Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2018 i Vogue

OLIVIA COOKE SPEAKS WITH a thick Mancunian twang, which may come as some surprise if you’re familiar with the litany of American characters she’s portrayed on-screen. Cooke has a talent for accents—genteel British ones, she reports, are tougher than American ones—and a knack for disappearing into each role. Those run the gamut. Only 24, the actress has distinguished herself in indies and blockbusters alike, excelling at playing a particular breed of sardonic, prickly antiheroine: from the deadpan teenage cancer patient in Me and Earl and the Dying Girl to the high school Wednesday Addams type in Thoroughbreds and the disaffected outcast flailing toward love in this month’s epic, multigenerational weepy Life Itself. “I’ve always found that these roles can be incredibly two-dimensional on paper,” she observes. “I want to punch…

At 1:52 p.m. on Sunday, February 5, 2017, time and space ceased to exist. My uncle called to tell me that my father, seemingly in the clear after his second round of chemotherapy, had died. My dad’s oncologist was shocked when he heard the news. We all were. I don’t recall how I got to my brother’s later that evening, nor the details of how we traveled to my dad’s home in Florida the next day. How I managed to land a new job a few weeks later is a blur, but I do remember, just before my final interview, a future colleague reminding me to smile—as if I’d forgotten how. I followed the marching orders for my new life—head down, knees up, left, right, left—and placed my grief in…

IN EARLY AUGUST, Kate and Laura Mulleavy stood awestruck in front of a giant board filled with images of runway looks from each of their Rodarte collections over the last thirteen years. The sister-designer duo was about to lend 97 of these pieces to the National Museum of Women in the Arts in Washington, D.C., which organized its first fashion exhibition, “Rodarte,” opening on November 10. “It wasn’t just that we’d made all these clothes over the years,” Kate says. “But you could really see our different voices—and in this climate, it’s important to focus on how we value those creative voices.” We asked the sisters about three of their most noteworthy collections. Fall 2016 “A lot of our inspiration comes from growing up in California—we chose this dress because…

CELEBRITY AESTHETICIAN Melanie Simon thought she had all but perfected her signature facial—a tailored mix of microneedling and low-frequency electric currents that tightens so effectively, it commands a four-month wait list. Then she added a final step: a layer of highly active vitamin C applied post-session. Made to Simon’s exacting specifications, her Serum C features a specialized form of the plumping, brightening antioxidant (often used in lower doses, as it is notoriously difficult to stabilize). This fat-soluble version is more expensive to produce, she notes, but sinks that much more deeply into the skin. “I looked like I had been on a nice, long vacation,” actress Sarah Paulson says of the impressive glow that resulted after she absconded with a sample of Simon’s serum. When Violet Grey founder Cassandra Grey…

By the time I knock on the door of Stormy Daniels’s room at the Roger Smith Hotel, a drab brown-brick tower in east midtown, she’s been holed up in New York for 24 hours, waiting to talk to prosecutors in the criminal investigation into President Trump’s former lawyer Michael Cohen. Lately, if Daniels takes more than a couple days off from her highly publicized nation-wide strip-club tour, people assume she is at her home outside Dallas. “I’d bet by tomorrow afternoon there will be people at my house,” Daniels tells me as she settles down in the center of an oversize gray sofa. I sit across from her, on a faded upholstered armchair. Between us are a tawny Oriental rug and a table set with a pot of coffee and…

A RAINY MORNING IN PARIS in 1863. On the wet cobble-stone street, a handsome black woman in a colorful head wrap, carrying an umbrella, is looking straight out from the canvas. I’m in the studio of Elizabeth Colomba, a French-born, New York–based artist, and this is the painting she’s just finished. Slightly behind the central figure, a horse-drawn coach carries a well-dressed white man, holding a bouquet of flowers. To her left, a pink-gowned young woman and her tiny dog are about to enter a building, and in the background, a nanny and two little girls are heading for a park. The black woman’s name is Laure, and she is on her way to the studio of Édouard Manet, who is using her as the model for the maid in…

When I was a child, my sister and I played a game in which we’d take turns describing our fantasy house. Sometimes it was a rambling estate in Oxfordshire, complete with greenhouses and stables, dovecotes and roses. Sometimes it was a strawberry-pink town house in Chelsea or a modernist apartment in Highgate, with a James Bond–style swimming pool on the roof. We had no idea about property prices; we just wanted somewhere beautiful and messy, full of animals, a cluttered space in which we could be completely at home. I’m sure this fantasy, which went on for years, was triggered by our own housing situation. Our parents were divorced, and we seemed to move roughly once every three years. Twice we actually had to run away. The first time was…

