Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2018 i Vogue

AT LEAST FOURTEEN TIMES a day, the Korean actress Claudia Kim applies toner to her face. One round of seven strokes in the morning; another before bed; and pretty much whenever she can steal a few minutes to swipe, pat, repeat. That’s why Kim carries a travel-size container of the soothing, oil-controlling formula from the K-beauty brand Dermatory in a black duffel bag with her wherever she goes, she explains on a rainy fall day in Manhattan’s Koreatown. The remaining contents include specialty cotton pads from Japan, sunblock from Korea, and at least two masks (a shea-butter infusion for her face and a cooling, herbal iteration for her feet). A mini blue lighter rounds out the self-proclaimed K-beauty junkie’s “essentials,” but more on this in a minute. A former model,…

WHEN CASEY CADWALLADER WAS old enough to be left alone for an evening, his parents would often return home to find their young son dancing furiously to MTV videos, including George Michael’s “Too Funky,” which was costumed and directed by Thierry Mugler. Little could they have imagined that nearly three decades later their boy would be living in Paris—and at the helm of the house of Mugler. Today, this formerly too-funky schoolchild is ensconced in the Ninth Arrondissement in a classic Haussmann apartment alive with light and plants, happily at home with his husband, the artist John Miserendino. Cadwallader may have grown up in bucolic New England, but he was dreaming early of the hard glamour of the night. “I was interested in what people do that was secret and…

THE ART OF TRAVEL The ultracolorful This Is Mexico City, by designer Abby Clawson Low (Clarkson Potter), captures the zingy vibrancy of the metropolis, one neighborhood at a time. The creative spirit of a city also imbues writer Ann Patchett and photographer Heidi Ross’s Nashville (Harper Design), a sun-washed tribute to the town they call home. Zoom around the world with Destination Art: 500 Artworks Worth the Trip (Phaidon), a portable survey of geo-specific artworks. Three out of the 500 pieces were dreamed up by Icelandic-Danish artist Olafur Eliasson, whose installations manipulate the natural elements to dazzling effect in the retrospective Olafur Eliasson: Experience (Phaidon). Voyeurism on a more modest scale takes to the streets in Vivian Maier: The Color Work (Harper Design), the first definitive monograph of the low-profile…

Fervently admired by artists, curators, and collectors, Vija Celmins has remained largely under the radar outside the art world. That’s about to change when a comprehensive survey of nearly 150 works from 1964 to the present opens this month at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and travels next year to the Met Breuer. “Vija hasn’t put herself on a pedestal,” says SFMOMA’s Gary Garrels, the show’s cocurator. “She has no interest in mythologizing herself.” Celmins was born in Latvia in 1938, two years before the Soviet occupation during the Second World War; her family escaped to Germany and lived in refugee camps until they emigrated, via New York City, to Indianapolis when she was ten years old. She spoke no English, and drawing became her primary language. A…

FIGHT NIGHT ISN’T AS ROWDY as I expected. When I invited a few girlfriends to take in an evening of amateur Muay Thai, a form of boxing that utilizes elbows, knees, punches, and kicks, I pictured us jostling for space amid a whooping mass of blood-lusty men. But the audience at this venue off Wall Street is rather tame—polite gaggles from gyms in Philadelphia and the outer boroughs, here to cheer on their fighters, and banker types who seem to have only just escaped from their desks. The bouts are pretty tame, too. Until two women step into the ring. An electric current runs through the crowd when Carmen Corchado and Julie Cohen dart out from their corners: This is a fight. They go five rounds, battering each other. Everyone…

Here is a roster of the knives I own: a teninch Wüsthof bought fifteen years ago after a knife-skills class, where I was tricked into believing that extremely large knives are easier to use than small ones; assorted paring knives bought for €9 a pop at markets in France; a heavy, pricey bread knife; a boning knife sharpened to resemble a prison shiv; an eight-inch Global santoku, which I don’t remember buying; and an eight-inch Togiharu, the house brand of the famed Japanese knife store Korin, which was a gift from my brother. My collection puts me far outside the perimeter of knife geekdom. But several months ago a mild obsession struck. I had just inherited my late father’s set of hunting knives: Bowie knives and fishing knives, survival knives,…

PLANC IS A NEW NAME in Italian fashion, but its founder, Carolina Castiglioni—the daughter of Consuelo and Gianni Castiglioni—grew up in the business: Her mother launched Marni in 1994 and developed it into a beloved label before exiting in 2016; her father was its CEO. Plan C, which has been picked up by Barneys New Y ork and is set to open a Tokyo flagship in February, is bound to remind insiders of Marni with its arty sensibility and off-kilter colors, but make no mistake: This is Carolina’s baby. She runs it from an office in the heart of Milan that she shares with her sister-in-law, Cynthia Vilchez, who designs a delicate jewelry line called Aliita. “It’s what I like—I follow my instincts,” Carolina says of Plan C, which mixes…

THE TERM “YOUTUBE STAR” is thrown around a lot these days, often in the same breath as “influencer.” And “content creator.” But Lisa Eldridge has come by her success on the video platform honestly. The London-based makeup artist, who has logged time backstage at Sonia Rykiel and Proenza Schouler over the course of her 25-year career, has amassed more than two million followers, not to mention earning a Lancôme global-creative-director title. Eldridge’s ability to distill complicated techniques (a no-makeup makeup look; a classic smoky eye) into easy-to-follow tutorials, paired with an authority built on her long-standing fashion and beauty cred, has made her a viral sensation—someone who could effortlessly sell you on a blush or an eye-shadow palette. Or, starting this winter, a trio of sumptuous matte lipsticks. “I had…

