon me: In order to find a path out of the mess I’d made, I needed to wrestle with the history that had shaped me. My mother, the late African-American writer, filmmaker, and activist Kathleen Collins, died of breast cancer in 1988 at age 46, when I was still a teenager, leaving me to care for my younger brother. Our parents had split when we were toddlers, and we had been raised by a single, black artist mother, vibrant yet frequently depressed, and unwavering in her commitment to her work. She had kept her illness a secret until two weeks before she died. In those first few weeks after we buried her, I filled…

Nearly a decade ago, Kate Darling bought a small but intelligent robot dinosaur that she named Yochai, after a favorite professor. Yochai could see and hear, and over time it developed a unique personality according to how it was treated. Darling, then a law student in Basel, Switzerland, with a lifelong passion for all things robotic, liked to invite friends to interact with the dinosaur, which was equipped with a tilt sensor and would begin to squirm and cry if held upside-down by its tail. “When I saw it suffering, I’d say, ‘OK, that’s enough; put it down,’ ” she recalls. “And then I’d pet it until it stopped crying. I thought, This is weird. I’m not particularly maternal. I don’t know how to care for a plant. And yet…

Alice Naylor-Leyland’s thirtieth birthday at Stibbington, her idyllic country home, was guaranteed to be fantastical even before guests discovered rabbit masks left in the guest rooms alongside a bespoke blend of Fortnum & Mason tea. Known for her passion for entertaining—and her whimsical life force—Alice regularly transforms a casual Sunday lunch into a magical mise-en-scène. What, then, would the revelries entail after six months’ planning? A birthday party, it turns out, to rival most nuptials. As guests rolled up the drive to Stibbington, the pastoral sightings began with two majestic grays loping in the early-evening sunshine, followed by a paddock of pastel-hued sheep worthy of a Tim Walker shoot. Shetland ponies named Navajo and Geronimo helped distribute meadow flowers for the gentlemen’s buttonholes. (“A party shouldn’t be taken too seriously,”…

Isn’t it always the quietest ones who turn out to be the most fascinating? Case in point: Suzanne Koller, a cofounder of Self Service magazine and fashion director of French Vogue, who takes a rare step into the spotlight by publishing a highly edited two-decade overview of her work, Red Lips, Attitudes and Other Obsessions, courtesy of London’s cultish Idea books. Chronicling collaborations with photographers including Inez and Vinoodh, Patrick Demarchelier, Alasdair McLellan, Ezra Petronio, and Glen Luchford—along with models Raquel Zimmermann, Anja Rubik, and Edie Campbell—what’s evident is Koller’s singular modus operandi: an ability to project the character of the woman she is shooting, with the clothes playing a supporting role. “It’s very much documentary,” says Koller. “That’s why the mix of pictures all work together: It’s less about…

There comes a time in the life of anyone starting a small business when he or she breaks down in tears. For Emily Holt, that moment arrived when what seemed like the millionth person asked, “You’re opening a brick-andmortar store? In San Francisco? Now? Are you nuts?” Holt, a former Vogue editor, left Manhattan two years ago to chase her dream—a store in her hometown that would sell the kinds of things she loved and could never find. Now her baby, Hero Shop—so called after a sign on a bodega in Brooklyn—is offering Repettos and Vans, Creatures of the Wind frocks and Delfina Delettrez baubles from a highceilinged spot at 982 Post Street in the Tenderloin, which she describes as reminiscent of Manhattan’s Lower East Side or the Meatpacking District…

A new, all-female trinity of young photographers is electrifying the art of fashion image-making. The styles of Harley Weir, 28; Zoë Ghertner, 31; and Coco Capitán, 24, are more raw and more real than what’s usually on the page. This is a group unafraid of lensing subjects with blots and idiosyncrasies, adding to vignettes that hum with relatable, visceral truths. Along with the reformatting of runway shows, experimental see-now/buy-now options, and the democratic exhale of even the most buttoned-up of luxury players—largely thanks to social media—these women are part of a paradigm shift within the industry: Harley Weir Zoë Ghertner Coco Capitán While fashion photography has long been hyperglossed and male-dominated, the rapid ascent of Weir, Ghertner, and Capitán from obscurity to the apex of the biz signifies the arrival…

How on earth did I come up with the idea of running thirteen miles in Kenya? Yes, I keep fit, and that occasionally involves running, but never more than a couple of miles. Jogging along a flat surface has always seemed a little pointless to me. Well—until a few months ago, that is. Let’s start at the beginning: For my May column I underwent weeks of sprints and distance running in order to train with track star English Gardner. Afterward, I found I needed a new challenge, and that’s when an invitation to race a half-marathon in Kenya for charity came through the door. Did the prospect scare me? Of course! The idea of running that distance on any terrain made me gulp. Running in the foothills of Mount Kenya?…

