Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2018 i Vogue

THIS NOVEMBER WE CELEBRATE the fifteenth year of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, our annual initiative to find and nurture the very best new American design talent. In honor of this anniversary, Tonne Goodman and Mikael Jansson photographed models Kendall Jenner and Imaan Hammam wearing many of the past winners and finalists, from Proenza Schouler to Gypsy Sport, Rodarte to Telfar, Alexander Wang to Thom Browne. It’s an impressive roll call of designers who’ve gone from being local heroes to marquee names. There’s also a portrait of all those who are taking part this year: Batsheva, Bode, Christian Cowan, Hunting Season, Jonathan Cohen, Luar, Matthew Adams Dolan, Pyer Moss, Rebecca de Ravenel, and Scosha. Congratulations to all of you! Meanwhile, Sally Singer, our Creative Digital Director and a member of the…

WHEN JOE ALWYN WAS NINE, he became obsessed with the swashbuckling Antonio Banderas movie The Mask of Zorro and began “scratching little zeds” into the furniture of his London home. His parents—documentarian father; psychotherapist mother—sent him to the local community center for fencing lessons, where he caught the eye of a casting director and ended up auditioning to play Liam Neeson’s stepson in Love Actually. “I didn’t know anything about anyone,” the actor, now 27, remembers. The part went to someone else, but a seed—an interest in “the process, the idea of playing”—was planted. It bore fruit when Alwyn was 23 and was plucked from London’s Royal Central School of Speech & Drama in his third year to play the title role in Ang Lee’s 2016 Iraq War film Billy…

INSIDE A GALLERY OF Greek and Roman sculpture at the Getty Center, Randi Christiansen is eyeing the marble flesh of Aphrodite as she bends down to unfasten her sandal before a soak. “Bathing and the rituals around the body—they’ve been here since the beginning,” says the fifteen-year Estée Lauder Companies alum. Nick Axelrod, who cofounded the cult beauty site Into the Gloss, is sizing up the spear-thrower Doryphoros. “This is how everyone is trying to look at Cross-Fit,” he jokes. The Italians called the athlete’s asymmetrical pose contrapposto; Drake has dubbed it “hitting them angles.” Christiansen and Axelrod, now business partners, have spent the past year thinking intensely about bodies—especially why we don’t apply the same obsessive label-reading that usually attends our facial skin-care routines to the products we apply…

My mother’s fur coats always hung in the front-hall closet. When I was a child and reached for my parka or duffel to go out to play, there they were: glossy, sleek, serried, invariably glamorous. My mother came from a generation of postwar women who wore fur in the same manner as they carried gold compacts; who never went out without lipstick, kid gloves, and a hat. Not once did I see her in a pair of ratty pajamas or jeans: She relaxed in silky nightgowns and robes; on the rare occasions she wore trousers—“Women should wear dresses or skirts! They’re far more flattering”—they were either ski pants or tailored tweed. Mum’s first fur coat was a leopard, now illegal, one that she saved for out of her paycheck over…

At the plum Sloane Street intersection of London’s Chelsea and Knightsbridge neighborhoods sit five nineteenth-century town houses linked by a somewhat scandalous history. In one, turn-of-the-last-century society fixture Lillie Langtry took the future King Edward VII as her lover. Though the affair was carried out behind closed doors, Langtry wasn’t exactly subtle about the romance. The ceilings of her drawing room were decorated with trios of feathers—the heraldic badge of the Prince of Wales. Starting next month, you’ll be able to admire this plasterwork firsthand in the new Belmond Cadogan Hotel, which underwent an extensive refurbishment that transformed the cobbled-together town houses into lodgings with cohesive charm. “It looked a bit like your grandmother’s parlor,” said the hotel’s Klaus Kabelitz, “but not in a good way.” Now you’ll find a…