“I’m based in Ireland, as you can probably tell,” says artist and sculptural furniture-maker Sasha Sykes, her every word inflected with a lilting brogue. She’s phoning from her Dublin studio, where she crafts whimsical plant- and petal-strewn works that betray her origin just as clearly—the yellow gorse flowers, wild roses, and ferns are all foraged from the foothills of the Wicklow mountains by Sykes herself. Her pieces were initially inspired by a job she held years ago designing store interiors in London, which introduced her to the aesthetics of plastics. Sykes’s new work, a room divider, fixes seaweed she fished from the Irish Sea in clear resin; it forms a shape that pays homage to modernist design pioneer (and fellow Irishwoman) Eileen Gray’s famous “brick screen,” with its stacked alternating…

When CAP Beauty opened in the West Village three years ago, the wellness boutique’s big-picture approach to healthy living was laid out on the shelves: organic face oils alongside a curated lineup of edible, single-herb adaptogens. That little-known term—used to describe a class of botanicals that can decrease the body’s sensitivity to stress, whether physical, chemical, or biological—soon went from insider jargon to ubiquitous buzzword. But even as CAP founders Cindy DiPrima Morisse and Kerrilynn Pamer began toting around their own custom-blended powders, they found the process of cocktailing different herbs (even calming ones!) to be frankly “overwhelming,” says Pamer. This month, CAP offers a streamlined solution with The O’Clocks, a new trio of adaptogenic mixes. “They’re targeted to support you throughout your entire day,” says DiPrima Morisse of the…

I WAS A SKINNY, FRECKLED kid in high school when I met Wilhelmina Cooper, in the summer of 1972. Then everything happened so quickly. Modeling was the last thing on my mind; I loved hair and makeup, but I had no idea how to pose. One of my first shoots was in the apartment of the hairdresser Maury Hopson, who is still a dear friend. Seeing how adults lived in sophisticated New York City was so exciting for me, as I essentially came from the country—this small town in Staten Island. I would wear really dark eyelashes, lots of foundation, and a heavy, smoky eye. But all the makeup artists and editors wanted to wash everything off my face, except for a little lip gloss and mascara. They saw my…

There is no songwriter more quintessentially American than Bob Dylan, and yet it seems to have taken an Irishman to translate the singer–songwriter–Nobel laureate into another all-American art form: musical theater. Conor McPherson, the Irish author of such luminously mournful plays as The Weir and The Night Alive, is bringing his take on Dylan from a sold-out run in London to New York’s Public Theater this month. McPherson’s Girl from the North Country is set in Duluth, Minnesota (Dylan’s birthplace), during the Great Depression and tells the melancholy stories of a group of hardluck losers living in a rooming house. The musical is woven together with songs from the Dylan catalog, both familiar (“Like a Rolling Stone”) and less so (“Went to See the Gypsy”), that illuminate the boarders’ lives.…

“It was like a tale of two cities,” says chef Chris Shepherd of the cataclysmic Hurricane Harvey–induced floods last August that forced thousands of evacuations from some areas of Houston but left other regions relatively unscathed. Shepherd’s restaurant, One Fifth, was lucky to avoid the worst of the storm, and so “right off the bat,” he says, “we were busy. People wanted to get away from everything.” A year later, Shepherd is on the cusp of opening the latest iteration of One Fifth, which changes culinary themes annually. This month brings a Mediterranean incarnation that will replace the venue’s previous French, Spanish, and Italian menus. This buzzed-about concept in restaurant reinvention is just one of the auspicious signs that Houston is back on its feet. Next month, the Menil Collection…

OUTSIDE, THE SUMMER SUN in Hell’s Kitchen is hanging on the scaffolds with a brightly yellowed haze. Inside, in the basement of a West Forty-ninth Street gym called TMPL, the climate is starkly different: The air is cold, and overhead, UV mood lamps cast a purple glow. Glancing up, the 23-year-old Rudrapur, India–born model Dipti Sharma smiles and says, “You know, my name means ‘light’ in Hindi.” Sharma, who lives nearby on the East Side, arrived in Manhattan just over a year ago, and she loves it. “Even if I am in a bad mood, I’ll go out and be fine,” she says. “I think it’s the adrenaline.” Since surfacing on the worldwide modeling circuit when she walked (exclusively) for Balenciaga’s spring 2018 show, she has starred in an ad…

FOR LUCAS HEDGES, ACTING is a kind of ongoing education in how to live in the world. Take his performance as a troubled and mordant young man who’s just lost his father in Kenneth Lonergan’s gorgeously melancholy 2016 film Manchester by the Sea, which Hedges calls “the most formative role of my life.” Any young actor would jump at the chance to play one of Lonergan’s flawed, complexly drawn underdogs. “Every character Kenny writes is really just trying to do the right thing, and there’s something in their lives that’s making it very hard,” he says. But Hedges also saw it as an opportunity for growth. “I had never experienced any loss in my life,” explains the 21-year-old actor, who has said that during filming he imagined what it would…