Magnet therapy has long been touted by alternative healers for its purported regenerative effects; the youth-obsessed Cleopatra is said to have slept with a magnetic stone on her forehead. Now the idea of using electromagnetic fields to slow the signs of aging is gaining ground. “In the field of medicine in general, magnets have become a major source of investigation,” says dermatologist Whitney Bowe, M.D., an adviser for the forward-thinking skincare line Dr. Brandt. The brand’s new Magnetight Age-Defier Magnet Mask aims to rejuvenate tired complexions by creating “tiny little fluxes” to stimulate blood flow, Bowe explains of its circulation-boosting technology. The application is simple: After smoothing on the iron-infused cream, you glide a magnet over the skin, which extracts the formula’s metallic particles while leaving behind antioxidants, firming peptides,…

With an ability to read the Zeitgeist and provoke reactions, designer Jonathan Anderson is one of the most attention-grabbing natives of the Internet age, helming both his namesake J.W.Anderson brand and Loewe, as its creative director. “It’s three years ago this September,” Anderson boggles of his time at the Spanish leathergoods label, whose reputation has leaped forward under his hand. “And I’d never even designed a bag till then!” This month, the Northern Irish wunderkind is releasing something else he’s never done before: two new perfumes, one for him, the other for her. “But I believe in sharing,” he says, smiling. While Anderson alludes to the fact that Loewe 001 Woman (earthy sandalwood layered with jasmine and bergamot) might produce something interesting when mingled with or swapped for Loewe 001…

As a child growing up in Paris, Philippe Starck made an unlikely clubhouse out of his mother’s tiny fragrance shop. “I was completely stoned with all the perfume,” recalls the 67-year-old design legend. Over his decades-spanning career, Starck has left his singular aesthetic stamp on high-profile hotels (the Delano in Miami Beach, Le Meurice in Paris), playful kitchenware (his iconic citrus juicer for Alessi), and mega yachts, including one for the notoriously fastidious Steve Jobs. But this month, he returns to his olfactory roots with his first-ever fragrance trio. With his wife and confidante, Jasmine, in tow, Starck explains that each scent is loosely inspired by woman, man, and some intangible other. “The perfume in the bottle on the shelf is a theory,” he muses, describing how a fragrance comes…

At sixteen, I walked out of a doctor’s office with a prescription for the pill. I wasn’t sexually active; I didn’t even have a boyfriend. I did, however, have some minor menstrual cramping and typical teen acne, both of which my doctor told me the pill would likely ease. But mostly, going on Ortho Tri-Cyclen was sort of just a thing that women my age did. (It was Seattle in the nineties.) Plus, those little round pills, in their sleek round compact, were . . . cool; they seemed to suggest that while I wasn’t having sex, I could be. For the next decade and a half I religiously took these tablets. I didn’t think much about them, except to joke with my girlfriends about the unexplained darkening of the…

masters of Sex and Mad Men gave us the mid-century battles of the sexes. Adapted by Dana Calvo from the journalist Lynn Povich’s memoir, Amazon’s breezy new tenpart series Good Girls Revolt carries us back to the all-too-relevant gender revolution of the 1970s. Set at the fictional News of the Week, the action whirls around free-spirited Patti Robinson (Genevieve Angelson), unself-confident Cindy Reston (Erin Darke), and square, ultra-competent Jane Hollander (Anna Camp). This compliant trio, costumed to period perfection by Laura Jean Shannon, works in research at a magazine where the bylines and glory are only for men. Inspired by an encounter with Nora Ephron (Grace Gummer), they start asking for more—from their jobs, their romantic lives, and the larger world. “This is a show I’m proud to make,” says…