Since time immemorial, people have adored fur—the most natural of fibers, renowned for its innate elegance, its warmth, and its grandeur. Now, in the 21st century there is another vitally important reason that a younger generation is returning to the embrace of fur: a growing alarm about the earth we all share. The rising concern regarding the impact of plastics on our oceans and land, and the toll that pollution is taking on our environment, makes our decisions about what we wear, how we consume, and how we live more important than ever. In an era of fast fashion, when chemical-based fake fur products glut the market and languish in our landfills, a fur coat is the ultimate refutation of the buy-it-and-toss-it ethos. A beloved fur is often handed down…

THE FEARLESS performer Cynthia Erivo has arrived at her no-nonsense SoHo gym with her Maltipoo puppy, Caleb, in tow. The risible idea is that I will work out alongside her, but I should have known better. After all, this is an actress whose dream it is to play Serena Williams (“There’s this fiery, determined champion, and then there’s this really gorgeous, almost Marilyn Monroe–esque siren—something really quite ethereal”) and some sort of fictional superhero (“I think I’d really enjoy being able to just go for it, to be honest”). Two exercises in, I’m a crumpled mess, but at the end of the grueling session Erivo, who has barely broken a sweat, shows off a bit, swinging about on the high bars with the power and control of an Olympic gymnast.…

Blue eye shadow had settled in the dustbin of the eighties when a young Christina Ricci turned up in 1998’s weird, winding Buffalo ’66. Paired with a baby doll dress and glossy russet lips, her cornflower eye makeup gained newfound currency among grunge-era ingenues. Twenty years later, the runways signal a fresh wave of pastels—and again, the message is soft, not sweet. For Hugo’s Berlin club kid–inspired collection this summer, makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver doled out pale-blue lids and brick lips, the off-kilter twist on crimson that’s primed for a comeback; here, Sally Branka offers a road-tripping spin, as seen on model Maartje Verhoef. That juxtaposition—diffused color anchored by a rebellious mouth—is a nod to the way forward this fall: optimistic vision with a determination to speak one’s mind.…

If your social feeds experienced a design deluge this past April, it was owing to Milan’s supremely photogenic furniture fair, Salone del Mobile—and specifically to the splendorous and rarely open Palazzo Bocconi, where Louis Vuitton commissioned a canopy of Valentine-hued origami flowers. It was a spectacle to behold, but more impressive were the wares beneath: Vuitton’s first-ever line of home decor, Les Petits Nomades. For the collection’s debut, available this month, four illustrious collaborators were called upon to pleat, pucker, and manipulate the brand’s supple leathers into decorative objects. Among them, Humberto and Fernando Campana’s vase, which pays homage to the pineapple-like blooms on the bromeliad plants of their native Brazil—it’s a vessel so stunning, filling it with flowers may very well be gilding the lily. And perhaps the line’s…

WHEN IT COMES TO SUMMER souvenirs, a smattering of newfound freckles is one thing. But melasma—a puzzle of brown patches resembling the inkblots on a Rorschach test—is quite another. A common form of hyperpigmentation that typically dapples the cheeks and forehead, as well as the eye and lip areas, melasma can be caused by elevated estrogen levels, plain old UV exposure, or heat. And it’s increasingly common among women in their 30s and 40s, affecting as many as five million people in the U.S. alone. Los Angeles–based aesthetician Gina Marí has long recommended a varied protocol to treat dark spots on her red-carpet clientele—topical lightening agents, exfoliating acid peels, and nonthermal lasers that use acoustic energy to shatter pigment particles. Now Marí joins a growing number of facialists, as well…

While facial bars and drop-in meditation studios have mainstreamed much of the self-care industry, one area of wellness remains little understood. “Acupuncture is still in the shadows,” says Shari Auth, a certified doctor of Chinese medicine and acupuncture who has practiced in Manhattan for the past fifteen years. There is good reason for this; hyperindividualized, the ancient tradition requires years of study to master and can command a hefty price tag. But Auth is of the mind that it should be accessible to everyone. This month, she brings her expertise to the SoulCycle and Skin Laundry crowd with WTHN (“When you do spiritual work, the first thing you need to do is get rid of the I”), her 2,200-square-foot space in New York’s Flatiron District that offers a monthly membership…