Precisely what is Mary Poppins? We know her to be a humanoid who does not age, is capable of telekinesis, is not constricted by the ordinary bounds of time, space, and gravity, and flies through the air with the aid of an umbrella, albeit in upright, duck-footed fashion. She is stern, fastidious, and speaks with a posh accent, but enjoys vaguely romantic relationships with common laborers. She is beloved by children and former children the world over, yet is, when contemplated at an intellectual distance, utterly unknowable, even bizarre. “She’s a superhero,” says Emily Blunt without hesitation. “You could say she’s some sort of angel. She recognizes what people need, and she gives it to them, yet they discover something about themselves in the process.” With a rather Mary Poppins–like…

Table of contents: 42: Hoop earring ($12,900 for pair), drop earring ($18,300 for pair), diamond bracelet ($72,600), and sapphire bracelet ($36,600); pomellato.com. Tank top ($390), skirt ($1,600), and shoes ($795); Calvin Klein, NYC. Manicure, Kamel. Tailor, Marion Robillard. 54: Shirt ($590), skirt ($2,690), and belt ($990); Carolina Herrera, NYC. Cover look: 54: Jacket, shirt, tie, knit briefs, skirt, and hat; priced upon request; (800) 929-DIOR. Tabitha Simmons boots, price upon request; tabithasimmons.com. London Undercover umbrella, $100; londonundercover.co.uk. Manicure, Megumi Yamamoto. Tailor, Alexander Koutny. V Life: 84: Jil Sander top ($1,210), bustier ($530), and skirt ($1,080); Jil Sander, NYC. Earrings, $485; Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. 88: Necklace, price upon request. 92: Dress, $2,790; muglerusa.com. 98: Dress, $1,495; select Nordstrom stores. Earrings, $420; leffrontee.nyc. Tailor, Francisco Chaydez. 106: On Henry: Levi’s jacket, $90;…

I was a strange child. I lived with my grandmother in a place where there weren’t any other kids, and she didn’t like me wandering around the streets, so I just stayed home and drew all day—I didn’t even know how to ride a bicycle at that point. I went to movies a lot. That’s where I learned; that was my college. There was one little theater that played old movies, and they were showing [1934’s] Cleopatra, with Claudette Colbert. I saw that and I went, “Wow!” In the late ’40s, you didn’t see cleavage in Hollywood—it was against the code. Later, when I started doing costumes for Cher, I said to the producers, “There’s things in that movie that would be great on her—she could do all that stuff.”…

EVERYONE REMEMBERS THEIR FIRST Clinique experience. Mine was at my grandmother’s beach house in South Jersey, where she had a bottle of Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion—the cornerstone of the brand’s iconic three-step cleansing, exfoliating, and moisturizing system—in the guest bathroom. Save for my occasional dalliances with the nostalgic glass bottle and sage-green packaging, its contents never seemed to dwindle. Years later, I’d realize that Bubbles, as my sister and I called our father’s mother, kept the butter-yellow elixir in the medicine cabinet not so much as a skin-care aid but as a beauty status symbol with a decades-old pedigree. Since its launch in 1968, Clinique has remained fairly faithful to the fragrance-free and allergy-tested formula created by celebrated dermatologist Norman Orentreich, M.D. The company sells a box of one plumping-and-hydrating…

“WHERE I’M FROM IN TLAXIACO,” Yalitza Aparicio explains, “there is no movie theater.” Acting in a film—much less starring in one, as she does in Roma, the latest from Alfonso Cuarón (Gravity, Y Tu Mamá También)—was far from her mind when she was growing up. Technically—technically!—the 24-year-old is not an actor. Roma, which is filmed in Spanish and Mixteco (an indigenous language of Mexico), is her first movie, and Aparicio was quietly finishing her degree to become a preschool teacher when she was cast. But after her heartbreaking performance, it’s hard to deny her the title. Cuarón’s sweeping black-and-white film is based on the director’s childhood in 1970s Mexico City, when violent student protests were taking place in the streets and his parents were separating. A semblance of household peace…

A trip to an interior-design center can bring on some serious pangs of decor-scheme second-guessing. (Is your minimalist kitchen too antiseptic? Are your azure tones too Caribbean?) But at Manhattan’s Decoration & Design Building, an Upper East Side institution housing more than 130 brands from Fortuny to Baccarat, fabric atelier Castel has created an anxiety-free space—its new showroom feels more cozy coffee shop than swatch-filled retailer. Among the mini-mounds of pillows and elegant swags of cloth, there’s ample seating and plenty of desk space. And it’s not just for show; visitors are welcome to just hang out, says Castel founder and CEO Stephane Silverman: “We really wanted to shake things up at the D&D Building.” It’s an attitude that extends to the company’s latest textile offerings, where more is more…

Who better than Tom Ford to deliver us a pair of bedazzled kitten heels that glitter like a disco ball with each step? These black leather slingbacks shine like stars, courtesy of almost 6,000 Swarovski crystals. (Ford didn’t forget the heel, either: Seek, and you shall find… more crystals!) “Aren’t diamonds supposed to be a girl’s best friend?” wonders the designer. We think you know the answer.…