Best known for her classic short story “The Lottery,” the subject of Ruth Franklin’s fascinating biography, Shirley Jackson: A Rather Haunted Life (Liveright), wrote at two polar extremes: literary horror and domestic comedy. In fact, Franklin argues, the two were closely linked for the midcentury author, who always seemed out of place, both as the awkward daughter of a San Francisco socialite and as the wife of a philandering Bennington professor. In Jackson’s best novels, The Haunting of Hill House and We Have Always Lived in the Castle, terror is found at the dining table and in the nursery; the recently reissued Raising Demons and Life Among the Savages make farce of sexism (“I’ll just put down housewife,” a clerk at the hospital where she delivers her third child says).…

victoria Beckham has been obsessed with beauty since she was a little girl and a friend of her mother’s gave her a collection of empty fragrance bottles. Beckham gleefully used them to glamorize her childhood dressing table—dreaming, perhaps, of the day when she might replace them with bottles that actually contained perfume. That day came soon enough when, as one-fifth of the epoch-defining Spice Girls, she helped teach a generation of impressionable young women about self-empowerment and channeled her creativity into her own evolving image. In this she has been aided and abetted by “the best makeup artists and stylists and photographers since I was eighteen years old.” Along the way, she has taken careful note of “all the little tricks” she has learned from beauty-industry titans—Pat McGrath, Val Garland,…

I first met Isabel Johnson Hiss in 1997. I was an assistant at a literary magazine by day and a waitress by night. I had not yet begun work on my first novel, but I was well into the work of becoming a writer: reading voraciously, writing lousy stories, and scribbling notes in a composition book. The magazine was run by a famous (and famously eccentric) editor. He taught me to read carefully and ruthlessly, to edit sentences, and to revile “widows” and “orphans” in typeset print. But he also gave me advice about how to live. He recommended cheap food (various street vendors), expensive doctors (specialists on the East Side of Manhattan), cheap laundry soap (Fels-Naphtha), and expensive clothing (Filson oilcloth jackets and wool sweaters). To me, a young…

Selena Gomez met Nicolas Ghesquière the new oldfashioned way—she got his email address from a mutual friend and dashed off a letter of introduction. “I was immediately intrigued by her spontaneity and curiosity,” the Louis Vuitton creative director remembers. “Actually, he loved my song ‘Good for You,’ ” Gomez says. “That was the real icebreaker.” Two years later, in addition to being a regular at Ghesquière’s shows, joining him at the Met gala this past May, and even sharing the cover of Brazilian Vogue, Gomez is now his latest campaign star. And while a celebrity endorsement might sound like par for the course at a global brand, the relationship is actually more an affirmation that, at 24, Gomez is (finally) a fullfledged fashion force. “Let’s just say I wasn’t always…

The jewelry emporia of Paris’s storied Place Vendôme all speak of luxury in different ways: with Louis Quinze boiseries on the walls, silken carpet underfoot, and rock-crystal chandeliers overhead, perhaps, or with lavishly gilded walls and contemporary-art installations. But at Repossi, Number 6 on the historic square, a quiet revolution has taken place in what was once a classically luxurious space. In 2007, at the age of 21, Gaia Repossi was appointed creative director of the house that her great-grandfather Constantino founded in Turin in the 1920s. Since then, she has turned the luxury-jewelry market on its head with her rapier-sharp vision of millennial cool while marrying state-of-the-art 3-D technology to the handcrafting skills of the same workrooms that have produced Repossi pieces through four generations. Much of her innovative…

Sometimes change comes slowly, tiptoeing into the room, and sometimes it comes crashing though the barricades, as brazen as a flower bomb exploding on a catwalk. One day—or one season—you wake up and see, instead of a line of ashen teenage waifs, an explosion of voluptuous beauty, a delectable, curvy carnival of real women beginning to make its way down at least a few fashion runways. “I see things happening now that would have never happened in the past,” says model-of-the-moment Irina Shayk. “We are living in such a different time, and America is embracing a more expansive idea of beauty.” The slender but undeniably shapely Shayk, who counts Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci among her fans, thinks “the Internet and reality television really changed things—nowadays, anything goes.” Shayk knows whereof she…

STELLA LUNA Year in and year out, one constant remains: We will always, it seems, be asking our Parisian soeurs the secret of their insouciant style. “We want it to look easy,” says the ravissante Capucine Safyurtlu. The ex–French Vogue fashion editor exhibits an earthy sensuality in skinny head-to-toe denim and nutmeg suede cuissardes from the Chinese footwear brand Stella Luna, where earlier this year she was named creative director. Keeping things effortless seems to come naturally to this 37-year-old mother of two, who mixes high fashion and off-duty pragmatism with an approachable, cool sensibility—one that requires “an effortless shoe for every occasion . . . even for smoking a cigarette,” she says, laughing. “I am making the perfect shoe closet.” A consultancy late last year soon led to Safyurtlu’s…