Whether your guests always gather by the stove, or you simply relish quiet mornings around the island, the kitchen is both a respite and a gathering place—the space you’ll visit in the morning and often the last before bedtime. Your kitchen is a personal reflection of who you are. So why do all appliances look the same? The Café Matte Collection changes that. In modern Matte Black or refreshing Matte White finishes, this collection of appliances offers customizable hardware options that create a cohesive design in your kitchen. From the range to the refrigerator, you’re in control of your aesthetic. Today kitchen design has evolved to infuse fashion into a space traditionally known for its function, and with Café collection, your sense of style can be traced from the closet…

Strange as it sounds, Claire Foy knows the London canals intimately, she tells me, having once steered a boat through the longest of their tunnels and somehow come out the other side. The two of us are standing on an embankment in Camden, in north-central London, toward the summer’s end. In another age, a stroll along this waterfront would have been a gritty passage. Now it’s calm and scenic, dampened only by the weather. A refreshing cloudburst, heavy and cool, is drenching the city after weeks of lazy and uncomfortable heat. “I went on a hen do once,” Foy says, recalling a friend’s floating bachelorette party on the canal. “No one else was brave enough to operate the barge, so I did. Ridiculous.” She bursts into incredulous laughter under the…

Capri’s allure had bewitched the philosopher architect Roberto Peregalli ever since he first visited the mystic island as a child. Meanwhile, his partner in design, Laura Sartori Rimini (who forms the pragmatic half of their alchemical architecture and interior-design practice, Studio Peregalli), knew the island mostly from the boating holidays she spent with her parents, and was daunted by its oppressive soaring rocks. So a decade ago, while the two were visiting Capri for a client’s project, Peregalli suggested they take a walk to explore the poetic landscapes beyond the madding crowds in the bustling heart of town. “I was trying to convince Laura that Capri was magic, a place of sea sirens, gods, and goddesses!” he recalls. “From the sea it seems like a fortress, with its very high…

Bette Midler sings the praises of her longtime friend. MICHAEL KORS IS WHAT EVERY young designer wants to grow up to be: a gajillionaire. There, I’ve said it—but let me add that I don’t think there’s a single soul who would begrudge him a nickel of that. He made it the old-fashioned way—by working hard and using every ounce of his enormous talent, his intelligence, and his radiant good humor to lift him to the top of a business based on dreams and that most ephemeral of things: beauty. It was many, many years ago that I first encountered Michael, on the island of Capri, at the sidewalk bar in front of the Grand Hotel Quisisana. (I mean, of course it would be Capri—doesn’t it make perfect sense? Just look…

Food in Vogue is a chronicle of the fashion authority’s long-standing fascination with culinary culture, drawing together images that have appeared in Vogue from the world’s top photographers—Irving Penn, Helmut Newton, Anton Corbijn, Annie Leibovitz, and others—as well as the journalism of food writers, including James Beard Award–winning Jeffrey Steingarten. PUBLISHED BY ABRAMS abramsbooks.com Available wherever books are sold…

Consider Aerin Lauder and Johanna Ortiz’s friendship the product of a twenty-first-century phenomenon: “We met on Instagram!” says Colombian fashion designer Ortiz, while nibbling on pandebono—a fluffy bread native to her home country—at Lauder’s midtown East headquarters. Their social media connection was built on a similar aesthetic; both women share a love of ruffled cocktail frocks, flower-filled tablescapes, and what Lauder describes as a “modern, feminine approach to beauty.” This month, they’ll officially evolve their relationship from mutual followers to collaborators, thanks to a new gilded lipstick trio. “The names are so good,” Lauder says of the semi-sheer shades, “but she has to say them in her accent because they sound even better.” Ortiz laughs and obliges, properly pronouncing the guttural g in Cartagena Sunsets, a fiery tangerine; and the…