“OMNE VIVUM EX OVO,” I notify my dining companion, scooping the last of a glorious plate of scrambled eggs from under her nose. It’s a grand pronouncement (“Every living thing comes from an egg”), but I’m in the mood for one. I love eggs, and we are living in an age of ovodolatry, of oeufphilia. It’s the Eggolith! These symbols of creation have, of course, been sacred for centuries. The Greeks had their Orphic egg, the Vedas their Cosmic egg. Enlightenment-era philosopher Denis Diderot famous-ly pronounced that all the world’s theologies could be toppled by an egg! But here in America, for a tragic halflinarily pedestrian—scram-bled or fried at breakfast to bland whites. At last, something new is afoot. It is not only that eggophiles stand in line for hours…

7:58 A.M. COLLEEN ALLEN Though this designing wunderkind, 22, is focused on menswear (sumptuously minimal jackets and repurposed secondhand knits imbued with the bygone), her own wardrobe ranges from power plays to sweeping romance. On any given day, you can find Allen in confident pantsuits—or a printed dress that flirts with modesty. Calvin Klein Jeans dress. 8:03 A.M. RACHEL ROSSIN As evidenced by recent works (think warped slivers of Plexiglas printed with vibrant, naturalistic vignettes) from this painter, sculptor, coder, and VR artist, Rossin, 31, is not afraid of color: “I choose things that feel special or strange, but never at the expense of them getting in the way of making work.” Pyer Moss blazer and pants. 11:24 A.M. ZARO BATES With farms few and far between in New York…

Cover look: 62: Dress, $2,995; Neiman Marcus stores. Earrings, price upon request; anakhouri.com. Manicure, Miho Okawara. Tailor, Susie Kourinian. V Life: 104: Dress, $2,690; Balenciaga, NYC. Shoes, $750; select Miu Miu stores. 128: Made-to-order crocodile-skin mini Peekaboo bag with diamonds, price upon request; (646) 952-8399. 138: Background: Hannah Argyle/Getty Images; Povareshka/Getty Images; Tanya Morozz/Getty Images; Marjeta Sustarsic/EyeEm/Getty Images. 168: Manicure, Dominique D’Angelo. 172: Trench coat, $1,800; net-a-porter.com. Dress ($5,380) and sneakers ($645). Dress at Stella McCartney, Los Angeles. Sneakers at Elyse Walker, Pacific Palisades, CA. Marni earrings, $530; Marni boutiques. Spinelli Kilcollin ring, $3,000; spinellikilcollin.com. BOSS LADY 181: Coat, $5,320; Givenchy, NYC. 182: Dress, $4,990; Oscar de la Renta boutiques. Earrings, price upon request; anakhouri.com. 184–185: Dress, $12,550; select Chanel boutiques. Earring, $3,465; Dover Street Market New York, NYC. 186: Top,…

Model and muse to the world over—most recently to the fine-jewelry makers at John Hardy—Adwoa Aboah has now taken to designing the very baubles in which she’s photographed. After fronting a campaign for the Bali-based jewelers last fall, she’s launching her own 34-piece AAxJH collection. “I envisioned the girls that I love—my friends, mum, sisters—wearing this jewelry,” she says. The collaboration, as John Hardy creative director Hollie Bonneville Barden explains, unfurled as smoothly as one of the brand’s trademark chains (each woven by the adroit hands of Ubudian artisans using reclaimed metals and ethically sourced stones). Growing up around the corner from a crystal store, Aboah had a wealth of knowledge. “The stones are all tumbled and naturally faceted,” says Bonneville Barden. “When you hold them they give off this…

Creating one of Pelle’s intricate papier-mâché poppy sconces is an arduous process. First, Jean Pelle—one half of the design studio she runs with her husband Oliver—blends cotton linter (the same durable fiber found in banknotes) into a pulp, then she sculpts the soggy substance to petal perfection and attaches the sheets to Tetris block–shaped brass or bronze rods. “I think people were really surprised, if not shocked,” Pelle recalls of the floriated lamp’s debut at 2016’s International Contemporary Furniture Fair. “In lighting, you don’t really see a motif like this.” The collection, which began with creamy magnolias and this year features the red poppy, ranges from single-flower bedside fixtures to complex large-scale works. Tiny LED chips at the tips of curved and kinked filaments provide the illumination. “Once installed, the…