Twelve minutes early, Haley Bennett enters Little Lions, the café–adoption center in SoHo, and eighteen orphan cats and I greet her from a banquette that could use a spray of Febreze. Bennett (“Making the Cut,” page 692) wears a blue oxford shirt opened to a black leotard, blue jeans, a straw sun hat, and brass wire eyeglasses that capture her green eyes. She looks like a movie star, which she is, or is about to be. “I have two cats—Darlington and Margaret—and a third on the way,” she says, plus a seventeen-pound terrier mix and a Saint Bernard named Amadeus (“It’s like having a horse in the city”). Bennett grew up in rural Ohio around pigs, ferrets, and barn cats and learned to shoot a shotgun as a child, although…

Has anywhere in the world ever been as radical, revered, and viewed with envy as downtown New York City? It’s the sort of place that virtually defines the fierceness and fearlessness of the city itself, where what’s next is all that ever matters. Nine American design stars of different stripes—Michael Kors, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, Tory Burch, Creatures of the Wind’s Shane Gabier and Chris Peters, Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright, and Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School and DKNY—reveal what they love most about the place that everyone wishes they could call home. MAXWELL OSBORNE AND DAO-YI CHOW Public School and DKNY What makes Public School’s designers the black-paletted poster boys for New York’s coolkid clothes—think ultra-comfy yet stylish sweats and equally easy…

They’re called “slashers”—or les slasheuses, in French. Reminiscent of a horror-movie subgenre, the phrase has become shorthand, in certain circles, for the kind of girl turning up on runways recently. Often she’s not “just” a model. She’s a model–slash–musician–slash– artist–slash–body image activist, and she’s shifting the way we think about beauty. Whether long of face or gap-toothed, with a flock of freckles or pastel-colored hair, she stands out from the pack, with quirk and intrigue to spare. She may be all of 20, but she’s a woman with (at least the suggestion of) a past, and her looks make you wonder where she’s headed. Perhaps it was inevitable that, having witnessed the passing of the supermodel and the waif, followed by the anodyne hordes— pale, delicate, and very, very young—we…

French clay masks, charcoal cleansers, and floralinfused complexion waters are trending at an unexpected location: your friendly neighborhood Target. In the last year and a half, the Minneapolis-based megastore has hand-picked some 100 new beauty lines for its network of nearly 1,800 locations— brands that celebrate what Dawn Block, Target’s senior vice president, merchandising, essentials, and beauty, calls the “spirit of transparency” while nodding to what’s new and what’s next. This includes apothecary lines like Denver’s Fig + Yarrow and Brooklyn-based Plant’s botanical body washes, as well as S.W. Basics’ homespun salves, cult Parisian classics from Nuxe and Embryolisse, and Harry’s modern grooming range, which debuted in August. This month, Target will unveil its next major effort in moving the green needle: its first-ever cosmetics collaboration with Beautycounter, the safe–skin…

Beauty entwined with darkness is McQueen,” creative director Sarah Burton says following her presentation of Alexander McQueen’s fall collection in London. A nocturne of poetic prints, eiderdown coats, and ethereal knits, it was a triumphant example of the kind of whip-smart leadership she has brought to the brand since taking over in 2010. The longtime right hand to the late Alexander “Lee” McQueen, Burton is carrying on his brooding aesthetic while revealing her own softer vein of romanticism. This fall, she distills that vision into her first fragrance, a fitting homage to night-blooming flowers. “I did not want this to relate back to any other perfume,” Burton insists, noting the lack of sweetness in her blend of jasmine, ylang-ylang, and tuberose. Having spent her youth picking meadow flowers outside Manchester,…

It’s better if you don’t have any expectations,” says a woman sitting next to me, whose tousled blonde hair holds within it innumerable feathers and beads affixed by mysterious means. “I could tell you what it’s like, but then it wouldn’t be your journey.” My journey has brought me to Maha Rose North, an endearing cabin turned wellness center in the Catskills, where I’m seated cross-legged in a large, light-colored room that smells faintly of sage and lavender and something else I can only describe as “drowsy.” There are antlers on the windowsills, and everywhere you look there’s a crystal. For the past 30 minutes, 20 or so guests have filtered in, and now we’re all draping ourselves over Persian rugs and heart-shaped pillows, stretching and getting comfortable. In front…

It is 8:00 a.m., and Dana James, a nutritionist I have enlisted, is storming through the refrigerated labyrinth of Whole Foods on Union Square. Chic in a pencil skirt and tall black boots, her blonde hair clipped loosely off her neck, James radiates a relaxed glow, even as she dishes me up some decidedly tough love. “Thirty-one grams of sugar!” she says, brandishing a tub of my current obsession, an Australian-style yogurt, and pointing to the ingredients label. “That is nearly eight teaspoons of added sugar. Come on!” One by one, James exposes delicious health-food staples I’ve long believed to be nutritious—a whole-grain cereal, nut bars, cultured coconut milk—as little more than processed junk. This supermarket walkabout was a crucial lap in my journey to ratchet up my understanding of…