IN 1924, COCO CHANEL DESIGNED the costumes for a Ballets Russes production that featured designs by Pablo Picasso and a story by Jean Cocteau. “It is more than a frivolous work,” Cocteau said. “It is a monument to frivolity!” Such collaborations were once relatively typical; for a 1939 performance of Bacchanale, Salvador Dalí did the set design. In the years since, however, such cultural cross-pollination has become less frequent. This fall, countertenor Anthony Roth Costanzo convenes a coterie of collaborators for Glass Handel, an art installation/opera concert/ballet. In the 50-minute performance, Costanzo sings arias from Philip Glass and Handel while wearing costumes designed by Calvin Klein’s Raf Simons. Dancers choreographed by Tony-winner Justin Peck, meanwhile, flit around him, and music videos—by Italian artist Maurizio Cattelan or Daniel Askill (responsible for…

I REMEMBER THE HARDNESS OF the chair, the drone of the television in the background, and the insistent, sometimes painful tugging of my hair into neat and uniform cornrows. (“I’m tender-headed!” I begged.) I was getting my hair braided for the first time, and my parents had dropped me off at the braider’s apartment with a promise to return later. When, exactly, they couldn’t say, because trying to predict how long your braids will take is like trying to game the lottery. Since that afternoon in Montgomery, Alabama, I have sat between the legs, or under the unflappable arms, of black women in places as disparate as Brooklyn and Eritrea to have my hair braided. So it was thrilling to see the product of the intimate ritual that has long…

“I FEEL LIKE I would be annoyed by me if I weren’t me,” Chrissy Teigen says. “I feel that all the time.” It’s a late-summer afternoon, and the 32-year-old Teigen is stepping into the kitchen of the Los Angeles home she shares with her husband, the award-hoarding musician John Legend. The couple’s two-year-old daughter, Luna, is rambling around nearby; their recent arrival, Miles, is cooing in a bassinet. A bulldog named Paul cozies at my feet. The house is a knockout. It’s atop the hills and has the kind of alpha-lion view you fantasize about when you fantasize about owning a home in L.A. Rihanna used to live here; Teigen has joked about opening Rihanna’s mail. There’s a piano in the foyer with a shelf showcasing Legend’s bursting collection of…

TOC: 38: Shirt, $850; The Row, NYC. Shorts, $575; us.zimmermannwear.com. Christy Rilling Studio belt, $200; studio@christyrilling.com for information. K.Jacques slides, $310; kjacques.fr. Manicure, Kimmie Kyees. Tailor, Susie Kourinian. Cover look: 46: Dress, price upon request; Saint Laurent, NYC. Earring, $1,425; mariatash.com. Manicure, Ama Quashie. Tailor, Della George. V Life: 79: Sweater, $2,175; select Hermès stores. 90: Leather origami flowers and vase, priced upon request; select Louis Vuitton stores. 106: All CDLM clothes; Dover Street Market New York, NYC. 114: Dress ($3,200) and scarves ($390–$720); missoni.com. Cara Croninger earrings, $240; caracroninger.net. Falke socks, $28; shop. hanrousa.com. Manicure, Kim D’Amato. FASHION FUND 128–129: Top ($250), skirt ($675), hat (price upon request), and sandals ($695); 31philliplim.com. Jennifer Meyer earrings, $4,250; (310) 230-1271. Nick Fouquet belt, $310; nickfouquet.com. Proenza Schouler bag, $1,895; Proenza Schouler,…

After last season’s Archlight sneakers (tennis shoes with a Triomphe-like arch at the middle) caused a tizzy, Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière thought to fall-ify the footwear and whipped up the Archlight Flat Chelsea Boot. With a sole of rubber and a body of buttery calf leather, these slip-ons should be considered among that rare breed of fashion pieces that are at once sublime, statement-making—and supremely sensible.…