In ABC’s polished new series Designated Survivor, Kiefer Sutherland plays Tom Kirkman, a minor Cabinet member who freakishly becomes POTUS after an explosion takes out the U.S. Capitol—and everyone above him in the pecking order. Now, with the help of a loving wife (Natascha McElhone) and a crack chief of staff (Italia Ricci), this thoughtful liberal (Jack Bauer he ain’t) must commandeer the Oval Office, battle scheming insiders, and discover whether the attack came from without or within. Created by David Guggenheim, the show taps into current anxieties yet preserves a human dimension thanks to Sutherland, who knows firsthand what it means to step into big shoes.…

Sarah Jones first astonished audiences with her ability to transform herself into myriad characters of various ethnicities in her 2004 comedic hit Bridge & Tunnel, which went on to win a Tony Award on Broadway. Now, after traveling the world as a UNICEF goodwill ambassador and becoming a star on the TED circuit, Jones returns to New York with Sell/Buy/Date, a hilarious, harrowing look at the sex industry, opening next month at the Manhattan Theatre Club. “I have to let go of being afraid that once I say ‘sex work,’ people will panic and run,” Jones says with a laugh. “I want it to be funny—and create the space for people to have a conversation about a topic they never normally think about.” In the course of the 90-minute show,…

We’re living in AN ERA LIKE NO OTHER in living memory. All manner of authentic and of-the-moment EXPRESSIONS OF BEAUTY and individuality are flowering, from imaginative clothes that celebrate the unique in ways never seen before to a model like Kendall Jenner—a SOCIAL-MEDIA SENSATION who may very well rank as the most globally known figure to have ever graced our cover. The excitement of the fall collections comes from designers pushing us forward on a THRILLING AND BREATHTAKING RIDE: Established visionaries such as Tom Ford and Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, populists with a purpose, are showing the clothes on the runway one minute via a smartphone and letting ANYONE AND EVERYONE shop for them in the next. Demna Gvasalia, meanwhile, in his much-anticipated Balenciaga debut, began to forge an identity for…

The worldwide reaction against globalism takes many forms, most of them less dramatic than Brexit. In the art world, a trend has been emerging toward personal, intimate, and sometimes (but not always) small-scale paintings. This new work has almost nothing in common with the overblown, space-filling, mixedmedia installations that the critic Peter Schjeldahl described in 1999 as “festival art”—made for the commercial art fairs that have proliferated internationally for almost two decades. Museums and commercial galleries fell over themselves in the rush to follow suit, building huge new spaces to accommodate installation and performance art. Everything got bigger and more public, it seemed, and many artists were lured into producing the sort of work that would fill the new spaces and fit the appetites of ravenous new collectors. But art…

Table of Contents 115: On Hartzel: Prada fur-and-wool jacket, $11,250; select Prada boutiques. On Verhoef: Prada bracelet, $715; select Prada boutiques. 171: On Zendaya: Cashmere coat, $3,295; burberry.com. Cotton-and-leather shirt, $5,735; j-w-anderson.com. Prada tights, $515; select Prada boutiques. Boots, $1,677; select Louis Vuitton boutiques. Cover look 245: Silk jacquard jacket ($7,980), skirt ($1,390), earrings ($1,020), multifinger ring ($640), and feline-head ring ($265); select Gucci boutiques. Foldout: Dress, $2,390; The Row, NYC. Poster: Cardigan ($795), camisole ($1,695), shorts (price upon request), earrings ($325), necklace ($495), and tights ($125); Alexander Wang, NYC. Up front 352: Silk dress, $585; karenwalker .com. Tacori earrings ($190) and necklace ($250); tacori .com. Lives 438: Silk-crepe dress, $10,500; select Hermès boutiques. Tiffany & Co. bracelet ($1,600) and rings ($2,800–$4,000); tiffany.com. Talking Fashion 472: On Rocha: Simone Rocha…

“Women are so complex,” says Miuccia Prada, at once direct and elusive, of her inspiration for the fall 2016 collection and these high-heeled, gloriously off-kilter wundershoes. They’re not particularly utilitarian—a splash of mud would surely dampen their glow—but the combination of stripy, woodsman-like laces and an open peekaboo heel with decadent midnight-blue velvet makes for the witchy hiking boot we didn’t know we needed.…